Fiji

By Jordan Simon
June 4, 2005
The Fiji archipelago has it all: windsurfing, sailing, ocean kayaking, whitewater rafting, or simple basking in the glorious sun

Standing outside the village of Romuna, I bear the traditional sevu sevu (offering): a bundle of kava or yaqona root (pulverized and mixed with water, both look and taste like mud to outsiders but are nectar to Fijians). The beverage is an integral ingredient of any ceremony-indeed, of daily life - and a means of bonding with newcomers. A local, Simon, whom I'd met at my hotel, acts as my mana (advocate), initiating a ritualistic dialogue with the chief in the main bure (typical hut, with bamboo walls, woven mats, and classic - and increasingly rare-cathedral thatching). Cups of kava are served from a bowl beautifully carved from tanoa, a native dark wood. I clap once, drink, clap three times again according to custom, then watch a meke, a joyous folkloric song and dance accompanied by the percussive lali (a hollowed tree trunk). I'm asked to join in, and an unlikely, sweatily vigorous line dance ensues. Cost of the experience for our group of six: US$10 for the pound of kava (the price had just doubled, since herbal pharmaceutical companies are now exporting it hand over fist as a stress reliever). That tradition of hospitality prevails throughout Fiji, an archipelago of more than 300 islands (only one third inhabited), covering 426,000 square miles. A century-old British colony that became independent in 1970, its culture has remained intact, which helps account for its affordability. TV didn't arrive until 1990 (and McDonald's in 1996), so the islands attracted either backpackers or fabulously wealthy people to a few get-away-from-it-all private resorts. Traditional chiefs still own most of the land, and international companies must enter into a legal agreement with a local resident - meaning fewer sprawling deluxe properties. Instead, cheaper facilities - many appealing to cost-conscious divers-sprang up, in marked contrast to destinations like Hawaii and Tahiti. The ten-hour flight from Los Angeles discourages many Americans, leaving Fiji more to rambunctious Aussies and restrained young Japanese on low-cost package deals.

This hospitality also made Fiji legendary among the international grunge set, some of whom took advantage of the Fijian concept of kere kere, or shared property: what's mine is yours. If when visiting a village you express interest, the chief may invite you to attend a lovo feast (tubers, fish, and meats swaddled in banana leaves and cooked in an underground pit) or even to stay with a family, sleeping on a bark-cloth mattress stuffed with dried coconut fibers. "Going native" remains an honored form of travel, and amazingly cheap: many locals still feel uncomfortable accepting money, because the entire village is an extended home and you're their guest. Be careful admiring something, as many Fijians will feel obligated to give it to you; rather than offering cash for your stay, buy a T-shirt, groceries, or ask the family what they would like. But you can just as easily "rough it" in contemporary or colonial-era hotels for as little as US$15 (one greenback is worth roughly two Fiji dollars; prices below are U.S.) or stay in your own fully equipped modern if basic home for $25-right on or near a beach. Dorm-style digs run as little as $5 per person ($12 including meals).

Although the people who arrived on these shores first are Melanesian, approximately half the population is East Indian (Hindu and Moslem). Their ancestors were brought in as forced labor for the sugarcane fields in the nineteenth century. Political turmoil, as the Indians demanded greater self-determination, scared off many travelers in the 1980s - another reason Fiji remains low on the tourism radar for Americans-but a new constitution has fostered peace and stability. Many towns have elaborate Hindu temples and onion-domed mosques with minarets, exotic contrasts to typical Fijian bures. That diversity is also reflected in the cuisine: curry shacks are common (as are inexpensive Chinese and pizza restaurants). At these lowest-cost eateries, full meals average $4-$8; Fijian dishes are slightly more expensive, though worth sampling, especially kokoda (seafood marinated in coconut, lime, and coriander) and wahoo steamed in lolo (coconut cream).

Veni, Vidi, Viti Levu

The easiest way to vacation in Fiji is to stay on the main island of Viti Levu. Roughly 10,000 square miles, it provides a microcosm of the archipelago's appeal: pristine beaches along the Coral Coast, the teeming colonial capital of Suva, a jumping-off point for exploring nearby islands on day trips, and a range of eco-adventures from trekking in mountains that tower to 5,000 feet to white-water kayaking down surprisingly fierce rivers to diving the renowned Beqa Lagoon with its currents, dramatic drop-offs, and riotously colored soft corals.

The centrally located Coral Coast is an ideal base, from which you can visit Suva for a day, then overnight on the historic island of Ovalau (a $27 one-way flight from Suva). International flights arrive at the Nadi (pronounced "NAN-dee") airport, usually in the middle of the night. At the airport's tiny tourist office, helpful staffers provide recommendations, even make calls; brochure racks climb like ivy up the walls, containing all conceivable information on lodging, sight-seeing, dining, and car rentals (including a few coupons). Regrettably, the town of Nadi is a bustling, congested, grubby bazaar of handicraft shops, Fijian fast-food joints, and markets; the main "sight" is its extraordinary multicolor temple. Still, it's best to decompress at an airport motel, then get a fresh start the next day. The best value is the New Nadi Bay Hotel (723-599, fax 720-092)*, with 24 snug rooms and apartments decorated in soft pastels; doubles with fans are $34 ($42 with air-conditioning). The area does boast attractions (and comparatively pricier beachfront lodgings for the severely jet-lagged) worth visiting before leaving.

Fortunately, Viti Levu is easy to negotiate. The island is ringed by one main drag, called King's Road in the north, Queen's in the south. The southern shoreline runs from Nadi past the Coral Coast to Suva. The northern coast is unspoiled but far less accessible (roads are frequently rained out); though there are numerous hotel bargains, they're generally shabbier than their southern counterparts, and restaurants scarcer. The cheapest way to navigate the southern coast is via bus, which is also a perfect introduction to the friendly locals (expect village invitations and an endearing curiosity manifested in often ingenuously personal questions). You could circumnavigate Viti Levu for $5; service is slow but regular throughout the day and evening hours. Every village has a bus stop (though you can hail the glorified safari vans from the highway); Nadi and Suva have mini-depots. Rental cars offer more freedom and can go as low as $10 per day plus 17 per mile for a small car without air-conditioning, up to $35 for a Toyota Corolla. Gas is expensive-approximately $3 a gallon-figure $30 for the Nadi/Suva round trip. A valid U.S. drivers' license is required and driving is on the left. The usual names - Avis, Hertz, Budget - have Nadi and Suva airport offices.

Singatoka/Coral Coast, Viti Levu: Sandy, low-cost catches

Some of Viti Levu's finest beaches lie southeast of Nadi, accessible only via dirt tracks from Queens Road, including the gorgeous Natadola ("nah-tahn-DOH-lah"), where tour operators offer day trips, including lunch and horseback riding, for about $25. Buses are infrequent; a rental car is advisable. The next major town, Singatoka ("sing-a-TOH-kah"), marks the beginning of the Coral Coast, an almost unbroken scimitar of palm-shadowed sand running to Pacific Harbour, a modern development with an 18-hole golf course, resorts, condos, a cultural center, and little genuine appeal.

Several properties and eateries cluster across the street from the sand in the next village, Korotogo ("koh-roh-TONG-oh"), whose beach could be better maintained. The best buy is the Casablanca Hotel (520-600, fax 520-616), halfheartedly Moorish and sitting atop a hill overlooking the sea amid two acres of overgrown gardens. Immaculate if narrow efficiencies-tiled, fully equipped, and modern, with local touches like bark-cloth wall hangings-are $29. Waratah Lodge (500-278) is composed of three A-frames in Christmas colors crawling with hibiscus and bougainvillea; $30 duplexes with fans and aging kitchens sleep six to nine. Both have pools, BBQs, and bike rentals. A half block away, Le Caf, (520-877) and Sinbad Pizzahouse (520-600) both offer unusual pizzas as well as curries, grilled chicken, and seafood for $3-$8.

This area is more memorable for its side attractions. The fertile, meandering Singatoka Valley is nicknamed the "Salad Bowl" of Fiji; take a cruise along the Singatoka River under a canopy of lush, sun-filtered vegetation or haggle with a spearfisherman to take you out on a traditional bilibili, a bamboo raft. The villages along the river are renowned for their pottery, fashioned from the rich red earth, while the tawny, 100-foot-high Sigatoka Sand Dunes comprise Fiji's first national park.

The beach widens as you approach Suva, with excellent offshore snorkeling. Tubukula Beach Bungalows (500-097, fax 340-236) provides clean if spartan lodgings, from dorms ($7.25) to fully equipped multi-bedroom units ($28-$44, depending on size and beach proximity), as well as activities and a mini-mart. This is one of the properties, ranging from beach bungalows to air-conditioned hotels, endorsed by the Fiji For Less organization (340-211, fax 340-236; or in the U.S. fax 310/362-8493; fiji4less.com), affiliated with several backpacker and hosteling associations.

Gorgeous landscaping and beach; warm Aussie owners; lively clientele; free bikes, bush walks, and canoes; and cheap meals ($1.50 breakfast, $1.50-$4 buffet and full meals like lasagna or tuna fettucine) are the lure of Beach House (530-500, fax 530-450). Lodgings are adequate, with cramped, shared-bath loft doubles $19, dorms $8.25, and camping $5. For a splurge, the local-style bures of intimate yet full-service Tambua Sands Beach Resort (500-399, fax 520-265) are cheerful, with fridges and ceiling fans; oceanview bures are $45 (two meals daily cost $11 per person extra). The grounds and beach are lovely; the restaurant-decorated with local crafts-offers nightly entertainment; and activities range from coconut husking (free) to horseback riding ($4.50).

Suva, Viti Levu: A really capital mishmash

Fiji's steamy capital of Suva (population 120,000) is a bizarre mix of colonial and contemporary, of traffic jams and tranquil gardens, with the appealingly tatty air of an old-time sailor's port of call and ethnic crossroads (the disco and clubs lined up on the main drag tell it all: Bourbon and Blues, O'Reillys, Bad Dog Cafe, Traps). Graceful Victorian government edifices alternate with cinder-block office buildings and hotels. It's not necessarily worth an overnight, but you can take in the sights during the day and catch the 5 p.m. flight for Ovalau. Some might enjoy checking out Suva's slightly seedy but colorful nightlife, then grabbing the 7:45 a.m. early bird or a ferry/cargo boat. Patterson Brothers Shipping (315-644) is reliable and comfortable; most boats have VCRs and refreshments, and one-way fares start at $12 (they run car ferries, too).

Stop by the bustling public market, with produce from around the islands. Then visit the excellent Fiji Museum, nestled in the impeccably landscaped Thurston Gardens. It provides a superb glimpse into the origins and culture of Fiji, from a great oceangoing war canoe to traditional native costumes and more gruesome historic relics (Fijians were considered the world's fiercest cannibals a mere century ago). There are also galleries celebrating Indian culture, rotating crafts exhibits, and artisans engaged in demonstrations.

Prices are lower and quality higher for authentic crafts at actual villages. But you'll find the widest selection in the bustling Handicraft Centre (really just a place to gather aggressive pushcart peddlers) by the waterfront. Bargaining is expected, but beware "sword sellers," who will ask your name, then instantly carve it on a wooden sword or tanoa bowl and expect you to buy it. Also, even some genuine pieces are often emblazoned "FIJI."

Local restaurants run the gamut, but the best are Asian; try Sichuan Pavilion (corner of Pier and Thompson streets, 314-865), elegant in lacquer and mirrors but quite reasonable, with entrees starting at $4. To lay down your head, the South Seas Private Hotel (312-296, fax 340-236) is a turn-of-the-century wooden building in a peaceful residential area within walking distance of city center; plain rooms with fans and private baths are $19.

Ovalau: Old-time offshore charm

Just a few miles and a hundred years offshore from Suva lies Ovalau, site of Fiji's first capital, Levuka. An official candidate for designation as UNESCO World Heritage Site in honor of its cultural and historic importance, it's an indescribably charming town of peeling clapboard houses and crooked sidewalks. The oldest (1850s) hotel and drinking club in the South Pacific - and straight out of a Somerset Maugham novel - the Royal Hotel (440-024, fax 440-174) has doubles with bath, ceiling fan, enclosed patio, uneven hardwood floors, and four-poster or brass beds for $14-$17. Nearby, the dilapidated but atmospheric Ovalau Club (440-507), founded in 1904, sports yellowed photos of royal coronations and weddings, and nautical banners from around the world.

Beach Street, Levuka's restored waterfront, is now practically a promenade, where kids play soccer with coconut husks while women sell fruit under banyan trees circled by squawking mynah birds. Also here are three marvelous restaurants. Caf, Levuka (no phone) prepares full dinners like papaya prawns or chili and garlic pork for $5; breakfasts and lunches are even less. Kim's (440-059) is harshly lit but gussied up with Chinese New Year's dragon wall hangings and Christmas lights year-round, and serves up sumptuous Chinese/Fijian/Indian/European buffets Sunday nights for $5.50, all you can eat. The "gourmet" spot is Whale's Tale (440-235), with a nautical theme (driftwood, whale photos, dried sea fans, thatch-and-bamboo bar) and Fiji-tinged Continental fare-$6.50 for a three-course dinner (delicious chicken in kumquat sauce with garlic bread). The owner's Australian husband, Arnold Ditrich, is the island's self-professed kava "dealer"; a bowl is always being emptied at the back table.

Ovalau's few beaches are tiny and black-sand (one reason it lacks a tourism infrastructure), but it's surrounded by unspoiled keys and pockmarked with underwater caves and mangrove channels. Sea kayaking is popular, as is mountain biking, through Ovalau Transport and Tours (440-611, fax 440-405, ecotoursfiji.com), which also organizes "Tea and Talanoa" chats with delightfully eccentric locals and expats.

Wrapping up in Nadi

Since return American flights depart at night, you can explore the Nadi area before leaving. Just north is the Garden of the Sleeping Giant, Raymond Burr's astonishing terraced gardens showcasing lily ponds and over 2,000 varieties of orchid from around the world (buses stop there and at Visisei village, reputed landing place of the first Fijians, for roughly 50[cents]). Trekkers can experience the Abaca Village & Koroyanitu National Heritage Park (666-644; $6 includes guide and round-trip transport from Lautoka), a tropical rain forest with glittering 100-foot waterfalls framed by black volcanic mountains and lava outcroppings. Abaca ("am-BAH-tha") is one of a few isolated villages that host a work/stay program. For $15, you hike with a guide, perform typical tasks like tilling fields or beating laundry on rocks in a stream, then eat and sleep with a family. One caveat: the ride up the rutted dirt road in a cushionless safari van alone qualifies as adventure travel.

Many travelers prefer ending (or starting) their trip on the water. The best nearby beach accommodations are at Club Fiji (702-189, fax 702-324), which attracts a youthful international crowd to its 12 acres and 24 traditional thatched bures with hardwood floors, ceiling fans, fridges, verandahs, private baths, and seashell color schemes. Beachfront lodgings cost $44, but identical "oceanview" bures offer a sliver of sea view for $35; dorm rooms ($5.50 per person) are further from the beach. On premises are full water sports (free), a dive shop, and an excellent restaurant - with everything from tacos to pizzas, starting at $4. For a more Robinson Crusoe feel, you can also stay on one of the Mamanucas, flat coral keys tossed casually into the Pacific off Nadi like a luminous strand of pearls. The best value is Ratu Kini's (721-959), owned by the chief of Mana island; its basic thatched bures with bath run $44-$56, bountiful buffet meals included.

If you enjoy your Fijian experience, you can explore the other main islands (Kadavu, Taveuni, Vanua Levu), all remarkably lush, mountainous, with world-famous dive sites, and even less developed for tourism. Indeed, that bundle of kava costs more these days than many basic digs.

Further Fiji facts

Contact the Fiji Visitors Bureau (5777 W. Century Blvd., Ste. 220, Los Angeles, CA 90045; 800/932-3454, 310/568-1616; bulafiji.com). Another helpful Web site is City.Net Fiji, at city.net.countries.fiji.

Fiji flights

Air Pacific (800/227-4446) offers direct flights from Los Angeles, starting at $699 round-trip. The two domestic airlines, Air Fiji (877/AIR-FIJI, airfiji.net) and Sunflower Airlines (800/294-4864), offer dependable, comprehensive service between Nadi and Suva and most of the islands on various smaller aircraft; tickets start at $25 one-way; ask about special off-peak rates during the week.

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Backcountry Skiing

The big reason skiing costs so much is pretty obvious. Chairlifts, gondolas, and trams that transport skiers and snowboarders up the hill cost millions of dollars to build and pile up huge electricity bills. These costs are passed along to riders, most obviously in the form of a lift pass (and less obviously in the form of rip-off $8 hamburgers inside the lodge). One possibility for getting around the expense of a lift ticket is also rather obvious: get your butt up the hill on your own, via hiking boots, snowshoes, or cross-country or telemark skis. Sounds exhausting, huh? And perhaps a little dangerous? It can be both. Some folks should be rightly scared off from attempting such madness. Others have given backcountry skiing one try, and ever since happily fork over their cash for lift passes. But skiing in the backcountry--basically any mountain slope away from the standard ski resort--is beloved by thousands of hardcore skiers and outdoor enthusiasts. Not only is a backcountry skier rewarded with miles of untouched powder and remote mountain vistas only seen in ski mags or Warren Miller movies, but usually the costs of an off-piste adventure are usually minimal, and sometimes totally free. Some mountain areas where backcountry skiing is popular even have huts and lodges for overnight adventures. Conditions are usually pretty spartan, but the nightly bill is often under $30. Backcountry basics Finding a spot for backcountry skiing isn't as simple as locating a snow-covered slope. First off, backcountry skiing is not allowed everywhere. Many ski resorts will not let you hike their trails and ski down (in-bounds or out-of-bounds) without a pass of some sort. Plus, avalanches are part of the normal winter cycle in many mountain environments, especially out West. Some research is required to make sure your adventure is fun, the snow is good, and conditions are safe. The best place to start research is at "Off-Piste: The Backcountry Adventure Journal," published monthly in the winter. This rag, written and edited by backcountry diehards, can be found in convenience stores, ski lodges, and coffee shops in most ski towns. It's also got a fine Web site, offpistemag.com/, with features on great backcountry spots, an online forum for Q&A's with fellow enthusiasts, lists of upcoming events, free demos, avalanche training sessions, and other news, plus a link for 20 or so books focused on backcountry adventure. After reading up on the basics, do some soul-searching. An honest review of your physical conditioning is necessary too (perhaps this requires an outsider's opinion). Are you up to the task of carting yourself and your gear up a mountain in the snow? Would you rather the comforts of chairlifts, ski patrollers, and happy hour at the end of the day? Do you want a daytime trip only, or are you up for an overnighter? No matter where your personality fits in here, you should be in good shape, and have a goodly amount of experience in both skiing and hiking before giving the backcountry a try. Do-it-yourself locales Some locales are easy enough for a first-time backcountry skier to give it a shot, while at others it's a good idea to go only with a seasoned veteran or a professional guide. Some trails would only be fun for snowshoers and telemark or cross-country skiers, while other steep slopes are only good for expert downhill skiers or snowboarders. Just know what you're getting into before heading out into the woods. One of the first popular backcountry spots in the U.S. is Tuckerman Ravine, a bowl-shaped face above the tree line on New Hampshire's Mount Washington (the Northeast's tallest peak). Skiers have been coming here since the 1930's, and hundreds still come each weekend in late April and early May, when there's still plenty of snow and days are relatively warm. It's a fun scene, especially on sunny spring days--groups of friends picnic between runs or build jumps at the bottom of the slope. Loads of East Coast people pick Tuckerman's as their first backcountry adventure, but it isn't exactly an easy day. First off, there's an uphill hike from the parking lot, which takes around three hours, depending on pace and conditions (which can be muddy in the spring, but I've seen people do it in sneakers). After the grueling hike (you'll be carrying skis or a snowboard, plus boots and other gear in your backpack), some are too tired climb the headwall to actually go skiing. Also, the skiing here is tough--it's a seriously steep descent (if this was a resort, it would be probably be a double black diamond). But if you're in good shape and an expert skier, a day at Tuckerman Ravine is a blast. It is simply a "must" for any East Coast skiers who considers themselves hardcore. And the cost for a day's skiing at Tuckerman? $0. You will have to pay to stay in the area overnight of course, but there are plenty of affordable B&B's and motels in nearby North Conway, New Hampshire. Go to mountwashingtonvalley.org/ for a list of options. Find out about the limited camping and hut facilities located a short hike from Tuckerman Ravine at tuckerman.org/. Another good source of info on Tuckerman's, including its annual triathlon, at friendsoftuckerman.org/. The Appalachian Mountain Club (outdoors.org/) also operates a few lodges and huts in the Mount Washington area, starting in the neighborhood of $20 a night. Big backcountry adventures The West is where truly epic backcountry trips can be had. It's also where avalanches are more likely (they're almost unheard of in the East), so do some studying before heading up into the mountains. An avalanche training course couldn't hurt. Wherever there is fresh powder and an inclined slope, chances are some nutty kid has tried skiing it. But that doesn't mean you should do the same. Finding the best backcountry spots can be difficult--some locals protect their favorite places just as a fisherman might be reluctant to tell of a hidden nook where he knows the bass are biting. There are some fairly well-known places, however, where the snow is usually sensational, conditions are usually safe, and the crowds still haven't arrived. In many cases, there are even huts or lodges in the area, where $20 or $30 pays for a roof over your head. Skiers head to the backcountry to get away from the crowds, but it's a good idea to only go out where you'll see the occasional human face should something go amiss. The various backcountry lodges and hut systems are good places to get your feet wet (or at least, the outsides of your waterproof boots wet). In many instances, day trips are possible, so you can skip the cost of a hut overnight. You may still have to pay a nominal fee of $1 to $5 for access to the trails. Here's a quick run-down of some possibilities out West: Sierra Club Ski Huts: a dozen remote lodgings spread about in the mountains of California, usually with bunk facilities, charging $10 to $30 a night. Web site: sierraclub.org/outings/lodges 10th Mountain Division Hut Association: 29 huts in the Colorado Rockies, usually a few-mile hike or ski away from the nearest road, with 350 miles of skiable trails, starting at $25 a night. Web: huts.org/. The Alpine Club of Canada: an association of 20 backcountry huts in Western Canada popular among skiers, snowboarders, climbers, and mountaineers, charging about US$7 to $20 a night. On the Web: alpineclubofcanada.ca/. Sun Valley Trekking: a group of huts and yurts (large, durable circle-shaped tents) in the backcountry near Sun Valley, Idaho, with rates starting at $30 a night. Web site: svtrek.com/. Wallowa Alpine Huts: an Oregon-based outfit that offers guides, all meals, gear transport, and backcountry hut lodgings, starting at a little over $100 per day. On the Web: wallowahuts.com/.

Skiing Affordably

Lift tickets are an eye-bulging aspect of fun in the snow. Top resorts regularly require riders and skiers to drop $60 or more a day for the use of its slopes, and that's before adding in the costs of food, gear, accommodations, and Apres ski fun. There are various ways around the full-price lift ticket. Here are a few. Ski weekdays, not weekends The snow is the same, the slopes are much less crowded, plus you're saving money. There is really no down side to skiing on weekdays, if you can get the time off of work. It's the simplest way to save money: just hit the slopes during a weekday, non-holiday period, and prices will be 20 to 50 percent off in many cases (though a few stingy resorts charge full price no matter what). Hotel rooms are usually less expensive too. Look out for midweek hotel-lift ticket packages, when your chances are biggest for paying the least. Senior, child and student Always, always, always ask for them before purchasing. Sometimes these discounts are not advertised, but almost every resort offers lift ticket savings for seniors, children, and students. You'll often pay 50 percent or less than the regular adult-priced pass (and sometimes totally free for kids and seniors). Many mountains extend the discounts to lessons and rentals too. Ski part (not all) of the mountain Many resorts offer special ski passes for those only interested in riding a limited number of chairlifts. These offers are usually aimed at beginner skiers, who are more likely to stick at the bottom of the mountain and ride one or two chairlifts all day. Alta, in Utah, for example, charges $25 for a lift ticket good on three beginner chairlifts (while all-access passes cost $47). Check out whether a ski mountain offers such savings before paying full price, beginners especially. Ski part (not all) of the day Half-day ski passes are yet another of the annoying aspects of winter sports. They're called "half-day" but they sure as heck ain't half-price. Typically, half-day passes cost maybe 20 percent less than a full-day pass ($60 for full-day, $50 for half-day is fairly normal). Still, four hours of skiing is more than enough for some folks. So rather than ski from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., why not buy the half-day pass, save the $10, and hit the slopes from noon to 4 p.m.? Try to figure out how much skiing is enough for your legs to handle. Few skiers really get a full day's worth of skiing, especially if they're up at the mountain several days in a row. Swallow your pride and save a few bucks. Also, inquire if a resort has hourly or per-run rates, or special half-day tickets. Some resorts will charge by the hour or by the run these days. Others (particularly those that attract a big weekend crowd) will offer bigger half-day discounts for skiing on Sunday afternoons (when most visitors are trying to get home). Ski cards.discount programs These are primarily of interest only to those who ski at one resort regularly. Over the past few years, many resorts began programs that are essentially frequent skier discounts. Instead of offering the sole option of a season pass (which is worthwhile only for the select few who can ski dozens of days a year), resorts are now offering passes that are worth it if used only a handful of times. Here's how many of the passes work. You pay a certain amount up front for an ID card (say $50 or $75), and then each time you ski you pay a discounted rate (often as much as 50 percent off the standard lift rate). The card is set up to charge a credit card immediately, so this eliminates the need to wait in line to get a lift pass each day. Many times, if you ski at the resort five times or so, the card pays for itself and then some. Often when you buy such cards, they come with further savings if you bring other skiers along with you. The downsides of these cards? No variety. Since you have the discount card, you wind up always skiing at the same resort. Also, if you're going to wind up skiing only a few times, it may be cheaper to pay as you go. Alternately, some mountains offer passes that can be used at a handful of resorts (usually if they're owned by the same parent company). These passes are especially popular in Colorado, and are well-worth investigating if you plan on skiing more than a few times in the same region. Each ski resort's Web site will tell you all the details of its frequent skier programs, if it offers any. For example, a pass good for unlimited days at Colorado's Breckenridge, Keystone, and Arapahoe Basin, and 10 days at Vail and Beaver Creek, costs $349 at snow.com/. Scout out the local scene Oftentimes, newspapers in proximity to ski resorts post coupons and special offers. These are aimed at getting locals out to the resorts, but anyone (including tourists from out of state) can take advantage of them. So, newspapers in Denver are where to look for specials in Breckenridge, Vail, or Winter Park; newspapers in Salt Lake are where to find savings in Park City or Snowbird, and newspapers in Burlington, Vermont, are where ads for Stowe, Sugarbush, or Smuggler's Notch are likely to pop up. The best chances for finding these coupons and offers are in a paper's Travel sections (usually on Sunday, but some have Wednesday editions too). Can't find these papers in your town? Newsstands in big cities and huge bookstores like Barnes & Noble and Borders usually have a wide selection of newspapers from around the country. Libraries are often stocked with newspapers from all over as well. Gas stations, ski shops, and supermarkets are also sources of discounted lift tickets. Once you're in the vicinity of a ski mountain, ask around to see if tickets can be bought outside the resort to save money. Look into a ski package Almost every resort offers a number of lift-and-lodging packages. At the beginning and end of ski seasons, these packages are the best bargains on snow. It is not unusual to find a early winter or late spring ski package with accommodations and lift passes at a per-night price that in mid-February would have barely paid for a single-day's lift ticket. So check each resort's Web site (do a google search if you don't have Web addresses) for the latest promotional packages-especially in fall and spring. Several discount travel operators sell ski packages that combine a lift ticket with lodging, car rental, airfare, or all of the above. Packages are oftentimes (but not always) an easy way to save money. Shopping around is necessary to figure out which way is most budget-friendly. Reputable ski packages A few packagers that tend to have decent prices: Leisure Link International (888/801-8808, leisurelinkintl.com/) Lynx Vacations (877/284-7544, lynxvacations.com/) Moguls Mountain Travel (800/6-MOGULS, skimoguls.com/) Resort Quest (877/588-5800, resortquest.com/) Rocky Mountain Tours (800/525-SKIS, skithewest.com/) Southwest Airlines Vacations (800/243-8372, swavacations.com/) Ski Europe (800/333-5533, ski-europe.com/) Adventures on Skis (800/628-9655, advonskis.com/) Value Holidays (800/558-6850, valhol.com/) Holidaze Ski Tours (800/526-2827, holidaze.com/) Central Holidays (800/935-5000, centralholidays.com/) Go-Today Travel (800/227-3235, go-today.com/)

Ski Rental Tips

Skiing and snowboarding are considered sports for the economic elite—enjoyed by the same people who "summer" in the Hamptons or the South of France. But it doesn't have to be. If what you value is skiing itself (and not the deluxe resorts nor the snobbish appeal of the "scene"), there are plenty of affordable opportunities when it comes to hitting the snow. Here are tips on ways to save money when skiing, including purchasing equipment inexpensively, the questions of when and where to rent, and a tip on finding affordable food. Getting gear without getting takenOne big reason skiing seems like a snobby sport is because, at least on first glance, simply outfitting yourself for a day in the powder requires a Rockefeller's bank account. $800 skis? $600 boots? $400 ski pants? $200 gloves? Yes, some people actually pay these outrageous prices, and they fork over these amounts once every year or two, to make sure they always have the latest, most fashionable gear and clothing. Does it make them better skiers? Do they enjoy themselves more? Not a chance on both accounts. There is an old adage among ski gurus that the true snow-riding diehards are the ones with duct tape holding together some part of their gear (such ragged duct-taped individuals are likely to be the ones zooming by you in a blur). True powder hounds value their time on the snow, not their moment waiting in the liftline (which some consider the equivalent of a model's runway). They also know when, and how, to find quality ski equipment at the best prices (the less spent on equipment, the more they can spend on adventures in the snow, after all). First off, think of ski or snowboard gear like cars. Each year, there is a new model, and rarely is there a big change from the previous edition. Just as a car still on the lot has its price slashed in the summer (when the newer models are released), perfectly fine ski equipment is sold at huge discounts if it has sat on the storeroom floor long enough. You'll find the best prices in the late spring and summer, when ski shops are looking to clear out inventory. At other times of year, ask a clerk if any of last year's equipment is still left over (holdovers may be hard to find; the new stuff is always displayed most prominently). This goes for skis, boots, poles, and boards, as well as ski pants, jackets, gloves, goggles, and all the toys that go along with winter sports. Secondly, consider buying used equipment. The aforementioned fashionistas purchasing brand-new gear every year often get rid of their barely used equipment, and they might sell them off for next to nothing. (Apparently, they can't bare being seen with anything the latest models.) Many ski resorts and shops have tent sales in spring and summer, where the previous season's rental skis are sold off en masse. Barely used ski bargains also abound at swap meets, local newspaper's classified ads, and on the Web, at bidding sites like eBay (www.ebay.comHave an idea of what the going rate for brand-new equipment is, and then never pay more than half the manufacturer's standard price for used gear. It's hard for novices to know whether equipment has been seriously damaged, so bring along an experienced skier friend, if possible, to look over your perspective "new" gear. You should just rent equipment, though, if you're truly testing the waters (frozen waters, that is), and want only to invest a bare minimum while scouting out the sport. I definitely recommend renting if you're a beginner (old or young), for three possible reasons: one, because they may accel in the sport and outperform their first pair of novice skis in a hurry; two, because beginners tend to ski seldomly and their skis may spend months, even years collecting dust; and three, because there's no guarantee that a beginner will enjoy the sport, and they may wind up giving it up entirely after a few tries. Renting equipment may also be a good idea for young children. They'll outgrow their boots, if not their skis, in a season, sometimes quicker. But obviously if a family has more than one child, bought skis can be passed down from the older child to the younger child. For big families, buying inexpensive skis for kids is normally a good investment. No one needs the latest, most hi-tech equipment to enjoy skiing, especially not children. There is no problem with letting kids ski with equipment that is several years old. They'll still have a great time.Before renting, however, realize that buying used or discounted equipment may cost the same as three or four days of rentals. So sometimes it's worth it to buy equipment, even if you're only planning on using the skis, poles, and boots for a week's vacation. As for where to rent equipment, don't wait until you're at the resort. It's better to shop around. You can almost always find a cheaper place to rent ski equipment at a shop in town (in your town or the town right outside the resort), rather than on the mountain, where they know you have little choice but to rent from them. Pack a lunchOne final tip: The food at ski cafeterias is never, never, never, ever a good buy. Prices for grub inside a ski lodge are usually on par with those at sports arenas or airports. Burgers for $8, candy bars for $2, and a bottle of Gatorade for $4 are not unusual. So do yourself a favor and pack a sandwich, some fruit, and a drink. If the idea of making a sandwich doesn't gel with your vacation, buy a lunch somewhere off the resort grounds and bring it to the lodge. It'll be much cheaper than the cafeteria eats, and chances are, tastier too.

Football Historical Tours

Football may not have all the historic lore and tradition of baseball, but that doesn't mean there aren't lots of great places to visit if you're looking to celebrate some football history. Let's tackle a few of them right now: First quarter: Football halls of fame Starting from the top, every football fan should pay a visit to the Pro Football Hall of Fame in Canton Ohio (2121 George Halas Drive N.W., 330-456-8207). Opened on Sept 7, 1963, the hall and museum has since been visited by more than seven million fans. The Pro Football Hall of Fame boasts almost 83,000 square feet of football history, tracing the sport's roots from 1892 through the present day. Thousands of artifacts are displayed, from the helmet and jersey Emmitt Smith would wore when he became the NFL's career rushing leader to many of legendary footballer Jim Thorpe's personal effects.Much like its baseball counterpart, the hall inducts new players each year and a special Hall of Fame game is played each year in Canton. Just to the north is another, albeit smaller museum and pro football hall of fame, the Canadian Football Hall of Fame, located 58 Jackson Street West in Hamilton, Ontario. It opened in 1972 and honors the stars of Canadian football and features a fun "hands on" zone and tributes to greats with Canadian roots such as Joe Kapp and Warren Moon. The College Football Hall of Fame, (located in Indiana near Notre Dame at 111 South St. Joseph St., South Bend) features thousands of treasured college football artifacts along with a 360-degree Stadium Theater. Youngsters take note: you'll want to visit the Pop Warner Museum at 98 East Main Street in Springville (upstate New York). Named for Glenn "Pop" Warner, it commemorates the incredible career of this legendary football hero. During his four decades as a coach, Warner brought many innovations to college football, including the spiral punt, the screen play, single- and double-wing formations, the naked reverse, the three-point stance, numbering players' jerseys, and the use of shoulder and thigh pads. But for many, Warner is best remembered for starting the Pop Warner Youth Football League in 1929. Second quarter: traces of football's past On Nov 8, 1970, at the former site of Tulane Stadium, New Orleans Saints' place-kicker Tom Dempsey, prepared to kick a 63-yard field goal in the closing seconds of a game against the Detroit Lions. If he made it, it would be the longest field goal in NFL history. The Lions were up 17 to 16 and so Dempsey was the Saints' last chance. Adding to the drama was the fact that Dempsey's kicking foot was deformed to the point that he only had half a foot. Incredibly, Dempsey put it through the goalposts, making history and winning the game for the Saints. To date, the record stands as the longest, though Denver's Jason Elam tied the record in 1998. Torn down in 1980, there is not a single piece of Tulane Stadium remaining. However, three plaques that used adorn the stadium's walls remain, now placed at what once was the northeast corner of the stadium. (Aron Student Residences at Stadium Place, intersection of McAlister Drive and Willow Street at Tulane University in New Orleans, Louisiana.) To experience a classic stadium that does still stand, look no further than the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum, located at 3911 South Figueroa Street in Los Angeles. University of Southern California plays there now, but this place has hosted two Super Bowls (including the first) and hundreds of college and pro games. Since the early 1920's, it has hosted six professional football teams: The Rams, Dons, Chargers and Raiders of the NFL, the Express of the USFL and the Extreme of the short-lived XFL. Finally, at the Intersection of Grant and Pennsylvania Avenues in Pittsburgh is the former site of Recreation Park. As the marker reads, pro football began at this site in 1892 in when former Yale star William "Pudge" Heffelfinger was paid $500 to play in a single game for the Allegheny Athletic Association on Nov 12. Third quarter: stadium tours Stadium tours are a terrific way to get a behind-the-scenes look at the NFL. More and more stadiums offer them, and here are some of the better tours: The Lambeau Field Stadium Tour lets Packer fans relive the memories of legends including Vince Lombardi, Fuzzy Thurston, Ray Nitschke, Bart Starr and Brett Farve. The 60-minute tour gives you access to behind-the-scenes areas and you'll even walk through the team tunnel on the same concrete that every Packers player has walked on since Lombardi's teams took the field. Adults $8. Discounts for seniors, students and kids. (855 LombardiAvenue, Green Bay, Wisconsin, 920-569-7513.) While there, don't miss the Packers Hall of Fame for more Packers history. Football Museums Pro Football Hall of Fame 2121 George Halas Drive NW, Canton, Ohio 44708, (330) 456-8207, Admission: $13 Canadian Football Hall of Fame 58 Jackson Street West, Hamilton, Ontario L8P 1L4, (905) 528-7566, Admission: $3 College Football Hall of Fame 111 South St. Joseph Street, South Bend, IN 46601, 800-440 FAME , General admission: $10 For those who like their Bears history, another classic tour to take is Soldiers Field in Chicago. It includes the South Courtyard, Doughboy Statue, Grand Concourse, Mezzanine Level, the Cadillac Club and Colonnades, Sky Suites, Visitor's Locker Room, and West Den and costs tour costs $15 per adult, discounted rates for seniors and children. (312-235-7244). Heading south, the tours at Texas Stadium (972-785-4850) will thrill Cowboy fans. It takes you behind the scenes and into the locker rooms of the famous Lone Star State landmarks. Adults $10, less for seniors and kids. Fourth quarter: a few classic college stadiums Another great way to experience football history is by visiting the hallowed, ivy-covered walls of some legendary collegiate battlefields. Ohio Stadium in Columbus is one of the most recognizable landmarks in all of athletics. Now more than 80 years old, it holds more than 100,000 fans and fits perfectly along the banks of the Olentangy River. Harvard Stadium, the nation's oldest, is another classic stop. A giant "horseshoe" which blends Greek and Roman styles, its sight lines are some of the best in the game. And of course, Notre Dame Stadium in South Bend, Indiana, "The House that Rockne Built", is perhaps the most hallowed in the nation. Originally built in 1930, it's undergone much refurbishment but still retains all of its historic charm. Overtime: big time high school football High school football is the lifeblood of some communities, as important to a small town as an NFL franchise is to a big city. A few of the most historic (and intense) places to enjoy the spirit of small-town high school football include the following: 18,000-seat Paul Brown Tiger Stadium at Massillon Washington High Stadium in Masillon, Ohio. It was built in 1939 and is where former Ohio State and Cleveland Browns Hall of Famer Paul Brown led the Tigers to six straight state titles and two national championships. In Cincinnati is The Pit at Elder High School. Built in 1947, the 10,000-seat horseshoe-shaped stadium actually turns down more than 500 season ticket requests each season, so intense is the local fan base. In Valdosta, Georgia is Valdosta High. The team plays at Cleveland Field at Bazemore-Hyder Stadium, which was built in 1922 and holds 12,000 of the faithful. Unique to the filed is a loud pre-game ritual. A tunnel leads out of the locker room and as players make their way to the field, they use their helmets to pound the bottom of the tin roof, which creates a deafening sound. And at West Monroe High in West Monroe, Louisiana, fans gather at Rebel Stadium, which was built in 1953 and seats 10,200. A college atmosphere rules the day here, replete with some of the best gastronomical tailgaiting anywhere (for those who love red beans and rice and jambalaya). Whether you go long or short, there are plenty of places to celebrate pro, college, even high school football-don't pass them up!