Summertime in Anchorage

I'm sure the executive types who staff Seattle's cluster of gleaming steel-and-glass skyscrapers show up for work in Nordstrom's finest pinstripes. But down on the sidewalks, the rest of the folks are apt to be decked out in hiking boots, down parkas, and other hardy outdoor wear. And for good reason. A budget traveler's haven, Seattle is an out-of-doors city - an exciting urban center of fine art galleries, museums, and concert halls wrapped closely by a rugged Northwest wilderness of expansive seascapes and soaring, snow-tipped mountains. Cosmopolitan pleasures here are served up with frontier flavor. In Seattle you really want to be outdoors, where the crisp air - a mix of tangy sea and icy mountain - puts a bounce in your step in any season. This is a city made for walking, and walking is the best and cheapest way for a cost-conscious visitor to explore. No need to pay big bucks to rent a car or hail a taxi; you can get almost anywhere you will want to be on foot. Too much walking for you? On downtown streets, Metro Transit buses are free. Step aboard and tour in comfort. As in many foreign cities, Seattle's captivating street scenes - its dramatic architecture, parks, amazing collection of contemporary crafts shops, and panoramic views - are what you will remember most. And none costs a penny. You really can have a terrific time on foot, as I did recently, without spending more than a few bucks on entertainment. Inviting lodging and cozy cafes, all within the bustling city center, are easy on the budget, too. A big-city dweller myself, I found plenty to keep me busy. On self-guided walking tours, I explored several very different close-in neighborhoods, seeking out the many free and rewarding things to see and do. Initially, I expected to spend my time at Seattle's fee-charging museums and other attractions. But the free stuff proved more interesting, and I really wanted to be outdoors more. At any point where my energy flagged, one of the city's famed coffee houses stood just a few steps away. Architectural oddities As I walked, I paid special attention to the pleasing architecture, both contemporary and historic, juxtaposed on the city's steep, roller-coaster hillsides. A few whimsical oddities got me chuckling. One curious eye-catcher - a massive glass box at the REI outdoor sports store - turns out to house one of the world's tallest indoor climbing walls. Climbers inch to the top of its 65-foot summit, while a line at the bottom waits to follow. At Seattle Center, site of the soaring 605-foot-high Space Needle, the latest architectural curiosity is the futuristic structure designed by the acclaimed Frank Gehry for the Experience Music Project, a rock music museum (entrance fee, $19.95; skip it). A Technicolor mass of undulating metal, it resembles the crumpled sheets of an unmade bed. Is Gehry's style art for the future or a passing fancy like Cadillac fins? Judge for yourself. One recent morning I strolled along the waterfront, watching cargo ships sail past on Puget Sound. A brass plaque at Waterfront Park marks the site where a ship from Alaska docked in 1897 carrying a legendary "ton of gold," sparking the great Klondike Gold Rush. Across the Sound, the 7,000-foot-high Olympic Mountains play hide-and-seek in the clouds. At Steamers (two waterfront locations), I stopped for a fresh, reasonably priced Northwest seafood lunch with a water view. A basket of prawns and chips made a tasty meal at just $7.29. Another day, I wandered the exotic streets of Chinatown, the International District, where inexpensive cafes serve a kaleidoscope of Asian foods. Looking like a rich Chinese temple, the Ocean City Restaurant tempted with a six-course Family Kowloon Dinner. Just $9.95 with tea. Uwajimaya, a massive Japanese food-and-gift market, is stocked with odd fruits and vegetables you won't find at your neighborhood Safeway. Recognize gobo, a Japanese turnip, or lobar, a Korean radish? Nope. Opting for a more recognizable treat, I tried an 80[cents] coconut tart from the Yummy House Bakery. In the next stall, a uniformed crew of Japanese women assembled trays of carry-out sushi and bento boxes for the lunch crowd. Across the street, a warehouse-size shop called Eileen of China is filled with fine Asian antiques and porcelains. As if I were in a great museum, I roamed the aisles intrigued by such items as two beautifully hand-carved chairs, priced at $8,000 for the pair. Briefly I tested one for comfort. You can't do that in any museum. Artworks in glass As much as anything, though, I marveled at the quality of Seattle's many contemporary arts and crafts galleries, popping up in clusters almost everywhere I turned. I discovered that Seattle is second only to Venice in the number of studios creating colorful artworks in glass. Giant sculptures by Dale Chihuly, who launched Seattle's adventure with glass-blowing 30 years ago, can be easily seen at Benaroya Hall, where the Seattle Symphony plays, and in the lobby of the nearby Alexis Hotel. In and out I went, shop after shop, feasting my eyes for free. On I strolled during my penny-pincher's tour. A prime (indeed, indispensable) destination for any visitor afoot is the sprawling Pike Place Market, reputedly the nation's oldest continually working farmer's market (since 1907). Overlooking the harbor, it's a crazy, crowded scene where fishmongers play catch with salmon, vendors sing the praises of their fresh produce, and street musicians serenade with Mozart airs. Out front, the life-size bronze pig called Rachel is an example of Seattle's trove of public art, all viewable for free to foot travelers. For a cheap meal, enjoy a hearty buffet breakfast or lunch at the aptly named Sound View Cafe, for only about $3.50. Also at the market, check out Ticket/Ticket, the half-price, day-of-show ticket booth. Seattle loves theater, ranking third (Seattle claims) behind New York and Chicago in the number of professional theaters. When I stopped by, the booth listed two dozen choices, including an acclaimed production of Macbeth by the Seattle Shakespeare Company. Tucked into a nearby alleyway, the popular Market Theater features improvisational comedy for just $10 (full-price) Friday and Saturday, $5 Sunday. The young crowd from two nearby hostels loves the place. The Klondike boom Seattle's frontier past unfolds on a walk through Pioneer Square, a neighborhood of more art galleries, boutiques, and pubs displaying a fine Victorian face. Period street lights are decorated with baskets filled with flowers, a pleasant setting for outdoor cafés. Pause at the Visitor Center of the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park; the little museum features exhibits and movies detailing Seattle's role in the Klondike gold rush. Thousands of adventurers poured into town en route to the gold fields, giving the young lumber center a major economic boost. The museum is free, as are the almost daily readings by notable authors at the Elliott Bay Book Company just up the street. All rough wood beams and odd nooks and crannies, the huge store is so cozy I stopped by to browse every afternoon. Almost everywhere, glorious views of Puget Sound boost your spirits. And so, like me, you'll want to get on the water. The budget way is to board one of the Washington State Ferries for a round-trip cruise to a nearby island. The 35-minute ferry to Bainbridge Island, a popular choice, departs almost hourly, costing just $4.50 each-way. My head spun as I relished the Olympic views ahead and Seattle's thrilling skyline in our wake. More information Getting There: Budget-priced Southwest, JetBlue, and Frontier airlines serve Seattle, getting your trip off to an economical start. To reach downtown, catch Metro Transit bus 194, about a 25-minute ride costing $2 rush hour, $1.25 non-rush. The Airport Express bus (206/626-6088) charges $8.50 one way; $14 round-trip. Before leaving the airport, stop at the visitor information booth for a free booklet of discount coupons to many of Seattle's most interesting attractions. Lodging: A year-round destination, Seattle boasts a mild climate that tends to be cooler and damper in winter. Bring that parka in any season. But hotel and motel rates are generally cheaper from November through April, dropping as much as 50 percent. High-season rates are provided for these recommended lodgings: Least expensive: Near Pike Place Market, the 193-bed Hostelling International facility (888/622-5443), $19 to $26, or the 37-room Green Tortoise Backpackers Hostel (206/340-1222), $20. Best buy for families: Also near the market, the well-kept Moore Hotel, a historic 120-room property (800/421-5508), a real find at $67 for two. Intriguingly funky: Near the International District, the historic, mostly restored 100-room Panama Hotel (206/223-9242), $65 for two with shared bath. Chic boutique: In Belltown near the Space Needle, the hip 30-room Ace Hotel (206/448-4721), starting at $65 per room with shared bath. Motel country: Also near the Space Needle, the 68-room Kings Inn (800/546-4760), $75 per room weekdays/$85 weekends, or the 73-room Travelodge Downtown (800/578-7878), $89. Dining: For a wide choice of Asian meals under $10, head for the International District and scan the menus in dozens of windows. Closer to city center hotels, Belltown bustles with well-priced cafes, many serving contemporary Northwest menus. Try the neighborly Belltown Pub & Cafe (salmon-cake dinner, $11.95); the similarly cozy Virginia Inn (crab-cake plate, $10.50); Sonya's (beer-baked fish and chips, $9); Zeek's Pizza (the gourmet "tree-hugger" for two, $13.50); and the stylish little Noodle Ranch (grilled pork with Vietnamese marinade, $8.50). Information: Seattle Convention & Visitors Bureau (206/461-5840, seeseattle.org).

C'est possible? A crop of sleek new economy hotels in one of Europe's most notorious graveyards for vacation budgets? With good, clean rooms as cheap as $46 a night? Mais oui. Though you'll find them in almost no American guidebooks, a slew of slickly modern (for the most part) budget hotels called Ibis have stealthily emerged within the city limits of Paris, most of them near metro (subway) stops a five-minute ride from the Seine. Operated by Accor Hotels (800/221-4542), which owns Motel 6 and Red Roof Inns in the States, Ibis' Parisian branches now total several thousand rooms in 57 individual properties, of which 20 are in the central city and 37 more in the suburbs beyond the peripherique ring road. Taking a leaf from les americains, the cookie-cutter Ibises have become the McDonald's of European budget lodgings (486 such properties are scattered across the continent) by taking the guesswork out of finding reliable modern digs with certain minimum features: private bathroom, TV, phone, and room service (though not always air-conditioning). Rates in Paris (with the exception of one property) run 330-545 francs ($46-$78) per double (singles just slightly less)--not including another $5.40 for the buffet breakfast and $10 for three-course meals. All properties have elevators, most have bars, and many have restaurants, as well as 24-hour hot snack service; locations are in good yet relatively less expensive neighborhoods. Drawbacks? Attractive but tiny, rather clumsily designed rooms with papier-thin walls; severely limited storage space; bathrooms not easily maneuvered by the "full-figured" among us; lack of frills like shampoo and desks with actual drawers; and service sometimes closer to traditional Parisian hauteur and sullenness than to the perky "customer-is-always-right" approach of, say, America's Microtel. And if you want local color and charm, find a more traditional petit hotel down the boulevard (our recommendations for that in a soon-to-come issue). But with that in mind, and abetted by one of the most impressive exchange rates in years (recently around 7 francs to the dollar) and info on the 20 key "inside-the-beltway" Ibises, you can have even a modest budget singin' on the Seine. Right Bank Ibis Gare de L'Est 165 rooms with air-conditioning, some for nonsmokers/disabled; bar, restaurant, on-premises parking; single $60, double $66. A couple of blocks from the grand Gare de l'Est and Gare du Nord train stations, this yellow, eight-floor updated version of classic nineteenth-century Parisian design (complete with mansard roofs) is walkable to many shops and restaurants in its workaday neighborhood. 197-199 rue La Fayette, 10th arrondissement; tel. 44-65-70-00, fax 44-65-70-07. Ibis Gare L'Est/Boulevard de Strasbourg 68 AC rooms, nonsmoking/disabled; bar, parking; single $64, double $68. An early twentieth-century building with a relaxing lobby, it's on a quiet little lane named for the atmospheric fifteenth-century stone church around the corner. 6 rue Saint Laurent, 10th arr.; 40-38-05-05, fax 42-05-71-16. Ibis Lafayette 70 AC rooms, nonsmoking/disabled; single $62, double $69. Intimate in a 1990s kind of way, it's got a cute little reception/bar area, a charming yard with ivy-covered walls, trees, tables, and chairs. Or hang out with Parisians of all ages across the street in the petite park adjoining the imposing, neoclassical St. Vincent de Paul. 122 rue La Fayette, 10th arr.; 45-23-27-27, fax 42-46-73-79. Ibis Republique 67 rooms, nonsmoking; bar; single $62, double $66. Steps from the place de la Republique and an easy stroll to Chatelet-Les Halles and the Op,ra, the handsome gray town house dating from 1896 mixes six floors of standard-issue rooms with local flavor like a genteel white foyer and stone vaults in the basement breakfast room. 9 rue Leon Jouhaux, 10th arr.; 42-40-40-11-12, fax 42-40-11-12. Ibis Jemmapes Louis Blanc 49 rooms, disabled; restaurant; single $60, double $67. Tucked onto a very quiet side street near a canal and lined with modern apartment houses, the eight-story, sand-color older building has been renovated beyond recognition. It's unexceptional but certainly pleasant, and a short hop to busy boulevard La Fayette; for peace and quiet, a great choice. 12 rue Louis Blanc, 10th arr.; 42-01-21-21, fax 42-08-21-40. Ibis Bastille 305 rooms, nonsmoking, disabled; bar, restaurant, parking; single $64, double $71. Punctuated by porthole-style bathroom windows, it's an easy walk to place de la Bastille with its mod performance hall, and to ritzy place des Vosges and the medieval Marais. Nearby is a very happening (and late) nightlife along rue de la Roquette and rue de Lappe, as well as neat street markets along boulevard Richard Lenoir. 15 rue Breguet, 11th arr.; 49-29-20-20, fax 49-29-20-30. Ibis Menilmontant Pere-Lachaise 31 rooms, nonsmoking; bar; single $61, double $66. On a side street in a low-key working-class area-once the stomping ground of Maurice Chevalier and Edith Piaf and now enjoying a retro resurgence among cool Parisians - this yellow Ibis is small and friendly. And necrophiles will dig the nearby Pere-Lachaise cemetery, one of the world's most beautiful, where you can commune with the likes of Colette, Jim Morrison, and Oscar Wilde. Rue la Folie Regnault, 11th arr.; 53-36-82-92, fax 53-36-82-99. Ibis Bercy Expo 195 AC rooms, nonsmoking/disabled; parking, bar, restaurant; rooms $60. Fans of modern architecture will like this sleek sandstone-faced property, next to a huge movie multiplex and a food trade-show hall (often open to the public). Even more interesting is the newly restored thirteenth-century village of Bercy, its former wine warehouses hosting shops, restaurants, and the Club Med World entertainment complex. 19 place des Vins de France, 12th arr.; 49-28-06-06, fax 49-28-06-20. Ibis Gare de Lyon 119 AC rooms; nonsmoking; parking; single $69, double $71. Among the grand town houses along this big, bustling thoroughfare, this one's a bit plainer than most, yet still fits right in. A nice bonus: the backyard with tables/chairs and 20 rooms that look out on it. Locally, don't miss picturesque little side streets like rue Cremieux. 41-43 ave. Ledru Rollin, 12th arr.; 53-02-30-30, fax 53-02-30-31. Ibis Porte de Clichy 700 AC rooms; bar, restaurant, parking; single $62, double $76-$90. The biggest and newest Ibis in Paris is hidden off the avenue up in the northwest corner of town, not too far from Montmartre. Big with tour groups, the 15-year-old, nine-floor behemoth taken into the fold just last year offers three-star amenities at two-star prices, including several bars and restaurants and a swimming pool and fitness center (though for the latter you pay $25-$55 extra). 163 bis, avenue de Clichy, 17th arr.; 40-25-20-20, fax 40-25-26-00. Ibis Montmartre 326 rooms, nonsmoking/disabled; bar, restaurant; single $64, double $71. Attached to one of Accor's (more upscale) Mercure hotels and wedged between a parking garage and a shopping mall just outside romantic Montmartre, its public spaces are plastered with murals evoking "olde Paris." A good "big hotel" option for folks wanting walkability to the famous artists' quarter, Sacre Cour, the Moulin Rouge, and such. 5 rue Caulaincourt, 18th arr.; 55-30-18-00, fax 55-30-19-18. Ibis Sacre Coeur 68 rooms, nonsmoking; bar, parking; single $55, double $60. A more intimate choice with an excellent location amid the tourist buses and tchotchke shops lining the boulevard just below Sacr, Cour and Montmartre, this nineteenth-century town house boasts nice views of the skyline from some of its ninth-floor rooms. And of course there are the Pigalle porn parlors right down the street, if that's your bag. 100 blvd. Rochechouart, 18th arr.; 46-06-99-17, fax 42-55-42-26. Ibis La Villette 284 rooms, nonsmoking/disabled; bar, restaurant, parking; rooms $46. On a bend in the idyllic Ourq Canal in Paris's extreme northeast, it's funkier looking than most Ibises, with its blues, yellows, and vaguely Deco-looking touches. Why stay way up here? The groovy multiethnic (especially African and Sephardic Jewish) neighborhood and the futuristic Science City, with its unmissable "geode" gleaming like a giant pinball. 31-35 quai de l'Oise, 19th arr.; 40-38-58-00, fax 40-38-04-04. Left Bank Ibis Cambronne Tour Eiffel 523 rooms, nonsmoking; bar, restaurant, parking; single $65, double $72. Just off the cobblestone place Cambronne, eight floors of modern white tile are a little jarring amid gracious nineteenth-century structures. But one of Paree's biggest Ibises is nicely situated not just for Gustave Eiffel's famous phallic symbol (with its new sparkly lights, switched on nightly for ten minutes each hour), but also the Invalides, the Musee d'Orsay, and lots more. 2 rue Cambronne, 15th arr.; 40-61-22-22, fax 40-61-21-21. Ibis Gare Montparnasse 30 AC rooms; nonsmoking/disabled; rooms $78. At the corner of two major tree-lined thoroughfares within sight of the Montparnasse skyscraper, this facade's stripes and mirrored glass stand out among the more traditional architecture of a nabe hopping with businesspeople by day and bar/restaurantgoers by night. Oh, and if you're in the mood for a browse through French Foreign Legion memorabilia, or military doodads dating back to the Battle of the Marne, duck into the surplus store right around the corner. 71 blvd. de Vaugirard, 15th arr.; 43-20-89-12, fax 43-22-77-71. Ibis Maine Montparnasse 102 rooms, nonsmoking/disabled; parking; single $58, double $65. On a small street in a low-key residential area sprinkled with mom-and-pop restaurants and shops, two early-twentieth-century buildings were painted red and beige and turned into one Ibis (a couple of whose top-floor rooms have terraces). The nearby arrondissement town hall is like a smaller version of the imposing Hotel de Ville; two slightly morbid but highly worthwhile sights within striking distance are the catacombs and the Montparnasse Cemetery (say hi to celebs like Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir). 160 rue du Chxteau, 14th arr.; 43-22-00-09, fax 43-20-21-78. Ibis Albesia 264 AC rooms, disabled; bar, restaurant, parking; single $60, double $65. For les shopaholiques (apologies to the Academie Francaise), have we got an Ibis for you: it's just off Rue d'Alesia, crammed with stores both cheap and cher - and you can even snag discontinued haute couture for a fraction of the price. The hotel's big, its standard beige facade tarted up with mirrored glass rising from the flag-adorned entrance. Nearby, don't miss the 1861 St. Pierre de Montrouge church, its interior done in "primitive" Roman style. 49 rue des Plantes, 14th arr.; 40-44-50-51, fax 40-44-53-44. Ibis Brancion "Expo" 71 rooms, some AC, nonsmoking/disabled; bar, parking; rooms $57. Blending in perfectly among the apartment blocks of an outlying neighborhood just inside the p,riph,rique, it's a great choice for joggers and others appreciating a break from the hustle and bustle of central Paris: right across the street is the lovely Parc Brassens, which contains an antique book market and the respected Sylvia Montfort Theater. 105 rue Brancion, 15th arr.; 56-56-62-30, fax 56-56-62-31. Ibis Place d'Italie 58 rooms, nonsmoking/disabled; parking; single $62, double $66. Joining two other two-star hotels on a very peaceful residential street, this six-floor affair fronted by gray tiles, steel, and glass has a whiff of the Bauhaus. The place d'Italie area itself is tres diverse, from the stores (including a mammoth shopping mall) of avenue d'Italie to attractions like the Botanical Garden and a natural history museum. 25 ave. Stephen Pichon, 13th arr.; 44-24-94-85, fax 44-24-20-70. Ibix Italie Tolbiac 60 rooms; nonsmoking/disabled; bar; single $60, double $62. Below place d'Italie and several blocks off bustling avenue d'Italie on a quiet leafy street next to a "Zen boutique," it's convenient to the Quartier Chinois (Chinatown), which though dinkier even than Washington, D.C.'s still has some neat restaurants, shops, and even a temple with an impressive Buddha statue. On a more Christian note, check out nearby St. Anne de la Maison Blanche, with its soaring nave, star-spangled barrel vault, and gorgeous stained glass. 177 rue de Tolbiac, 13th arr.; 45-80-16-60, fax 45-80-95-80. Birds on the wire Before the phone numbers in this article, dial 011-33-1. You can also book or get a directory of properties worldwide at 800/221-4542 in the U.S. or ibishotels.com.

It once housed the dreaded leper colony of Hawaii, which obviously caused tourists to shun and avoid it. But though leprosy was essentially eliminated as a health threat by the development of sulfa drugs in the 1940s, the once-isolated island was slow to overcome its former reputation. In fact, it is still blissfully undeveloped and totally without hotel towers or gaudy shopping malls. On rural, remote Moloka'i, you enjoy a Hawaiian vacation filled with the culture of the islands, moderately priced, and rich with outdoor activities that are either free or cost next to nothing. Less than 70,000 travelers a year make the 20-minute flight from Honolulu to this tiny isle, slightly less than 38 miles by 10 miles in size. In an age of rental jeeps, helicopter tours, and submarine rides, Moloka'i retains the lifestyle and culture of the past. When you step off the plane at Moloka'i's tiny airport, a sign greets you, saying, "Slow down, you're on Moloka'i now." To each other, the population speaks Hawaiian. Not everything on the island is bargain-priced, but with a bit of planning and a decision to focus on free outdoor activities, you can have both a rewarding and affordable vacation. You will spend your days in such noncommercial activities as floating in the warm tropical waters above a rainbow array of exotic fish, or walking through the mist of low-lying clouds into a primeval forest, or venturing back in time at a sacred Hawaiian temple, once used for human sacrifice. Your nonstandard lodgings The most expensive item (outside of your airfare to Hawaii) will be accommodations. But the cost can be less than on any other island if you simply make the decision to stay in nonhotel lodgings. The easiest and quickest way to book accommodations on Moloka'i is to call Karen Buhr, of The Travel Shoppe, 800/657-9112 or 808/553-3671, fax 808/553-3672, e-mail travelshoppe@oldhawaii.com. Her one-stop booking agency handles nearly all the accommodations on Moloka'i (some 400 plus), including all of the budget accommodations. Rates range from privately owned studios in condominiums for $50 a day to bed-and-breakfast units for $75 or two-bedroom vacation homes for $85. Most of the units are at least near the ocean (with a good many right on it) at prices that would be 30 to 50 percent higher on any other Hawaiian island. B&Bs are generally cheapest. A typical example is Ka Hale Mala (808/553-9009, molokai-bnb.com), with four large rooms, private entrance through the garden, and a fully equipped kitchen. The owners generously share pickings from their organic garden and can direct you to all the sights on the island. Ka Hale Mala is priced at just $70 per double (without breakfast) or $80 (with breakfast). There are also low-priced vacation cottages in the scenic East End of Moloka'i. Families looking to get away from it all can escape to a 14,000-acre ranch of pastures and forests, plus a private beach minutes away, at the Country Cottage at Pu'u O Hoku Ranch (808/558-8109, puuohoku.com). The two-bedroom cottage ($125 for two guests, $20 more for each additional person) is surrounded by a tropical landscape and has breathtaking views of rolling hills and the Pacific Ocean, comfortable country furniture, a fully equipped kitchen, two baths, a big living area, and a separate dining room on the enclosed lanai (porch). If you must have the amenities of a hotel, the rustic 45-room Hotel Moloka'i (800/367-5004 or 808/545-3510, castleresorts.com), located on the ocean, just a mile-and-a-half from the main town of Kaunakakai, offers comfortable rooms in a cluster of Polynesian-like huts, with a restaurant, swimming pool, and lounge on site. Rooms start at $78 for two, $58 with an Internet booking. Getting around Your second major cost will be transportation. Unfortunately, since there's no public transportation on the island, bicycling, hiking, or renting a car are the way to go. Car rentals start at $35 a day, from either Island Kine Auto Rental (808/553-5242, e-mail cars@molokai-aloha.com, Budget (808/567-6877), or Dollar (866/434-2226). Bicycles run from $27 a day ($140 a week), from Moloka'i Outdoor Activities, in the lobby of the Hotel Moloka'i, toll-free 877/553-4477, or molokai-outdoors.com. And off you go The best place to begin an island tour is in the main town of Kaunakakai, once an ancient canoe landing, now the main commercial, financial, and recreational center of the island -- all three blocks of it. Kaunakakai looks like something out of an old Hollywood B movie: Western-style storefronts, complete with dusty streets, somnolent dogs, and talkative storekeepers who stop to ask you where you are from and give their opinion on the best places to see. Kaunakakai is literally the geographical center of the island. On one side of town a cactus stands, palms raised, announcing entry to the arid West End with its dramatic contrast of austere rust-colored soil sloping down to the sapphire-blue ocean. On the other side lies a lush tropical jungle, like something out of a Gauguin painting; it marks the beginning of the bay-studded and voluptuous vegetation of the East End. Kaunakakai also is the location of the island's free tennis courts in the Mitchell Pauole Center. Tennis rackets can be rented from Moloka'i Outdoor Activities (see above) starting at $4.95 a day (or $19.95 a week). The West End: Moloka'i's ranch and finest beach A thriving Hawaiian community before Western contact, the West End of the island today is dominated by Moloka'i Ranch (whose ownership of over 60,000 acres includes just about the entire west end). The Ranch mixes a working cattle operation and an ecotourism business (which consists of three luxury "safari"-type campsites and an upscale lodge, plus numerous outdoor activities, ranging from kayaking to horseback-riding). The budget-conscious will want to skip the activities and accommodations of the Moloka'i Ranch and head for one of Hawaii's largest and most dramatic beaches, Papohaku. Nearly three miles long and 100 yards wide (you can spend a day here and never see another soul), the intense beauty of this sandy beach lies in sharp contrast to the muted-beige and rust tones of the tropical desert and the surreal cerulean blue of the sea. Great for beachcombing, picnics, and sunsets year-round, the thunderous surf at Papohaku makes swimming risky during much of the year, except in the summer when the furious ocean calms down to a placid lake. Best of all, a day at the beach is absolutely free. The East End For gentler, swimming-and-snorkeling-friendly beaches, head for the East End. The Kamehameha V Highway, a narrow two-lane country road named after Hawaii's fifth king, meanders along the palm-tree-lined south shore of the island. Before you leave Kaunakakai, pick up groceries (restaurants and eateries are limited on this tiny isle) at Friendly Market Center, 808/553-5595, or at Misaki Grocery and Dry Goods, 808/553-5505. Or stop and get some beach toys from Moloka'i Outdoor Activities (see above), like snorkeling equipment ($7.95 a day or $31.95 a week), kayaks (from $13 an hour), or boogie boards (just $5.95 a day). As you continue eastward along the serpentine country road, notice the rock formations along the shoreline. These are ancient Hawaiian fish ponds, the equivalent of modern fish-farming, practiced by Moloka'i residents several centuries before Captain Cook "discovered" Hawaii. Many of the fish ponds have been restored so the ingenious system once again allows water and nutrients to flow into the pens to fatten up the fish inside. The result: a constant supply of fresh fish. Tours are free; contact the Moloka'i Visitors Association, P.O. Box 960, Kaunakakai, HI 96748, 800/800-6367, fax 808/553-5288, or molokai-hawan.com. A cultural highlight further east is the Ili'ili'opae Heiau, the Shrine of Sacrifice. A dense canopy of vegetation leads from the road up to the charcoal-gray volcanic rock heiau (or sacred temple), which was used both for human sacrifice and as a "university" for training the priests (some called them sorcerers) from other islands. You can visit this archaeological wonder free; contact the Visitors Association (see above) to arrange permission from the property owner, or you can go via horseback through Moloka'i Horse and Wagon Ride, 808/558-8132, for just $40. As you continue down the palm-tree-lined coastal road, numerous little coves with white sand beaches appear. One of the best snorkeling beaches along this coast is Kumimi Beach Park, locally known as Murphy Beach Park. Shaded by tall ironwood trees, which line the powdery white sand beach, this is a particularly good area for a picnic (all the fixings for homemade lunches are available, for under $5, at the Neighborhood Store 'N Counter, located near the 16-mile marker on the East End, 808/558-8498). How to get to Moloka'i There are no direct flights from the continental United States to Moloka'i. You can fly directly to either Honolulu or Kahului, Maui, and then take a commuter airline to Moloka'i. The four airlines that serve Moloka'i are: Moloka'i Air Shuttle (808/545-4988), with the lowest airfares -- around $70 round-trip from Honolulu (however, their Honolulu terminal is a $10 cab ride from the main airline terminal, and the planes are small commuter aircraft); Pacific Wings (888/575-4546, pacificwings.com), $155 round-trip, also a small commuter airplane; Hawaiian Airlines (800/367-5320, www.hawaiianair.com) the only jet service, and Island Air (800/323-3345, alohaair.com), with 37-passenger turboprop planes, both $200 round-trip.

In recent issues of Budget Travel, we've profiled two top college towns - Cambridge (Harvard, MIT) and Amherst (Amherst, Smith, UMass, Mt. Holyoke, Hampshire) - for brainy budget holidays suited to the public at large. Our criteria: a sparkling university atmosphere; extra-low student-level prices for rooms and food; and lots of stimulating activities, performances, and attractions. Now, the series' first foray into the Midwest takes us to southern Wisconsin and the dynamic town of Madison. With a handsome lake-country setting, an active arts scene, and the storied University of Wisconsin (17 Nobel and 23 Pulitzer Prize-winners), Madison indulges both cerebral and cheapskate instincts, even in midsummer when many other university towns go into mothballs. Also the state capital, it's filled with an array of intrigues, accommodations, and eateries that fit a pauper's budget - or at least a student's. And because its college is paid for with tax dollars, many major events, attractions, and even some classes are absolutely free and open to everyone. Upon arrival, your very first stop should be the Greater Madison Convention and Visitors Bureau (615 E. Washington Ave., 800/373-6376, visitmadison.com) for free brochures and maps about museums, restaurants, concerts, and other amusements. Next up is the even more valuable UW-Madison Campus Assistance and Visitor Center, known as "the Red Gym" (716 Langdon St., 608/263-2400, visit.wisc.edu), where you orient yourself with a free campus tour (3 p.m. weekdays, noon weekends) and get a list of free campus events. At most campus buildings and at shops in town, you'll find several free publications listing free or cheap events - always too many for one person to handle. Check The Daily Cardinal, a student paper, for a list of lectures, films, concerts, and discussion groups over the next few days. (Yes, nonstudents can attend most events, usually for free.) One week last October, those included seminars on topics ranging from molecular studies to Spanish Roma, and political lectures from visiting professors and nervy filmmaker Michael Moore. Other free schedules appear in The Badger Herald (another student rag) or Isthmus (Madison's version of New York's The Village Voice). Note, too, that Madison is becoming famous as a breeding ground for comic writing: The Onion, a nationally celebrated mock newspaper (distributed free) originated here, and it also publishes real event schedules. Nice wheels Spend a few minutes in any part of Madison and the city's love affair with bicycles quickly becomes evident. There are miles of lanes dedicated to two-wheel traffic, as well as plenty of bike racks. You can even fill flabby tires for free at the Memorial Union student center (next to the Red Gym). In anything nearing nice weather (be warned that January and February are famously frigid), do as the locals do. Budget Bicycle Center (1230 Regent St., 608/251-8413) rents ten-speeds for $7 per day. Most action in Madison centers on State Street, a one-mile pedestrian mall linking Capitol Square and campus that's lined with pubs, coffee shops, bookstores, and restaurants. Biking is easier than maneuvering by car, and there are plenty of scenic spots to pedal nearby. Since it's situated on a series of hills riding an isthmus between Lakes Mendota and Monona, Madison is blessed with surprising natural beauty. Campus, Capitol, & between The University of Wisconsin's main campus stretches over 930 acres along lovely Lake Mendota. The prettiest spot on campus is probably behind the Memorial Union, where visitors plop down on an extensive outdoor pavilion to enjoy a fine view of the lake and sometimes free music. When colder months come, the action turns to the Rathskellar, a German-style cafeteria/alehouse inside the Union that also hosts free concerts and events (look for posters or ask at the Red Gym). Among other campus-affiliated spots free and open to the public are the Elvehjem Museum of Art (800 University Ave., 608/263-2246) and its 15,500 exhibits (from 2300 B.C. to modern times, including an Andy Warhol print of Marilyn Monroe); the Geology Museum (1215 W. Dayton St., 608/262-2399), where you can eye the skeleton of a 33-foot-long duck-billed dinosaur; and the Arboretum (1207 Seminole Hwy., 608/263-7888), a 1,240-acre preserve that's heaven for hiking and cross-country skiing. Campus libraries are also free for visitors. You can even sit in on classes, even in summer. Have in mind what kind of class you'd like to attend, and someone at the Red Gym will find a match. In bigger classes (which tend to be straightforward lectures like Biology 101), no one blinks when a stranger shows up. For small seminars (the more disciplined stuff, usually), it's a good idea to get an OK ahead of time. If you have something specific in mind, don't barge into a classroom unannounced, but ask the Visitor Center to contact the department that interests you. There are plenty of free amusements around the State Capitol Building, starting with the impressive brass, glass, and Italian marble building itself, which boasts America's only granite dome (six free tours daily; 608/266-0382). Across from the Capitol, you can visit the Wisconsin Historical Museum (30 N. Carroll St., 608/264-6555) for a brush-up on America's frontier-era history. The Madison Art Center (211 State St., 608/257-0158) and the Henry Vilas Zoo (702 S. Randall Ave., 608/266-4732) don't cost a dime either. As for live music, you'll find free concerts most Wednesday nights on Capitol Square throughout the summer. During the school year, $8 (seniors/students $6) will get you into one of the Faculty Concert Series shows at the Mills Concert Hall (455 N. Park St., 608/263-9485). If you're more of a drama fan, the Bartell Theatre (113 E. Mifflin St., 608/294-0740) plays host to regional troupes and locally produced works. Tickets normally range from $5 to $15, and you can often see rehearsal performances for free. Madison prides itself on its many literary associations, with nearly 20 bookstores in the heart of the isthmus and a handful of best-selling authors who call the city home (among them The Deep End of the Ocean scribe Jacquelyn Mitchard). Canterbury Booksellers (315 W. Gorham St., 608/258-8899) has free readings by authors every week. Lodgings Madison hotel rates fluctuate with the weather (high on summer weekends, cheaper in deep winter), but be advised that every bed in town can be booked solid months ahead for certain events. Watch out particularly for graduation (mid-May) and home football games (schedule: uwbadgers.com), when you may pay at least 25 percent more than usual, if you find availability at all. Between graduation and mid-August, visitors can not only pretend they're students, but also live as the students do. When students vacate for the summer, privately owned dormitory-style properties open to short-term renters. Two such facilities are The Towers (502 N. Frances St., 608/257-0701), offering suites with private bath for $45 per night-four people can fit into two sets of bunk-beds; and The Langdon (126 Langdon St., 608/257-8841), charging a flat $28 per night for a dorm room with two single beds. The cheapest year-round digs in town can be found just two blocks from the Capitol at the HI-Madison Hostel (141 S. Butler St., 608/441-0144, hiayh.org). A big, slightly grungy old house, it has bunk-bed dorm rooms for $19 per bed ($16 for Hostelling International members) and private rooms with private bath sleeping up to four for a paltry $38 per night ($35 members). The few chain hotels downtown regularly run over $100 per night, but two independently owned properties offer reasonable rates and good locations. The Ivy Inn (2355 University Ave., 877/489-4661) has clean, comfortable rooms for singles starting at $71; doubles $81. The University Inn (441 N. Frances St., 608/285-8040) sits at the corner of State Street and has rates that range from $52 for two in winter, or $99 on summer weekends. Venture a few miles away from downtown Madison for wider (and slightly cheaper) options. Seven miles east of the Capitol (near I-90 and I-94), you'll find nearly a dozen chain hotels that start at about $40 per night (such as Red Roof Inn, 4830 Hayes Rd., 608/241-1787). Even some apartment complexes rent on a weekly or nightly basis, particularly in the summer. Countryside Apartments (2801 Coventry Trail, 608/271-0101) rents furnished one-bedrooms for $79 per night or $350 per week. Madison Meals This may be the heartland, but the dining selection is neither flat nor boring. Madison even has two restaurants specializing in Himalayan cuisine - on the same block (Himal Chuli and Chautara, at 318 and 334 State St., respectively). For Chicago-style bratwurst ($2.50) and Midwestern frat boy atmosphere, try State Street Brats (603 State St.) Stop by Vientiane Palace (151 W. Gorham) for $4.95 lunches laden with portions of spicy Lao-Thai food big enough for two. If you make your way down State Street and still don't find anything, cross Lake Street onto campus (near Library Mall) for the many food stands where $3 to $5 buys you a heaping plate of Cuban, East African, Jamaican, or Chinese grub. All-you-can-eat campus cafeterias are also accessible, and simply charge visitors double ($6 to $8) the regular student prices. Before you leave, you've got to taste (and hear) the Wisconsin specialty - cheese curds - clumps of cheese eaten before they're pressed into blocks (get some for $2 per bag at any market or at House of Wisconsin Cheese, 107 State St., 608/255-5204). At their freshest, cheese curds squeak audibly when you chew. So in between those free lectures and concerts, pick up a few and by all means, squeak away.