Austin: Still Weird After All These Years

European travel has changed more in the past seven years than it did in all the decades after World War II. Eurail passes and traveler's checks are no longer your best friends when no-frills airlines can fly you pretty much anywhere out of London for less than $60, more focused railpasses allow you to customize your trip and pay less, and a visit to an ATM machine is quicker and cheaper than using cumbersome travelers checks. Experienced travelers are getting tired of the Great Capitals and pricey hotels heading instead for the smaller regions to rent a villa or stay on a working farm in Tuscany, the Dordogne, Andalusia, or western Ireland. To lure us back to the cities, destinations like Paris, London, Rome, and Madrid are modernizing their museums and offering passes for free transportation and discounted sightseeing. With the current troubles plunging transatlantic airfares to historic lows--roundtrip airfares from the East Coast are currently as low as $178--this brave new Europe is just begging to be explored. And with the recent slew of more liberal trip cancellation policies put in place by airlines and tour companies faced with war-wary travelers, your reservations are ironically more secure and flexible than ever before--though that varies, and I'll take questions on insurance and cancellation policies as well. But mostly, I look forward to answering questions on travel in Europe and sharing some hard-won secrets and strategies to help you navigate the new European travel scene. Reid will be answered your questions Tuesday, June 8, at noon EST. Reid Bramblett holds the somewhat dubious distinction of having authored both The Complete Idiot's Travel Guide to Europe and Europe for Dummies. His love affair with Europe began at age 11 when his family moved to Rome and proceeded to spend much of the next two years exploring Europe in a hippie-orange VW campervan. Reid experienced a budget continent of campgrounds and picnics with the locals, though mostly he remembers having to sleep in the VW's moldy pop-top. After a brief stint as an editorial assistant at a travel publisher, began writing European guidebooks for Frommer's, Dorling Kindersley's Eyewitness, Idiot's, and For Dummies. He joined the Budget Travel editorial staff in 2002. He champions such underdog Irish causes as real ales, traditional Celtic music, Irish cheeses, hurling (that's a Gaelic sport, not what happens after too many whiskeys), pub grub, and tramping around bogs and wind-bitten downs in search of ancient tombs. _______________________ Reid Bramblett: Here I am--a bit late, sorry. Let the questions begin! _______________________ Milwaukee, WI: Will there be any Olympics events in Torino, Italy this year? Reid Bramblett: Nope. The Turin Winter Olympics will take place in February of 2006. The official Website is torino2006.org/. _______________________ New York, NY: Got your June issue. Great stuff! The maps for no-frills airlines were incredibly useful, but only covered flights from London and a few other major cities, and my summer plans don't happen to include London. How can I research other no-frills airlines all across Europe? Reid Bramblett: Frustratingly, there aren't many one-stop-shopping resources that survey the entire, ever-changing field of no-frills airlines in Europe. That's why, as it says in the article, I created nofrillsair.com/, which at least links directly to all the current ones flying (and lists their major hubs and destinations) and explains the pluses and minuses to using them, as well as linking to a few sites that offer fare-searches of selected no-frills. For those of you who haven't yet heard of this revolution in European travel, more than 40 of these no-frills airlines---ow-cost carriers like southwest or jetBlue here at home---ave popped up in Europe over the past decade to make criss-crossing the continent cheaper and faster than the train. One-way tickets average $45 or so, including taxes, and rarely top $100, unless you buy last-minute. (In the interests of full disclosure: hofrillsair.com/ is not affiliated with MSNBC.com or Budget Travel magazine; it's just something I did in my spare time.) _______________________ Frankfort, KY: Am thinking of a fly, drive and B&B trip to Ireland. Is this advisable for a first timer or should I look at escorted tours? Do you have recommendations for such trips on the Isle? Thanks. Reid Bramblett: Forget the tour. That Irish fly-drive-B&B package is one of the best deals in travel anywhere in the world. I've done it myself, and it works a dream: you get roundtrip airfare, a rental car for seven days, and vouchers for six nights in countryside B&Bs--you pick them yourself form a catalogue of hundreds all across the country, including Northern Ireland. And prices start as low as $499 in winter (I thin they're $599 right now; and in years past have dipped to a flabbergasting $399). Course that's out of NYC, but you can get cheap fares from other East Coast gateways (though I don't think there are direct flights to Ireland from Frankfort, KY yet :) You can arrange this packages through the travel section of hreland.com/ or from hietours.com/. _______________________ Fountain Valley, CA: Reid, my husband and I are traveling to Southend-on-Sea, England, in August where his family is located. We will be in Great Britain for a month. We would like to visit Ireland and want to know what is the least expensive way to go about it. We are open to suggestions (fly, drive, coach, etc.). I'd like to check out my family backgroud in Tipperary & maybe sight see the West of Ireland. Any suggestions? Reid Bramblett: Great chance to use those no-frills airlines I was just talking about. Since Southend-on-Sea is just outside London, when you're ready to nip over to Ireland, make your way back into the big city and catch a Ryanair flight (ryanair.ie/) from Stansted Airport into Kerry, Ireland (which is on the west coast, and not at all a long way to Tipperary...get it?). I just looked up the going rate for that flight in August, and it's a mere $32, including all taxes. (See? Aren't no-frills airlines great?) Once you're there, rent a car to get around (Ireland is a countryside well worth exploring by car, even if you do have to drive on the left). In addition to shopping the rates at the hertz and Avis and such, make sure you check out the car rental consolidator hutoeurope.com/, which usually beats their rates, as well as Ireland's home-grown alternative Dan Dooley (handooley.com/). _______________________ Kelowna, British Columbia: Hi Reid, a few years ago we rented a car and traveled all over Spain for a month. How realistic is it to rent a car in, say Copenhagen, and then travel to multiple countries for 6-8 weeks? Would it have to be returned to Copenhagen or could it be dropped off in another country? Thanks for your help. Reid Bramblett: Course it's possible! Dropping a rental car off in other countries, of course, incurs a fee--in general, the further away from home you strand your noble rented steed, the higher the drop-off fee. However, if you're going for 6-8 weeks, forget the rental. What you want is a short-term lease. You get: A brand-new car direct from the factory (seriously; sometimes those bits of protective plastic wrap are still clinging to the side mirrors) FULL insurance automatically (none of that messy mucking about with CDW or TP or LDW or any other acronym the rental companies throw at you to pump up the cost) A far, far, far, cheaper rate than on a rental for a similar period of time (actually, you're buying the car under an automatic buy-back agreement with the company, so you get excellent terms) That new-car smell _______________________ Las Vegas, NV: What is your best budget suggestion regarding lodging for two adults traveling with two children in Europe? We usually find that we exceed the "fire code" maximum of three occupants per room and are relegated to two rooms or one very expensive "family room." Any suggestions? Reid Bramblett: You're a bit out of luck. In Europe, it's nothing to do with fire codes; it's all about the head count. While in the US you are free to cram as many people into your room as you can safely sneak past the front desk--since you're paying a single rate per room--in Europe you always pay per occupant. That means if you have two people in that room you pay for two, if you squeeze in four on cots and whatnot, you pay for four. (The usual mark-up is that each additional body in the room cost an additional 30 to 35 percent on top of the regular double room rate.) Frustrating. About the only concession is that many hotels will give traveling families a break and charge less for the little-uns than for an adult---hough how much less is all down to the hotel's own policy and the kid's ages. really young kids can sometimes get in free (though a nominal crib charge is usually incurred), or those under a certain age (usually pegged somewhere between 11 and 15) can stay in the parents room for a discounted additional rate---ay 10 to 20 percent, rather than that 30 to 35 percent. _______________________ Stamford, CT: My husband and I would like to take a tour to Italy this October and see Rome, Venice and Florence. I would like to book a tour online but I'm not really aware of which online travel agencies are reputable. I've seen two websites, Travelwizard and Vacations to Go. What can you tell me about these and do you have any other suggestions?! Reid Bramblett: First of all, you really don't need a tour in Italy. It's very easy to get around--especially between those three major cities--and English is widely spoken, so there's little need to tie your vacation to a tour bus and be shunted around at the whims of a guide getting the same canned commentary they've been dishing out for 50 years. That said, a few of the best tour operators out there---nes that, hopefully, will give you a bit more interesting of a tour---re Donna Franca (honnafranca.com/) and the Italiatour branch of Alitalia Airlines (htaliatour.com/). Intrepid Travel (hntrepidtravel.com/) now covers Europe with its innovative tours designed to get very small groups (8-12 people) up close to the culture of the destination. If you are willing to try going it alone as I suggested, but still want a bit or structure or help getting the cut rates on hotel and airfare a tour would get you, try a vacation packager (which books you your airfare and hotels, but leaves the daily schedule up to you to fill). The best values are with ht-today.com/ and htrovacations.com/. _______________________ St Agatha, Ontario: We will be going to Athens in August for the Olympics. Should we wait until mid-July to book accomodations when all the tour operators will dump their blocks of rooms and pricing will be much lower? Reid Bramblett: Each Olympics affects its destination differently, so there's no way to predict, but my gut reaction is: you haven't already booked??? Do it now! You're gambling on not as many people showing up as the local infrastructure expects, which very well may work out--or you may end up paying a premium to stay a two-hour train ride form the city. Take the safe route on this one. _______________________ San Clemente, CA: Is it possible to rent a small RV in Europe to travel from one country to another? Are there books about camping in Europe with an RV? Reid Bramblett: A pop-top VW campervan (sleeps two below, one or two smaller chaps up in the pop-top tent) rents for around $50 to $65 per day in winter, which rises to $100 to $130 in the height of summer. A larger, more familiar "RV" sleeping four to five people will run you around $60 to $100 in low season, $110 to $180 in high season. European roads are narrow and winding, and gas incredibly expensive, so never rent anything longer than six meters (about 20 feet). Also, read the fine print: there's usually a ridiculous "service fee" of $100 to $175 or so added to the overall price, and they usually require CDW insurance (another $30 per day or so). Make sure taxes (VAT) are included in the quote, sauce they can run as high as 19 percent! Rentals in Germany tend to be the cheapest, though you can drive it anywhere (check first about any Eastern European countries, and British rentals often tack on a fee for taking it to the continent). I've got loads more on this subject at htyondhotels.net/. For good rates, look at htropeanrvtours.com/ and httinc.com/. _______________________ Warren, NJ: We will be visiting Florence, Italy for one day on July 6, 2004. Could you please advise me how to purchase tickets in advance prior to departure from the U.S. for the Pitti Palace and the Uffizzi in order to avoid long lines at these museums? Thank you. Reid Bramblett: Definitely book ahead; that time of year, the line for the Uffizi can last two hours or more--no foolin'. You can book both the Uffizi and the Pitti (and the Accademia, which houses Michelangelo's David--anther long line) at firenzemusei.it/ or by calling 011-30-055-294-883. It's more than worth the 1.55 euro fee. _______________________ Anonymous: What is the best time of day generally to get a good meal at a reasonable price and what inexpensive wines are looking good for having with a meal in France? Reid Bramblett: Sorry for the delay there. Computer problems. In answer to your question: Lunch. Bistros, brasseries, and cheap restaurants will offer inexpensive prix-fixees (set-price) menus. Even the holy temples of cuisine like Alain Ducasse will be far, far cheaper at lunch than at dinner (you'll fork over $260, sure, but in relative terms that beats the pants off the $600 price tag at dinner). _______________________ Kent, OH: My friends and I are trying to plan a week-long trip to Europe, specifically to Paris. Since we're all college students, money is tight. We know that we can stay in hostels, but what are some other easy ways for us to save a little cash and still have a great time? Reid Bramblett: Get the cards. The Carte Musees et Monuments (hntermusses.com/---hough that site can be buggy), gets you into 70 of Paris's top sights, museums, and monuments. (Only notable exceptions: the Eiffel Tower, Montparnasse Tower, and Marmottan Museum.) Even if you use it only to visit the Louvre and the Pompidou, you've already saved $3 off individual admission charges. Plus, it allows you to skip all the long admission lines and just waltz right in, flashing the card to a security guard. The other card is for getting around cheaply on the Metro, but it's a bit tricky, since Paris doesn't want you to know it exists. The tourism officials flog the Paris Visite card relentless to tourists, but that's astoundingly overpriced. They won't even tell you that there's such as thing as the "Carte Orange" (it doesn't even appear in the English-language version of the official transport website), which is a weekly metro pass that costs 14.50 Euros and covers the central transport zones 1 and 2-p--enty for most Parisian trips, though if you plan to travel to the outskirts of town a lot, you might plump 19.40 Euro for one good through zone 3. You can buy it at any Metro station-j--st don't let them try and sell you that Paris Visite! _______________________ Chicago, IL: Hi Reid, I will be studying abroad in France, Belgium and England in July. I need to find my own way from Brussels to Oxford, England. What is the most economical and scenic route? I am considering ferries -- what do you think? Reid Bramblett: The ferry will be scenic, but it's gonna take you a minimum of 12 to 14 hours total (train from Brussels to Oostende; ferry across the Channel; train to London; change train stations London; train to Oxford; often long waits in between each step). Sure, it'll be scenic, but time-consuming and not all that cheap. Your other option is the Eurostar through the Chunnel (hurostar.com/ or haileurope.com/)--you'll be dumped in London and still have to get to Oxford, but at least the Brussels-to-London bit is a lickety-split 2 hours 40 minutes, and costs $100 to $150 (depends on what kind of fare you qualify for). Less scenic, but it does leave you far, far more time to enjoy the scenery on either end of your trip! _______________________ Los Angeles, CA: Your article on renting a villa has me seriously considering it! I'm used to package vacations to Europe though - is it possible to do a package including a villa rental and airfare or will I have to book everything separately? Reid Bramblett: Congrats! You should have a blast. though some third-party agencies who handle villa rentals can also arrange your airfare (or will work with a travel agent on your behalf to book it), in my experience they simply can't beat the prices you could get doing 20 minutes of research online yourself. Hit the major airline sites (not just the US ones, but the major European ones as well, like Virgin Atlantic, British Airways, Lufthansa, Air France, etc), run your travel dates through Expedia, Orbitz, and Travelocity Then, armed with this "top price," really get down to business. Read out daily Savings Sleuth blog to find airfare sales. Check out the rates using met search engines like hheapflights.com/, hidestep.com/ (a browser plug-in; only works on PCs) and hixo.com/. Contact a consolidator like h800flyeurope.com/ ---they can usually sell you a ticket on the same airline for less than the airline can! There re some other tricks; my site hraveltools.net/ will walk you through the 11 Steps to Finding Cheaper Airfares. Happy hunting! _______________________ Denver, CO: I know that it's always cheaper to travel off-season, but if I really must go to Italy during the peak season (June 2005) because of a family wedding, when is the best time to shop for deals? Very early or last minute? Any suggestions? Reid Bramblett: When in June is an issue, because High Season rates for airfares usually kick in officially on June 15 (high season hotel rates, sadly, kick in soon after Easter!), so if you can fly out before then, you can save a couple hundred dollars right there. Don't ever buy more than three months out. Before then, airlines are only charging Hail Mary rates---he highest ones possible in the hopes that someone will bite. Between three months out and six weeks out, the price will get whittled down by the marketplace, consolidators will start releasing batches of tickets at cut rates, and sales will crop up as empty seats start needing to get filled. See my last answer for some airfare hunting techniques. Have a great time, and my congrats to the happy couple. _______________________ Reid Bramblett: Well, that's it! An hour's up. There were dozens and dozens of questions I couldn't get to, and to you folks: I apologize. But we do this "live chat" thing every week on different destinations, so tune in again and we'll do our best to help you plan the vacation of a lifetime. _______________________

Today's gas crisis looks nothing like that of the 1970's, when inflation was a dirty word and pump lines stretched for blocks. The "I" word is hardly used (thanks to low interest rates), and gas stations are eerily vacant, with many avoiding stops at the pump for fear of emptying bank accounts. On Tuesday gas prices hit a 13-year high of $1.84/gallon. But, that's not the end of the bad news. Industry analysts say the cost could rise to as high as $3/gallon in the coming months, a time of year when half of America's households hit the road. How this dire situation will affect summer road trippers remains to be seen, but there are ways to enjoy a car trip and still manage to save. Turn to the web Once again, the Internet proves to be a great resource for budget-conscious travelers. GasPriceWatch.com, a consumer advocacy website that tells you where you'll find the best gas bargains. You just plug in the zip code of where you're headed and you get a search results page with stations and their locations and current gas prices. As of today, the most expensive gas per gallon in the country can be found in Bridgeport, CA ($2.69/gallon), and the least expensive in Clifton, NJ ($1.58/gallon). How does GasPriceWatch.com keep track of all these fluctuating numbers? They use a team of volunteer "spotters" who call in rates on a regular basis. Of course, this also works in your home town. Gaswars.com does the same thing, but also covers gas prices in other countries. Gasbuddy.com is another helpful site which provides links to local sites that track gas. Check all three and see which works best for your proposed route. If you want to figure out before you go just how much you'll spend on gas (perhaps to balance out how much you want to spend on lodging), AAA has a useful site called Fuel Cost Calculator which will estimate for you the fuel costs of a particular trip. You input your starting and ending destinations plus the type of car you have and it calculates how many gallons of fuel you'll need and how much they'll cost. While it doesn't clue you in on where to find the cheaper gas, like the sites above do, it is helpful for figuring out your budget in advance. Rules of the Road Whether you plan to rent a car or will be using your own set of wheels, there are some handy dandy tricks for maximizing fuel efficiency on the road:   Pack light--heavier cars drag, and use more fuel   Avoid high speeds--use the 55 Stay Alive rule for safety and gas efficiency   Use cruise control--stable speeds mean less gas used   Avoid jackrabbit starts and stops--they tend to gobble up gas   Use over-drive gears--they'll slow you down and you'll use less gas   Keep tires full--softer tires are harder on the car, and drive-up gas use "It's good to get minor tune-ups, where you check your car's belts and hoses, every 30,000 miles and a major tune-up every 60,000 miles," says David Kelly, a mechanic at Ron's Auto Repair in Jamaica Plain, MA. Another way to save on the inevitable wear and tear on your car is to stick, if possible, to well-maintained roads and car-only lanes. That may be hard to do as Congress' $275 billion highway bill, which mandates much needed improvements on our nation's most trafficked arteries, is still caught in legislative limbo. So, finding perfectly smooth roads may be a challenge. We suggest asking locals before you head out. And the big issue, of course, what to fill your tank with. "The best thing to do to save money on the road is to use "regular" gas. "Super" doesn't actually make your car run better, unless you're driving a Ferrari, in which case you probably won't be worried about the high price of gas," says Kelly. Little things add up on road trips Shopping at local grocery stores and packing your meals is a good way to save money (and time) when you consider the inflated fast-food prices at highway rest stops. Or, if you have to stop for a bite mid-drive, truck plazas are sure bets for decently priced meals. Many also offer cheap Internet access, if you can't live without checking your email. For a list of more authentic, and often inexpensive local restaurants, surf over to Roadfood, a highly useful site detailing local eats around the country. The early bird catches the discount Planning ahead and making reservations may be your best strategy for avoiding inflated summer rates on two important elements of your trip: hotels and (possibly) car rentals. Many spring rates are still in effect right now for bookings through summer, but prices are expected to rise this year as we get closer to summer. Analysts are predicting a very busy summer travel season and, as with all things in travel, prices are tied to availability. "If you wait until June, you may have a hard time getting a minivan or SUV," warns Ted Deutsch, a spokesman for the Cendant Car Rental Group, which owns Budget and Avis, agencies that just increased its prices by $5 for summer rentals beginning Jul. 1. This rate increase will bring prices back up to where they were last summer, and is part of the "seasonal cycle," says Deutsch. (While Avis' and Budget's rates will remain lower through June, a similar rate hike last summer had a domino effect with competitors, with everyone hopping on the increase bandwagon.) Good planning also comes in the form of knowing where you're going, what you're doing, and doing your best at mapping out routes ahead of time. With a little advance research, you can find not only the fastest and most direct routes to your destination, but today's mapping software and resources can actually clue you in to where to expect, and avoid, construction delays. As the old expression goes, time is money, and who wants to sit in a hot car for hours? Also, setting out at off-peak times--i.e. no Friday afternoon departures, you're guaranteed to make better time. The upshot is that you'll spend less time in your time in the car, and actually enjoying your hard-earned vacation. "Alternative" ways to save It's true that the vast majority of Americans own their own cars, and that car rental agencies see most of their activity at their airport counters. But if you are planning to rent, it makes sense to consider renting a hybrid vehicle. While most major car rental agencies have yet to get on board the hybrid train and fill their lots with super-efficient Toyota Priuses (that get 50 miles to the gallon/600 to the tank), there are a few companies, like EV, the country's only environmental rental car company, that are making in-roads in weening the nation of its dependency on oil. EV, which only offers electric, natural gas or hybrid vehicles for rent, operates mainly in California but is branching out rapidly. EV average daily rental is $35, so what you might spend at EV, you most certainly save on gas. To rent with EV, call: 877-EV-RENTAL. Flying vs. driving With gas prices sky-rocketing, will it be cheaper to skip the road and simply fly to your destination this summer? In most cases, the answer is no. We picked a sample roundtrip going from New York City to West Palm Beach, FL and back (2,460 miles in all), and priced both the airfares and the fueling up costs. For mid-July, the lowest round-trip fare we could find $205 on AirTran. OK, not bad. When we looked at gas prices alone, the equation got very interesting. We discovered it would cost approximately $185 in gas assuming the average car on the roads gets about 24 miles to the gallon, with fuel at its current average of $1.84. So, if two people were sharing the trip, they'd save about $225. The difference is far less in a gas-guzzling SUV, of course, or for solo travelers. And the equation gets even more skewed when we consider cross-country travel. Thanks to a raft of near-continuous sales, it's become commonplace to fly coast to coast for approximately $200 plus tax. On such routes, flying clearly beats driving. But for the quintessential family road trip, driving remains the money saver. And hopefully with the tips in this article, you'll still be able to make that classic family vacation this year.

It's a piece of cake," said Grand Canyon National Park Ranger Pam Cox. Her face a giant smile, she was making a gung-ho try at bolstering our courage for the rigorous 9.6-mile hike we faced the next morning. Having descended to famed Phantom Ranch at the very bottom of the Arizona canyon the day before - the first leg of a three-day, five-star adventure on a tightwad's budget - we now had to climb back out again. The South Rim, our goal, towered high above. Way way above. Maybe for her it's no big deal, I thought. She's done it dozens of times. But what about all of us first-timers? Entering the canyon, we had taken the shorter (7.2-mile) but much steeper South Kaibab Trail, and my upper thighs still screamed in pain from the experience. Outbound, we planned to climb Bright Angel Trail, more than two miles longer but reputedly less demanding. Still, I was more than a little worried about whether my legs and lungs were up to the task, and I suspect so were many other hikers gathered for Cox's after-dinner chat under the stars. In the quiet, we could hear the mighty Colorado River spilling over the rapids just down the path. Obviously I made it to the top, or I wouldn't have written this story. And, no, it wasn't really a piece of cake; Cox (as we all suspected) had exaggerated. Though the trail begins with an easy and spectacularly scenic mile-long hike along the Colorado, the real ascent turned out to be a slow, sweaty, 6 1/2-hour slog (with half a dozen time-outs to recoup our strength). But despite causing aching muscles, the climb also proved to be an ego-boosting climax to an adventure of a lifetime, played out to one of the most beautiful backdrops in America. The descent to Phantom Ranch (or to Bright Angel campground) For anyone who relishes outdoor challenges, no self-guided adventure anywhere rates as more rewarding - or cheaper-than a rim-to-river (and back) hike in the Grand Canyon. Just think how many friends you can amaze by telling them: "I hiked to the bottom of the Grand Canyon." In her pep talk, Cox pointed out that five million people visit the Grand Canyon annually. But fewer than one percent ever get to the bottom, a mile below the rim, where the views - up close and intimate - appear even more awesome. This near wilderness can be reached only by raft, mule, or afoot. Raft and mule trips (I've done both) cost hundreds of dollars; hiking sets you back next to nothing. Better yet, going on foot turned out to be more satisfying because I did it on my own power. We hikers sort of turn up our noses at the mule-back softies. From the moment I stepped over the rim, the South Kaibab Trail treated me to nonstop views of multicolored rocks in fantastical shapes: soaring pinnacles, flat-topped buttes, sawtooth ridges, and sheer cliff walls. Though no geologist, even I could spot the dramatic change in rock formations as I descended deeper into the chasm. Far below, the racing Colorado, a vivid green, marked the day's goal. Though distracted by grand vistas, I watched where I walked. The trail clings to the edge of precipitous drop-offs as it zigzags in countless switchbacks down the face of a canyon wall. A stumble could be disastrous. Part of the fun of this trip is staying at Phantom Ranch, an oasis in the arid canyon depths. A historic national park lodge built in the 1920s, it stands in a shady cottonwood grove alongside Bright Angel Creek, a tumbling Colorado tributary. With Jack Hawes, an old college buddy from California, I planned two nights there, giving us a day to relax between the hike in and out. So how did we relax? We hiked the gentle trail that winds through the narrow, steep-walled gorge traced by Bright Angel Creek. At age 65, we both keep fit - I run five miles almost daily; he's a demon on an exercise bicycle - but we weren't taking chances. Canyon costs The hike itself costs nothing, and guidance and commentary from the National Park Rangers is of course similarly free. This, combined with the cheap rates at Phantom Ranch, makes this adventure affordable for almost anyone in decent shape. A friendly, low-key retreat, the lodge accommodates a maximum of 88 people-either in small stone-and-log cabins (48 guests) or in four ten-bunk dormitories (40 guests) - two dorms each for males and females. The cabins rent for $71 a night for two people, not a bad price considering their unique setting. But folks on the mule trips get most of them. The dorms, where we stowed our packs, are reserved for hikers. The $25.50-per-person rate includes bed linens and a towel. Each dorm boasts a hot shower, sink, and toilet. Not cheap enough? If you're willing to rough it, Bright Angel Campground (928/638-7875), adjacent to the ranch, caters to serious hikers able to tote tent, sleeping bag, food, and cooking gear. That's in addition to drinking water, energy bars and other trail snacks, toiletries, and extra clothing we dorm-bound hikers carried. The campground offers 33 sites, available to a maximum of 90 campers a night. The cost is $5 per person a night, plus a $10 permit for each site. To save money, pack food. We took the easier option and ate the ranch's group meals dished up at tables for 12. The dinner menu is limited to the same two choices. The steak dinner, served nightly at 5 p.m., is $27.75 per person; mule trippers get first choice. We tucked into the hiker's hearty stew, served at 6:30 p.m. and priced at a more modest $17.25, including green salad, corn bread, and chocolate cake. A breakfast of sausage, eggs, and pancakes is $14.50, and a bag lunch, full of high-energy snacks, $7.50. At the above prices for room and board, our two-night, three-day adventure totaled just $118 per person, not including modest taxes and a $3 Tecate beer at dinner. Entertainment was Cox's informative wildlife talks. One night, she described efforts to preserve the park's bat population; the next, we learned about the apparently successful effort to re-introduce California condors. On the trail Prehistoric peoples began carving the gentler Bright Angel Trail into the canyon walls. In the early 1900s, an entrepreneur claimed rights to it, charging a fee for its use. The National Park Service, ultimately successful in disputing the claim, built the South Kaibab Trail in 1925 to provide free public access into the canyon. Much of the route had to be blasted out of solid rock. On a sunny November morning, the temperature at the South Rim trail head (elevation 7,000 feet) was an invigorating 59 degrees F. Both of us wore shorts, light shirt, and wide-brimmed hat; jackets (in case of snow) stayed in our packs. In switchbacks below, we could see the early birds ahead of us. Soon enough, I realized the Kaibab was going to be a test. Full of rocks and staircase steep, it forced us to pick our way slowly. As we dropped steadily, the temperature grew warmer. Ahead, Phantom Ranch at 2,400 feet promised a balmy 77 degrees. Summer is the busiest hiking season, but Phantom temperatures can reach a scorching 110°, and heat exhaustion is a danger on the trail. Hiking weather is best in spring and fall. In winter, snow and ice are always possible at upper elevations. We carried strap-on cleats for our boots in case a surprise November storm hit. Fifty minutes into our descent, we encountered a mule train packing out some of Phantom's previous night's guests. Joked one young woman, "Next time, I'm hiking with you." In two hours, we caught our first distant glimpse of the Colorado. Near here, the trail edges briefly across a slender ridge, presenting dizzying drop-offs on either side. After four hours we reached the Colorado, crossing over a high suspension bridge to the ranch. Three rafts, docked briefly at Phantom's sandy beach, pushed off into the rapids and disappeared around a bend. At the Phantom's canteen, we downed a glass of cold lemonade, dropped packs in the bunkhouse and headed for the river to soak hot, tired feet. Already the setting sun cast curious shadows on the rock walls. As I watched, I reveled in our feat. We'd made it to the bottom of the Grand Canyon, weary but bedazzled by the views. Later, I'd worry about climbing back out. Now I was content. Getting ready Phoenix, the closest major airport to the Grand Canyon, is served by Southwest, America's largest budget airline. Distance from the airport to the South Rim is about 220 miles via I-17 north to Flagstaff and U.S. 180 on to the park. A check of the Internet shows Dollar (dollar.com, 800/800-3665) offering a weekly rate this summer of $144 for an economy car. Next lowest is Thrifty (thrifty.com, 800/847-4389) at $149. Grand Canyon National Park entrance fee is $20 per car, good for seven days. Plan on spending the night before and after your hike on the South Rim. Cabins for two begin at about $65 at Maswik and Bright Angel Lodges. The cafeteria at Maswik provides inexpensive meals. All South Rim and Phantom Ranch lodging reservations can be made through AmFac (303/297-2757, grandcanyonlodges.com). For peak-season summer hikes only, you may have to book Phantom Ranch bunk space 23 months in advance. An adventure like this is worth the wait. Grand Canyon information: 928/638-7888.

Hilary Nangle answered your questions Tuesday, June 1, 2004 at noon EST. Freelance writer Hilary Nangle has lived in Maine since childhood. Her articles have appeared in publications such as Budget Travel, Yankee, New England Travel and Life, Where to Retire and Ski, and she appears regularly as a travel expert on "207," a nightly news magazine show on WCSH6, the NBC affiliate in Portland, Maine. Hilary's contributed the Maine chapters to dozens of guidebooks, and she's currently researching the second edition of Moon Handbooks Coastal Maine. Although she grew up in the Portland area, she's been migrating up the coast since and now calls the Mid-coast home. An avid skier, she spends much of the winter at Sugarloaf, in Maine's Western Mountains. She travels throughout the state frequently with her husband, photographer Tom Nangle. _______________________ Hilary Nangle: Hi, Thanks for joining me. I'm looking forward to answering your questions during the next hour. Hilary _______________________ Edgewood, KY: Hi, we are going to Alden Camps in Oakland for a week for the fourth time the end of Aug. For our post-camp sidetrip this year we would like to visit Deer Island and Isle au Haut. Can you recommend a clean, basic, inexpensive place to spend a couple of nights? Any restaurant recommendations in that area (lobster, of course!)? Thanks for any help you can give. Hilary Nangle: Check out Eggemoggin Landing (acadia.net/eggland), just over the bridge on Little Deer Isle and facing Eggemoggin Reach. Rooms are basic motel style, but clean and comfortable, and rates include a continental breakfast. A bit pricier but worth the money, is the Inn on the Harbor (innontheharbor.com). It's right on Stonington's Main Street; easy walking distance to the Isle au Haut ferry. It has a huge deck hanging over the harbor, where you can enjoy the continental breakfast that ' included in the rates. For lobster-in-the-rough, head to Eaton s'Lobster Pool, on Little Deer Isle. Nice ocean view, especially at sunset. Make reservations for weekends, 207-348-2383. Both Finest Kind Dining and Fishermans Friend have long-established reputations are equally popular with locals and tourists. Last summer, I enjoyed meals at both Lily's and the Island Star Cafe, both on Route 15. Both are casual and creative, catering more to the areas 'rtistic and summer-resident population. If you re'up for a splurge, ask locally about Pilgrim s 'nn. It s 'lways had a stellar reputation, but it just changed hands. Isle au Haut is wonderful to visit for a day. If your wallet s f't, you might consider splurging on a night at The Keeper s H'use. You ll 'leep in a renovated lighthouse keeper s h'use or the primitive oil house, and get three meals, but the rates are gasp-worthy; keepershouse.com. _______________________ Pittsburgh, PA: Are there nice and warm beaches in Maine in August? Can you give me some your best recommendations? Hilary Nangle: Maine has beautiful sand beaches. As for warm, well that depends on your definition of warm. As a child, I swam in Maine waters from late May into September. These days, older and perhaps wiser, I'm a bit pickier. The best bets for warm water are the beaches lining the southern coast: Old Orchard, Ogunquit, Wells, Kennebunk and York. Popham Beach, at the tip of the Phippsburg Peninsula, is another possibility. For the warmest water, time your swim with the tides. It will be warmest when the tide rolls in over sun-warmed sands. _______________________ Mt. Airy, MD : Are reservations necessary for a driving trip or are motel/hotel rooms usually available? I am interested in the blueberry festival and events. Thanks. Hilary Nangle: Reservations are highly recommended. If you're thinking about the Machias Blueberry Festival, lodging in that region is limited, so do make room reservations or you might end up driving a long distance. Reservations aren't as necessary in the spring or fall except for holiday weekends and peak foliage but still, it's a good idea to make them, at least for your first night or two. _______________________ Seattle, WA: What are the best locations for vacationing with kids, 10-20 years of age? And when is the best time weather-wise? Hilary Nangle: Let's start with weather. You know the old saying, if you don't like it, wait a minute. It's oh-so-true in Maine. In general, August tends to be nice. September is undoubtedly the best, but that's difficult if you're traveling with kids. As for where, here are a few possibilities: Portland: Honestly, I don t'see how anyone could get bored in Portland. It s'a very walkable city and a comfortable one no skyscrapers, and it has a vibrant, but not overwhelming, cultural scene, and it s'an active seaport. Take a ferry to the islands of Casco Bay and spend an afternoon or a day exploring one or more. Ride a Narrow Gauge railway along the waterfront. The Old Port has fabulous restaurants and shops. One often cited but unverified statistic boasts that Portland has more restaurants per capita than any other city but San Francisco, and it s'easy to believe. Good food is plentiful in all price categories. Portland has a world-class art museum, a renowned Victorian house museum, a quirky museum of African Tribal Art, a number of performing arts houses. Architectural walking tours are available. Excursion, sailing and fishing boats leave from the waterfront (Eagle Island is a fun trip). And Freeport, home to L.L. Bean and scores of outlets, is just 20 minutes or so away. Mt. Desert/Acadia/Bar Harbor: Acadia National Park and its wealth of outdoor-oriented activities is the big draw, but there are plenty of other activities, too. Museums, shops, restaurants, a good range of lodging/camping possibilities, a couple of theaters, etc. I went into more detail in another thread about vacationing with kids. Now let me throw one more possibility into the mix: Bangor, Aug. 27-29, for the free, three-day, National Folk Festival. It s p'rhaps the best value in Maine: three days of non-stop entertainment on five stages, all free. The entertainers are all top notch, most of national caliber, too. By the way, it s fo'k as in multi-ethnic traditional and roots music and dance, not folk as in Peter, Paul and Mary. Fabulous blues, great bluegrass, everything from Portuguese to Vietnamese, Native American to Congolese. It all takes place along the Penobscot River, under tents and it outdoor stages. Plentiful food, fabulous crafts, children s ac'ivities and more. Check nationalfolkfestival.com for this year s li'eup and lodging links. Bangor is about an hour from the coast; about two hours from Maine s whi'ewater rafting rivers and the wilderness of Baxter State Park. _______________________ Haverhill, MA: Driving on I-95 to and from Maine last summer on vacation was a nightmare. The traffic south of Portland was gridlocked. Has anything been done to alleviate the traffic problems? Hilary Nangle: The Maine Turnpike is in the final year of a five-year widening project. The result will be worthwhile, but until it's completed, delays are inevitable. While there are plenty of backroads get yourself a current copy of DeLorme's Maine Gazeteer map and guidebook it does take time, and even those can be crowded at peak times. Best strategy is to avoid peak times and to check the Maine Turnpike ' web site (wineturnpike.com) or 511maine.gov before hitting the road or dialing 511 on a cellular phone, when on the road, for current reports. Oh, and if you haven t'already heard, all the exits have been renumbered to reflect mileage from the border. More info on eturnpike.com. _______________________ Washington, DC: I'd like to travel to Aroostook County to take advantage of white water rafting and the wilderness. What do you recommend? Where should we go and stay? Hilary Nangle: Aroostook County is big, beautiful, remote and undeveloped, but it's not whitewater rafting country. (whitewater canoeing, yes: Allagash, St. Croix and St. John Rivers). Maine has three dam-controlled whitewater rivers that provide Class III-V rafting from May through September, all are in west/central Maine. The Kennebec and the Dead meet in The Forks (follow Route 207 north from Augusta on a map), where numerous outfitters are based and have lodging facilities (campgrounds, B&Bs, lodges, etc.). The Penobscot flows in the shadow of Mt. Katahdin on the edge of Baxter State Park, near Millinocket (north of Bangor). Again, most of the major companies also have bases with full facilities here. (raftmaine.com). Greenville is smack in the middle, about an hour-plus drive from either over back roads. You can get to the Kennebec from Greenville via paved roads, but getting to the Penob requires traveling over often rough, dirt roads. If you v' got an SUV or any rugged vehicle (our Suburu Outback handles it just fine). In any case, you l' want a car with good road clearance, and you l' want to drive slowly to avoid potholes as well as wildlife and also logging trucks this road is privately owned, and these rigs have the right of way. Now here s 'nother idea, if wilderness is your goal. Consider staying at a traditional Maine sporting camp. These usually comprise lakeside log cabins and a central lodge, where all meals are provided. Cabins are usually rustic, but comfortable heated by woods, oil lanterns for light, bathrooms with running hot and cold water, flush and shower or tub. No TV, no phones (and cell phones usually don t 'ork). Fabulous star-gazing, wildlife watching, canoeing, hiking and fishing. Do these on your own or hire a Registered Maine Guide for a photo or wildlife safari, whitewater canoeing or fishing. Two favorites are Libby Camps, liamps.com and Bradford Camps, bradfordcamps.com. Neither is easy to get to, but well worth the effort. _______________________ Lumberton, NJ: We're trying do decide where to go in August. Where is there more to do for kids: Bar Harbor or the Mid-Coast? Hilary Nangle: I'd probably lean toward Bar Harbor, if only because it's a defined spot. The Mid-Coast stretches from Brunswick through Bucksport, and while there's plenty to do, it is spread out (although the Bath area, with the Maine Maritime Museum, Popham Beach one of Maine's finest and Fort Popham has potential, as does Rockland, with its museums and ferry service to Vinalhaven for a day trip). Depending upon your kids 'ages, here are a few ideas in Bar Harbor:   Of course, begin with the park. Start at the Visitor Center and pick up a copy of the Beaver Log, the weekly newspaper detailing all the activities. You ll find guided hikes, nature walks, presentations, etc., many geared to kids. Get into and enjoy the park, bike the carriage roads, go hiking, etc.   Consider visiting one of the islands off Mt. Desert. Ferries service Cranberry and Swans.   Go out on a whale watch   Go out with Diver Ed s Dive In Theater (a real winner, ask any local; divered.com)   visit the Abbe Museum, which chronicles Maine s Native American history; check its web site to see if any special family events are scheduled, abbemuseum.org.   Bar Harbor Oceanarium, a low-tech, aquarium-style museum and lobster hatchery   Bar Harbor has two great theaters: the Criterion, an Art Deco classic, and Reel Pizza, where you can lounge on couches, eat pizza and watch flicks.   Ben and Bill s Chocolate Emporium. The ice cream and the chocolate, both made on site, are out of this world, and you can dare your kids to try lobster ice cream.   There s a passenger ferry that connects with Winter Harbor, at the tip of the Schoodic Peninsula, and the Explorer Bus coordinates with that schedule and travels to the Schoodic section of the park. Norman, OK: We'll be traveling to Maine in late July/early August. What's the one thing not to miss? Hilary Nangle: The ONE thing? Hard to say, without knowing your interests, but Acadia National Park is hard to beat. Here's the thing, though: Most folks just stay in the car and drive the Park Loop Road, perhaps popping out for a sight or two. To really enjoy Acadia, you have to escape the crowds by getting out of your car and into the park: walk or bike the carriage roads, take a hike (some are really easy), kayak along the shorefront, ferry to an off-shore island. If you 'e visiting inland, Baxter State Park is a gem as is Moosehead Lake. If lobster s'on your agenda, the Maine Lobster Festival is a don t'miss event. It takes place in Rockland, Aug. 4-9, (elobsterfestival.com). And do visit the Farnsworth Museum of American Art, while you r' in town. If you re'vacationing on the coast, make it a point to get out on the water. Take a cruise, go out on a lobster boat, take a sunset sail, ferry to an island, go whalewatching just don t 'iss the opportunity. Windjammers head out of numerous ports, cruising from a few hours to a week. Inexpensive ferries (out of Portland, Rockland, and other ports) service offshore islands, making for fun day trips pack a picnic lunch, perhaps rent a bicycle and explore. One of my favorite events is a real sleeper of a crafts fair, July 24-25, in Grand Lake Stream, way up in way down east Maine. If your travels take you to that part of Maine, and you re a'fan of folk art-style crafts and blue grass music, it s a 'un event, with about 50 vendors and three or four musicians or groups. ( No web, 207-796-8199). Grand Lake Stream is the literal town at the end of the road. It s su'rounded by lakes, and is renowned among anglers. Not the kind of place most folks would consider a don t mi's, but if you prefer more understated things and a wilderness setting near the coast, it might be right for you. _______________________ Columbus, OH: Would you recommend a first-time visitor to rent a car and travel the coast, staying at multiple hotels or to book a single spot to stay and travel back and forth to sites? Hilary Nangle: I think the best way to explore Maine is to use a hub-and-spoke strategy. For one thing, changing hotel rooms every night is exhausting. It also gives you no place to just chill out on that inevitable rainy day. I'm on the road a lot in Maine, and whenever I have the opportunity to plant myself in one place for a few days, I always find things I never would have found otherwise. Return to the same coffee shop two or three days in a row, and you're practically a local. Beginning in the Mid-Coast region, around Brunswick, through Down East, the coast comprises long peninsulas that are just plain fun to explore, and you need time to do so. While it may appear that you can do Rockland in a day, if you want to head down the St. George Peninsula, add at least another half-day; if you want to continue out to Monhegan, another day. While it's tempting to want to cover a lot of territory on your trip, I think you l' enjoy it more if you allow yourself time to really explore a region or two. _______________________ Princeton, NJ: I am an older single mom with some health issues and have a 7-year-old daughter who gets carsick on long trips. I just learned recently that you can get to Portland by train from NYC now in 3 hours and am considering coming with her in August for a week or two but am concerned about being the sole entertainment, especially if I'm not feeling well some time. Where would you go and where would you recommend our staying in and around the Portland area? I will rent a car but would like to be able to walk in a town and want some areas with character and charm. I've considered both Portland itself and have heard some talk about Blue Hill, but am open to your suggestions of where to stay and what to do that's fun and kid-friendly and that would also maybe help me scope out the area for relocation and retirement potential in a few years. Many thanks. Hilary Nangle: Portland is a great town to explore, and it's walkable (with hills, uneven brick sidewalks). First though, yes you can arrive by train, but you do have to switch stations in Boston, from South Station, where you'll arrive, to North Station, where you'll depart for Maine. Easy to do via the T-subway system, but keep it in mind when packing or take a cab pricier, but easier with luggage. Portland has a great children's museum with Maine themes, well suited for your daughter's age. Also, consider a ride on the Narrow Gauge Railway along the waterfront. On a calm day, take a ferry ride to one of the Casco Bay Islands, a quick hop to Peaks, a half-day Mail Boat ride taking in a number of islands, or a fun and educational trip to Eagle. Shops and restaurants are plentiful. You might want to check the Eastland Park Hotel, a recently renovated historical hotel in the Arts District, across from the Portland Museum of Art and the adjacent Children's Museum. It s'well suited for exploring and is family friendly, and it's reasonable for a full-service city hotel. Another choice, a long walk but short bus ride from intown attractions, is the Inn at St. John (although not as nice a neighborhood). Within easy rental car driving: Fort Williams Park, in Cape Elizabeth bring a kite and do visit the lighthouse; L.L. Bean and the outlets of Freeport; Maine Maritime Museum, in Bath a bit more of a drive, but worth it. Take an easy walk around Mackworth Island, in Falmouth. Spend some time at the beach: Crescent Beach State Park in Cape Elizabeth is gentle and has facilities. Old Orchard is a bigger, busier beach with an amusement area and a short pier. _______________________ Fort Pierce, FL: Hi Hilary, we are planning to visit Maine, hopefully this year but the fuel prices may delay it till next year. We are seniors traveling by motorhome. My question is, can you steer us to the campground that you would consider a good one for a base to see lighthouses and small seafaring towns, for good eats and photos? Hilary Nangle: I've heard good things about Searsport Shores Campiing Resort, in the Mid-Coast region. Searsport, is home to the Penobscot Marine Museum, and nearby Belfast is a wonderful harbor town. From there, you're within easy striking distance of the Blue Hill Peninsula, which has numerous small seafaring towns and is very picturesque. Visit campmaine.com or call 207-782-5874 and ask for a copy of the 2004 Maine Camping Guide. _______________________ New Port Richey, FL: My ancestors settled in Shirley, Maine in the early 1700's. Where is that in relation to a major airport? I would like to visit and look up the family records. Does Delta fly to Maine? Hilary Nangle: Yes Delta flies to Maine. Shirley Mills is just west of Greenville (which is where you'll find lodging). Closest airport is Bangor. _______________________ Pittsburgh, PA: I would like to do a summer vacation in Maine and wanted to know were you think the best beach would be. I have a family of four. My kids are 9 and 12. Thank you. Hilary Nangle: Ogunquit, Kennebunk, Old Orchard and Scarborough. The first three are in active tourist communities, with lots of lodging and dining opportunities and other things to do (Ogunquit is artsy and gay friendly; York has a small zoo, great saltwater taffy and ice cream shop; Kennebunk is more upscale, with boutiques and such, but also the Trolley Museum, great for kids; Old Orchard has an amusement pier and is popular with Canadians, too, giving it a French accent). Scarborough is more of a bedroom community for Portland. The one beach that always gets named in Best Beach contests, though, is Popham, at the tip of the Phippsburg Peninsula. That ' home to a state park, but otherwise is probably less busy than those in the southern part of the state. There's an adjacent fort, and it ' near Bath and the Maine Maritime Museum. If you're going for natural beach, probably Popham. For a more active vacation, one where your kids would likely meet other vacationing kids, probably one of the southern ones. _______________________ Minneapolis, MN: We will be visiting Portland, Maine in September. Where's the best place to get lobster (the more casual the better!) within walking distance of the cruise ship pier? Hilary Nangle: Two to consider, both real casual: The Port Hole OR Portland Lobster Co. _______________________ Clinton, NJ: Hi, is there a best time to go to Maine when the mosquitoes are not out? We will be going to Perry, Eastport area and the mosquitoes drive me crazy. Thanks. Hilary Nangle: Aim for August or later. _______________________ Atlanta, GA: Into which airport would you recommend flying in order to travel to Maine? Thank you. Hilary Nangle: You'll likely get your best fares into Boston or Manchester (NH), but Portland is closest for Southern and most of the Mid-Coast; Bangor's best for the Down East Coast (Bar Harbor and Acadia) and the Moosehead area. If you do fly into Boston, Concord Trailways bus lines provides reasonable, regular service, picking up at each terminal and dropping you off at the Portland Transportation Center. It's much preferable than trying to rent a car and drive out of Boston. _______________________ Ennis, TX: If I vacation in Maine, how close could I get to Stephen King's house and might I be lucky enough to meet the man himself, even getting a book signed? Thank you. Hilary Nangle: You can walk right by his house in Bangor. You can usually get signed copies of his books and other King-related goodies at Bett's Bookstore, in Bangor. Bett's is the best place to check in to see whether King is around or where he might be spotted (perhaps at the so-called Field of Screams Little League Park). _______________________ Mexico Beach, FL: We are going to be in Maine, staying in Portland from July 10 to 24. What are some activities such as festivals, plays, and music programs going on throughout the state during that time? Hilary Nangle: Wow, there's so much that happens in that period. Your best bet is to log on to visitmaine.com and go to the calendar section. You can enter your dates, and all the events scheduled will be listed. I'm betting there will be pages of them. _______________________ Louisville, KY: Leaving our husbands behind, the two of us will fly into Portland, ME Sept. 22 thru Oct.7. We will rent a car and travel to the Canadian Maritimes and Maine coast. What places should we stop overnight, and please recommend hotels and B&Bs. Hilary Nangle: Lucky you! Spend your first night or two in Portland. The city has some wonderful small inns and B&Bs on its historic West End The Danforth, West End Inn, Inn on Carleton and the Pomegranate are all wonderful. Mosey up to Freeport if outlet shopping and L.L. Bean are on your to-do list, consider a night at the Harraseeket Inn, a handsome full-service inn just a couple of blocks from the shops. The Pemaquid Peninsula is another good bet. I mentioned a couple of places in the BT article, but if you're looking for something a bit fancier (and pricier): the Newcastle Inn or the Bradley Inn. Everyone loves Camden, and you'll probably want to spend some time here, but just another 20 minutes up the coast is Belfast, where lodging and dining tend to be a little less expensive. I love Belfast as it is less touristy than Camden and has a real feel to it. Try the Jewelled Turret B&B. You'll likely want to spend a few days meandering around the Blue Hill Peninsula and down to Deer Isle and Stonington, perhaps even out to Isle au Haut. Good places to call it a night are Castine (the Castine Inn or the Pentagoet), Brooksville you might be able to get a cottage or room at the Oakland House at that time of year; Deer Isle and Stonington (see other threads). In Bar Harbor, my favorite inn is the Ullikana. It's tucked behind Bar Harbor's main street, within walking distance to everything, yet quiet and full of character. The innkeepers really know the park, and the inn itself comprises two buildings, one a tudor manse filled with antiques and contemporary art; the other a cottage done in Old Bar Harbor style. Another choice on the quieter side of Mt. Dessert is the Island House, in Southwest Harbor. In the Schoodic area, Oceanside Meadows is THE place to stay. Lodgings get fewer and farther between as you continue up the coast, but this is one of my favorite areas. In Lubec, try the Homeport Inn; in Eastport, try the Weston House, lovely but shared baths. _______________________ New Hartford, NY: Hi. We are vacationing in Wells in August, and are interested in visiting some lighthouses in close proximity. Can you give us some information? Hilary Nangle: Contact Lighthouse Depot in Wells (lighthousedepot.com; 207-646-0608). It is THE spot for lighthouse lovers and it has all the info you could possibly want about lighthouses in the area or anywhere. Among the ones you'll be able to easily see is Cape Neddick Light. Most others can be viewed from various mainland points or on light-house viewing cruises. _______________________ Riverside, NJ: Hello Hilary, I will be traveling to Owl's Head in July, the week of the 17th. I am interested in visiting museums, nature areas (photography) and, of course, sampling the regional cuisine. Do you have any suggestions? Hilary Nangle: For museums, there are quite a few: the Owls Head Transportation Museum is a must for old-car buffs, and its weekend events often include an aerobatic airplane show. The Farnsworth Museum, in Rockland, has a fabulous collection of American Art and a whole center devoted to the Wyeths. You can also visit the famed Olson House. The Shore Village Museum is great for lighthouse buffs. Do take a cruise to Monhegan island for nature and photography. It's a must (but don't do it if it's foggy). Regional cuisine: Waterman's Beach Lobster, in So. Thomaston. Chef Melissa Kelly, of Primo, in Rockland, on the Owls Head line, is a James Beard award winner. It's pricey. _______________________ St Paul, MN: Is it possible to find a oceanfront home, anywhere along the coast, for two people in their 50s that is 'affordable' - within $250k? Hilary Nangle: Only if I get first refusal! Not easy...but prices do drop the more Down East you go. Check Machias through Eastport. _______________________ Las Vegas, NV: I am on a budget and would like to stay at a place where you don't feel like a tourist and get a feel for the lifestyle and the local people...a place that is cozy and friendly and hopefully make a friend. I would be gone at least two weeks. Thanks. Hilary Nangle: Belfast and Portland come to mind. Hit the local restaurants and coffee shops and go to local church or community suppers. _______________________ Menifee, CA: Is it possible to use Maine as a home base to visit Montreal, Quebec, and Prince Charles Island? Is there a train system you can use to get there? Hilary Nangle: Not really. All are quite distant. Rail links Canadian points, but not Maine ones. _______________________ Manasquan, NJ: We will be vacationing for the first time in Maine 2 weeks in August. We are staying at a house on Big Sebago Lake in Raymond. What would be some great day trips to do while there? Hilary Nangle: Portland for its wealth of activities. Take a driving loop through Naples, Bridgton, the Waterfords, perhaps even to Bethel, to get a taste of the mountains. Lots of antiques shops; even a bison ranch. Freeport, for L.L. Bean and outlets, then up to Bath for the Maine Maritime Museum. Check visitmaine.com's calendar for area events. _______________________ Houston, TX: My wife and I have never been to Maine. We would like to take 3 or 4 days this summer to drive the coastal area. What itinerary would you suggest? Hilary Nangle: For beaches, concentrate on the Southern Coast, from York up to Portland. For a more rural, scenic route, loop around the Blue Hill Peninsula. _______________________ Great Barrington, MA: We want to go to the Yarmouth Clam Festival. Where should we stay for a Thursday-Sunday weekend? We'd like quaint and nice accommodations, near the ocean with A/C and TV. Hilary Nangle: Now I haven't been there yet, but I'm hearing good things about the Chebeague Island Inn, a short ferry ride from Yarmouth. In nearby Freeport, try the Harraseeket Inn. Or, try some of the inns on Portland's West end noted in another answer. _______________________ Hilary Nangle: I've really enjoyed answering your questions. I'm sorry I wasn't able to get to all of them, but you might find the answers to your question in another answer, so do browse through. Enjoy your summer wherever you go, but I truly hope your plans include Maine. Hilary _______________________