Vacationing at an Animal Sanctuary

The shrinking cost of European travel has made skiing in the Alps an increasingly appealing budget proposition. These days, for well under $1,000-sometimes for less than $700-you can get a round-trip flight and seven-night stay within a few ski lengths of Europe's best powder. You merely have to avoid peak weeks and settle for modest but comfortable three-star hotels. Why such a bargain? Europeans are hungry to get Americans back after a rough, post-September 11 winter last year. There's also a still-robust (but recently weaker) dollar, a surplus of seats on transatlantic routes in winter, and the bargain-basement price of European lift tickets (generally less than half what you'll pay in the Rockies). If you're coming from the Midwest or West, the money you'll save on lifts in Europe should make up for the extra transcontinental airfare-generally between $50 and $200-that you'll need to add to the air-and-land prices from East Coast gateways that we'll cite below. For wholly reasonable rates, you get to make your turns where skiing was invented and soak in some of the unique Alpine culture and history after the ski lifts shut down for the day. For this article, we've surveyed the largest U.S.-based tour companies that specialize in skiing in the Alps to cull the best bargains at five of the top budget resorts in Italy, Switzerland, and France. Except where otherwise noted, the prices listed in this article are per person for round-trip air from northeastern cities (primarily New York, Newark, and Boston), and seven nights at a hotel (based on double occupancy) with continental breakfast, transfers, and European service charges and taxes. Airline taxes are generally not included. Note carefully that some of the prices apply only in January and the latter half of March. Packages are subject to availability, and prices go up in February and early March, when Europeans tend to flock to the mountains. 1. Cortina, Italy Nicknamed "the Queen of the Dolomites," Cortina is a thousand-year-old village that looks far pricier than it is. Despite the chic shops peddling racy Italian fashions, Cortina is an ideal destination for families and bargain-hunting skiers. There's plenty of good terrain up among the soaring red-rock crags, with a vertical drop of up to 4,500 feet, but Cortina is generally not about gonzo skiing; nearly two thirds of its 87 miles of trails are geared for intermediates. There's also a bobsled track and a new cross-country ski center. Sharp-eyed James Bond fans will recognize the resort from scenes from For Your Eyes Only. Adventures on Skis (800/628-9655, advonskis.com) offers a package in January that includes round-trip transatlantic airfare and seven nights at the three-star Hotel Olimpia for $670 ($730 in March); the boxy lodge isn't much to look at from the outside, but it's centrally located, a short walk from the lifts, and has a sauna and Jacuzzi. A six-day ski pass at Cortina costs $150. 2. Chamonix, France What's startling about Europe is how Alpine resorts dwarf their American counterparts. France's eminent Chamonix, sprawling across the eastern foot of Mont Blanc, the highest peak in the Alps, takes in a whopping 30,000 acres, with runs that descend more than 9,200 vertical feet-nearly a two-mile drop. (By comparison, Vail, one of America's larger ski areas, offers about 5,300 skiable acres with vertical drops of 3,400 feet.) Because of its massive size, Chamonix can be all things to all skiers, from beginners to daredevils who appreciate hair-raising, off-piste challenges on untouched powder. "The beauty of such large areas is that a lot of it never gets tracked up," says Robert Eaton, the U.S. director of marketing for Ski France International . Chamonix's immensity also makes it budget friendly. Value Holidays (800/558-6850, valhol.com) is dangling the lowest price here: $689 in January and late March for round-trip transatlantic air and a seven-night stay at Hotel Croix Blanche, which makes up for its smallish rooms by being centrally located-only a few minutes' walk from the Savoy lift. Two other travel companies offer similar packages at the Croix Blanche: Holidaze Ski Tours (800/526-2827, holidaze.com) for $750 (a price that does not include transfers), and Adventures on Skis for $814. SkiEurope (800/333-5533, ski-europe.com) offers a $798 rate for the bright, airy Hotel Pointe Isabelle, which is two stars but feels nicer; almost all of its 39 rooms have balconies. Central Holidays (800/935-5000, centralh.com), meanwhile, weighs in with a $969 rate for two three-star lodgings: Hotel Les Aiglons and Hotel Le Morgane; an extra $137 buys you dinner every night at both facilities. The latter hotel is particularly pleasant, featuring a large relaxation center with a pool, Turkish bath, and sauna. A six-day ski pass is $156, though an additional $30 buys you a pass that accesses all of Mont Blanc's surrounding resorts. 3. Courmayeur, Italy Pass through the recently reopened Mont Blanc Tunnel from Chamonix and you end up in Courmayeur, another compelling Alps getaway. It's mellower than Chamonix, and quainter: old stone edifices, cobbled alleys, and shops stuffed with dried porcini mushrooms and fantastically shaped bottles of grappa flavored with the likes of raspberries, orange peels, coffee beans, and juniper. It's in Italy, and yet the restaurants reflect the close proximity to their Swiss neighbors, serving items like fondue. (Try the ubiquitous crepe stands, which sell the fresh confections for around $1.50.) The skiing is pretty impressive, too: over 7,300 feet of vertical on largely intermediate and expert terrain, much of it set alongside spectacular Alpine glaciers and pinnacles. Europe's highest cable car-modestly called the "eighth wonder of the world"-is accessible about four miles outside of town and is well worth the journey; it soars for more than a mile above Geant Glacier on its way to Chamonix. SkiEurope offers a seven-night $730 air-and-land package, January and late March, at the two-star Hotel Select, which has 17 austere rooms but is only a two-minute walk to the lifts; it's a good deal for people who are there for the slopes, not to lounge in a room. Central Holidays will pack you off to the three-star Hotel Croux for $934-a rate that includes a six-day ski-lift pass (which costs about $150 at the resort). 4. Interlaken, Switzerland Nestled between Lakes Brienz and Thun, this resort has long been known as a prime summer getaway. But Interlaken (literally, "between the lakes") has gained cachet among skiers with its affordability-there are abundant rooms because of its warm-season draw-and expansive terrain. Indeed, what pushed Interlaken over the top was the creation of the Jungfrau Top-Ski Region lift pass in 1991. Suddenly, skiers could take a mountain railway that linked Interlaken to a variety of ski areas above Grindelwald, opening a network of 100-plus miles of trails, some up to nine miles long. The rail is included in the price of a $182 pass, which makes it feasible to ski at a different resort every day for a week. For $775, SkiEurope will fly you over and put you up for seven nights in the three-star Hotel Chalet Swiss-an old-style chalet, as the name promises, centrally located and with views of three mountain ranges-and throws in a seven-day car rental instead of providing the transfers. Adventures on Skis offers the spacious three-star Hotel Chalet Oberland (where the heated indoor swimming pool is plum after a day on the slopes) for $830 throughout January and $864 from February 1-March 22. Value Holidays makes the same hotel the centerpiece of its $899 package. And Central Holidays charges $809 for the three-star Hotel Crystal, which features a roof terrace with arresting views of the surrounding landscape; it's not as central as the Oberland, but it's only a five-minute walk from the town center. Once again, please note that some of the prices we've cited apply only in January and the latter half of March; prices go up in February and early March, when Europeans head to the powder.

Many travelers (and virtually all Czechs) declare that Czech beer is the best in the world. But pub etiquette here is unique, closely followed, and not exactly intuitive. Pick wisely Look past the faux Irish pubs and casino bars for anything marked with the Czech word for pub: hospoda or pivnice. A good sign is a chalkboard listing half liters for 30 crowns or less (about $1.20); a better one is a steady stream of Czech customers. Learn some lingo Politeness and a little phrase-book Czech go a long way. Four to start with: dobry den (DOH-bree den, meaning "good day"), prosim (PRO-seem, "please"), dekuji (DJE-koo-yi, "thank you"), and zaplatit (ZAH-plah-teet, "to pay"). Be patient, and be ready When the waiter comes--it may take a while--he'll assume you want a beer. Order with your fingers, using the thumb for one, add the index finger for two, and so on. Unless you say otherwise, expect half liters of the house pilsner. When your glass is empty, most waiters will ask, "Jeste jedno?" (ESHT-yay yedno, literally "still one"--a.k.a. "Another round?"), but some will simply plop down a fresh mug. To stanch the flow, say, "Zaplatit, prosim," and the waiter will total up your bill. (A 10 percent tip is common.) Decision time Some pubs have just one pilsner on tap; others offer beer in two strengths: Ask for the lighter desitku (DEH-seet-koo, or "10 degree," about 4 percent alcohol--the same as most American beers but without the fizzy chemical aftertaste), or the stronger dvanactku (DVA-natz-koo, "12 degree," about 6 percent alcohol). When you see workmen drinking beer at 9 a.m., it's desitka. If they're staggering home at midnight, they've probably moved on to dvanactka. Keep the staff on your side Notoriously gruff waiters mark your tab on a slip of paper called a listek (LEES-tek), which stays on your table. Under no circumstances should you doodle on it, tear pieces off of it, or (God forbid) lose it before you pay. Also, although it's common to ask people at a half-occupied table if you can join them ("Je tu volno?"--"yay too VOL-no," meaning "Is it free?"), it's considered the height of rudeness to push tables and chairs around without inquiring first.

They amble into town, admire its rock-bottom costs and cultural tolerance, and settle down to live. Then, sure as the sunrise, the news of their discovery spreads to the outside world-and free-spending, mainstream tourists follow in hordes. The backpackers sigh in despair, vacate the hostels, and move on to still another undiscovered city or island. Where the backpackers go, the mainstream eventually follows. That's been proved by the general popularity of Amsterdam, Bangkok, Kathmandu, Belize, and Roatan. And it will also happen, we believe, in ten new backpacker favorites that Budget Travel profiled in 2001 (we remind you of their names in a box on the next page). Now, two years later, where are the backpackers traveling? And which of their cherished low-cost hangouts have the makings of a tourist paradise? We suggest another 12 places: Asia Lijiang, Yunnan Province, China The draw: Sumptuous mountains, peaceful, pedestrian-only cobbled streets dating back a millennium, generous hospitality from the alpine Naxi people-this laid-back town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has expats thinking they've found Shangri-La. The downside: To find it, you must venture deep into China, which isn't the easiest country for English-speakers to roam. Getting there: About $1,200 round trip from San Francisco to Kunming (via Hong Kong) on Cathay Pacific and China Southern, then a ten-hour bus ride ($18) or $60 domestic flight. Pia, Thailand The draw: It's Thailand untouched by time. This rural idyll (pronounced "pie") is graced with bamboo buildings, waterfalls, hot springs, a cliff-clinging monastery, and twilight clouds of bats billowing from the nearby Tham Lot caves system. A hut costs $1.50, less for meals of incomparable delicacy. The downside: Opium-trade wars and occasional gunplay between Thai and Burmese forces foul the peace. Getting there: Four hours by a nearly free bus from Chiang Mai, which is 12 hours by train from Bangkok, which itself is $700 round trip from the West Coast on many airlines. Australia Monkey Mia, Western Australia The draw: One of the planet's longest wild coasts also hosts our oldest living organisms (the coral-like stromatolites) and a spectacular bay (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) stacked with thousands of years' worth of shells. Not enough? Splash in the Indian Ocean with a school of friendly dolphins that have visited almost daily since the '60s. The downside: There's nowhere farther away from East Coast America. (Maybe that's a good thing.) Getting there: Perth, served by Qantas, Singapore Airlines, and others, is the nearest city, a solid day's drive south. During Australia's winter, fly round trip from Los Angeles (via Sydney, Singapore, or Kuala Lumpur) for about $1,200. Byron Bay, Queensland The draw: Nearly half a million Americans visited Australia last year, and if they were under 30, they probably headed here, an Ozzie Sodom of beer-sodden hippies, Bob Marley songs, and surfing. Add to that rain forests, yoga retreats, diving, and the chance to hear whales singing underwater. And so many hostels that it's a sleeper's market. Why haven't you heard about it? The downside: When you get old, so does its nightlife. Getting there: Round trip from the West Coast to Sydney on Qantas, $900 to $1,100, then a) a 12-hour train north ($45) or b) a cheap $50 flight north to Brisbane and one-hour bus ride south. North America Tulum, Riviera Maya, Mexico The draw: Endless oceanside lethargy, Mayan ruins on seaside cliffs, snow-white beaches, thatched bungalows for $15 a night, meals $4. Removed from Cancun's crassness but 80 miles south of its airport, it's the resort destination of tomorrow. The downside: Since few resorts have phone or e-mail, the best way to land a room is just to roll up (or try www.rivieramaya. com). Tulum itself, away from the coast, is an unappealing highway settlement. Getting there: Fleets of dirt-cheap charter flights hit Cancun from the U.S., including ones by Apple Vacations, Sun Country, and ATA. Taxis to Tulum are $55 (once you bargain), buses $10. Havana, Cuba The draw: Foreign budgeteers embrace Cuba as an authentic destination-a veritable time machine of culture, politics, and hearty food-and are spending money where money's needed on cycling trips, fishing tours, and loafing. The downside: Well, Castro gets no cigar. And the U.S. forbids citizens from spending cash there, although plenty do anyway. Getting there: We don't advise it in the current political climate, but if Americans must, they have to be sneaky and pre-buy everything internationally (Canada is popular). Consult a lawyer. The rest of the world can just fly to Havana. South America Las Lenas, Argentina The draw: From July to September (when it's winter below the equator and flights there are cheapest), skiers and snowboarders rage on jagged peaks all day, party like a peaked Jagger all night. Hostel beds go for $4.50, meals $2.25, beers 65¢. Why leave? Well, many don't. The downside: The plummeting peso threatens to spark political instability and petty crime (but so far, so good). Getting there: Fly into Mendoza ($650 round trip from Houston on a combo of airlines) and hail a six-hour bus ride. Or hit Buenos Aires ($550 on LanChile, Avianca, United) and bus 16 hours. Coroico, Bolivia The draw: This seductive mountain hamlet, stashed deep in the Yungas, has a peculiar humid microclimate that permits you to suntan, swim laps, and mountain hike in the same day. Or stroll through coca fields, brave some of the world's most intense mountain biking, and sleep for $8 per couple. The downside: In this case, "downside" is quite literal. Getting there requires nerves of titanium as you thread perilously down mountain roads along sheer drops. Getting there: Fly to La Paz ($700 round trip from Miami on American) and take the harrowing bus ride ($40) two-and-a-half hours from there. Africa Malawi The draw: A peaceful mid-African backwater with an idyllic central lake, mellow towns, and a tradition of welcoming foreigners. A terrific place to forget how to hurry and learn how to experience Africa. The downside: Infrastructure's minimal, and malaria and bilharzia are endemic. Some rural areas suffer from AIDS and famine-then again, that's why tourist dollars are needed. (Few travelers report trouble.) Getting there: Most visitors drop by when they're in Africa. Type A visitors fly to Blantyre or Lilongwe via Johannesburg (about $1,700 round trip on South African Airways from the U.S.). Zanzibar, Tanzania The draw: The name alone seems the definition of exotic, and this spice island off the east coast is a compelling tropical mix of Africa, Arabia, and India. Winding, arch-filled lanes made Stone Town another UNESCO World Heritage Site. And its political tension is now history. The downside: Past the stunning, beach-lined budget area on the northeastern shore, prices skyrocket. Many hostels burned down in a recent conflagration (but low-cost options survive: $10 per night, $6 per meal). Getting there: KLM flies via Amsterdam to Dar es Salaam (about $900), and you'll take a ferry from there for $40. Europe Dubrovnik, Croatia The draw: One of Europe's most mythic cities (once attracting ten million sunseekers a year), with the continent's finest surviving city walls stretching above the crystal-clear lip of the Mediterranean. Restored after a brutal 1991 shelling by the Serbs, lodging is $15 ($45 for luxury), meals $7, but it's not bringing the tourists back. The downside: Many wounds are still unhealed, which tempers amusement somewhat. Getting there: From New York (via Zagreb) on British Airways, $766 round trip, or $581 round trip from New York to Budapest, plus a daylong train/bus trip. Reykjavik, Iceland The draw: Geothermal mud baths, absolutely pure air, plus big-sky Northern Lights country among glaciers, geysers, waterfalls, and active volcanoes a few hours east. Everyone speaks fluent English. Nightlife rages until dawn, which in the North Atlantic can be as late as noon. It's only hours from America. And just taste that tap water! The downside: Since everything's imported, food's costly. Summer's brilliant, but winter, while not overly frigid, brings little daylight. Getting there: Icelandair frequently erupts with bargains such as $369 round-trip midweek from New York, Minneapolis, Boston, and Baltimore.

Wild and watery Amsterdam has long been a magnet for folks eager to live it up (sometimes light it up) in the town where almost anything goes. Others arrive to inhale the rich culture-to gaze at Van Goghs and Vermeers, cruise the historic canals, gorge on Gouda at the source, or-in the spring-visit the huge, yearly flower shows. And since the notoriously frugal locals just love to pinch their euros (E), food and drink bargains abound, affordable hotel rooms aren't hard to come by, and if you're game for bopping around town by bike (a very Dutch way to go), you can conquer this cool cosmopolitan village and still have change to spare. (Note: When calling Amsterdam from the U.S., first dial 011-31-20.) Also, at press time, E1 equaled about 98¢. Nice Package! Air/hotel combos are sometimes the cheapest way to get to Europe. Go-today.com (book online) regularly features round-trip airfare from many U.S. cities and three nights in a hotel from as low as $399 per person for two in winter and $499 in summer. IMTC-Pegasus (404/240-0949, imtc-travel.com) offers airfare plus three nights at a three-star hotel for $599 per person in winter and $845 for two nights from June to August. In April, typical rates from Icelandair (800/223-5500, icelandair.com) begin at $599 for two nights' hotel and airfare from several U.S. gateways. Local Intelligence Before leaving home, get briefed at 900/400-4040, 900/551-2512, holland.com/amsterdam/gb, goholland.com, or timeout.com. Once here, pick up the free What's On in Amsterdam at a VVV Tourism Information office. There's one across from Centraal Station, another in the station on Platform 2, a third in the Leidseplein square, and yet another at Schiphol Airport. Free at many shops and cafes, the pocket-size "iN 2 Amsterdam" has cool recommendations for food, drink, and fun. Available at bookstores and at the AUB ticket office at Leidseplein 26, the giveaway flier/magazine Shark has a more alternative focus (it's also online at underwateramsterdam.com). Schiphol play Getting into town from Amsterdam's well-designed airport couldn't be simpler: From the central hub of the airport's shopping plaza, trains leave every 15 minutes or less for the 15- to 20-minute ride into Centraal Station. Tickets are E2.95 ($2.90) one way, E5.22 ($5.10) round trip; you can also buy a strippenkaart here (E5.67/$5.55), good for seven rides on all public transportation in Holland's major cities. For E7.95 ($7.80), the KLM bus, open to everybody, will drop you off at one of six downtown locations near major hotels; it runs regularly from 7 a.m. till 9:30 p.m. The snoozing Dutchman Quite a few smart little hotels right in the city center offer style and comfort at bargain rates. Overlooking the Singel canal, the family-run, eight-room Hotel Brouwer (Singel 83, 624-6358, fax 520-6264, hotelbrouwer.nl; no credit cards) feels like a slice of Vermeer; doubles (all with canal views) start at E80 ($78). In downtown's Negen Straatjes area is the ten-room Hotel Belga (Hartenstraat 8, 624-9080, fax 623-6862), with fine basic doubles with bath for E77 ($75). Tucked away in the Jordaan, the Hotel Acacia (Lindengracht 251, 622-1460, fax 638-0748, hotelacacia.nl) is a friendly little sliver of a spot that also offers nice rooms on its own houseboat; breakfast-included double rates are E80 to E110 ($78-$108) on the houseboat. In the (perfectly safe!) Red Light District, the cool Hotel Winston (Warmoesstraat 129, 623-1380, fax 639-2308, winston.nl) houses a rock club and has 67 rooms, many designed by different artists; doubles start at E71 ($69). On the scenic Prinsengracht canal, doubles with private bath begin at E80 ($78) or without at E60 ($59) at the charming 11-room Hotel Prinsenhof (Prinsengracht 810, 623-1772, fax 638-3368, xs4all. nl/~prinshof). You'll find a younger, hostel-like atmosphere at the Hans Brinker Budget Hotel (Kerkstraat 136-138, 622-0687, fax 638-2060, hans-brinker.com), where bunks start at E21 ($20) and doubles at E29 ($28). An easy bike ride from the center of town, the hip Hotel Arena (s-Graves-andestraat 51, 850-2410, fax 850-2415, hotelarena.nl) has 121 rooms decorated in an airy, minimalist style, and doubles from E102 ($100); also on the premises are a cafe/bar and a live-music venue. You may also book your hotel rooms via the tourist office's Amsterdam Reservation Center (reservations@amsterdamtourist.nl) for E2.72 ($2.65). Street nibbles Amsterdam also has plenty of cheap street eats. Given the large Middle Eastern population, falafel stands are plentiful and often very good. Try one of the Maoz Falafel branches, where E2.72 ($2.65) buys freshly deep-fried balls of mashed chickpeas served in a pita with lettuce and a wide assortment of sauces and toppings (Muntplein 1, across from the Mint clock tower; Reguliersbreestraat 45, right off the Rembrandtplein; Leidsestraat 85, off Leidseplein). Patates frites (french fries, with mayonnaise or curry sauce) are popular, and the best in town are sold daily from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. at the take-out window of the Vlaamse Friethuis (Voetboogstraat 33); the small size is E1.36 ($1.30), two can share the medium for E1.70 ($1.65), and sauce is E.45 (44¢). To really go Dutch, get fresh Hollandse Nieuwe haring ("new Dutch herring") at street stands throughout the city. Two reliable vendors of this marinated delicacy, served on a roll with onion and relish for about E1.58 ($1.55), are found on the Westermarkt (beneath the Westerkerk) and on the Koningsplein (by the flower market). Basic brown One of the most traditional ways to drink and eat in Holland is at one of the city's charming, classic, candlelit bruine kroegen ("brown cafes"), whose pub grub is basic but often quite good. One of the best in town is Het Molenpad (Prinsengracht 653, 625-9680), where entrees top out at about E11.80 ($11.55). Head to locally popular Moeder's Pot (Vinkenstraat 119, 623-7643), in the Jordaan, for hearty Dutch fare with entrees from E3.85 ($3.70). De Prins (Prinsengracht 124, 624-9382) is cheery, popular, and known for good food, jovial crowds, and a canalside terrace; main courses begin at around E11 ($10.75). Finally, head to the tiny Cafe Gollem (Raamsteeg 4, 626-6645) to sample any of over 200 Dutch and Belgian beers from a couple of bucks a pop. Classic noshes Some typically Dutch edibles can be had very cheaply. You can't visit Holland and not sample its cheeses, and at the pleasantly pungent Kaaskamer (Runstraat 7, 623-3483), they'll make you a broodje (fresh baguette with cheese or meat) for about E3 ($2.95). Pannekoeken (large crepes with cheese, meat, or sweets) are a lunchtime favorite, the best of them served up near the Rijksmuseum at a spot called Le Soleil (Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 56, 622-7147), from E3 to E8 ($2.95-$7.80). The coolest noshing nook may well be the centrally located Cafe de Jaren (Nieuwe Doelenstraat 20, 625-5771), a soaring grand cafe where Amsterdam hipsters, students, and regular folk stop for snacks. Try a soup and sandwich for about E6 ($5.85). Dikes and bikes You won't be in Amsterdam for more than a minute before noticing how everyone zips around via bicycle. It's really the best option given the city's compact size, narrow streets, and flat topography. And while the famous free white bikes are gone, talks are in the works to bring them back. In the meantime you can rent your own fiets (pronounced "feets") at Frederic Rent-A-Bike (624-5509) on the leafy Brouwersgracht. Here you'll find the best value in town-just E10 ($10) a day or E40 ($39) per week. Top cheap shop Imagine a Kmart fashioned by glam hotelier Ian Schrager and you've got HEMA, the Netherlands' fabulously stylish bargain department store. The best branch in Amsterdam is located on the lower level of the Kalvertoren shopping center (Kalverstraat 212, 422-8988) and is full of inexpensive but smartly designed housewares, clothing, toiletries, and even food and wine. Examples: toothpaste E.88 (85¢), travel alarm clock Z4.50 ($4.40), cool black long-sleeve T-shirt E9 ($8.80). Concerted efforts Each week there are free lunchtime concerts at both the Muziektheater (called the "Stopera"), home to the Opera House (Waterlooplein 22, 551-8189, muziektheater.nl), and at the Concertgebouw (Museumplein, 675-4411, concertgebouw.nl), the city's classical music grand dame. Many of the city's older churches, such as the Westerkerk and the Noorderkerk, also host concerts for around E3.25 to E6.50 ($3.20-$6.53). Pick up fliers and schedules at the AUB Office at Leidseplein 26 (621-1311), where you can also buy tickets for as little as E5 ($4.90) to nearby rock venues such as the Melkweg (Lijnbaansgracht 234a, 531-8181, melkweg.nl) and the Paradiso (Weteringschans 6-8, 626-4521, paradiso.nl). Cruising the canals While there's no shortage of glass-topped canal-boat tours plying Amsterdam's waterways, the best may be the Museumboot (530-1090), with a live guide and stops at city monuments; you can climb on and off from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. year-round. An all-day ticket costs E13.50 ($13.20), which also gets you up to half off at the major museums. Board at the Anne Frank House, Centraal Station, or five other locations. From April to October, there's a canal tour conducted in English by the St. Nicolaas Boat Club on a smaller, open-air boat; you can bring along your own beer and snacks. For E9.08 ($8.90), you get historical and sometimes dishy commentary on life in this liberal town. Reserve at the Boom Chicago bar on the Leidseplein, or at 530-7306. Pass it up If you're planning to cram in many activities during a short stay, invest in the Amsterdam Pass, which for E26 ($25) for a one-day pass, E36 ($35) for a two-day pass, or E46 ($45) for a three-day pass, grants passage on all trams, buses, and the Metro; a canal-boat tour; and free entry into almost all major museums, including the Rijksmuseum, the Stedelijk Museum of Modern Art, and the cool Amsterdam Historical Museum. It also gets you a few free snacks and discounts on many other attractions and meals. Buy it at the main Amsterdam Tourist Office (VVV) in front of Centraal Station, or at branch offices on the Leidseplein and at the airport. If you're under 26, get unlimited admission to many museums and discounts for other events with the Cultural Youth Pass, E11 ($10.75) at the Amsterdams Uit Buro (AUB) office at Leidseplein 26 (621-1311). Walk this way Another cheap and interesting way to explore the city is through Mee in Mokum, a nonprofit group of lifelong Amsterdammers who guide walking tours through the city center, telling their own stories as well as pertinent local facts. A two-hour stroll through the Jordaan, the city center, or other itineraries costs just E1.82 ($1.80); reserve at 625-1390. Tours are hosted year-round, but call ahead to book an English-speaking guide. Brew review At the Heineken Brewery (Stadhouderskade 78, 523-9666), daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. except Monday, "The Heineken Experience" leads you through the beer-making experience (you even get to ride along like a bottle waiting to be capped!). Though no longer free, it's still a great deal for E5 ($4.90), especially considering all the suds you get to swill at the end. Park it here The Vondelpark, a sprawling green expanse right off the city center, is where all of young Amsterdam comes to sunbathe, rollerblade, and be seen. Stop at one of the many local Albert Heijn supermarkets and put together an impromptu picnic. Rent in-line skates at the Rent-A-Skate (Vondelpark 7, 664-5091; E5/$4.90 per hour, all day for E15/$14.70) inside the park's southwest entrance by the Amstelveensweg, catch a free concert or performance at the park's open-air theater during the summer, and visit the llamas in their own grassy pasture. Pause for tea (E1.36/$1.30) and a snack at the popular Blauwe Theehuis (Vondelpark 5, 662-0254) or perch on the patio of the Cafe Vertigo (attached to the Filmmuseum) and mingle with Amsterdam's attractive set. Artful maneuvers In the town that spawned Rembrandt and inspired Van Gogh, there's a thriving gallery scene, and on Saturdays, several host show openings with free wine and/or beer. Many of Amsterdam's best contemporary galleries-the Torch Gallery, De Praktijk, AYACS, and the Huis Marseille-are located in or near the Jordaan neighborhood. For a listing of openings, pick up the bimonthly flier Exhibitions Amsterdam Tentoonstelling Agenda at any gallery, or at the very useful AUB Ticket Office at Leidseplein 26 (621-1211). Or check online at akka.nl/agenda. Market economy A couple of famous flea markets are worth a visit. The best known is on the Waterlooplein (9 a.m.-5 p.m. daily except Sunday), where you can pick up bargains on military gear, clothing, kooky memorabilia, and all manner of tchotchkes. For more everyday purchases (from fresh fish to jogging suits to CDs), you can try your luck at the Albert Cuyp Markt, on the Albert Cuyp Straat (9:30 a.m.-5 p.m. daily except Sunday) in the De Pijp neighborhood, south of the city center. Those into antiques, linens, and vintage clothing would do well to riffle through the stalls on Monday morning at the Noordermarkt. If organic food is your thing, ogle the tasty wares of Holland's farmers Saturday mornings (9 a.m.-3 p.m.) at the Boerenmarkt on the Noordermarkt. For used books, don't miss the cool Boekenmarkt, every Friday on the Spui square, with lots of English-language and arty titles. Finally, if you're lucky enough to be here on April 30, the entire city turns into a bustling, partying flea market to celebrate Queen Beatrix's birthday. Thank God it's Sunday One of the coolest nights to be out and about is Sunday, when you can do the town without paying through the nose. The very popular Club Vegas convenes every Sunday at the Club Winston, and if you dress "Vegas glam" you can get in for a mere E2.27 ($2.20), E4.53 ($4.40) if you're a frump. Out on the southwest edge of the city, in the recently restored Olympic Stadium, is Vakzuid, a hip restaurant that also hosts a cool Sunday-afternoon club called "The Couch," where you can lounge, drink, and groove to live DJs for no cover. This is also the night to join the festive fray of gay and straight students and hipsters at De Trut (Bilderdijkstraat 165, 612-3524), with cover E1.50 ($1.45) and beers E.91 (90¢); doors open at 11 p.m.-get there early. Collegiate types can dance for next to nothing any night of the week at Dansen bij Jansen (Handboogstraat 11, 620-1779), a disco for students only (bring I.D.), where cover costs range from E1.50 to E3.50 ($1.45-$3.45) depending on the event and the night. Virtual Amsterdam Keep in touch cheaply at Europe's biggest Internet cafe, the 24-hour easyEverything at Reguliersbreestraat 22 by the landmark Tuschinski cinema. For E2.27 ($2.20), you get an hour's worth of e-mail and Internet (there's a smaller branch at Damrak 33, near Centraal Station). But De Waag cafe (Nieuwmarkt, 422-7772) offers free Internet access and lots more character, housed as it is in Amsterdam's castlelike fifteenth-century former gatehouse. Counting your Euros To get your hands on some local currency, using ATMs is convenient, but rather than get socked with charges from your bank back home, stop instead at the GWK office (627-2731) at Centraal Station, where you'll get the best rate in town. It also offers hotel booking, traveler's- check cashing, and phone cards.