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Manly's apt motto is "Seven miles from Sydney, a million miles from care." The north shore has beautiful beaches and casual eating. It's also home to Sydney's zoo and a patch of eucalyptus forests. SEE Manly BeachManly Visitor Information Centre, 011-61-2/9976-1430. Take a JetCat or ferry to Manly from Circular Quay; the beach is an easy walk from the ferry terminal. A mile-long strip of seashore where gorgeous surfers while away the days. You can rent surfboards (try Dripping Wet Surf Company, 93-95 North Steyne, Shop 2, 011-61-2/9977-3549, drippingwetsurf.com; $34 per day) or join an impromptu game of beach volleyball. The three surf clubs along the beach have showers and bathrooms. The 1.5-mile walk from Queenscliff at the north end of Manly to southern Shelley Beach is lovely. SEE Taronga ZooBradleys Head Rd., 011-61-2/9969-2777, zoo.nsw.gov.au No other zoo in the world has a backdrop like Sydney Harbour. Look for native fauna-koalas, kangaroos, and platypuses. $23, $12 kids, ages 4 and under free. SPLURGE Seaplane Safaris011-61-2/9371-3577, seaplanesafaris.com.au Fly from Rose Bay to national park-fringed Cottage Point Inn for a decadent lunch of, say, panfried wild kingfish followed by a raspberry soufflé with white chocolate ice cream. The four-hour tour includes the 15-minute flight each way and lunch, plus the rush of landing on water. At $308 per person (minimum two people), it's no cheap thrill; a 10-minute sightseeing flight (about $85) is more wallet-friendly. EAT Bathers Pavilion Café4 The Esplanade, Balmoral Beach, 011-61-2/9969-5050, batherspavilion.com.auThe essential Sydney view of a picturesque beach and a sea of sails on Middle Harbour is best soaked up during weekend brunch or lunch at this light-filled café. Louvered windows face the beach, and the salt air stirs up a hunger for French-Canadian chef Serge Dansereau's cooking. Try the oven-baked beans with ham hock (his dad's recipe) for breakfast, or lentil-and-taleggio ravioli for lunch. EAT Manly Wharf Hotel East Esplanade, Manly Wharf, 011-61-2/9977-1266, manlywharfhotel.com.auUpmarket pub food-such as blue swimmer crab risotto and overflowing seafood platters-by the water's edge. The Jetty Bar, on the original wharf and overlooking the harbor, is the pick of the hotel's three watering holes. EAT Whitewater35 South Steyne, 011-61-2/9977-0322Flying Fish designer Michael McCann did the beach house-style interior of this newcomer to Manly's dining scene. The menu is a mix of modern Australian and Asian dishes; steamer baskets of Cantonese-style duck in wheat pancakes are all the rage. There are comfy padded white seats, fruity cocktails, and a gas fireplace in the bar. DRINK Newport Arms HotelCorner of Beaconsfield and Kalinya Sts., 011-61-2/9997-4900, newportarms.com.auThe social hub of the northern beaches and Australia's largest beer garden. Everything is big about this place, from the three children's playgrounds to its beer selection-there are some 18 on tap. Set above the idyllic Pittwater estuary. DRINK Steyne Hotel75 The Corso, Manly, 011-61-2/9977-4977, steynehotel.com.auSeagulls, sunshine, fish and chips, and cold beer. There are nine bars in all, spread over two levels. Head to Stage One upstairs for simple steak-and-salad-style meals overlooking the beach, or visit on Tuesdays and Thursday nights for $9 pizzas. You can stay here, too: Comfortable ocean-view rooms cost $99 double, including breakfast. PLAY Bradleys Head WalkFrom Taronga Zoo wharf (take ferry from Circular Quay) to Chowder HeadAn easy-to-negotiate 1.3-mile walk through eucalyptus forests and past the old cannons that once defended Sydney. Just follow the shoreline from the ferry wharf and pack a picnic to enjoy at Bradleys Head, which looks back toward the city. PLAY North Sydney Olympic Pool4 Alfred St. South, Milsons Point, 011-61-2/9955-2309, northsydney.nsw.gov.auAn unforgettable swim on the harbor's edge, flanked by the bridge and the kaleidoscopic colors of Luna Park (Sydney's version of Coney Island). The massive pool complex also has a sauna, spa, and gym, and has been the training ground for many an Olympic champ. $3.70. ESCAPE Shark IslandIn the middle of Sydney Harbour, Shark Island is an underappreciated gem that's perfect for an afternoon picnic. Hop a ferry to the island (matilda.com.au, click on Ferry Services, $12 round trip), and within 20 minutes you'll feel miles away from the city-even though the Harbour Bridge and Sydney Opera House are just visible in the distance. There are picnic shelters and restrooms on the island, and a little beach for swimming. Free.

These eastern beaches are connected by the scenic Cliff Walk. Sweeping ocean views make unforgettable dining experiences, while surfing, swimming, and finely tuned Aussie bodies have their own appeal. SEE Clifftop Walk from Bondi to CoogeeEnter from Notts Ave., at Bondi A five-mile trek connects the two crescent-shaped beaches, passing glitzy Tamarama, Bronte, and Clovelly beaches along the way. Million-dollar homes teeter above the sea, and fitness freaks pound the walk on weekends, despite the crowds. EAT Barzura 62 Carr St., 011-61-2/9665-5546, barzura.com.auThe promise of sun-filled lunches on the terrace of this busy diner attracts swimmers and family groups to the best eating spot in Coogee. Plunk yourself down and enjoy a burger with beet relish-even if you're in a swimsuit. EAT Sean's Panaroma270 Campbell Parade, 011-61-2/9365-4924Great for lazy weekend lunches and end-of-week (Wed.-Sat.) dinners among moneyed Bondi types and foodies. In the humble setting-12 tables, no-frills decor-chef Sean Moran turns out treats such as guinea fowl stuffed with chestnuts and white-chocolate-and-rosemary nougat. SPLURGE Icebergs Dining Room and Bar1 Notts Ave., 011-61-2/9365-9000, idrb.comA phenomenal dining experience at the southernmost point of Bondi Beach. Sweeping ocean vistas through floor-to-ceiling windows, and an equally impressive Mediterranean menu, with standouts like Livorno fish stew and salt-crusted rib-eye steak. About $115 per person for a three-course dinner with wine. EAT Beach Road Hotel71 Beach Rd., Bondi, 011-61-2/9130-7247A surfer hangout just blocks from the beach. Pool tables, big-screen TVs, and a sports betting agency keep everyone happy. EAT Ravesi's118 Campbell Parade, 011-61-2/9365-4422, ravesis.com.auThe glass walls of this trendy hotel bar provide a view of the showy promenade, creating an ideal spot to see and be seen. SHOP Tuchuzy90 Gould St., 011-61-2/9365-5371, tuchuzy.comPronounced "too choosy," the boutique stocks relaxed, beach-babe outfits, from flirty skirts to bikinis (Hallican Boodie's '70s-era versions). Visiting stars such as Claire Danes and Lara Flynn Boyle have shopped here; Vin Diesel dropped by its menswear store next door. PLAY Clovelly BeachTake a 339 bus from the city, on Castlereagh St. near Martin Place, or walk south from Bondi, about three miles A snorkeling and diving heaven. In the summer months (Dec.-Mar.) tropical currents meet temperate water, providing an atypical mix of diverse species of marine life. Look for giant blue groper, wobbegong sharks, angelfish, and whales. Deep 6 Diving organizes expeditions with dive gear, snorkels, and fins (351-355 Clovelly Rd., 011-61-2/9665-7427, deep6diving.com.au, $250 for one-day open water training and certification). PLAY Coogee's Rock PoolsThese swimming holes were carved out of sandstone, with a little human help. The women-only McIvers Baths is run by the Randwick-Coogee Ladies Swimming Club (15¢, free swimming lessons on Sat.); Wylie's Baths has lap lanes, $3. PLAY Let's Go Surfing 011-61-2/9365-1800, letsgosurfing.com.auRuns beginner classes at Bondi for groups of six or fewer. Learn surf safety and basic skills before being let loose. A two-hour lesson costs $49. Lost in Translation In "strine," Australia's colorful slang, words are shortened and phrases smushed together. For more, especially of the naughty sort, try koalanet.com.au/australian-slang.html.   Ankle biter small child   Barbie barbecue   Brekky breakfast   Cozzie bathing suit   Crack a mental lose one's temper   Docket bill, receipt   Furphy rumor   Give it a burl give it a try   Gobsmacked surprised, astounded   Owyagoin? how are you?   Oz Australia   Piker someone who doesn't fit in socially   Piss beer   Tucker food   Throw a wobbly go nuts

High life and low life coexist in this happening peninsula east of the city. Glam homes, bars, and restaurants brush up against Sydney's sleazy side. SEE Elizabeth Bay House7 Onslow Ave., 011-61-2/9356-3022, hht.net.au/museumsOnce described as "the finest house in the colony," this small museum-originally built between 1835 and 1839 as a home for colonial secretary Alexander Macleay-offers intriguing insights into the early days of English settlement in Sydney. Furnishings are from the period 1839-1845. Closed Mon. $5.30. EAT Fratelli Paradiso12-16 Challis Ave., 011-61-2/9357-1744A busy neighborhood trattoria that does the best fried calamari in town-simply battered, golden, and meltingly tender. The no-reservations policy translates to perpetual lines, but the quick turnover keeps waits under half an hour. EAT Simmone Logue21 Elizabeth Bay Rd., 011-61-2/9358-2600, simmonelogue.comOn the ground floor of a smart city apartment block, this is the place to be for "Sunday roast"-a traditional Australian meal of lamb, chicken, beef, or pork (or whatever the chef decides that day), served with crispy potatoes, peas, pumpkin, and carrots, and plenty of rich, thick gravy, as well as pudding and wine. B.Y.O. wine only, $10 corkage fee per bottle. EAT Spring Espresso Bar65 Macleay St., Shop 1, 011-61-2/9331-0190So cramped it's almost uncomfortable, but people flock here anyway for a weekend brunch of scrambled eggs and smoked salmon. The outside tables are less claustrophobic. EAT Otto6 Cowper Wharf Rd., 011-61-2/9368-7488, otto.net.auFine Italian dining by the waterfront, with wines and service to match. The city's elite come to dine in sun-drenched splendor on exquisite pastas and memorable desserts, such as shortbread with mascarpone, strawberries, and Ligurian honey. First-class people-watching, too. (Russell Crowe lives at the end of the wharf.) DRINK Barons5 Roslyn St., 011-61-2/9358-6131Seedy old Kings Cross may be gentrifing, but this bar hasn't changed a lick. Tacky decor, cheap drinks, open all night. DRINK Lotus22 Challis Ave., 011-61-2/9326-0488, merivale.com/lotusA small but perfectly formed bistro that's part of the burgeoning Hemmes family empire (CBD Hotel, Establishment, Slip Inn, et al.). Its tiny, shiny bar with snakeskin-padded walls serves fine cocktails, including a Rat Pack of martinis (like the Frank and the Dino). DRINK Water BarW Hotel, 6 Cowper Wharf Rd., 011-61-2/9331-9000, starwoodhotels.comConsistently voted Sydney's best watering hole. It has a unique old-meets-new ambience. The hotel is housed in a former dockside warehouse, with soaring wooden ceilings; glass elevators ferry guests to the rooms, and drinkers recline on sleek divans. SHOP Il Papiro87A Macleay St., 011-61-2/9361-6252, ilpapirofirenze.itThe antipodean outpost of an upscale Florentine stationer known for divine marbleized diaries and notepaper with signature feather designs. PLAY Andrew (Boy) Charlton Pool1C Mrs. Macquaries Rd., The Domain Sydney 2000, 011-61-2/9358-6686, abcpool.orgNamed after a swimming legend from the 1920s. Its location-above Woolloomooloo Bay-ensures it's constantly packed. Open 6 a.m.-8 p.m., Oct. 1-Apr. 30. $3.90. ESCAPE Royal National Park 011-61-2/9542-0648, nationalparks.nsw.gov.auThe world's second-oldest national park after Yellowstone. The terrain-crisscrossed by myriad trails-varies from bushland to rain forest, craggy coastlines to tranquil riverbanks. And it's easy to reach: Take a train to Cronulla (cityrail.nsw. gov.au, about $6.60 round trip), then catch the National Parks Service's ferry to Bundeena (011-61-2/9523-2990, $7.30 round trip). $7.50 day pass for car, free otherwise. TIP: Aboriginal Art One of the world's oldest peoples, Aborigines arrived in Australia nearly 50,000 years ago from southeast Asia and fanned out, developing more than 250 regional languages as well as rich, spiritually infused artistic traditions. Today, Sydney's indigenous population numbers over 30,000, and many continue their time-honored crafts. Perennial souvenir favorites include the boomerang-originally used for hunting and fire-making-and the didgeridoo, a wind instrument created from a log hollowed out by termites. Carved and painted emu eggs, bark paintings and dot paintings of animals and plants, woven baskets, and sculptures of creator-beings are also popular. Be aware that opportunistic dealers in fake and illegally appropriated art run rampant. Stick to community arts-and-crafts centers and to galleries owned, operated, or supported by Aborigines, and do some research before you buy (mq.edu.au/house_of_aboriginality).