True Stories

March 14, 2006
Proving once and for all that travel is stranger, funnier, and more heartwarming than fiction

New Prize: Airfare to London!
If your True Stories submission is the best one that we receive before April 21, you'll win round-trip airfare for two to London's Stansted airport (a 45-minute train ride to the city center), courtesy of new all-business-class airline MAXjet. The tickets--for service out of any MAXjet departure city, including New York City's John F. Kennedy airport and Washington, D.C.'s Dulles--are valid July 1, 2006 to June 1, 2007. The prize has no cash value, and is nontransferable and nonnegotiable. Blackout dates may apply. For further information on MAXjet, visit maxjet.com or call 888/435-9629.

How to enter
  TrueStories@BudgetTravelOnline.com or True Stories, Budget Travel, 530 Seventh Ave., 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10018. We can't return photos. Read the full guidelines.

This month's winner    
This month's winner is Philip Traynor, of Fresno, Calif. His prize is a five-night equestrian vacation in Texas, from the folks at Cross Country International Equestrian Vacations.

As a young cleric in Rome, I ventured to purchase a sweater. I'd been studying Italian and decided I was ready for a test run. Dressed in my religious habit, I went to a clothing store in Trastevere. I told the young shopkeeper that I was there to buy a sweater, but instead of saying maglia, which means sweater, I said moglie, which means wife. She smiled and asked me what kind of moglie I'd like.

A moglie negra, I said--a black wife. By that time a small group of women had gathered around. She asked me to be more specific. I said I wanted a pesante negra moglie--a heavy black wife. The audience was giggling. She then asked why I wanted a heavy black wife. "Riscaldarmi," I responded--to keep me warm. Everybody howled, and the shopkeeper told me in perfect English that she might not have a heavy black wife for me but she did happen to have a very nice sweater.

You'd hate brazil
As an ordinary, but quite hairy, West Coast girl, I jumped at the opportunity for a last-minute five-day trip to Bali with my best friend. My husband, confident that my Sasquatch genes would repel any interested males, happily sent me on my way. On the first day, while touring the Tanah Lot temple, I was approached by three men, who asked if they could take a photo with me. Hesitantly, I accepted. They quickly swarmed around, nuzzling me. That's strange, I thought. On my third day, the concierge of my hotel asked if he could stroke my arm and leg, and on day four, a crazy man in traditional clothing tried to kiss me! On my final day it all began to make sense. During the taxi ride to the airport, the driver explained that body hair in Bali is a sign of femininity and that most males find it sexy. He said that in Bali I'm like a goddess--the men would build me altars and give me daily offerings and I'd never have to do anything again. Needless to say my next trip is already in the works! Megan Schutt, Blaine, Wash.

Never lift the mattress
In the countryside near Golfito, Costa Rica, I spent the night in an open-air thatched hut. My bed was a mattress on a wooden pallet raised a few feet above the ground. It was surprisingly comfortable, and the mosquito netting protected me from bugs, bats, and other flying critters. In the morning, however, I noticed that several ants were hiking up one of the bed's legs. I lifted the mattress: There was a colony of thousands of ants underneath, tending saucer-size clusters of ant eggs. John B. Kachuba, Athens, Ohio

Because she's ready to try that mallet on something bigger
Though she's not a fan of crustaceans, my 8-year-old daughter, Deena, came with me to sample blue crab at a seafood restaurant in St. Michaels, Md. Expecting a mountain of claws with drawn butter, we were shocked when our waitress arrived with whole crabs--legs, guts, eyes, and all. Deena had her mallet ready, unconvinced her crab was even dead (and to make things worse, it resembled Sebastian from The Little Mermaid). Lucky for us, our waitress expertly demonstrated proper crab picking. Eyes pinched shut, my daughter tried a morsel, then gently asked, "Do you think we could go out for chicken tonight?" Kelly Curtis, Clear Lake, Wis.

In a pinch, 10 percent of your income will do
During the second week of our honeymoon in Italy, my husband and I rented a motor scooter in Positano. Outside the hill town of Ravello, we parked and walked into the main square--only to find ourselves showered with large red paper hearts falling from the sky. We looked up: A small plane was releasing thousands of the hearts. It was without a doubt the most romantic thing that could possibly happen on a honeymoon. We picked up a heart from the ground and read the message. Roughly translated, it said, "God has granted that the only way to success is through love." Annie Porrino, San Leandro, Calif.

You can find more True Stories in the April 2006 issue of Budget Travel magazine.

Plan Your Next Getaway
Keep reading
Travel Tips

The Ultimate Guide to Free Travel

1. House-Sitting Take up residence in someone else's home Instead of waiting for your rich aunt in the Hamptons to go away and ask you to watch over her place, look into a service that lists house-sitting opportunities. If things work out, you might be chilling out at a Caribbean villa or caring for cats and hens in an adorable French farmhouse. Since retiring as a university administrator 10 years ago, Grant Thomas of Edmond, Okla., has kept an eye on houses (and pets) in Seattle, Santa Fe, and San Rafael, Calif. "House-sitting has opened up new worlds to me," he says. "I get to know a place much more in-depth, and my experiences have given me a new circle of human, canine, and feline friends across the country." Before signing on for any assignment, ask questions. Namely, who pays the bills? Many homeowners state upfront that house sitters pay for utilities, at the least. If there are pets, find out how many and what their special needs are. If there's a garden, ask how big it is and how much attention it requires. At some point, the work may make the "free" lodging not worth the trouble. Also, ask the owner for the names and contacts of previous house sitters, and grill them about the experience. Where do you find these gigs? Caretaker.org posts more than 1,000 house-sitting openings per year, most of which are in the U.S. ($30 per year to see online listings). At last check, housecarers.com listed 298 opportunities, including 117 in Australia ($45). There's also housesitworld.com, where homeowners can search for registered sitters with availability and skills that match their needs ($40). And sabbaticalhomes.com is a site where the houses are all left behind by academics on teaching assignments (free for house sitters, from $35 to post a home online). —Sophie Alexander 2. Hiking Trail Volunteers Get fresh air without paying for it Most volunteer vacations charge participants for the chance to do grunt work without pay. A few regional trail associations, however, gladly welcome anyone willing to work on hiking paths and don't ask for a dime. As thanks for volunteers' hours of sweat spent clearing debris, building rock steps, or reconfiguring switchbacks, the associations provide free campsites at a minimum. Cabins, bedding, food, and transportation are sometimes included, too. The Continental Divide Trail Alliance runs two-to-seven-day trips with catered meals at A-list national parks such as Rocky Mountain, Yellowstone, and Glacier (303/838-3760, cdtrail.org). The group's goal is to complete the trail it's named for, which is about two thirds of the way done. Some programs run by the Pacific Northwest Trail Association—which focuses on a path leading from Washington's Olympic Mountains into Montana—are free (877/854-9415, pnt.org). From Maine to Georgia, volunteers can join one- or two-week trips organized by the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (304/535-6331, appalachiantrail.org). At some locales, workers sleep in cabins with cots and electricity. —Nick Mosquera 3. Sister City Exchanges Spend time with family you never knew you had With a primary goal of promoting cultural understanding, Sister Cities International is a nonprofit network that partners hundreds of U.S. cities with international "sister" cities that have similar climates, industries, or populations (sister-cities.org). The local governments of sister cities might exchange ideas about health care, traffic circles, or playgrounds. There are also opportunities for residents to visit sister cities—sometimes totally on your hometown's dime. Every year, several Tempe, Ariz., high school students are selected to go on five-week trips to sister cities (towns can have more than one) such as Lower Hutt, New Zealand; Beaulieu-sur-Mer, France; and Zhenjiang, China. All expenses are paid, including airfare. "Within a few hours of arriving in Ireland, I felt completely at home," says Sara Bernal, a Tempe high school senior who went to Carlow, another sister city, last year. "I'd give anything to have another experience like it." Sister city visits aren't just for high school kids. Every year hundreds of groups from U.S. towns head overseas to foster bonds with international "family." Participants are expected to be active in sister city projects and host counterparts when they come to town. Travelers should expect to run fund-raisers for trips—most cities don't foot the bill, at least not entirely—though room and board are usually covered by local hosts. —Laura MacNeil 4. Workampers Use your RV to get from one job to the next Millions of RV owners are on the move year-round, and an estimated 750,000 of them couple their travels with short-term work. The wages are enough to get by (typically $8-$12 per hour), and gigs sometimes come with free places to park, including free electric hookup and other perks. The folks on the move are called workampers, and may find themselves checking in guests and overseeing ice cream socials at KOA campgrounds, or dressing up as Donald Duck at Walt Disney World. At last check, more than 700 employers posted summer jobs aimed at RVers at workamper.com, the online home of Workamper News, which has been around since 1987. Jobs tend to be at state and national parks, seasonal vacation spots, and big events such as the Indianapolis 500. Most workampers spend fewer than 20 hours per week on the job, so there's plenty of opportunity to relax and explore. —Lisa Rose 5. Driveaways Go on a road trip in someone else's car Don Jankiewicz, a 34-year-old actor in Los Angeles, has hopped behind the wheel of around 50 cars, none of which were his. He's neither a valet nor a thief. Ever since reading Jack Kerouac's On the Road in college, Jankiewicz has volunteered for driveaway duty whenever he could. A driveaway situation arises when a car owner needs his vehicle moved to a new location and either can't or doesn't want to do the driving. Rather than pay to ship the car, the owner signs his ride up for a driveaway program—essentially giving a free car rental to a volunteer. "You encounter places you never knew existed, and meet people with the most interesting stories," says Jankiewicz. "It's cheaper than any other kind of travel. No one believes this even exists anymore." Drivers usually need only to fill out an application form and present a valid driver's license and references, though some situations require that you be fingerprinted or submit a driving history (available through your DMV). For insurance reasons, drivers probably need to be at least 23. Once approved, you're handed the car keys and given a free first tank of gas. All other expenses, including gas and lodging, are yours. With 43 U.S. locations, Auto Driveaway is the country's biggest player, listing about 150 opportunities per month (800/346-2277, autodriveaway.com, $350 deposit). Some offices will even take requests for specific routes and call you if there's a car that's a match. Start inquiring a month in advance of when you'd like to hit the road, and continue checking in. Don't expect to have a completely unrestricted, carefree joyride, however. There are limits on mileage (point-to-point road distance plus 15-25 percent extra), driving time (with Auto Driveaway you're not supposed to be on the road between 10 p.m. and 5 a.m.), and trip duration (negotiated, but most people must average at least 400 miles per day). A driver on a typical 3,000-mile cross-country road trip is given seven to ten days to complete the journey, with a maximum of 3,500 miles logged on the odometer. To eliminate headaches and maximize the opportunity for fun, Jankiewicz carefully maps out his routes ahead of time, checking the Internet for construction delays and weather forecasts. —Michele Schwartz 6. Hospitality Exchanges Crash on couches and make friends along the way To most people, the idea is crazy: heading to a stranger's house to sleep on the couch or in a spare room. Perhaps even loonier: welcoming someone you've never met into your house. But thousands of people take part in hospitality exchanges, as such visits are known. Konstantinos Chalvatzis, a 25-year-old teaching assistant who lives just outside Athens, Greece, joined hospitality club Couchsurfing.com last March; the online community knows him as "Promitheus." Since then, he has welcomed about 40 strangers into his apartment, and stayed on the couches of more than 60 club members. "When people stay with me, they get a real sense of what living in Athens is like," he says. "If I have time I'll show them the big monuments, as well as residential areas, taverns, and underground art galleries." Participants come in all ages, colors, and cultures, though they tend to be male, English-speaking, and in their 20s and 30s, and hail from America, Germany, Australia, and Canada. The upside is not only free lodging but the chance to meet people who tend to be open-minded, curious, and generous. But it's not the equivalent of a free hotel, says Bryan McDonald ("Duke"), a 28-year-old musician born in Mexico who now calls Amsterdam home. "The best thing a Couchsurfer can do is spend time with his host," he says. "I've had guests cook their favorite food, or make something special from their country for me. These little things mean a lot to hosts." There are three major players in hospitality exchanges, none of which charge a membership fee. HospitalityClub.org debuted in 2000, and currently has more than 328,500 members. It features the most comprehensive security procedures; before being accepted as guests, travelers must provide full names and passport numbers. Globalfreeloaders.com, with nearly 62,000 members, pushes the idea of hosting as much as freeloading, advising members not to accept a free stay unless they can host within six months. Couchsurfing, in business since 2004 and home to 754,146 members in 229 countries, has the most technically advanced search ability. Travelers can view every possible open couch in a specified radius, rather than only by city or country, which is how the other two work. For all three clubs, hosts and couch crashers are paired up based on profiles that include languages spoken, location, and interests (from Björk to Frisbee and beyond). Many members clarify what's not acceptable—"no drugs" is a common refrain. Though safety can't be guaranteed, members post messages about how visits went. A recent note on Couchsurfing, from a Californian about an Austrian host: "Joe was my 'host with the most' in Vienna. He likes to cook for guests and even has ketchup for Americans!" —Chelan David 7. Volunteer Farm Workers Trade a day in the fields for room and board For a month in 2003, Gungsadawn Kitatikarn, of New York City, harvested kale, lettuce, carrots, strawberries, and fava beans in exchange for food and lodging at a Portuguese farm named Belgais. She worked 9 to 5 most days, with an hour lunch break that usually wound up being a communal buffet for two dozen people, and stayed in a furnished bungalow with hot showers a short walk from the main farmhouse. Someone from the ranch drove her into the nearby town of Castelo Branco when it was time for a break. "The people were lovely and respectful, and the ranch was breathtaking," she recalls. "Since I was out in the middle of nowhere in Portugal it was sometimes too quiet for a city gal. But I became comfortable with the silence, and thoroughly enjoyed it." Belgais is one of more than 4,500 organic farms around the world that provide free food and lodging for guests willing to weed, plant seeds, plow fields, dig trenches, and harvest crops. Nonprofit organization World-Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms compiles a country-by-country list of participating farms (wwoof.org). Once you pay an annual membership fee, you receive either Internet access or a mailed booklet with contact information for farms in the regions you've selected (fee varies by country; in the U.S., it's $20 for one person, or $30 for a dual membership). You then get in touch with the farm directly to negotiate how long you'll stay, what kind of work you'll do, where you'll sleep, and how much you'll be required to work. Each farm is different, but the standard for volunteers is six hours of work per day, six days per week. That doesn't leave all that much free time, but for many people, working the land in a beautiful, simple setting makes for a nice, healthy respite from their hectic lives. —Laura MacNeil 8. Rotary Club Trips Network your way to somewhere exciting Most people are vaguely aware of the Rotary Club as something local businessmen join so they can trade business cards over lunch. The truth is, the organization is huge and international, with more than 1.2 million members and 33,000 clubs in 200 countries (rotary.org). Rotary International also sponsors travelers on special trips abroad, and there are a few ways even nonmembers can take advantage of the programs. The Group Study Exchange sends groups of four business or professional people—anyone from architects to police officers—to learn about their respective professions in Mexico, Thailand, and dozens of other destinations. Rotary International pays for transportation, including airfare, and local hosts provide meals and accommodations. Applicants are required to have at least two years of experience in their field and, since the idea is to foster future business leaders, be between 25 and 40 years old. Another possibility comes in the form of Rotary clubs that pay for visitors to come into their communities as volunteer consultants of sorts. According to Rotary International, host cities look for people with "a proven level of professional or technical skills," and, depending on the situation, restaurant owners, plumbers, computer programmers, teachers, and business managers may fit the bill. An online database allows you to search the options. Finally, Rotary clubs organize some 8,000 youth exchanges per year, in which students 15 and up are hosted overseas in private homes and camps for stints of few days to several months. Room and board are covered, though airfare is not. Don't expect to jump on any Rotary-sponsored vacation right away, however. Competition for program openings is stiff, and involves a lengthy application process that can take up to a year. —Laura MacNeil 9. Home Swapping Exchange houses and live like a local The concept of home swapping is as simple as it sounds. You trade your pad for someone else's, and everyone gets a free place to stay. "If you have a sense of humor and go with the flow, home exchange will work for you," says T.T. Baker, co-author of The Home Exchange Guide, who has swapped homes five times. "If you have a narrow comfort zone, stay in a hotel." Checking references, talking over the phone with your counterpart, and having contracts clearly spelled out—especially when it comes to bills and damages—alleviate the anxiety. The right situation may require months of planning and a dose of luck. It certainly makes things easier if you live in Miami Beach, or some other spot popular with travelers. Home exchange services charge $35-$110 per year, and by joining more than one club you obviously increase your chances. Reputable companies with listings worldwide include: digsville.com; gti-home-exchange.com; homeexchange.com; intervacus.com; ihen.com; and swapnow.com. —Sophie Alexander Here's to the kindness of strangers After joining one of these clubs, you'll stay for a few dollars or free at members' homes. Most clubs also expect members to host travelers. —Lee Uehara   Educators 800/956-4822, educatorstravel.com, $36 annual fee   Gays and Lesbians 011-49/30-691-9537, lghei.org, $40 annual fee   Mensa Members 800/666-3672, us.mensa.org, $52 annual fee (plus $40 for intelligence test)   Motorcyclists 877/408-0471, motorcycle-travel.net, $30 annual fee   People Over 50 815/456-3111, evergreenclub.com, $60/single, $75/couple annual fee   Tandem Bicyclists tandemclub.org, $15 annual fee   Women 011-44/1494-465-441, womenwelcomewomen.org.uk, $67 annual fee

And With a Lease You Get That New-Car Smell

The big upside for travelers: Short-term leasing costs up to 70 percent less than renting. What's more, with a lease you receive the exact car of your choice--no "Ford Focus or similar" nonsense. Unlimited mileage and 24/7 roadside assistance are standard. There are no airport surcharges, extra driver fees, or requirements that drivers be at least 25; anyone 18 and up with a license is fine. Leases come with full insurance coverage, including Collision Damage Waiver, theft, and liability, each of which would cost $5-$25 extra per day through rental agencies. Drivers of leased cars don't even have to worry about a deductible. Leases can be booked throughout Europe with Renault, Europe By Car, and Auto Europe; the latter two also do rentals, for one-stop shopping. Among the downsides of leasing is the 17-day minimum--more vacation time than most non-Europeans receive in a year. The leasing companies have offices at most major European airports, but the options aren't as extensive as at major rental firms. Since the program is uniquely French, there are charges to pick up and drop off outside of France, ranging from $100 to $275. In a comparison of rental rates at Hertz and Avis with lease prices for the same dates in May in France, leasing was sometimes more expensive. Giving every edge we could to the rental agencies--refusing all insurance and picking up at a downtown office to avoid airport fees--the best rental quotes beat the leases on both a 17-day period ($507 versus $739) and a 30-day period ($866 versus $995). At six weeks, though, the leased car ($1,220) was 10 percent cheaper than the rental ($1,348). And when we factored in the equivalent insurance coverage from a rental agency, leasing won every time, as rentals ballooned to $1,030 (17 days), $1,814 (30 days), and $4,563 (six weeks). Even with surcharges for picking up and dropping off outside France, leasing is often still cost-effective because many countries, notably Italy and Spain, automatically include some insurance for rentals. Drivers should especially consider leasing if they're interested in a convertible, van, or other specialty vehicle. We found that leases were about 10 percent less expensive on vans, and while Avis's best 17-day rate for a convertible in Paris was $2,032, Europe By Car was charging $1,249 for a 1.6-liter Peugeot 206 coupe. As for choosing between Renault and Peugeot, Peugeots cost less, and pickup/drop-off fees outside France are $100-$190, compared to Renault's $150-$275. Yet Renault has a greater variety of vehicles, including more vans and SUVs. Europe By Car handles both brands--and for some reason regularly charges less than Renault itself does. Transportation Renault Eurodrive 800/221-1052, renaultusa.com Europe By Car 800/223-1516, europebycar.com Auto Europe 888/223-5555, autoeurope.com

Inspiration

Swingers Wanted

In the hope of filling up vacant tee times, golf courses around the country slash prices for last-minute reservations--sometimes you pay less than half the normal greens fees. Certain websites serve as clearinghouses, accepting discounted reservations at dozens of courses, generally only for the same or next day. Your best bet for openings is off-peak periods--most anytime except for weekends, holidays, and mid-mornings. Before booking, do your homework and inquire with the course for updated prices. Many sites that seem to offer discounts tack on service fees and actually charge more than the course itself. Teetimesamerica.com Well, the southern and western parts of America, anyway. That's where most of the hundreds of courses represented are located. For one last-minute search in the Phoenix area, dozens of offers appeared, with discounts of 10 to 60 percent off. Lastminutegolfer.com Discounts are available not only for next-day reservations, but also for the occasional tee time booked several weeks in advance, at hundreds of courses in Massachusetts, North Carolina, Florida, and 11 other states, as well as select locations in Canada. For same-day reservations, you'll have to call 800/671-0750. Click4teetimes.com There's a wide spectrum of discounts for southern California courses. We found savings in the San Diego area that ranged from a measly $6 off a $65 fee at The Vineyard at Escondido to more than half off the $95 fee at Riverwalk Golf Club.

Learn About Deals Before Everyone Else

Until recently, the best way to hear about new travel deals was to subscribe to e-mail updates, whether from airlines or more general travel sites. The downside was an in-box clogged with offers that weren't always great values or that weren't applicable to you. Now there's an alternative: RSS, which stands for Really Simple Syndication or Rich Site Summary, depending on whom you ask. Subscribe to a site's RSS feeds, and you get updates--on sports, politics, travel deals, whatever--delivered to your desktop or Web browser. Beyond their ability to keep you in the loop, RSS messages are easier to ignore than e-mails. A summary pops up in a tiny window or directly in your browser, and if you don't click on it, the message automatically disappears after a time period of your choosing. You're all set to start receiving RSS alerts if you use Apple's Safari browser or Mozilla's Firefox, or if you have a homepage at my.yahoo.com or my.msn.com; anyone with a Yahoo or MSN e-mail account is eligible, and registration is free. Alternately, download a free program called a news reader. Links can be found at most sites with RSS services, or by doing a Google search for "RSS reader" or "RSS aggregator." Most are Mac- or PC-specific, so pick one that works with your computer. Once you have a way to get RSS feeds, follow your news reader's instructions. (Clicking on a small orange box labeled "RSS" at sites that suit your fancy usually does the trick.) Don't be alarmed if you're prompted to click on "XML." That's just the format in which the messages are delivered. The most useful feeds let you set parameters for what messages you'll receive. At FareCompare, you can plug in any two domestic cities to learn when sales for that route are announced. Travelocity sends RSS updates on airfares between your home airport and up to five destinations, as well as deals for specific types of trips--beach, casino, etc. Kayak, the aggregator that canvasses rates from airlines, hotels, and car renters, has a Buzz Best Fares feed with airfare deals departing from a city of your choice. Though they might not track deals based on specific departure cities, RSS feeds at other travel sites keep tabs on all sorts of genuinely good offers. Smarter Travel lets you sign up for alerts on flights, hotels, packages, cruises, or deals aimed at seniors, students, or families. SideStep offers a choice of more than 30 RSS feeds, including 12 different kinds of vacation packages divided by destination and interest. And RSS alerts from Auto Europe and 1800FlyEurope might come in handy if you've got a trip to the Continent in the works.