Trip Coach: Dec. 13, 2005

B.A.'s most sophisticated and traditionally upper-class neighborhood. Apart from being the resting place of Evita Perón, Recoleta is also full of chic apartment buildings, boutiques, cafes and restaurants. SEE Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos AiresAvenida Presidente Figueroa Alcorta 3415, 011-54-11/4808-6500, malba.org.arIf you go to only one art museum in the city, MALBA should be the one. Opened in 2001, the state-of-the-art building houses 20th-century and contemporary art from all over Latin America. Exhibitions vary, but the permanent collection has more than 270 works, including masterpieces by Diego Rivera, Fernando Botero, and Antonio Berni. Open Thurs.-Mon., noon-8 p.m., $2.40. Free on Wed. from noon-9 p.m., students always free with ID. Closed Tues. SEE Plaza FranciaAvenida del Libertador and Avenida PueyrredónMore of a grassy slope than a traditional "plaza," indie rock and reggae musicians congregate here on Sat. and Sun., while vendors hawk regional crafts, such as knives with handmade leather handles and traditional maté cups. Locals like to vegetate on the lawn and sip maté, weather permitting. SEE Recoleta CemeteryCalle Junín 1760, 4803-1594Eva Peron's surprisingly discreet family tomb has made the graveyard one of the most famous landmarks in B.A. There's a lot more to investigate, from ostentatious mausoleums to unkempt and eerie underground tombs with exposed coffins. Open daily 7 a.m.-5:45 p.m. Free. EAT Los Porteños Avenida General Las Heras 2101, 4809-3548An old-school, wood-paneled B.A. bistro a block away from the Recoleta Cemetery serving everything from cuts of grilled meat to pizza. It's perfect for dropping in any time of day or night. A good place for a morning coffee and to read up on regional news in the Buenos Aires Herald. Window signs feature the classic porteño rounded script. Open Mon.-Thurs. until 1:30 a.m., Fri.-Sat. until 7 a.m. EAT R.M. Ortiz Opposite the main entrance to Recoleta Cemetery The good restaurants that line this short street all have private terrace patios (a rarity in the neighborhood). The area is touristy, but between the great outdoor seating and plentiful grilled Argentine steaks ($8-10), you won't be sorry you made the trip. SPLURGE Au Bec FinCalle Vicente López 1827, 011-54-11/4807-3765, aubecfin.com.ar A 1920s mansion restaurant that has an opulent, belle epoque dining room with crimson carpets and walls, and rounded settees. The crab-stuffed trout (trucha) or the chateaubriand beef with goat-cheese gratinée from the French-heavy menu are both superb. $16 for full lunch menu, around $40 for dinner. DRINK MiliónCalle Paraná 1048, 011-54-11/4815-9925, milion.com.ar Taking up three stories of a converted mansion, this posh bar has high ceilings, high-backed armchairs, and engraved wood finishing. There's a long list of cocktails, and beers are $2. Seats in the candlelit garden are hard to come by in warm weather. Note: Bring the address with you; there are no signs for Milión on the street. SHOP Buenos Aires DesignAvenida Pueyrredón 2501, 011-54-11/5777-6000, designrecoleta.com.ar Design aficionados love the mall at the northeast corner of Recoleta Cemetery. Visit and you could end up walking out with a leather folding chair or a tepee-like lamp made of metal rods. If you're not in the market to buy, it's worth going for its gorgeous balconies and cafés overlooking Plaza Francia. SHOP El Ateneo Grand SplendidAvenida Santa Fe 1860, corner Avenida Callao, 011-54-11/4813-6052Claims to be the largest bookstore in Latin America. For 80 years it was a majestic cinema/theater, aptly named the Grand Splendid. In 2000, it was renovated into a beautiful bookstore; its many titles and gold-gilt balconies make it a worthwhile visit for bookworms and cineastes alike. Most books are in Spanish, but there are some in English, French, and Portuguese. SHOP Patio BullrichAvenida del Libertador 750, 011-54-11/4814-7400An elegant, upscale mall with marble floors, tall pillars, and lots of greenery. In addition to international brands like Cacharel and Dolce & Gabbana, you'll also find the best Argentine designers, such as Rapsodia, known for its bohemian chic. PLAY Mint LoungeAvenida Costanera Rafael Obligado and Avenida Sarmiento (Punta Carrasco), 011-54-11/4807-1010 A spacious, sleek club where the best features are the grand windows and the terrace overlooking the Plata River. DJs favor house music and the latest releases. Opens at 1 a.m. on Fri. and Sat. only. Cover from $5.20. PLAY Punta Carrasco Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado and Avenida Sarmiento, 011-54-11/4807-1010, puntacarrasco.com.ar Hit the upscale sports club for a dip if you can't take the South American heat. The river's-edge complex has three outdoor pools better suited for posing than swimming laps. Open daily 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Mon.-Fri. $4.50, Sat. and Sun. $7.65.

Palermo is the 'it' neighborhood. In recent years it transformed from a family-oriented barrio to the hive of bohemian and fashion activity in B.A. To the west lies the residential area of Chacarita. SEE Bosques de PalermoOne of the many parks in the northeast section of the neighborhood. In one swath of greenery you'll find botanical and Japanese gardens, a zoo, and a hippodrome. A terrific place to spend an afternoon. SEE Plaza ArmeniaA favorite weekend hangout that's unknowingly skipped by tourists but packed with young professionals who fill the artsy cafés and restaurants that border it. Sidewalk terraces are crammed with people and with vendors selling their wares (mainly cheap, trendy jewelry). EAT Lelé de TroyaCalle Costa Rica 4901, 011-54-11/4832-2726There's a room to suit your every mood in this fun, super-inexpensive Argentine/Mediterranean restaurant-red, green, yellow, and blue to be exact. Feeling amorous? Sit on couches in the boudoir-style red room and savor the house specialty, lomo croquante-crispy tenderloin wrapped in phyllo with mushroom mousse and spinach. EAT Pizza Que?Calle Charcas 4037, 011-54-11/4833-3165Rich, stone oven-baked pizzas. Rough wooden tables and candlelight add to the bohemian ambience. Perfect on a cold night; grab a beer with your pie and stay into the wee hours. SPLURGE CabernetCalle Jorge Luis Borges 1757, 011-54-11/4831-3071Sophisticated Argentine-Mediterranean food that's earned a local following. The chef's specialties are a rich lobster-asparagus risotto and an unusually delicious lomo cabernet, medallions of beef wrapped in cured ham with a mushroom and wine reduction. Sit on the stone-paved patio amid lush greenery in summer, or in wood-paneled elegance next to a fireplace in the colder months. A fine four-course meal with wine, coffee, and impeccable service runs $35 per person. DRINK CarnalCalle Niceto Vega 5511, 011-54-11/4772-7582Go early (10 p.m.) to get a table, otherwise you'll stand the whole night. There's a stellar rooftop patio, with rattan recliners. Afterward, head across the street to continue the party at Club 69 (see Niceto Vega, below). DRINK Plaza SerranoOfficially named Plaza Julio Cortazar, the square is lined with some of the city's best bars, cafés, and cocktail lounges. In good weather, the patio chairs come out and the party sprawls onto the street. SHOP Calle GurruchagaBetween Calle Costa Rica and Calle HondurasOver a dozen funky menswear boutiques line this strip, with everything from vintage garb to edgy designer suits. There are also some excellent women's stores along the way, as well as stores selling stylish Argentine brands like Airborn and Felix. SHOP Calle MurilloBetween Calle Malabia and Calle AcevedoA street outside of the city center that's the best place to get a leather jacket made to measure. The easiest way to get there is to take a cab. Just say "Calle Murillo," and they'll know what you mean. The best deals are at Murillo 666 (Calle Murillo 666, 011-54-11/4855-2024). PLAY Los CardonesCalle Jorge Luis Borges 2180, 011-54-11/4777-1112At this traditional open mic (peña), the clientele is likely to burst into song or dance as the night goes on. Listen to live folk music while you dine on regional treats like tamales or humitas (cornhusks filled with spicy ground beef or mashed corn). Good food, wine, and entertainment for around $7. The more the merrier! Reservations recommended. PLAY Niceto VegaCalle Niceto Vega 5510, 011-54-11/4779-9396Hip-hop dancers and a burlesque cabaret troupe (together called Club 69) get the party revved up at this hot club on Thursday nights. It oozes coolness and is loads of fun. Don't get there before 1 a.m., and plan to stay all night. $7-$9. MATÉ Maté refers to the cup in which an herbal brew called yerba is shared. The yerba leaves come from a shrub and when covered with hot water, they produce a bitter, earthy-tasting drink. In a group, the cebador is the person who serves the maté to everyone else. Drink it plain (amargo) or with sugar (dulce) any time of day.

B.A.'s most old-fashioned and touristy neighborhoods. Artists, intellectuals and antique vendors still flock to San Telmo. Nestled by the city's southern port, La Boca was founded by Italian immigrants. SEE CaminitoDocks from Avenida Don Pedro de Mendoza to Calle Olavarría Evoking bygone days in La Boca, this alleyway lined with rickety primary-colored houses, artists selling canvases, and tango performers is the stuff of postcards. It's best to visit in the daytime only; the street's after-dark reputation is dicey. EAT El FederalCalle Carlos Calvo 599, 011-54-11/4300-4313Fabulous porteño bistro with loads of old-world features, such as a recessed floor behind the bar-the bartender peers up at you as he pours. A great place to sample a traditional B.A. grill menu, or to sip gancia con limón (a popular lemony Italian aperitif). Alcoholic drinks come with free munchies, like olives, and palitos-salty chip-like snacks made from wheat and corn. DRINK Calle ChileBlocks between Calle Defensa and Avenida Paseo ColónOn summer evenings especially, locals and tourists alike cram the many sidewalk patios along this street. Its simple cafés and restaurants are known for their generous pitchers of beer. Ignore the slow service and soak up the scene. DRINK GibraltarCalle Perú 895, 011-54-11/4362-5310A hip pub with excellent beers on tap, which are two for one 6 p.m.-10 p.m. And while you will always find a Brit somewhere on the premises, Argentines also enjoy this small slice of England. Great pub grub such as fish-and-chips, too. DRINK Plaza DorregoPrices at the cafés lining this historic square are marked up thanks to tourism. But as you sip your drink, watch tango, or listen to buskers, it's not hard to see why. European-style apartment buildings with wrought-iron balconies overlook the dramatic public space, and on summer nights the plaza erupts into one giant party. SHOP Paseo del 900 Calle Defensa 834An indoor market that's a clutter of antique and jewelry vendors. Old Argentine posters and photos of icons like Che Guevara and Brigitte Bardot fill this veritable museum of memorabilia. SHOP San Telmo Sunday FairThe antiques fair crowds Plaza Dorrego with nostalgia and romance. People come in search of old plates, costume jewelry, and knickknack collectibles. Strains of live tango provide the perfect soundtrack. Merchandise is almost always marked up at this tourist hub on Sundays; bartering recommended. PLAY Centro Cultural Torquato TassoCalle Defensa 1575, 011-54-11/4307-6506A good bet for cheaper, less touristy tango performances. The cultural center has a varied schedule of music and dance performances. It also hosts milongas, or social events open to the public where tangueros of all levels come to practice their moves. Closed Mon.-Wed. $1.75-$6.25. PLAY Club MuseumCalle Perú 535, 011-54-11/4618-1670A large, popular nightclub in a national historical monument. Finished in 1916, the former factory was constructed under the direction of Alexandre Gustave Eiffel, of Eiffel Tower fame. The metal beams and balconies will remind you of his most well-known work. $7 for women, $8.70 for men, dinner included for $10 more. SPLURGE Michelangelo Catedral del TangoCalle Balcarce 433, 011-54-11/4342-7007, michelangelotango.comFine Argentine cuisine and elaborate tango shows performed by top-notch dancers. The renovated stone warehouse evokes a pseudo-illicit theme. Step into the large cellar-like basement and you enter a romanticized version of tango's history in the bordellos, slums, and streets of B.A. Slightly touristy, but good fun. Thurs.-Sun., 8 p.m.-12 a.m. Dinner and show from $63/person. PUERTO MADERO This trendy walkway of restaurants in Buenos Aires's port is the place to be for porteños with thick wallets and fine palettes. The once rough-and-tumble dock has achieved full gentrification; it's now modernized, and brick buildings have been converted into restaurants and apartments. But there's still a budget find: Siga La VacaPuerto Madero, Alicia Moreau de Justo 1714, 011-54-11/4315-6801(Also in Recoleta: Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado 6340, 011-54-11/4781-4704)This chainlet has become an institution in Buenos Aires, and it's no wonder, with such plentiful quantities of good food and drink for next to nothing. Stuff yourself silly on all the salad and grilled meat you can eat (beef, pork, chicken), plus get a dessert and your choice of a bottle of wine or a pitcher of soda or beer for $8.30.

Adjacent to the ritzy Recoleta neighbhorhood, only quieter and more residential, with countless charming places to eat, drink, and while away an afternoon. EAT CumanáCalle Rodríguez Peña 1149, 011-54-11/4813-9207The main draws are the meat and vegetable cazuelas (casseroles) baked in a stone oven. Those made with lentejas (lentils) are especially hearty and delicious. Warning: Vegetarians should beware of "unadvertised" pork in the seemingly all-veggie dishes. Expect crowds and slow service, but you can doodle with crayons while you wait. EAT La CholitaCalle Rodríguez Peña 1165, 011-54-11/4815-4506The Argentinean yuppie's version of the neighborhood parilla (or grill). It's fun, but can get crowded and loud. Try maté, the traditional bitter herbal drink, here in the afternoon. It's even served with a bombilla, an ornate silver straw. DRINK Clásica y ModernaAvenida Callao 892, 011-54-11/4811-3670, clasicaymoderna.comA bookstore that originally opened in 1938 is now a café, bar, restaurant, and art gallery rolled into one. On weekends, the cozy bohemian venue features live jazz or tango performances. From $7 per performance. DRINK The ShamrockCalle Rodríguez Peña 1220, 011-54-11/4812-3584, theshamrockbar.comAn Irish pub with few Celtic reminders besides beer paraphernalia. Tourists and locals love it. The lure? A daily happy hour that lasts until midnight. Thursday nights are especially hopping. SHOP A&G Avenida Santa Fe 1725, 011-54-11/4811-8567, aygstore.com.ar Custom-cut bikinis that tend to offer more coverage than the more common floss-like variety. For pool and beach emergencies, A&G can have your new suit ready and delivered to your hotel in four hours. $14 for bikini and delivery. SHOP Galería Quinta (Fifth) AvenidaAvenida Santa Fe 1270, 011-54-11/4816-0451If you're lucky, you can find a leather jacket for less than $35 in this vintage clothing mall, which also has boutiques that sell funky shoes and clothes with psychedelic prints. SPLURGE Aqua Vita Medical SpaCalle Arenales 1965, 011-54-11/4812-5989, aquavitamedicalspa.comGet pampered for five straight hours with this luxurious water-themed spa's Anti-Stress Day package, which includes full-body exfoliation, algae body wrap, aroma hydrotherapy, deep-tissue massage, shiatsu facial, reflexology, and much more. A ridiculous value for $134. If all you want is a steam bath and a one-hour massage, it costs $38. SOCCER El fútbol in Argentina is world-class. Not only is the country home to soccer legend Diego Maradona, but it also has won two World Cups. Argentina has 20 teams in its premier division (many of which are concentrated in greater B.A.) that compete at both national and international levels. The most famous and the most heated matches are between the two main opposing teams from the capital, the Boca Juniors and River Plate. The season is divided into two parts, the apertura (opening) from August to December and the clausura (closing) from February to July. Most matches are on Sundays. It's also possible to tour the city's main stadium. La Bombonera Stadium & MuseumCalle Brandsen 805, 011-54-11/4515-0651 (stadium), 011-54-11/4362-1100 (museum), museoboquense.comHome to the Boca Juniors. Maradona has long left the team, but Boca spirit lives on. Open daily 10 a.m.-6 p.m., $4.40 for stadium tour. Tickets for all premier matches start at around $10 and can be purchased at the stadium, but it's easier to go through a tour agency. Tangol ToursCalle Florida 971, No. 59 (1st Floor), 011-54-11/4312-7276, tangol.com Organized match tours remove the stress of finding the stadiums and seating, while also providing local soccer lore. $31 for transportation to/from your hotel, game tickets, an English-speaking guide, and a lesson in fútbol etiquette.