Mesmerizing Mumbai

Standing outside the village of Romuna, I bear the traditional sevu sevu (offering): a bundle of kava or yaqona root (pulverized and mixed with water, both look and taste like mud to outsiders but are nectar to Fijians). The beverage is an integral ingredient of any ceremony-indeed, of daily life - and a means of bonding with newcomers. A local, Simon, whom I'd met at my hotel, acts as my mana (advocate), initiating a ritualistic dialogue with the chief in the main bure (typical hut, with bamboo walls, woven mats, and classic - and increasingly rare-cathedral thatching). Cups of kava are served from a bowl beautifully carved from tanoa, a native dark wood. I clap once, drink, clap three times again according to custom, then watch a meke, a joyous folkloric song and dance accompanied by the percussive lali (a hollowed tree trunk). I'm asked to join in, and an unlikely, sweatily vigorous line dance ensues. Cost of the experience for our group of six: US$10 for the pound of kava (the price had just doubled, since herbal pharmaceutical companies are now exporting it hand over fist as a stress reliever). That tradition of hospitality prevails throughout Fiji, an archipelago of more than 300 islands (only one third inhabited), covering 426,000 square miles. A century-old British colony that became independent in 1970, its culture has remained intact, which helps account for its affordability. TV didn't arrive until 1990 (and McDonald's in 1996), so the islands attracted either backpackers or fabulously wealthy people to a few get-away-from-it-all private resorts. Traditional chiefs still own most of the land, and international companies must enter into a legal agreement with a local resident - meaning fewer sprawling deluxe properties. Instead, cheaper facilities - many appealing to cost-conscious divers-sprang up, in marked contrast to destinations like Hawaii and Tahiti. The ten-hour flight from Los Angeles discourages many Americans, leaving Fiji more to rambunctious Aussies and restrained young Japanese on low-cost package deals. This hospitality also made Fiji legendary among the international grunge set, some of whom took advantage of the Fijian concept of kere kere, or shared property: what's mine is yours. If when visiting a village you express interest, the chief may invite you to attend a lovo feast (tubers, fish, and meats swaddled in banana leaves and cooked in an underground pit) or even to stay with a family, sleeping on a bark-cloth mattress stuffed with dried coconut fibers. "Going native" remains an honored form of travel, and amazingly cheap: many locals still feel uncomfortable accepting money, because the entire village is an extended home and you're their guest. Be careful admiring something, as many Fijians will feel obligated to give it to you; rather than offering cash for your stay, buy a T-shirt, groceries, or ask the family what they would like. But you can just as easily "rough it" in contemporary or colonial-era hotels for as little as US$15 (one greenback is worth roughly two Fiji dollars; prices below are U.S.) or stay in your own fully equipped modern if basic home for $25-right on or near a beach. Dorm-style digs run as little as $5 per person ($12 including meals). Although the people who arrived on these shores first are Melanesian, approximately half the population is East Indian (Hindu and Moslem). Their ancestors were brought in as forced labor for the sugarcane fields in the nineteenth century. Political turmoil, as the Indians demanded greater self-determination, scared off many travelers in the 1980s - another reason Fiji remains low on the tourism radar for Americans-but a new constitution has fostered peace and stability. Many towns have elaborate Hindu temples and onion-domed mosques with minarets, exotic contrasts to typical Fijian bures. That diversity is also reflected in the cuisine: curry shacks are common (as are inexpensive Chinese and pizza restaurants). At these lowest-cost eateries, full meals average $4-$8; Fijian dishes are slightly more expensive, though worth sampling, especially kokoda (seafood marinated in coconut, lime, and coriander) and wahoo steamed in lolo (coconut cream). Veni, Vidi, Viti Levu The easiest way to vacation in Fiji is to stay on the main island of Viti Levu. Roughly 10,000 square miles, it provides a microcosm of the archipelago's appeal: pristine beaches along the Coral Coast, the teeming colonial capital of Suva, a jumping-off point for exploring nearby islands on day trips, and a range of eco-adventures from trekking in mountains that tower to 5,000 feet to white-water kayaking down surprisingly fierce rivers to diving the renowned Beqa Lagoon with its currents, dramatic drop-offs, and riotously colored soft corals. The centrally located Coral Coast is an ideal base, from which you can visit Suva for a day, then overnight on the historic island of Ovalau (a $27 one-way flight from Suva). International flights arrive at the Nadi (pronounced "NAN-dee") airport, usually in the middle of the night. At the airport's tiny tourist office, helpful staffers provide recommendations, even make calls; brochure racks climb like ivy up the walls, containing all conceivable information on lodging, sight-seeing, dining, and car rentals (including a few coupons). Regrettably, the town of Nadi is a bustling, congested, grubby bazaar of handicraft shops, Fijian fast-food joints, and markets; the main "sight" is its extraordinary multicolor temple. Still, it's best to decompress at an airport motel, then get a fresh start the next day. The best value is the New Nadi Bay Hotel (723-599, fax 720-092)*, with 24 snug rooms and apartments decorated in soft pastels; doubles with fans are $34 ($42 with air-conditioning). The area does boast attractions (and comparatively pricier beachfront lodgings for the severely jet-lagged) worth visiting before leaving. Fortunately, Viti Levu is easy to negotiate. The island is ringed by one main drag, called King's Road in the north, Queen's in the south. The southern shoreline runs from Nadi past the Coral Coast to Suva. The northern coast is unspoiled but far less accessible (roads are frequently rained out); though there are numerous hotel bargains, they're generally shabbier than their southern counterparts, and restaurants scarcer. The cheapest way to navigate the southern coast is via bus, which is also a perfect introduction to the friendly locals (expect village invitations and an endearing curiosity manifested in often ingenuously personal questions). You could circumnavigate Viti Levu for $5; service is slow but regular throughout the day and evening hours. Every village has a bus stop (though you can hail the glorified safari vans from the highway); Nadi and Suva have mini-depots. Rental cars offer more freedom and can go as low as $10 per day plus 17 per mile for a small car without air-conditioning, up to $35 for a Toyota Corolla. Gas is expensive-approximately $3 a gallon-figure $30 for the Nadi/Suva round trip. A valid U.S. drivers' license is required and driving is on the left. The usual names - Avis, Hertz, Budget - have Nadi and Suva airport offices. Singatoka/Coral Coast, Viti Levu: Sandy, low-cost catches Some of Viti Levu's finest beaches lie southeast of Nadi, accessible only via dirt tracks from Queens Road, including the gorgeous Natadola ("nah-tahn-DOH-lah"), where tour operators offer day trips, including lunch and horseback riding, for about $25. Buses are infrequent; a rental car is advisable. The next major town, Singatoka ("sing-a-TOH-kah"), marks the beginning of the Coral Coast, an almost unbroken scimitar of palm-shadowed sand running to Pacific Harbour, a modern development with an 18-hole golf course, resorts, condos, a cultural center, and little genuine appeal. Several properties and eateries cluster across the street from the sand in the next village, Korotogo ("koh-roh-TONG-oh"), whose beach could be better maintained. The best buy is the Casablanca Hotel (520-600, fax 520-616), halfheartedly Moorish and sitting atop a hill overlooking the sea amid two acres of overgrown gardens. Immaculate if narrow efficiencies-tiled, fully equipped, and modern, with local touches like bark-cloth wall hangings-are $29. Waratah Lodge (500-278) is composed of three A-frames in Christmas colors crawling with hibiscus and bougainvillea; $30 duplexes with fans and aging kitchens sleep six to nine. Both have pools, BBQs, and bike rentals. A half block away, Le Caf, (520-877) and Sinbad Pizzahouse (520-600) both offer unusual pizzas as well as curries, grilled chicken, and seafood for $3-$8. This area is more memorable for its side attractions. The fertile, meandering Singatoka Valley is nicknamed the "Salad Bowl" of Fiji; take a cruise along the Singatoka River under a canopy of lush, sun-filtered vegetation or haggle with a spearfisherman to take you out on a traditional bilibili, a bamboo raft. The villages along the river are renowned for their pottery, fashioned from the rich red earth, while the tawny, 100-foot-high Sigatoka Sand Dunes comprise Fiji's first national park. The beach widens as you approach Suva, with excellent offshore snorkeling. Tubukula Beach Bungalows (500-097, fax 340-236) provides clean if spartan lodgings, from dorms ($7.25) to fully equipped multi-bedroom units ($28-$44, depending on size and beach proximity), as well as activities and a mini-mart. This is one of the properties, ranging from beach bungalows to air-conditioned hotels, endorsed by the Fiji For Less organization (340-211, fax 340-236; or in the U.S. fax 310/362-8493; fiji4less.com), affiliated with several backpacker and hosteling associations. Gorgeous landscaping and beach; warm Aussie owners; lively clientele; free bikes, bush walks, and canoes; and cheap meals ($1.50 breakfast, $1.50-$4 buffet and full meals like lasagna or tuna fettucine) are the lure of Beach House (530-500, fax 530-450). Lodgings are adequate, with cramped, shared-bath loft doubles $19, dorms $8.25, and camping $5. For a splurge, the local-style bures of intimate yet full-service Tambua Sands Beach Resort (500-399, fax 520-265) are cheerful, with fridges and ceiling fans; oceanview bures are $45 (two meals daily cost $11 per person extra). The grounds and beach are lovely; the restaurant-decorated with local crafts-offers nightly entertainment; and activities range from coconut husking (free) to horseback riding ($4.50). Suva, Viti Levu: A really capital mishmash Fiji's steamy capital of Suva (population 120,000) is a bizarre mix of colonial and contemporary, of traffic jams and tranquil gardens, with the appealingly tatty air of an old-time sailor's port of call and ethnic crossroads (the disco and clubs lined up on the main drag tell it all: Bourbon and Blues, O'Reillys, Bad Dog Cafe, Traps). Graceful Victorian government edifices alternate with cinder-block office buildings and hotels. It's not necessarily worth an overnight, but you can take in the sights during the day and catch the 5 p.m. flight for Ovalau. Some might enjoy checking out Suva's slightly seedy but colorful nightlife, then grabbing the 7:45 a.m. early bird or a ferry/cargo boat. Patterson Brothers Shipping (315-644) is reliable and comfortable; most boats have VCRs and refreshments, and one-way fares start at $12 (they run car ferries, too). Stop by the bustling public market, with produce from around the islands. Then visit the excellent Fiji Museum, nestled in the impeccably landscaped Thurston Gardens. It provides a superb glimpse into the origins and culture of Fiji, from a great oceangoing war canoe to traditional native costumes and more gruesome historic relics (Fijians were considered the world's fiercest cannibals a mere century ago). There are also galleries celebrating Indian culture, rotating crafts exhibits, and artisans engaged in demonstrations. Prices are lower and quality higher for authentic crafts at actual villages. But you'll find the widest selection in the bustling Handicraft Centre (really just a place to gather aggressive pushcart peddlers) by the waterfront. Bargaining is expected, but beware "sword sellers," who will ask your name, then instantly carve it on a wooden sword or tanoa bowl and expect you to buy it. Also, even some genuine pieces are often emblazoned "FIJI." Local restaurants run the gamut, but the best are Asian; try Sichuan Pavilion (corner of Pier and Thompson streets, 314-865), elegant in lacquer and mirrors but quite reasonable, with entrees starting at $4. To lay down your head, the South Seas Private Hotel (312-296, fax 340-236) is a turn-of-the-century wooden building in a peaceful residential area within walking distance of city center; plain rooms with fans and private baths are $19. Ovalau: Old-time offshore charm Just a few miles and a hundred years offshore from Suva lies Ovalau, site of Fiji's first capital, Levuka. An official candidate for designation as UNESCO World Heritage Site in honor of its cultural and historic importance, it's an indescribably charming town of peeling clapboard houses and crooked sidewalks. The oldest (1850s) hotel and drinking club in the South Pacific - and straight out of a Somerset Maugham novel - the Royal Hotel (440-024, fax 440-174) has doubles with bath, ceiling fan, enclosed patio, uneven hardwood floors, and four-poster or brass beds for $14-$17. Nearby, the dilapidated but atmospheric Ovalau Club (440-507), founded in 1904, sports yellowed photos of royal coronations and weddings, and nautical banners from around the world. Beach Street, Levuka's restored waterfront, is now practically a promenade, where kids play soccer with coconut husks while women sell fruit under banyan trees circled by squawking mynah birds. Also here are three marvelous restaurants. Caf, Levuka (no phone) prepares full dinners like papaya prawns or chili and garlic pork for $5; breakfasts and lunches are even less. Kim's (440-059) is harshly lit but gussied up with Chinese New Year's dragon wall hangings and Christmas lights year-round, and serves up sumptuous Chinese/Fijian/Indian/European buffets Sunday nights for $5.50, all you can eat. The "gourmet" spot is Whale's Tale (440-235), with a nautical theme (driftwood, whale photos, dried sea fans, thatch-and-bamboo bar) and Fiji-tinged Continental fare-$6.50 for a three-course dinner (delicious chicken in kumquat sauce with garlic bread). The owner's Australian husband, Arnold Ditrich, is the island's self-professed kava "dealer"; a bowl is always being emptied at the back table. Ovalau's few beaches are tiny and black-sand (one reason it lacks a tourism infrastructure), but it's surrounded by unspoiled keys and pockmarked with underwater caves and mangrove channels. Sea kayaking is popular, as is mountain biking, through Ovalau Transport and Tours (440-611, fax 440-405, ecotoursfiji.com), which also organizes "Tea and Talanoa" chats with delightfully eccentric locals and expats. Wrapping up in Nadi Since return American flights depart at night, you can explore the Nadi area before leaving. Just north is the Garden of the Sleeping Giant, Raymond Burr's astonishing terraced gardens showcasing lily ponds and over 2,000 varieties of orchid from around the world (buses stop there and at Visisei village, reputed landing place of the first Fijians, for roughly 50[cents]). Trekkers can experience the Abaca Village & Koroyanitu National Heritage Park (666-644; $6 includes guide and round-trip transport from Lautoka), a tropical rain forest with glittering 100-foot waterfalls framed by black volcanic mountains and lava outcroppings. Abaca ("am-BAH-tha") is one of a few isolated villages that host a work/stay program. For $15, you hike with a guide, perform typical tasks like tilling fields or beating laundry on rocks in a stream, then eat and sleep with a family. One caveat: the ride up the rutted dirt road in a cushionless safari van alone qualifies as adventure travel. Many travelers prefer ending (or starting) their trip on the water. The best nearby beach accommodations are at Club Fiji (702-189, fax 702-324), which attracts a youthful international crowd to its 12 acres and 24 traditional thatched bures with hardwood floors, ceiling fans, fridges, verandahs, private baths, and seashell color schemes. Beachfront lodgings cost $44, but identical "oceanview" bures offer a sliver of sea view for $35; dorm rooms ($5.50 per person) are further from the beach. On premises are full water sports (free), a dive shop, and an excellent restaurant - with everything from tacos to pizzas, starting at $4. For a more Robinson Crusoe feel, you can also stay on one of the Mamanucas, flat coral keys tossed casually into the Pacific off Nadi like a luminous strand of pearls. The best value is Ratu Kini's (721-959), owned by the chief of Mana island; its basic thatched bures with bath run $44-$56, bountiful buffet meals included. If you enjoy your Fijian experience, you can explore the other main islands (Kadavu, Taveuni, Vanua Levu), all remarkably lush, mountainous, with world-famous dive sites, and even less developed for tourism. Indeed, that bundle of kava costs more these days than many basic digs. Further Fiji facts Contact the Fiji Visitors Bureau (5777 W. Century Blvd., Ste. 220, Los Angeles, CA 90045; 800/932-3454, 310/568-1616; bulafiji.com). Another helpful Web site is City.Net Fiji, at city.net.countries.fiji. Fiji flights Air Pacific (800/227-4446) offers direct flights from Los Angeles, starting at $699 round-trip. The two domestic airlines, Air Fiji (877/AIR-FIJI, airfiji.net) and Sunflower Airlines (800/294-4864), offer dependable, comprehensive service between Nadi and Suva and most of the islands on various smaller aircraft; tickets start at $25 one-way; ask about special off-peak rates during the week.

Reid Bramblett and Jason Cochran answered your questions about traveling to Thailand Tuesday, July 6, at noon EST. Reid Bramblett holds the somewhat dubious distinction of having authored both The Complete Idiot's Travel Guide to Europe and Europe for Dummies. His love affair with Europe began at age 11 when his family moved to Rome and proceeded to spend much of the next two years exploring Europe in a hippie-orange VW campervan. Reid experienced a budget continent of campgrounds and picnics with the locals, though mostly he remembers having to sleep in the VW's moldy pop-top. After a brief stint as an editorial assistant at a travel publisher, began writing European guidebooks for Frommer's, Dorling Kindersley's Eyewitness, Idiot's, and For Dummies. He joined the Budget Travel editorial staff in 2002. He champions such underdog Irish causes as real ales, traditional Celtic music, Irish cheeses, hurling (that's a Gaelic sport, not what happens after too many whiskeys), pub grub, and tramping around bogs and wind-bitten downs in search of ancient tombs. Jason Cochran is Senior Editor of Budget Travel magazine. In addition to writing for publications such as Entertainment Weekly, The Village Voice, and Arena, he wrote questions for the first season of ABC's Who Wants to Be a Millionaire. He recently spent two years backpacking around the world, visiting six continents and over 40 countries. A current resident of New York City, he has also lived in Chicago, Atlanta, Key West, and Cape Town, South Africa. _______________________ Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Hello! We're both online and primed to answer your every question about the beauty and appeal of Thailand. We'll get started right away: _______________________ Towson, MD: Hello to you both...Can you list the top five absolute MUST SEES in Thailand? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Jason here. I've gotten this question many times. Naturally, it's a matter of taste, but here are my top five, which hit many of the bases and span the country: Bangkok: Wat Phra Kaeo and The Grand Palace: This luxurious, over-the-top complex of royal pavilions (check out those fantastic gilded sculptures!) is home of the famous Emerald Buddha (actually made of jade) and once the stomping grounds of the King of Siam, fictionalized by Yul Brynner. Nearby is Wat Pho, which houses the enormous Reclining Buddha. The huts on the grounds are the best place to get a cheap traditional Thai massage. The price? About $5 for an hour. Chiang Mai: In northern Thailand, a city of monasteries, busy markets, and tourist-friendly courses in everything from Thai cooking to Thai massage. It's also the gateway to the jungles of Hill Country. The islands: Each island suits a different taste, from the youth-oriented party isle of Ko Phagnan and Ko Samui to the more upscale, top-drawer resorts of Phuket. Sands are soft, waters are warm. (We sort through the identity of each of these islands in Budget Travel's July/August issue, on sale now.) Sukhothai: The ruins of a city that until the 15th century served as the first capital of Siam, during the peak of its power in the region. Like Angkor Wat, it lay undisturbed in the jungle until the nineteenth century, but unlike its Cambodian counterprt, it's now well-kept, landscaped, and easy for travelers of any age or physical ability to navigate. It gives a peek into Thailand's long and varied history. Kanchanaburi: Toss in a little recent history at the site of the infamous Bridge on the River Kwai, where the Japanese drove Allied soliders and hundreds of thousands of Asians into slavery and starvation to create a short-lived railway line. Lest you get too depressed at the painful wartime memories, the area is beautiful, with caves, raging rivers, and lush jungle national parks nearby. Tourists who come for the bridge, turn around, and return to Bangkok are really missing something. _______________________ Cabin John, MD: Reid, Have you seen or heard of $500 RT fares to Thailand (from NYC)? Someone told me they saw that, but could not remember where. Seems like an urban myth, but I thought I'd ask. Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: That would be a great fare, but not one that'll come along very often. (We saw a lot of those types of tickets last year, when the specter of SARS, war in Iraq, and general vague terrorism fears were keeping people away from travel in general and Asia in particular in droves.) We've had a lot of questions about how to find cheap tickets or any ongoing sales, so here's a blanket answer. You have to do your homework. Don't just run a query through Expedia, Orbitz, and Travelocity. Double-check those with sidestep.com (only for PC users), and at cheapflights.com. Check out the sales pages at all the major US airlines -- but don't forget to surf over to the Asian airlines as well, such as Cathay Pacific, Singapore Air, and (naturally) Thai Airways. Right now, Cathay Pacific is selling roundtrip from Sept through Nov for $636 from LA or San Francisco, $806 from New York's JFK (book by July 31). You should be able to find fares in the $600 to $700 range from Los Angeles, about $100 more from New York (it'll be a bit more difficult to match these up with airfare to LA or NYC from somewhere else in the US, but major airlines all have intertwining alliances that should help). _______________________ Kennewick, WA: Is the second half of April really a horrible time to go weather-wise? What should we expect at that time of the year versus, say mid-January? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: In April, expect intense heat and humidity. I'm not being facetious -- Bangkok in April, right before the rainy season kicks in, can be oppressive to even those used to tropical climates, and the searing glare of the sun can turn an idle sightseeing stroll into a grueling trudge. It's still do-able (I myself have tramped around the country at that time of year -- boy, what an exotic way to lose weight!), but for more reasonable temperatures, December and January are the better months. (Jason) _______________________ Los Angeles, CA: My friend and I are interested in traveling to Thailand with very little itinerary. For example, not booking hotels or ground transportation in advance. We basically want to fly in, go where the wind takes us, and fly out. We're extremely adventurous and flexible, and believe this attitude will add to our experience. Others think we're being irresponsible. Any thoughts or suggestions? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Jason here: Yes -- I think that's a terrific idea. Frankly, most of the international budget travelers who are touring Thailand right now (Australian, British, Kiwi, etc.) are doing so on the fly. Since Thailand's tourist industry caters so heavily to independent travelers, it's enormously easy to pick up ideas and change your direction. When it comes to travel, Thailand is a very informal country. Bus tickets can be purchased minutes before departure, plane tickets can be had hours before takeoff, and at every train station, proprietors of guesthouses will forever be clamoring for your custom. Everywhere you stay (particularly in tourist hubs like Khao San Road in Bangkok), you'll hear tips and suggestions from your fellow travelers ("Don't go there -- it's not worth it" or "Don't miss this little town we found!") that will enrich your travels. My first trip to Thailand was completely unplanned. I arranged a plane ticket to land me in Bangkok and another to fly me out of Singapore a little over a month later. I filled my time once I arrived and I never got crowded out of something I wanted to see. If you're as adventurous as you claim, I dare say that you may even be a little surprised by how well-trod Thailand has become and how easy it is to tour. Die-hard travelers, in fact, report a little annoyance with how easy Thailand is these days. _______________________ Boston, MA: I know Thailand's a very popular destination these days: what are the most over-rated or over-touristed sights I should avoid? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Jason: Some people may want to smack me for saying this, but I am not a big fan of some of the markets held around the country, particularly the night markets in Chiang Mai and in Bangkok's Patpong. They are decidedly touristy. Visitors usually come away with overpriced Chinese-made trinkets or ridiculous souvenirs that, once they get home, will never see the light of day. The one great thing about many of the markets, though, is that they serve inexpensive and fantastic food. If you go to a market, go to eat. Reid: The Bridge on the River Kwai. It's got a fantastic story behind it, but it's just an iron bridge over a river. It's not about the beauty of Thailand. It can be a moving experience, but if you're choosing it over a true antiquity such as Ayutthaya or Sukhothai, you're selling yourself short. _______________________ Camp Verde, AZ: Is the language going to pose problems ? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Not really. English has become the world's common tongue, and you'll find it spoken (or broken, which is usually good enough) just about everywhere -- especially on the tourist circuit. Outside of America, most people are used to interacting with people who don't speak their languages. Most countries are small and most languages are spoken only locally, so people like the Thai know how to communicate with foreigners without using a common tongue. International tourism is big business in Thailand, so language barriers don't present much of a problem. You'll be fine. _______________________ New York, NY: I am getting married in Thailand in January. We are going on our honeymoon in the islands then. What 3 islands would you recommend for a romantic honeymoon? Also, do you know a good place to find elaborate Thai flatware in Bangkok? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: First off, congratulations! Thailand can be a terribly romantic spot, and January is a great time to go, weather-wise. Picking an island is a pretty personal thing, and depends on what sorts of things and what kind of scene you are into. You can get the gist of five of them in my article in this month's BT magazine, which is also available on this site today (msnbc.msn.com/id/5023648). For utter romance? Definitely skip Phuket, which is overbuilt and overrun with tourists. Ko Samui has a well-developed infrastructure, and plenty of sightseeing opportunities as well, but for some it's getting a little too commercial (nothing like Phuket yet, though). I'd stay steer clear of Ko Phangan as well, unless you guys are ravers (every full moon, the beach at Hat Rin becomes a raging party of booze and designer drugs with thousands of 20-somethings jumping to trance beats; happens again on the half-moon). Ko Phi Phi is getting a bit crowded, but is still stunningly beautiful. If all you're looking for is a lot of sun, sand, and time to spend alone together, my pick would be Ko Lanta. It retains that feel of being all by yourself out on a tropical Asian isle, utterly relaxing, wither perfect surf and temperatures. A true dream destination, and the sum of what the Thai isles are supposed to be all about. As for flatware in Bangkok, I'm afraid I haven't a clue. One place I'd suggest to start is at the government-run Narayana Phand, a kind of department store of traditional Thai crafts at 127 Rajadamri Road (between Petchaburi Rd. and Ploenchit Rd., just down from the Grand Hyatt Erawan). They have the highest quality everything on 3-4 floors. I don't recall seeing flatware (probably because I wasn't looking), but there was loads of tableware and other ceramics (along with silks, carved wood, statues, musical instruments, and a hundred other artisan items), so it's a good bet. (Funny aside: my girlfriend and I actually ate with some gorgeous flatware in Le Grand Bleu restaurant on Ko Phi Phi -- forks and spoons so nice we both actually commented on them [not normally our sort of dinner table conversation]. Another couple in the restaurant clearly felt the same way, as we overheard them asking the waiter where the utensils came from and then interrupted their meal to bustle up the street to that shop. However, once we actually started eating with the things, they turned out to be incredibly conductive of heat -- uncomfortable to hold in our hands, and burning our lips. I guess the lesson is: buyer beware.) _______________________ Fort Worth, TX: My husband and I will be in Bangkok the first week of October. We have 2 days of sightseeing planned for the city, but have a 3rd day open for an excursion outside of Bangkok. Ayutthaya has been offered as a possible excursion, and I've heard it's worth seeing, but we are more interested in flying from Bangkok to Cambodia to see Angkor Wat. Would it be worth it for us to try to see as much as possible of Angkor Wat in one day, or are we better off going to Ayutthaya, since it is closer to Bangkok and takes less time than Angkor Wat? Thank you. Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: While it is possible to fly from Bangkok to Angor Wat and back in one day, you'd only get a few hours in the complex -- a complex which covers 300 square kilometers! There's a reason tickets are only sold for three-day and seven-day entry periods; it's impossible to do the site any sort of justice in less time. Save it for next trip, and spend the extra day exploring Ayutthaya, as you said, or just hanging around Bangkok. Two days is already barely long enough for such a fascinating city. Ride a long boat through the khlong (canals) that thread through the city. Wander the residential neighborhood of northern Banglamphu where folks still live in wooden houses and play out their lives in courtyards and narrow alleys. Return to Wat Po for an hour-long, full-body Thai massage. Go shopping for traditional crafts in the Siam Square area. Browse the markets. Visit temples. Cruise the river on the public ferries. Bangkok hides a thousand delights; you just have to take the time to discover them. _______________________ Southfield, MI: Hi, is Thailand safe for a young woman to travel alone? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: As safe as you could hope for. Violent crime is quite rare in Thailand, as the local police can be quite unforgiving with lawbreakers. It tends to keep people in check. In fact, by our State Department's own admission, Bangkok's crime rate is lower than that of many American cities. Tricksters and petty thieves are more common, so thwart them with the usual precautions: Don't dally with strangers, don't accept food or drink from someone you don't know, be streetwise, and so on. Besides, there are so many independent travelers in Thailand right now, you may even find it a struggle to stay solo. It's incredibly easy to link up with other travelers, make friends, and travel as a team. And should something terrible happen, health care is amazingly inexpensive -- just a few bucks for an X-ray or a cast. It makes you wonder why we have to pay so much for the same procedures back home. _______________________ San Francisco, CA: Is Thailand safe for Americans? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: For the same reasons as above, yes. The Thai are friendly people and they have no beef with the American style of life. In fact, they're adopting it more and more. Thai shopping malls are full of multiplexes and Dairy Queens and one-hour photo shops, and every Thai teenager has a flashy cell phone glued to his or her hand. There are a few poorer areas that are experiencing some domestic problems: along the Burmese border, for example, and in the deep south of the country near the Malaysian border, but these problems have been sporadic and they have nothing to do with American tourists. (Thailand, by the way has sent -- and lost -- men in Iraq as part of the American-led coalition.) _______________________ Vernon, CT: I am headed to Thailand for 2 weeks and I have $1,500 to spend on food, hotels, etc. Do you think this is enough? Thanks. Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Thailand is still wonderfully, exhilaratingly cheap. Simple hotel rooms in Bangkok and beach bungalows on the islands start at $5 to $10 -- maybe as much as $10 to $20 for really nice mid-scale places. Full meals start at under $1, and usually clock in around $2 to $5 (at really, really fancy places you may spend $25 per person on massive, gut-busting feasts). So yeah, you got plenty! _______________________ Edison, NJ: I am going to honeymoon in Thailand next summer (2005) for 2 to 4 weeks. Is this a bad season to go in terms of the weather? Is July better or worse than August? We are looking to stay at remote beach locations, as well as some towns and cities. What are your top 3 (or 5)? Any other suggestions? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Jason here: I answered a Top Five query a few entries back, but to follow on the weather-related portion of your question: Thankfully, you won't find the "monsoon" season in Thailand to be anything like the rainy season in, say, India, where life feels like a ceaseless deluge. Think of Thailand's rainy season as a relative of the rainy season in Florida, which coincidentally happens around the same period. You'll have sunny, warm days periodically interrupted with the odd heavy cloudburst and incidental tropical storm, but in general, you'll still be able to travel around the country and see what you want. Just be prepared for unexpected, warm passing downpours. If you want nearly guaranteed fine weather, go from December to February. As I also mentioned above, March to May can be insidiously hot and humid. If beach-going is part of your plan, be aware that on the southern peninsula, the weather is markedly different between the east and west coasts. On the west coast, the best time to visit is November to April, and on the east coast, the best period is May to October. The coasts aren't very far from each other, but their weather systems are worlds apart. _______________________ Floral Park, NY: I loved your article on Thailand. I am planning on going the end of August, but I heard it is monsoon season. Is this a completely bad time for me to go? I would be going to Phuket and a couple islands you wrote about. Help! Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Yeah, that is the height of Monsoon Season. That doesn't mean it'll be raining constantly or every day -- more like sudden downpours each afternoon, that they clear off to sunny again. It gets really humid, though. If you can put off the trip until November or December, so much the better. _______________________ New York, NY: I'm off to Bangkok and the southern islands in a couple weeks and wanted to know what I should pack. I don't want to lug around a lot of luggage, I was hoping to bring 2 backpacks or even one big one. Do you think this is enough? Oh, I'm going for a little over 2 weeks. Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: A single backpack is ample. Thailand is a hot country, so you won't want or need much clothing. A couple of bathing suits, a few T-shirts and pairs of shorts, and a good pair of walking sandals should do you. Don't bother with make-up or elaborate evening wear; I can't foresee an occasion when you'll need to dress up -- the Thai beach towns are gloriously informal. You can buy anything else you need, from batteries to sunglasses, for next to nothing once you're there. But save a little space for the one article of clothing that will be indispensable for you: a brightly colored sarong. You can buy one for a few bucks anywhere you go, since they're on sale positively everywhere. They're the Swiss Army Knife of Thai vacation fashion; they function as skirts, they stand in for beach towels (and they dry quickly), they become headdresses when you come out of the shower, etc. The other item you'll buy there will be a ubiquitous roll-up straw mat that you will sit upon when you're on the sand. They also cost a few bucks, and one will last you two weeks. Light linen or cotton pants are also available for a few dollars everywhere -- for those times you need to cover your legs, such as in a temple. They'll be cheaply made, but they'll certainly last two weeks. _______________________ Los Angeles, CA: What's the cheapest way to get to Thailand? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: In addition to airfare sales like the stellar one we touted above, we're big fans of the cheap air-hotel packages offered by a number of companies these days. They get you discounted airfare plus a handful of nights in a hotel, and the whole package doesn't cost much more than airfare alone probably would if you bought it on your own. For example, In September and October, Go-Today.com will fly you to Bangkok and put you up in a three-star hotel for five nights for $679 double from Los Angeles. Compare that price to the rate I just got on Delta from Orbitz (the airport code for Bangkok is BKK, by the way): $678 in late September. So for $1 more, you get five nights in a hotel and a transfer from the airport in Bangkok -- not a bad deal! OctopusTravelPackages.com is selling five-night packages in four- and five-star hotels from September to November for $959 double. Most of the time, you can extend your return flight date and stick around for a while, traveling independently, but those first five nights in a paid-for hotel really help a traveler get their feet on the ground in a new country. It's an ideal set-up. _______________________ Mountain Home, ID: My husband and I are going to Thailand in mid-September. We made our travel arrangements with a travel company, Djoser. What can you tell me about this company? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Djoser (pronouned "JOE-zer"), a company that originated in the Netherlands but now has an American office, has quite a following with the tourists who have discovered it. It specializes in escorted tours (as opposed to the air-hotel packages noted earlier in our chat). Budget Travel has received many positive notices about its guides and the company's organization, so we would say it's an excellent option. If you end up going with Djoser, please send us a note and let us know what you thought of it so that we may continue to keep tabs on the quality of its tours. _______________________ Burlington, NC: Just how bad are the mosquitoes on these islands and are they seasonal? Also, is there ever any surf on Thai beaches? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: First, the little biters. Mosquitoes are a bit worse throughout Thailand during and just after the rainy season (June through October), but they are a nuisance all year round -- though the risk of catching Dengue Fever and Japanese B encephalitis from one of them is greater during the rainy season. Frustratingly, the breed of mosquitoes that's out by day can carry dengue; those out by night are the type to carry malaria, so it's no like you can trick them. It's really more a time-of-day, issue than a time-of-year one. Mosquitoes are out feeding in the early morning and again in the late afternoon/early evening. In the end, it's easiest just to plan to be indoors during these swarming hours. Also, be sure to wear long sleeves and pants as often as possible (spray them with permethrin for extra protection; you can get it at www.rei.com), bring plenty of DEET repellant for your skin, keep windows and doors closed during those morning and evening hours, and treat that mosquito netting around your bed with respect. That said, the islands are actually infinitely better than the interior when it comes to flying blood-suckers, if for no other reason than the steady light breeze off the water keeps them at bay (seriously; you can be sitting at a beachside restaurant, completely bug-free, then walk just one block inland to where the buildings cut off the breeze, and all of a sudden it's feeding time.) Speaking of beaches, no, there's no surf to speak of in Thailand; a bit during monsoon season, but really that's more of some ripples you could conceivably ride a board on, not something you'd go out of your way to do. _______________________ Hopewell Junction, NY: I will be traveling to Thailand in September. Do I have to worry about chicken virus? Should I take any precautions, like maybe not going? Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: You must be referring to the headline-making avian flu. Relax -- there is no evidence that you can catch it from another human. In order to get it, you'd have to spend an awful lot of time fraternizing with chickens. As long as your accommodations aren't in a henhouse, you'll be fine. Neither the World Health Organization nor the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention -- two of the planet's most trigger-happy groups when it comes to issues of contagious disease -- have deemed the avian flu worrysome enough to issue any travel warnings. It would be a shame for you to cancel your Thai adventure because the press has failed to adequately portray the nature of the disease. For official assurances, refer to the State Department's fact sheet on the topic: travel.state.gov/avian_flu_factsheet.html _______________________ Cloverdale, CA: Hello Reid & Jason, I am going to Thailand at the end of this month for 5 months on a study abroad program at Thammasat University in Bangkok. I've read different articles about appropriate clothing for women but wondered if you can give me any insight into this. I was told that I need to bring along a "uniform" of a white shirt and a black skirt. I know you are a couple of guys, but can you tell me what would be appropriate in skirt length. Also, I have a tongue piercing. How is that looked upon? Should I remove it before I go? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: We think it's great you are being so conscious of social norms. Kudos. More people should travel as respectfully as you. Even as guys, we know to recommend that you cover as much skin as possible. At the beach, fine, wear a bikini. But in Bankgok, spend your days in pants or, when in school with that uniform code, a demure skirt down to at least mid-calf. It'd be best if you just ask the school how long a skirt is appropriate (for all we know, ankle-length is the rule; or maybe it's a ultraprogressive, miniskirt type place -- though we doubt it). Short-sleeve blouses are OK (a concession to how hot it is over there). As for the tongue stud, you're on your own. It'll definitely set you apart as one of those wacky foreigners. Your tongue is going to be punished enough by the nuclear-hot spices in the food over there, so maybe you'll want to take it out now and let the hole heal before subjecting it to Thai cooking! have a great time; we're jealous. _______________________ Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Well, that's it! We had a great time. Sorry we couldn't get to every question, but we hope this helped. Sawat dii, khap. (That's goodbye...also hello, which is a nice sentiment) _______________________

Despite India's vast size and incredible complexity of culture, when most people think of traveling there, the first thing that comes to mind is usually the Taj Mahal. After all, what slideshow of a trip to India would be complete without at least one shot of you and your traveling companion(s) in front of one of the most impressive works of architecture in the world? You have to do it. But depending on who you talk to, seeing the Taj has its drawbacks because it requires visiting the red-headed stepchild of Indian cities: Agra. Agra's bad rep comes from the oft-stated perception that the city has little to offer other than the Taj, and that it is a loud, polluted, frustrating place teeming with aggressive touts. Well, there's some truth to this. Agra does have its, shall we say, infrastructure problems, and the touts can be, well, they ARE, an annoyance. It is not the most pleasant city to visit in India (an understatement), but there is also a great deal available to the adventuresome traveler who is willing to look past Agra's shortcomings. First things first. The Taj Mahal is wickedly impressive. Even if you do blow through all those rolls of film while you are there, and even if you project your slideshow on the side of the Hollywood Bowl, nothing will compare with actually being there. I was just there. I know. I'd seen the slideshows, read the travel guides, saw a documentary or two. I thought I was ready. But then I rounded the corner, passed through the arch of the Darwaza or main gateway where visitors enter, shouldered past several slow-footed tourists, and then looming there before me, aglow in the cool azure blaze of early dusk was one of the most impressive man-made sights I've ever laid eyes on. Yes, it is THAT amazing. First of all, the scale of the complex is far grander than I imagined it would be, and the elegant simplicity in which it is laid out gives you great admiration for the architect's restraint. There is no trace of the gaudiness here so common to other famous monuments. The key is to catch the Taj at several different times of day to observe its mood swings as the white marble seems to transubstantiate with the changing light. Shadows slowly creep over the swollen domes creating a dual effect that somehow makes the building seem alive. You will use plenty of film here so bring a few extra rolls. By the way a video camera will cost you extra ($5) at the entrance, but it's probably worth it. So, assume you are going to Agra and visiting the Taj Mahal. Assume you will pay the Taj entry fee ($16) and that you will spend several rolls of film on and around the grounds. Fun? Sure it is. But now what do you do? Agra fort Despite its reputation for being a one trick pony, Agra has a deep and robust history. For more than two centuries it was the capitol of the Mughal empire, and the seat of power for two of the greatest Mughal leaders, Akbar the Great and Shah Jahan. As a result, Agra is home to some of the finest examples of Mughal architecture in India, of which the Taj is simply the most famous. But among those Mughal structures that also impress is the Agra Fort. A World Heritage Site since 1983, this is the first place to head. Stretching for more than a mile along the west bank of the Yamuna River, and just a mile or so from the Taj Mahal, the Agra Fort makes an easy side trip before or after visiting the Taj. Touring the fort will take several hours, but it is worth the effort. There is a $5 entrance fee at the main gate, with an additional 25 rupee (50 cents) per camera fee for a video camera. Made from world-famous sandstone known as "Agra Red" that is quarried from over 200 miles away, the Agra Fort seems to smolder under the mid-day sun. The wall around the fort stretches off in each direction encircling the fort complex like massive forearms. Fronted by a monstrous gate called the Amar Singh Pol where you enter, the fort is at the center of several of India's most famous tales of betrayal and intrigue. Construction of the fort was started by Akbar the Great in 1565 and lasted almost 20 years. The fort served as a stronghold for the empire, and was improved upon by Akbar's grandson the infamous Shah Jahan, who added several elaborate structures and who, by the way, built the Taj Mahal. For over a century, the fort served as the main administration center for war campaigns launched from Agra. The Fort's usefulness did not end there (cue sinister music). When Shah Jahan became ill, a brutal war of succession began between his sons. In the end, Jahan's third son, Aurangzeb, seized power in 1658 and declared himself emperor. In a final act of filial defiance, he put his father under house arrest in the fort, allegedly for corruption, but more likely for having not favored Aurangzeb's succession. Inside the fort, you walk along the spacious lawn, to Jehangir's Mahal or palace. There is a feeling of calm security here, a feeling I imagine was shared by the fort's long ago residents, as it must have seemed impossible for anyone to breach the fort's formidable defenses. For me this feeling was comically accentuated by the fort's monkeys who patrol the high walks like sentinels. The palace was built by Akbar as a residence for his son Jehangir. It is the largest private residence in the fort, elegantly blending Hindu and Central Asian architectural styles. Pass the white marble Khas Mahal, or Private Palace, and laze around, savoring a moment in the cool shade. Then keep walking and climb the tower called the Musamman Burj. A white marble gazebo gleams beneath the sun. This is where Shah Jahan was imprisoned for the last seven years of his life and where, from the intricately carved opening, you can share the same view as he had across the Yamuna River to his architectural masterpiece, the Taj Mahal. One quick detour before you're done that is well worth it . . . if not imperative. Leave the fort through the main gate and circle around the massive wall to the south. Duck under the bobbed wired fence surrounding the fort and cross the street to the river. It will only take a few moments of kicking through the white sands along the river before you see it. There, behind the water buffalo bathing their massive shanks in green swirling pools, and shimmering in the distance like a mirage, is the backside Taj Mahal. This is a view most visitors to Agra never see. Akabar's mausoleum So with Agra Fort under your belt, now it's time to people watch and grab a delicious vegetarian puri-thali ($1) at the Chiman Lai Puri Wallah, just outside the fort's gates. The touts will descend on you here (as everywhere), but the best strategy is to completely ignore them. Merely making eye contact can induce them to hang around. Next, hop in a motor rickshaw ($2-3) and head out a few miles northwest of town to the Sikandra, or Akbar's Tomb. Remember Akbar, the Mughal ruler who started construction of the Agra Fort? When he died in 1605, he'd already started construction of his tomb . . . but barely. However, his son, Jahangir, finished the tomb and moved his dad's body there for good. The tomb is a marvel of Mughal architecture that blends Islamic, Hindu, Buddhist, Jain and Christian motifs into a poly-religious pleasing whole. The soaring minarets and luminous domes sit astride a broad green courtyard populated by troops of curious grey langur monkeys and spotted deer. As soon as you get to the tomb and enter the grounds through the aptly-named Gateway of Magnificence, you'll see why this is a requisite stop in Agra. Not only is the complex remarkable for its beauty and architecture, but as an escape from the bustle and the bleating taxis of Agra, this is a slice of heaven. The key here is to find a spot in the shade, take out a book or magazine, and make like a Mughal five centuries ago, admiring the intricate mosaic work around you and indulging in the delicious breezes that waft through over the grass. Then continue across the palm-lined courtyard towards the tomb building itself. Take off your shoes and stoop through dark entryway into the high-ceilinged chamber where Akbar's sarcophagus sits in the middle of the cold stone floor. Chances are a turbaned mullah will demonstrate the unusual acoustics of the tomb with a sonorous chant that will make you swear you've just gone back five hundred years. Ending the day with a view Chances are, it's late in the afternoon by now. So as the sun creeps behind the horizon, make a bee-line for the bar in the Oberoi Hotel. Located near the East Gate of the Taj Mahal, this is one of the best places in Agra to hang out, have a drink and see the Taj in all its dusky splendor. You might have to act like you belong, so leave your Tevas back in your hotel, but it's the way to go because the view of the Taj Mahal from here in the best in the city. It will be the perfect way to cap off a full day in Agra that should leave you feeling more fulfilled, more certain that despite the bad rep the city has, you've just done it right. Getting there The Taj Mahal is located in the city of Agra, in the Indian state of Utter Pradesh, about 125 miles southeast of Delhi, the Indian capitol, the city from which many visitors to India often arrive. While there are daily half-hour flights to Agra from Delhi (as well as from most other large Indian cities such as Mumbai and Bangalore), probably the best, or at least most interesting, way to arrive is by train. Train travel in India is remarkably cheap. Arriving from Delhi by air-conditioned car on the Taj Express (2-3 hours) will run you only about $10 a person. Not only is the scenery gorgeous, as the train chugs through miles of breathtaking Indian farmland where you will see more shades of green than seems earthly possible, but the train ride itself is one of the most comfortable in India. To do it right, leave Delhi early in the morning, secure a window seat, and be sure to grab a cup of hot chai from the ever-present Chai-wallahs who ply the train with their metal canisters (oh, when you notice the absence of trash bins and wonder to yourself where you're supposed to throw the empty plastic cup . . . well, you toss it out the window, otherwise one of the wallahs will pick it up and reuse it . . . the ultimate choice between public health and the environment).

The big reason skiing costs so much is pretty obvious. Chairlifts, gondolas, and trams that transport skiers and snowboarders up the hill cost millions of dollars to build and pile up huge electricity bills. These costs are passed along to riders, most obviously in the form of a lift pass (and less obviously in the form of rip-off $8 hamburgers inside the lodge). One possibility for getting around the expense of a lift ticket is also rather obvious: get your butt up the hill on your own, via hiking boots, snowshoes, or cross-country or telemark skis. Sounds exhausting, huh? And perhaps a little dangerous? It can be both. Some folks should be rightly scared off from attempting such madness. Others have given backcountry skiing one try, and ever since happily fork over their cash for lift passes. But skiing in the backcountry--basically any mountain slope away from the standard ski resort--is beloved by thousands of hardcore skiers and outdoor enthusiasts. Not only is a backcountry skier rewarded with miles of untouched powder and remote mountain vistas only seen in ski mags or Warren Miller movies, but usually the costs of an off-piste adventure are usually minimal, and sometimes totally free. Some mountain areas where backcountry skiing is popular even have huts and lodges for overnight adventures. Conditions are usually pretty spartan, but the nightly bill is often under $30. Backcountry basics Finding a spot for backcountry skiing isn't as simple as locating a snow-covered slope. First off, backcountry skiing is not allowed everywhere. Many ski resorts will not let you hike their trails and ski down (in-bounds or out-of-bounds) without a pass of some sort. Plus, avalanches are part of the normal winter cycle in many mountain environments, especially out West. Some research is required to make sure your adventure is fun, the snow is good, and conditions are safe. The best place to start research is at "Off-Piste: The Backcountry Adventure Journal," published monthly in the winter. This rag, written and edited by backcountry diehards, can be found in convenience stores, ski lodges, and coffee shops in most ski towns. It's also got a fine Web site, offpistemag.com/, with features on great backcountry spots, an online forum for Q&A's with fellow enthusiasts, lists of upcoming events, free demos, avalanche training sessions, and other news, plus a link for 20 or so books focused on backcountry adventure. After reading up on the basics, do some soul-searching. An honest review of your physical conditioning is necessary too (perhaps this requires an outsider's opinion). Are you up to the task of carting yourself and your gear up a mountain in the snow? Would you rather the comforts of chairlifts, ski patrollers, and happy hour at the end of the day? Do you want a daytime trip only, or are you up for an overnighter? No matter where your personality fits in here, you should be in good shape, and have a goodly amount of experience in both skiing and hiking before giving the backcountry a try. Do-it-yourself locales Some locales are easy enough for a first-time backcountry skier to give it a shot, while at others it's a good idea to go only with a seasoned veteran or a professional guide. Some trails would only be fun for snowshoers and telemark or cross-country skiers, while other steep slopes are only good for expert downhill skiers or snowboarders. Just know what you're getting into before heading out into the woods. One of the first popular backcountry spots in the U.S. is Tuckerman Ravine, a bowl-shaped face above the tree line on New Hampshire's Mount Washington (the Northeast's tallest peak). Skiers have been coming here since the 1930's, and hundreds still come each weekend in late April and early May, when there's still plenty of snow and days are relatively warm. It's a fun scene, especially on sunny spring days--groups of friends picnic between runs or build jumps at the bottom of the slope. Loads of East Coast people pick Tuckerman's as their first backcountry adventure, but it isn't exactly an easy day. First off, there's an uphill hike from the parking lot, which takes around three hours, depending on pace and conditions (which can be muddy in the spring, but I've seen people do it in sneakers). After the grueling hike (you'll be carrying skis or a snowboard, plus boots and other gear in your backpack), some are too tired climb the headwall to actually go skiing. Also, the skiing here is tough--it's a seriously steep descent (if this was a resort, it would be probably be a double black diamond). But if you're in good shape and an expert skier, a day at Tuckerman Ravine is a blast. It is simply a "must" for any East Coast skiers who considers themselves hardcore. And the cost for a day's skiing at Tuckerman? $0. You will have to pay to stay in the area overnight of course, but there are plenty of affordable B&B's and motels in nearby North Conway, New Hampshire. Go to mountwashingtonvalley.org/ for a list of options. Find out about the limited camping and hut facilities located a short hike from Tuckerman Ravine at tuckerman.org/. Another good source of info on Tuckerman's, including its annual triathlon, at friendsoftuckerman.org/. The Appalachian Mountain Club (outdoors.org/) also operates a few lodges and huts in the Mount Washington area, starting in the neighborhood of $20 a night. Big backcountry adventures The West is where truly epic backcountry trips can be had. It's also where avalanches are more likely (they're almost unheard of in the East), so do some studying before heading up into the mountains. An avalanche training course couldn't hurt. Wherever there is fresh powder and an inclined slope, chances are some nutty kid has tried skiing it. But that doesn't mean you should do the same. Finding the best backcountry spots can be difficult--some locals protect their favorite places just as a fisherman might be reluctant to tell of a hidden nook where he knows the bass are biting. There are some fairly well-known places, however, where the snow is usually sensational, conditions are usually safe, and the crowds still haven't arrived. In many cases, there are even huts or lodges in the area, where $20 or $30 pays for a roof over your head. Skiers head to the backcountry to get away from the crowds, but it's a good idea to only go out where you'll see the occasional human face should something go amiss. The various backcountry lodges and hut systems are good places to get your feet wet (or at least, the outsides of your waterproof boots wet). In many instances, day trips are possible, so you can skip the cost of a hut overnight. You may still have to pay a nominal fee of $1 to $5 for access to the trails. Here's a quick run-down of some possibilities out West: Sierra Club Ski Huts: a dozen remote lodgings spread about in the mountains of California, usually with bunk facilities, charging $10 to $30 a night. Web site: sierraclub.org/outings/lodges 10th Mountain Division Hut Association: 29 huts in the Colorado Rockies, usually a few-mile hike or ski away from the nearest road, with 350 miles of skiable trails, starting at $25 a night. Web: huts.org/. The Alpine Club of Canada: an association of 20 backcountry huts in Western Canada popular among skiers, snowboarders, climbers, and mountaineers, charging about US$7 to $20 a night. On the Web: alpineclubofcanada.ca/. Sun Valley Trekking: a group of huts and yurts (large, durable circle-shaped tents) in the backcountry near Sun Valley, Idaho, with rates starting at $30 a night. Web site: svtrek.com/. Wallowa Alpine Huts: an Oregon-based outfit that offers guides, all meals, gear transport, and backcountry hut lodgings, starting at a little over $100 per day. On the Web: wallowahuts.com/.