True Stories

Washington State's Mount Rainier National Park is a rugged landscape of waterfalls, glaciers, and lakes. The upper slope of its highest peak, Mount Rainier, a 14,410-foot-high volcano in the Cascade mountain range, is covered with 26 glaciers and scores of snowfields. Together they total 35 square miles, making it the country's largest single-mountain ice mass outside of Alaska. And that holds true even in summer, when hikers find ample ammunition for snowball fights after only 20 minutes of climbing up any number of trails. A four-day, 600-mile-loop drive out of Seattle is the ideal way to take in Mount Rainier, along with its national park neighbor, North Cascades National Park; an Old West mining town that's working hard to preserve its history; a bustling lake resort; and a curious village with Bavarian aspirations. Day one: Seattle to Winthrop The drive got under way inauspiciously as my wife, Sandy, and I negotiated the traffic on I-5/I-405 north out of Seattle's urban clutter. But as soon as we exited east onto the North Cascades Highway (State Route 20), the road opened up, and a seemingly impenetrable wall of soaring peaks loomed ahead. The Cascade mountain range is a 700-mile-long chain stretching from northern California into British Columbia. Within it, North Cascades National Park has the sheerest, most rugged peaks. More than a dozen soar above 8,000 feet; even the most experienced hikers can find them intimidating. Drenched by Pacific storms, the western slopes are covered in a dense, eerily dark forest dripping with moss. And on the high cliffs, hundreds of waterfalls cascade down--which is how the range got its name. We stopped briefly in Newhalem, where the National Park Service operates a visitor center, and picked up a free guide to day hikes. A mile beyond, we entered a misty forest on the gentle Trail of the Cedars. Following the racing Skagit River, the path makes a short loop among giant Douglas firs and western red cedars, which rival the California redwood for size and beauty. Signs along the way introduced us to the region's plants and trees; I started my informal education on how to tell the difference between firs and cedars. (Though both trees have reddish brown bark, cedars have scale-like leaves, while firs have needles.) After our hike, we picnicked at the trailhead, buying bread and a sharp cheddar at the Skagit General Store, which is right in the parking lot. East of Newhalem, the highway climbs through a spectacular gorge, edging high above a trio of slender lakes resembling the fjords of Norway. Gorge and Diablo lakes appeared bright green; Ross Lake, shimmering in the sun, reflected the deep blue of the sky. Checking our guidebook, we kept an eye out for the trail to Rainy Lake. The trail is just a mile long (one way), and it leads to what we agreed was one of the prettiest views in the Cascades. The path plunges into a forest of spruce, fir, and mountain hemlock. We crossed two bridged streams that splash down the mountainside. Then we found a place where suddenly the trees give way to a small turquoise lake, with evergreens lining the shore and a wall of rock towering above. Three thread-like waterfalls pour down. The road reaches its highest point at Washington Pass, at 5,477 feet. From a viewing area, we spotted climbers inching up 7,740-foot Liberty Bell, a massive rock that resembles the Philadelphia landmark. A ranger next to us watched the climbers' slow progress through her telescope. The highway descends gradually through a winding canyon to the town of Winthrop, on the sunnier, drier eastern foothills of the Cascades. The old mining outpost has worked vigorously to preserve its frontier look. Balconies hang over wooden sidewalks, creating a main street that looks like it could be a Gunsmoke set. Old Schoolhouse Brewery now occupies the town's little red schoolhouse--a fake frontier structure that was actually built in the 1970s--and serves the award-winning Ruud Awakening. In addition to refurbishing some old buildings, the town also built new ones in an Old West style. In search of a decidedly more authentic experience, we walked a block off the main road, Riverside Avenue, to the multibuilding Shafer Museum. The weathered collection of historical structures outlines the town's mining past. At the end of Riverside Avenue, the new 29-room Hotel Rio Vista lived up to its name; our room had a terrific view of the Methow River. For dinner, we took a two-minute walk down the street to the Riverside Grill, where I had a generous platter of excellent barbecued ribs. Day one Lodging   Hotel Rio Vista 285 Riverside Ave., Winthrop, 800/398-0911, hotelriovista.com, from $60 Food   Riverside Grill 162 Riverside Ave., Winthrop, 509/996-2444, barbecued rib platter $13   Old Schoolhouse Brewery 155 Riverside Ave., Winthrop, 509/996-3183, pint $3.50 Attractions   Visitor Center, North Cascades National Park Newhalem, 206/386-4495, nps.gov/noca Day two: Winthrop to Yakima Before leaving town, we stopped in at the Winthrop National Fish Hatchery to learn about efforts to boost the number of chinook, steelhead, and coho salmon spawning in the waters here. The chinook and steelhead are officially listed as endangered species, and the coho is in even more serious trouble. Since the 1940s, the hatchery has been raising salmon, releasing almost 1 million youngsters annually on a 600-mile journey to the Pacific Ocean past nine dams, where the salmon live for an average of two to three years before returning to spawn. Annual returns number in the low hundreds. Due to the hatchery's efforts, the salmon are surviving, though certainly not thriving yet. This area has been plagued by summer forest fires, and the 66-year-old North Cascades Smokejumper Base, just outside downtown Winthrop, is the "birthplace of smoke jumping." Sandy relaxed in the room while I took a free 60-minute tour. An on-duty smoke jumper showed me the crew's parachute rigging room and led me aboard the two-engine plane waiting on the runway for the next fire call. Next up was Chelan, a busy resort town on a large lake. It was a little cold for a swim, so we enjoyed the views from the banks. Lake Chelan was carved by a glacier and cuts a thin swath into the heart of the Cascades. Passenger ferries cross the lake, which is 50 miles long, but we arrived too late to catch the 8:30 a.m. round trip on the Lady Express. For the next 40 miles to Wenatchee, U.S. 97 south runs along the Columbia River and the massive Lake Entiat, formed by a river dam. We stopped at one of the many roadside fruit stands to purchase a small box of golden Rainier cherries, fresh-picked and luscious, before briefly detouring west into the mountains to the curious little Bavarian-inspired village of Leavenworth. Taking a cue from their Alps-like setting, the local folk--who are not necessarily of German descent--decided to revitalize their once-failing community by creating an ersatz Bavarian village. Shopkeepers and restaurant crews are decked out in lederhosen.  Yakima is an agriculturally rich city, noted in particular for its cherries, apples, and very good wines. It's possible to taste for free at 46 Yakima Valley wineries, many of which are clustered south of town.  Day two Attractions   Winthrop National Fish Hatchery Winthrop, 509/996-2424   North Cascades Smokejumper Base Winthrop, 509/997-2031   Lady Express Operated by Lake Chelan Boat Company, Chelan, 509/682-4584, ladyofthelake.com, 8:30 a.m. cruise $47   Yakima Valley wineries 800/258-7270, wineyakimavalley.com Day three: Yakima to Mount Rainier National Park We kept jackets and sweaters close at hand as we headed back to the high country. Even in midsummer, daytime temperatures can drop as low as 30 degrees, and lingering snowbanks line the road. On the way out of town, we stopped at a grocery store and picked up cheese, crackers, cherries, and cookies and packed them in a cooler in the car. Our winding ascent began just outside Yakima. Initially we passed through the slender canyon of the Naches River, and then at Chinook Pass (elevation 5,432 feet), we entered Mount Rainier National Park. At the first sight of snow, Sandy and I pulled off the road to toss snowballs, each of us scoring a direct hit. Though it's not America's highest peak, Rainier is the most awesome I've ever seen, because of both its massive bulk and easy accessibility. You can drive almost up to the edge of some of the glaciers. Practically filling the sky, the mountain towers in solitary glory above neighboring Cascade peaks like the statuesque ruler of a mystical ice kingdom. Our first stop in the park, requiring a round-trip detour of 40 miles, was Sunrise, which, at 6,400 feet, is the highest point reachable by car. We got a close-up view of Emmons, the largest (at 4.3 square miles) of Rainier's 26 glaciers, before stopping to pull out our cooler contents and picnic along the White River. It has its name for a reason: It appears white in color, a result of the silt--crushed rock called "glacial flour"--that is carried by glacial melt. Doubling back, we headed west to Paradise, which is the park's hub. The mini-village has a visitor center, a restaurant, trailheads to the summit, and a climbing school. Rainier's last major eruption was more than 500 years ago, but it could spout off again at any time. There are signs pointing the way to evacuation routes in the park, should you be on hand for the next eruption. Needless to say, I found the warnings a bit unnerving. The best way to view Rainier, a ranger told us, is to hike one of the well-marked trails at the edge of Nisqually Glacier. A low portion of the Skyline Trail led us through fields thick with wildflowers. A side trail took us up to a point where snow started. Not too far past that, the snow was so high it blocked our path, and we were forced to return to the original trail. That night, we stayed in Paradise, at the Paradise Inn. Built in 1917, it's a handsome wooden structure. In the grand lobby, the furniture is made of hand-hewn cedar. And upstairs, the rooms are tiny; a double bed all but fills one, leaving space for only a nightstand and--if you're lucky enough to get one of the bigger rooms--a chair and desk. But rates are reasonable, and the views in every direction qualify as luxury-class. It's the best place to stay in the park, and for that reason, it tends to book up months in advance. Day three Lodging   Paradise Inn Paradise, Mount Rainier National Park, 360/569-2275, guestservices.com/rainier, from $92 Food Paradise Inn Dining Room bourbon buffalo meat loaf, $15.50 Attractions   Mount Rainier National Park 360/569-2211, nps.gov/mora, $10 per car, valid for one week On our way out of the park, we stopped at Narada Falls. The magnificent waterfall spills over a cliff's edge in a roar and hits a huge rock; the water is then dispersed, spreading wide in a flow that seems as delicate as a Spanish fan. At the base of the falls, we picked up the 93-mile-long Wonderland Trail, which encircles Mount Rainier. We hiked for an hour and then turned around. But it led us into a quieter side of Rainier, with shadowy forests where the peace is broken only by the splashing of a stream. Before returning to Seattle, we caught a last glimpse of Rainier's glaciers out of the car's rear window. Just the memory of the ice seemed to keep us cooler for the rest of the summer. Finding your way At least five discount airlines serve Seattle-Tacoma International Airport: America West, American Trans Air, Southwest, Frontier, and JetBlue. You should be able to rent a car with unlimited mileage for under $140 a week. Keep in mind that snow in both North Cascades and Mount Rainier national parks can close parts of this route from November to May. If you go during any season other than summer, it's wise to check ahead about road conditions. Even in summer, on the western slopes of the Cascades you'll need a jacket, and it's possible that you'll also need a poncho or other rain gear. On the sunny eastern slopes, shorts and T-shirts should be sufficient. Temperatures reach 80 degrees. 1. Seattle Airport to Winthrop, 200 miles From the airport, take I-5/I-405 north to Route 20 east (North Cascades Highway) to Winthrop. Be sure to allow plenty of time for the drive; after leaving the interstates, the road becomes narrow and windy, and its edges are sheer drop-offs. 2. Winthrop to Yakima, 190 miles Take Route 20 south via Twisp to Route 153 south. At Pateros, continue south on U.S. 97, detouring four miles west into Leavenworth on U.S. 2. Return to U.S. 97 south to Ellensburg, picking up I-82 south into Yakima. 3. Yakima to Mount Rainier National Park (Paradise), 125 miles Take U.S. 12 west, picking up Route 410 into Mount Rainier National Park. Once in the park, detour north to get to Sunrise. To reach Paradise, you'll have to double back the way you came. 4. Paradise to Seattle airport, 95 miles Follow the park road to the Nisqually entrance. Pick up Route 706 west to Elbe, connecting to Route 7 and then to I-5 north. From the park, the drive to the airport should take about two and a half hours.

What you'll find in this story: Paris restaurants, Paris culture, Paris attractions, Paris neighborhoods, Paris bistros, Paris markets When I left Paris to live and work in the San Francisco Bay Area at the height of the Internet euphoria, there were some things that I expected--sunshine, freeways, a cool job in a start-up company--and some that I didn't. Among the latter was that I'd develop a passionate interest in food and cooking, discovering at age 21 how much fun could be had in the kitchen and how much pleasure at the table. It was also from this new perspective, one continent and one ocean away, that I really saw the beauty, charm, and wealth of my birth city, which had all but eluded me when they were my daily bread. I came home after two years in California, and my love for Paris and gastronomy only burned brighter as I settled in again with intense happiness, hungrily catching up with the City of Light (and Good Food), this time with fresh eyes and alert taste buds. This passion prompted me to create a food blog, Chocolate & Zucchini (chocolateandzucchini.com), where I could share my culinary joys with like-minded readers. I enjoy nothing more than spreading the word about the gems I find, recommending them excitedly and relishing the description of this shop or that restaurant. Of course, there's always a measure of risk in directing someone to go somewhere. When they come back to tell me about it I always get a flutter in my stomach (did they like it?), usually replaced by a sweet tide of relief (the food was fabulous and the service super-kind). What follows is a reflection of my Paris, the one I love so dearly. I can only hope you'll make it yours. Eat One of my greatest pleasures is to walk around with no particular purpose, breezing into shops, exploring little streets, and going just a step farther to see what's beyond the next corner. A welcome side effect of all this walking is that you build up quite an appetite, and it is of utmost importance to know where to stop for a quick and tasty lunch. Cojean is the epitome of hip and healthy fast food in Paris. The tempting menu at the six Paris locations features the three S's (sandwiches, salads, and soups) and changes seasonally, to focus on the freshest products. The toasted veggie and provolone sandwich ($7.75) is bound to win you over. Opened by Alain Ducasse and Eric Kayser, Boulangépicier (a.k.a. Be) is right at the crossroads of a bakery, restaurant, and gourmet store; Kayser's famed bread is baked on the premises and gastronomic goods line the shelves. The sandwiches are among the city's best, and I'll go out of my way for the mini-sandwich skewer ($11), which allows you to sample three sandwiches: pesto and tomato on basil bread, duck fillet on tomato bread, and goat cheese and tapenade on olive bread. Another example of the restaurant/grocery formula, Les Vivres is a cozy, bright room where you can load up your plate with different preparations of seasonal vegetables or choose the daily combination of starter, main course, and dessert. Rose Bakery is owned by an English/French couple, and it offers fabulous salads, cute square quiches, and quality goods from the U.K., including sumptuous cheese. It's enough to make you change your mind about British food. This is the ideal spot for tea and a dessert; I say try the sticky toffee pudding ($5). While you're shopping at Le Bon Marché department store, take a look at Delicabar and its bubblegum interior design on the second floor. The creative menu features savory twists on standard French patisseries (vegetable mille-feuilles with salad, $16) and hard-to-resist pastries. The concept of brunch has taken off here only in recent years. The first to get it right was Le Pain Quotidien . At wooden communal tables, barely awake Parisians are served café au lait, soft-boiled eggs, cheese, and charcuterie (from $25.50). Large trays carry the signature chocolate and praline spreads, to be sampled on artisanal bread. More upscale, A Priori Thé is nested in the Galerie Vivienne, one of the 19th-century shopping passages that drill through whole blocks. This salon de thé, or tea salon, serves a weekend brunch of warm sandwiches, egg dishes, and fruit tarts (from $30). Sit at the indoor terrace and bask in the sunlight shining through the glass arcade. Although frequented mostly during the day, R'Aliment is where I go for dinner with the girls. The menu leans toward organic products and always offers at least one vegetarian option. I recently delighted in a beet and lime soup ($8) followed by a mushroom and chestnut tart ($15.75). La Cave de l'Os à Moëlle started out as an annex to L'Os à Moëlle, across the street, but the wine bar has surpassed the restaurant in popularity. Pick a bottle from the wall compartments and sit with other diners to share a family-style meal of delicious country food. It's as close to an all-you-can-eat buffet as Parisian style will allow and one of the best deals around ($26.25). If you haven't yet explored the Butte-aux-Cailles and its quiet hilltop streets, Café Fusion is the perfect excuse. The bright, modern bistro serves French classics side by side with Asian or Mediterranean dishes--and the beef tartare ($15.75) cohabits beautifully with the salmon grilled in a banana leaf ($14.50). It also boasts an exquisite terrace for warm summer nights. Almost a century after Henri Androuët opened his first cheese shop, his name is emblazoned on some 10 fromageries and, more recently, two casual restaurants named Androuët Sur le Pouce (eating on the run--literally, on the thumb). In addition to marvelous tartines (from $13.75), these cheese bars serve tasting platters (also from $13.75). At dinner, it's quieter, and the knowledgeable staff is more available. Bistros and gastronomy have been a happy couple for more than a decade, and a new adjective--bistronomique--has been coined for restaurants offering expert dishes in a casual atmosphere at a reasonable price. Among the newer ones, perhaps the most interesting is L'Ourcine, joining L'Avant-Goût in the oft-neglected 13th arrondissement. Other favorites are Bistro Vivienne and the bustling Velly. If you're willing to climb a notch on the gastronomical (and price) scale, I recommend the authentic Aux Lyonnais, for its brilliant take on Lyon specialties, and Chez Jean, for the creative simplicity of its dishes and its warm ambience. Superstar dining isn't out of reach! Most high-class restaurants have special lunch menus: same sophisticated food, same fabulous service, in a less intimidating atmosphere and at a gentler price. Lunch at Les Ambassadeurs will cost you $92, plus wine, but it's an experience you will never forget. 10 place de la Concorde, 8th arr., 011-33/1-44-71-16-16.   Cojean 6 rue de Sèze, 9th arr., 011-33/1-40-06-08-80   Boulangépicier 73 bd de Courcelles, 8th arr., 011-33/1-46-22-20-20   Les Vivres 28 rue Pétrelle, 9th arr., 011-33/1-42-80-26-10, lamb $18   Rose Bakery 46 rue des Martyrs, 9th arr., 011-33/1-42-82-12-80   Delicabar 26-38 rue de Sèvres, 7th arr., 011-33/1-42-22-10-12   Le Pain Quotidien 18 place du Marché St-Honoré, 1st arr., 011-33/1-42-96-31-70   A Priori Thé 35-37 Galerie Vivienne, 2nd arr., 011-33/1-42-97-48-75   R'Aliment 57 rue Charlot, 3rd arr., 011-33/1-48-04-88-28   La Cave de l'Os à Moëlle 181 rue de Lourmel, 15th arr., 011-33/1-45-57-28-28   Café Fusion 12 rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles, 13th arr., 011-33/1-45-80-12-02   Androuët sur le Pouce 49 rue St-Roch, 1st arr., 011-33/1-42-97-57-39   L'Ourcine 92 rue Broca, 13th arr., 011-33/1-47-07-13-65, prix fixe $37   L'Avant-Goût 26 rue Bobillot, 13th arr., 011-33/1-53-80-24-00, prix fixe $41   Bistro Vivienne 4 rue des Petits Champs, 2nd arr., 011-33/1-49-27-00-50, veal blanquette $20   Velly 52 rue Lamartine, 9th arr., 011-33/1-48-78-60-05, prix fixe $41   Aux Lyonnais 32 rue St-Marc, 2nd arr., 011-33/1-42-96-65-04, prix fixe $37   Chez Jean 8 rue St-Lazare, 9th arr., 011-33/1-48-78-62-73, prix fixe $45   ShopIf the idea of purchasing professional-quality pots and pans sends your heart aflutter, an expedition to Les Halles is in order. It was historically Paris's main food market (before it was moved to the outskirts in 1969), and a few age-old stores remain, selling cooking gear at reasonable prices to professionals and amateurs alike. The renowned E. Dehillerin is a must, but so are A. Simon, a block away (the restaurant tableware is simple and affordable) and Mora, selling more baking tools than you and I will ever know how to use. Everyone needs a chocolate-dipping fork, no?   Once your kitchen is fully re-equipped, hop to the nearby G. Detou for supplies. The small shop, which my grandmother recommended to me, has shelves upon shelves of bargain-priced cooking ingredients in bulk (nuts, chocolate, spices-- some impossible to find anywhere else) and a number of gourmet items (jams, condiments, and did I mention chocolate?) that make great gifts for the foodies you love--including yourself.For more of these fine products (and a few more euros), the two temples for the fancy-food hunter are Lafayette Gourmet and La Grande Epicerie de Paris, which carry a dizzying array of the latest in fine- food fashions. If you prefer small stores with someone to advise you, check out the spices and exotic products at Izrael in the Marais and Le Comptoir Colonial in Montmartre.Tea lovers, rejoice: Le Palais des Thés is the place for a wide selection of quality blends from all over the world--including a selection of thés rares--as well as stylish accessories. Perched on top of the Butte-aux-Cailles, Les Abeilles is a tiny shop specializing in beekeeping gear and honey-based products. You'll find everything you need to please your inner bear, including a stupendous honey cake ($7.75 per pound).   Open-air markets are certainly the most uplifting and fun places for food shopping. Saturday mornings often find me walking happily around the organic Marché des Batignolles, filling my basket with lush and uncommon fruits and veggies, not to mention terrific cheeses. It's in the 17th arrondissement, on the Boulevard des Batignolles, outside the Métro Rome. Just one district to the east, but on the opposite end of the social spectrum, the super-crowded Marché de Barbès is held on Wednesday and Saturday mornings (on Boulevard de la Chapelle, outside the Métro Barbès). Elbow through the colorful throngs and buy produce for a steal. You can even haggle if you're so inclined. The roundup of my favorite food shops wouldn't be complete if I didn't mention chocolate. I'd need countless pages to cover this subject, but let me share three current favorites: Jadis et Gourmande, for the tresse, a specialty chocolate with nuts and candied orange peel ($7 for 22 ounces); Cacao et Chocolat, for the hot chocolate bar, pastries, and Impériale line of ganaches ($9.75 for 22 ounces); and L'Atelier du Chocolat de Bayonne, for the rippled sheets of chocolate sold in pretty bouquets ($14.50 for 7.75 ounces). Of course, once you've welcomed all those goodies into your home, you'll need the proper accessories to present them. Head to Habitat for classy and modern tableware, then to Sentou Galerie for a look at the latest trends and designer items. If you yearn for previously loved country-house plates and bowls instead, L'Objet qui Parle, a tiny attic of a shop on rue des Martyrs, will be just your thing. And for a change of pace, consider the beautiful African tableware at L'Arbre du Voyageur . The handmade dishes and cutlery, as well as a wealth of other decorative objects, jewelry, and food products, were purchased under fair trade conditions directly from the artisans.There's no such thing as too many cookbooks--just too little shelf space. Located on the up-and-coming rue Charlot, a gallery and bookstore called Food carries a smart selection of titles in French, English, and Japanese. Didn't think a whole recipe book could be written about vegetable peelings? Think again!What do you drink with all of this? Start at Lavinia, a three-floor wine emporium (3 bd de la Madeleine, 1st arr., 011-33/1-42-97-20-20). Rare bottles are in the basement; you may find yourself whispering out of respect. For an honest little wine, I turn to my no-frills neighborhood shop, La Cave des Abbesses (43 rue des Abbesses, 18th arr., 011-33/1-42-52-81-54).   E. Dehillerin 18 rue Coquillière, 1st arr., 011-33/1-42-36-53-13   Simon 48 rue Montmartre, 2nd arr., 011-33/1-42-33-71-65   Mora 13 rue Montmartre, 1st arr., 011-33/1-45-08-19-24   G. Detou 58 rue Tiquetonne, 2nd arr., 011-33/1-42-36-54-67   Lafayette Gourmet 48 bd Haussmann, 9th arr., 011-33/1-40-23-52-25   La Grande Epicerie 38 rue de Sèvres, 7th arr., 011-33/1-44-39-81-00   Izrael 30 rue François Miron, 4th arr., 011-33/1-42-72-66-23   Le Comptoir Colonial 22 rue Lepic, 18th arr., 011-33/1-42-58-44-84   Le Palais des Thés 64 rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd arr., 011-33/1-48-87-80-60   Les Abeilles 21 rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles, 13th arr., 011-33/1-45-81-43-48   Jadis et Gourmande 27 rue Boissy d'Anglas, 8th arr., 011-33/1-42-65-23-23   Cacao et Chocolat 36 rue Vieille du Temple, 4th arr., 011-33/1-42-71-50-06   L'Atelier du Chocolat de Bayonne 109 rue St-Lazare, 9th arr., 011-33/1-40-16-09-13   Habitat 10 place de la République, 11th arr., 011-33/1-48-07-13-14   Sentou Galerie 24 rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, 4th arr., 011-33/1-42-71-00-01   L'Objet qui Parle 86 rue des Martyrs, 18th arr., 011-33/6-09-67-05-30   L'Arbre du Voyageur 32 rue de l'Espérance, 13th arr., 011-33/1-53-80-16-10   Food 58 rue Charlot, 3rd arr., 011-33/1-42-72-68-97   PlayIf you're at all like me, you're much happier if there's a food aspect to the things you do and the places you visit. Luckily, a number of cultural establishments in Paris have made sure to feed your stomach as well as your mind. The Musée Jacquemart-André is a luxurious 19th-century mansion that presents the art collection of its former owners. The dining room is now a salon de thé, serving tea, lunch, and pastries. At the Palais de Tokyo, the controversial contemporary arts center, the Tokyo Eat restaurant and its postmodern decor is as much a part of the experience as the edgy gift shop and the art itself.The Théâtre Edouard VII kindly solves the dilemma of whether to eat before or after a play. The owner's wife, a best-selling cookbook author, recently opened Café Guitry inside the theater. Her cooking (featuring specialties like lamb tajine with prunes and grilled almonds, or lemon and rosemary roasted chicken) is so good that people eat there even when they're not staying for the performance.Selling food and drinks inside a movie theater isn't unusual, but no one does it with as much style as Studio 28 in Montmartre. This tiny cinema (just one auditorium, decorated by Jean Cocteau no less) has a small bar that serves refreshments--soft drinks, cocktails, and tarts--that you can enjoy in the winter garden. The Opéra Bastille has launched a series of events that it calls Casse-Croûte à l'Opéra (a snack at the opera). Every Thursday at lunchtime, stop in and listen to a concert by the orchestra or a talk/debate with an opera professional, and perhaps enjoy a light lunch from the bar. Entrance is free; the cost of a sandwich, drink, and dessert is about $9.25.The mix of food and art naturally leads us to Galerie Fraîch'Attitude, which specializes in "Eat Art," art that uses food as its inspiration, subject, or material. Some of the exhibitions are actually edible and are meant to disappear into visitors' stomachs, to be re-created the next day. Most Parisians are city kids who shudder at the thought of spending more than a day in the country, and yet the first ray of sun sends them hunting for a patch of green on which to picnic with friends. A popular spot is Le Pont des Arts, a wood and cast-iron footbridge across the Seine linking the 1st and 6th districts. If it's too crowded, go farther up to the Quai St-Bernard, on the south bank of the Seine in the 5th. Beyond the large grassy areas and beautiful river view, the main attraction is the dancing arenas, where professionals and amateurs dance the summer nights away in a whirlwind of salsa, tango, and samba. Another favorite is the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont in the 19th, an arrondissement of hidden treasures. The park offers breathtaking landscapes and happens to be the steepest in Paris. Some argue that this makes picnicking a challenge, but such is the spice of life. Paris is rediscovering a pleasure in cooking, prompting the creation of a number of classes that adopt a modern approach: The goal is to give you the basics so you can have fun in your kitchen and entertain without stress. Fred Chesneau, founder of L'Atelier de Fred, teaches small groups of up to six in a darling neo-rococo kitchen. The Bergerault brothers at L'Atelier des Chefs do it on a larger scale in a lofty glass-roof workshop, complete with bookstore and boutique. In both cases, you cook your meal and eat it, too. If it's wine you'd like to learn about, Lavinia has a free tasting every Saturday and gives tasting classes for all levels. (Prices range from $38 to $177.) At Legrand Filles et Fils, a wine store constructed in 1880, you can sign up for a series of courses or attend a single session to discover one region or producer. (All classes will work to accommodate English-speaking students upon request.)Le Fooding is a Parisian movement that promotes new ways to eat, cook, and even think about food (lefooding.com). Events are either free or very inexpensive and involve the hottest chefs and the trendiest locations: wandering wine tastings with nibbles, market stands serving delectable soups, giant picnics on the banks of the Seine.Paris is also home to a number of food shows, unique opportunities to meet producers, taste products, and possibly bring something home. The Salon Saveurs (held in May and December) showcases a great array of artisanal foods, while independent French vintners present their wines at the Salon des Vins des Vignerons Indépendants (held in April and November). As for the Salon du Chocolat (in October), it is a chocoholic's dream come true.For the latest trends, restaurant reviews, shopping tips, and events, Parisians pick up the free weekly paper A Nous Paris (distributed on Tuesday mornings in the Métro) and the city magazine Zurban ($1.25, published on Wednesdays and sold at newsstands), which also includes listings for movies, concerts, plays, and art shows. In French only, bien sûr!   Musée Jacquemart-André 158 bd Haussmann, 8th arr., 011-33/1-45-62-11-59, musee-jacquemart-andre.com, admission $12, lunch $19   Palais de Tokyo 13 av du Président Wilson, 16th arr., 011-33/1-47-23-38-86, palaisdetokyo.com, exhibit admission $8, sea bream $23   Théâtre Edouard VII 10 place Edouard VII, 9th arr., tickets 011-33/1-47-42-59-92; Café Guitry, 011-33/1-40-07-00-77, theatreedouard7.com, lamb tajine $26   Studio 28 10 rue Tholozé, 18th arr., 011-33/1-46-06-36-07, cinemastudio28.com, tart $9.25   Opéra Bastille 120 rue de Lyon, 12th arr., 011-33/1-72-29-35-35, operadeparis.fr   Galerie Fraîch'Attitude 60 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 10th arr., 011-33/1-49-49-15-15, fraichattitude.com   L'Atelier de Fred 6 rue des Vertus, 3rd arr., 011-33/1-40-29-46-04, latelierdefred.com, two-hour classes $79   L'Atelier des Chefs 10 rue Penthièvre, 8th arr., 011-33/1-53-30-05-82, latelierdeschefs.com, classes from $20   Legrand Filles et Fils 1 rue de la Banque, 2nd arr., 011-33/1-42-60-07-12, caves-legrand.com, events from $13   Salon Saveurs 011-33/1-46-05-80-77, salonsaveurs@free.fr, admission $10.50   Salon des Vins des Vignerons Indépendants 011-33/1-53-02-05-10, vigneron-independant.com, admission $8   Salon du Chocolat chocoland.com, admission $15.75

Ken and Cathy Robertson of Springdale, Ark., take at least one major vacation per year with their triplet sons, Brock, Connor, and Quinn. They've been on cruises and to big cities, but the majority of their adventures have involved the great outdoors--the Everglades, a Colorado guest ranch, and Yellowstone, to name a few. "When the boys got old enough, I put together several options and we voted on where to go," says Ken. "It's become a tradition. Every year when we return from a vacation, I have a list of possibilities for future trips ready." Once a consensus is reached, Ken starts compiling information on flights, hotels, and sights in a spreadsheet. The boys usually help out with the planning, poking through guidebooks and brochures and weighing in. Alaska has been on the family's wish list for years, and this summer Ken and Cathy are finally going to make it happen. "There's so much we want to experience, but it's all so expensive," said Ken, who works in the Sam's Club division of Wal-Mart and knows a thing or two about saving money. "We're struggling to find the best value and the best combination of things to do. I know it's not going to be cheap. I just want to get my money's worth." They've allotted two weeks for the trip. Their first idea was to start with a one-week cruise, but they were worried that it would eat up too much time, and that the boys might grow bored after a few days. We suggested that they fly to Anchorage for a land-based trip that still includes some time on the water. There's no getting around the fact that Alaska is pricey, especially in the summer, so we put together an itinerary that balances the bargains and the splurges. We recommended a loop from Anchorage: down the Kenai Peninsula, a ferry ride across Prince William Sound to Valdez, and then a leisurely drive to Denali National Park before heading back to Anchorage. Such a trip can be hurried through in a week, so the Robertsons should have plenty of time for fun and flexibility, which Cathy will surely appreciate. (Ken tells us that he sometimes plans things a little too tightly for his wife's liking, "as she often reminds me.") On the way south to the Kenai Peninsula, the first stop is the Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge--specifically Potter Marsh, where there's a boardwalk for viewing moose, waterfowl, and spawning salmon. Less than 15 minutes farther is Beluga Point, a playground for whales. At high tide, there are sometimes two dozen 13-foot beluga whales right offshore. We reminded the boys to periodically look up at the land side of the road, because the steep rocks are a favorite spot for Dall sheep. The Robertsons wanted to get on the water, so we pointed them to a day cruise in Resurrection Bay and Kenai Fjords with Native American-owned Kenai Fjords Tours. This is the Cliff's Notes version of Alaska: enough glaciers to make you feel as though it's the Ice Age, as well as puffins, seals, sea lions, and maybe even humpback whales. "The boys are super-excited to try dog sledding," says Ken. "They think it looks like the coolest thing in the world." They're right. A single 50-pound dog can haul a 500-pound sled by itself and still wag its tail the entire time. In Seward, a company called IdidaRide takes customers on two-mile wilderness runs (the sleds are on wheels because there's no snow, but it's a fun ride nonetheless). The boys should also end up happily covered in dog fur after touring the kennels and playing with the puppies. One of the first things that got all of the Robertsons jazzed to go to Alaska was the chance to see the salmon run--and the dozens of bears fishing--in the streams at Katmai National Park. "The whole family is really into wildlife and nature," says Ken. The problem is that no roads lead to Katmai, and the cost for a seaplane and tour is very, very steep; even day trips run more than $500 per person. But there are less-expensive alternatives. Traveling in July, the Robertsons will likely see bears by the roadside, at streams, and throughout Denali National Park. Talon Air Service flies out of Soldotna, on the west coast of the Kenai Peninsula, to a remote area where bears feed on spawning salmon. There's a near guarantee of encountering a grizzly bear. The six-hour tour is just under $300 a person. Gwin's Lodge, in Cooper Landing (roughly in the middle of the Kenai), is a good base for exploring the peninsula. The kids will love the loft beds; Mom and Dad can hike up to Russian River Falls to watch leaping salmon and maybe spot a moose. Cabins big enough for the family are $199 in peak season. The Robertsons opted out of a full cruise, but they can still hit the open water on the Alaska Marine Highway. We warned them that advance reservations are essential, especially since they'll be taking along a car. They'll hop on the AMH at Whittier and cruise across Prince William Sound to Valdez, a journey of roughly five hours. From Valdez, the family will drive past the waterfalls of Keystone Canyon to the Glennallen Junction. There they have a choice of heading north along Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, one of the largest protected wilderness areas in the world, up to Fairbanks and the chance to look over reindeer, caribou, and shaggy musk oxen at a farm run by the University of Alaska; or going west past Matanuska Glacier and the Chugach Icefields (nearly the size of New Hampshire) back to Anchorage. Either way, it'll take at least two days on the road from Valdez to reach the centerpiece of the trip, Denali National Park and Mount McKinley, the continent's tallest mountain. There's no telling when they'd want to stop, so instead of making reservations, we told the Robertsons to find a motel or campsite whenever it felt right. Private cars are only allowed in a small part of Denali, so to really see the place, it's necessary to get on one of the park's converted school buses. Kids under 15 go free on most tours, including the all-day trip to Wonder Lake (note: reserve early). The drive is filled with jaw-dropping landscapes of glaciers and tundra, and there are chances to spot Toklat grizzly bears, caribou, and wolves. From the lake, the mountain is so big it looks like a wall--when the weather cooperates, that is. Only about a quarter of visitors ever actually see Mount McKinley, which is so massive that it makes its own weather; it seems particularly fond of clouds. The Robertsons still wanted more excitement, so we told them about Nenana Raft Adventures. Based right outside Denali, it runs rafting trips on Class III and IV rapids--not unlike combining a cold shower with a roller coaster. "It's probably gonna cost me, but I've gotta get the boys up in a plane for the scenery," says Ken. K2 Aviation, in Talkeetna, gives a reason to splurge: The operation's Denali Grand Tour route loops all the way around Mount McKinley and includes a glacier landing. The cost is $265 a person, but worth every penny. Back in Talkeetna, the family can feast on moose or caribou burgers at the West Rib Pub & Grill. In summer, the sun doesn't go down until after 10 p.m., so there'll be plenty of daylight left for more adventures. Have an awesome time! How was your trip? Last fall we coached six members of the Red Hat Society on a trip to London for shopping, sightseeing, and pub hopping. Here they are with the faux Fab Four at Madame Tussauds. "We came back with fantastic memories," says Lucille McCaie, one of the ladies from Fitchburg, Mass. "Your tips were helpful. There was just too much to do--we ran out of time." Alaska Transportation Alaska Marine Highway 800/642-0066, ferryalaska.com, Whitter to Valdez $85, car from $102 Denali Park Reservations 800/622-7275, reservedenali.com, bus ride to Wonder Lake $32.50, kids under 15 free Lodging Gwin's Lodge Cooper Landing, 907/595-1266, gwinslodge.com Denali Grizzly Bear Cabins and Campground 907/683-2696, denaligrizzlybear.com, family cabins $188 Food West Rib Pub & Grill 100 Main St., Talkeetna, 907/733-3663 Attractions Kenai Fjords Tours Seward, 800/478-8068, alaskaheritagetours.com, $129 K2 Aviation 800/733-2291, flyk2.com IdidaRide Seward, 800/478-3139, ididaride.com, $49, kids $24 Talon Air Service Soldotna, 907/262-8899, talonair.com, $295, 12 and under $275 Large Animal Research Station Mile 2, Yankovich Rd., Fairbanks, 907/474-7640, uaf.edu/lars Nenana Raft Adventures Mile 238, Parks Hwy., Healy, 800/789-7238, raftdenali.com, from $75 Resources Alaska Travel Industry Association travelalaska.com