Trip Coach: January 22, 2008

CLOSE TO HOME CALIFORNIA Sonoma Valley Beltane Ranch Just north of the town of Sonoma, in Glen Ellen, Beltane Ranch's 105 acres are filled with fruit trees, vegetable and flower gardens, a vineyard that sells grapes to nearby winemakers, and an olive orchard yielding oil that guests snap up for $15 a bottle. No wonder, then, that L.L. Bean and Victoria's Secret have shot their catalogs here: The location is downright idyllic. The yellow, gingerbread-trimmed lodge features five rooms and a two-story wraparound porch. The best rooms are on the second floor, where hammocks and porch swings overlook the vineyard and Sonoma Mountain beyond. (Ask for Room 1, which has a wood-burning stove and a separate sitting room.) Alexa Wood is Beltane Ranch's third-generation owner. Her great-aunt and great-uncle bought the property in 1936 to raise cattle, sheep, and turkeys. Breakfast, which may include sweet-potato latkes or buttermilk pancakes with homemade raspberry syrup, is made with ingredients from the gardens. Second helpings are basically mandatory. You can burn off extra calories on the property's tennis court (the front desk loans out rackets and balls) and by exploring the 20-plus wineries within a five-mile radius. 707/996-6501, beltaneranch.com, from $150, breakfast included. Photos 1 of 1 Napa Valley Hideaway Cottages For more than 100 years, people have flocked to Calistoga for its natural hot springs and mineral-rich waters, which have been said to cure everything from arthritis to chronic fatigue syndrome. The stucco bungalows at Hideaway Cottages were built in the 1920s and '40s to cater to wellness seekers and still serve as a home base for such guests today. Scattered on two and a half acres planted with sycamores, elms, and the oldest cork oak tree in the Napa Valley, the 17 cottages are all configured differently—some have a sitting room in addition to a bedroom, a bathroom, and a kitchen; others have a private patio—but all are located a few steps from a swimming pool and a hot tub filled with Calistoga's legendary water. The property is just two blocks from Calistoga's quaint main street, and a short stroll from the 56-year-old Dr. Wilkinson's Hot Springs Resort (owned by the same family as the Hideaway Cottages). There, for $129, guests can get The Works: a soak in a mineral mud bath, a lavender mineral whirlpool bath, time in the steam room, a blanket wrap, and a 30-minute almond-oil massage. 707/942-4108, hideawaycottages.com, from $185, no guests under 18. Closed December and January. Photos 1 of 1 FLORIDA Miami The Loft Hotel Lisa and Pascal Nicolle opened their first South Beach hotel in 1992 when they bought an apartment complex at Collins Avenue and 14th Street and transformed it into the Villa Paradiso. In 2001, the Nicolles purchased a second apartment complex five blocks south and converted it into The Loft Hotel, a younger, hipper sibling. Located in the midst of the Collins Avenue action, the Loft's 20 apartments sit in a two-story line perpendicular to the street (the farthest—and quietest—rooms are the highest-numbered ones). Even the rooms near Collins seem serene on the inside, however, with tile or blond-wood floors and wrought-iron headboards. All have full kitchens and cute breakfast nooks with a round café table. Throughout, Lisa has placed bouquets of dried milky-white flowers that she and Pascal brought back from France. "Sometimes people call up and want to know which hotel is better," Lisa says. "How do you choose? It's like having two kids! I say the Villa is a little more Key West, while at the Loft I feel like I need to put on lipstick." 952 Collins Ave., 305/534-2244, thelofthotel.com, from $90. MEXICO Tulum Amansala's Casa Magna In the mid-1970s, Colombian drug kingpin Pablo Escobar built two 14,000-square-foot houses at the southern end of Tulum. The buildings were abandoned after Escobar died in 1993, and nature—in the form of hurricanes and vegetation—began to reclaim them. They caught the eye of Melissa Perlman, one of the owners of the Amansala resort up the beach. She opened Casa Magna in 1996, after transforming the concrete houses into 22 enormous, minimally furnished guest rooms. The structures retain a hint of bunker flavor, but that's offset by vibrant orange and pink fabrics and pillows in the chic lounging areas, beds draped with mosquito netting, and decorative mosaics that liven up the bathrooms. Many Casa Magna guests choose to participate in the Bikini Boot Camp program, a combination of exercise, yoga, and massage that became popular at the original Amansala property. The on-site restaurant emphasizes healthy choices such as grilled fish and fresh fruit. 011-52/1-998-185-7428, amansala.com, from $180. Photos 1 of 2 COSTA RICA Santa Teresa Hotel Milarepa It's easy to see why Leonardo DiCaprio stayed here with his girlfriend—the hotel has only four rooms, which guarantees privacy. Each bungalow is filled with Balinese teak furniture, including intricately carved armoires and antique four-poster beds. At night, guests are encouraged to open all the windows—and one wall of doors that lead to a private veranda—to let in the warm breezes. In the morning, noise from howler monkeys in the trees may provide a comic wake-up call. The bathrooms are private and semi-alfresco: The toilet and sink are under the roof's eaves, but the shower is open to the sky. A seven-table restaurant looks out over the pool, past a well-trimmed lawn, and down to the beach where there's a bamboo massage hut ($65 for an hour). The American chef, James Kelly, draws from Asian influences and makes great use of local seafood. He also plays another role: owner Caroline Marot's fiancé. 011-506/640-0023, milarepahotel.com, from $185, breakfast included. Photos 1 of 4 CARIBBEAN St. Lucia Villa Beach Cottages The hour and a half ride from St. Lucia's international airport to the Villa Beach Cottages in a standard taxi is $70, but you'll save $10 if you let one of the Villa Beach drivers do the honors. He or she will also chat you up and buy you a cold Piton—St. Lucia's local brew—along the way. The special treatment is one of the reasons why owner Colin Hunte's 20 suites welcome so many repeat guests, some having visited regularly for decades. The operation dates to 1958, when Hunte's grandfather bought two former U.S. naval barracks and had them moved to a 40-foot-wide beach on the island's northwestern tip. New buildings have gone up since Colin took over 18 years ago, but he's tried to keep the feel of the originals, incorporating cathedral ceilings, jalousie shutters, and gingerbread woodwork. Most rentals have a private patio with ocean views (on a clear day you can spot Martinique). When you get hungry, head next door to The Wharf, which makes an exemplary roti, the spicy Jamaican wrap filled with vegetables, chicken, or beef. For true relaxation, hit one of the hammocks slung at the water's edge and drift off to the sounds of the waves crashing. 758/450-2884, villabeachcottages.com, from $190. Photos 1 of 2 Jamaica Rockhouse Hotel Seclusion isn't easy to come by in the party town of Negril, but that's exactly what Rockhouse delivers, primarily to hip couples and families looking to avoid a spring-break experience. Rockhouse's rounded thatched villas are strung atop a low cliff carved with stairs that lead to the warm waters of Pristine Cove. The 20 private units peeking out of the jungle, right at the cliff's edge, start at $325 in winter, but the long buildings set a bit farther back are easier to pull off. Five studios with sea views ($150) and nine standard rooms with garden views ($125) all have minibars, safes, A/C, mosquito netting around four-poster beds, and furniture constructed from local timber. Guests can chill out at the 60-foot infinity pool, take yoga classes, or stroll along the property's serpentine paths and stepping stones, which inevitably lead to quiet nooks, isolated beach chairs, and what most people say are the best sunset views in Jamaica. 876/957-4373, rockhousehotel.com, from $125. Photos 1 of 2 Andros Island, Bahamas Seascape Inn Most of Andros Island is uninhabitable marshland, choked by mangroves and shot through with so many lakes and channels that from the air it looks like a doily. The Seascape Inn, on Andros Island's Mangrove Cay, is within minutes of a 120-mile-long barrier reef (the third largest in the world), making it perfect for diving, fishing, or just dropping out for a week. Each of the property's five cabanas has a small deck facing the white-sand beach. Pass the hours bonefishing from the flats in front of your bungalow (catch and release), exploring the reef by kayak, or pedaling along Mangrove Cay's lone road (bikes and kayaks are free for guests). You'll typically find Brooklyn-born hosts Mickey and Joan McGowan at the inn's bar and restaurant; gracious and friendly, they're clearly thrilled with their choice to move to the Bahamas 12 years ago. Joan likes to garden and bake, whipping up muffins and biscuits at dawn and tempting desserts—sometimes pies made with coconuts from the yard—in the afternoon. 242/369-0342, seascapeinn.com, from $110, continental breakfast included. Photos 1 of 1 CLASSIC EUROPE FRANCE Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, French Riviera Les Deux Frères Go up—past the crowds, past the noise—to the tiny cliff-top village of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin. Stop to gasp at the panorama from the tiny town square, and notice the lovely dining terrace to your right. It's attached to the restaurant of the intimate Les Deux Frères, in a 19th-century stone building that was once a school. A mahogany bar fills the lobby; a narrow staircase leads up to the nine small, pretty rooms. Each has a name indicating its theme: Provençal, African, Marine, and so on. Views range from lovely to stupendous; depending on your room's orientation, you might look out on the town square, the rugged hills, or—if you get the full frontal—the cliffs, the sea, and, in the distance, Monaco. 1 Place des Deux Frères, 011-33/4-93-28-99-00, lesdeuxfreres.com, from $148. Photos 1 of 2 Villeneuve-lez-Avignon, Provence Hotel de l'Atelier Spare yourself the agony of trying to find high-season lodgings in Avignon—there's a great little hotel across the river in Villeneuve, just a five-minute bus ride from the City of Popes. Each of the 23 rooms is a different shape and size—the building was built in the 16th century as a silk workshop—and there are exposed beams and stone walls, as well as painted niches, art deco dressers, Chinese end tables, and antique photography. A few rooms look a bit like they're from a 1940s movie set. The garden terrace is livened up with modern sculptures; hallways showcase paintings by local artists. The new owners are redoing a couple of rooms in Provençal style—let's hope their taste is as refined as that of their predecessors. 5 rue de la Foire, 011-33/4-90-25-01-84, hoteldelatelier.com, from $83. Photos 1 of 3 ITALY Monte San Savino, Tuscany Castello di Gargonza On the crest of a mountain enveloped by forest sits a fairy-tale castle, with a 13th-century hamlet curled around the base of a crenellated tower. The hilltop village is Gargonza, fought over for centuries by the Florentines and Sienese, host to an exiled Dante in the early 1300s—and now entirely for rent. Gargonza's 35 houses, which like the castle are built of pale stone, serve as apartments, and most feature working fireplaces, kitchenettes, and 17th-century-style furnishings. There are also eight simple rooms (no kitchens or fireplaces). Converting the place into lodging for tourists was the only way Count Roberto Guicciardini—whose ancestors have been lords of the castle since 1700—could save the decaying village after the last of its farmers and artisans abandoned Gargonza in the 1960s. The central courtyard, with an old well and geraniums spilling from arcaded balconies, is a sort of open-air living room for guests. Likewise, the old olive-press building functions these days as a common room with sofas, a TV, and the breakfast buffet. Just outside the town's medieval walls is a swimming pool surrounded by fragrant rosemary and olive and cypress trees, and the excellent restaurant. Owner Neri Guicciardini, one of the count's sons, adds innovative flair to Tuscan classics. West of Monte San Savino, less than a mile off the road between Arezzo and Siena, 011-39/0575-847-021, gargonza.it, from $170; from $230 in B&B and apartment; from $1,091 weekly apartment rentals. Photos 1 of 3 Positano, Amalfi Coast Albergo California Maria Cinque makes a point of chatting with every one of her guests. She's particularly delighted to meet Americans, as she and her husband, Antonio, lived in the Bronx for nine years. They returned to Italy in 1974 to run a family hotel a five minutes' walk from the center of Positano—and to teach their children "what it means to be Italian," in Maria's words. Six of the 15 guest rooms are in the original 1777 Palazzo Bruno, including four upstairs rooms with 18th-century ceiling frescoes. Many regulars prefer ground-floor rooms 51 to 55, however, because they open directly onto the magnificent, long entrance terrace and enjoy postcard views of Positano framed by ivy trailing off the shady trellis. Each of the California's rooms is spacious and seems even more so due to the minimal furnishings. All guests have access to the terrace, and at sunset small groups gather there to sip wine, plan the next day, and pinch themselves, realizing that they've got the same view as the chichi Le Sirenuse hotel down the street for one third of the price. Via Cristoforo Colombo 141, Positano, 011-39/089-875-382, hotelcaliforniapositano.com, from $223, breakfast included. Closed mid-November to mid-March. Photos 1 of 1 Siracusa, Sicily Hotel Gutkowski The hotel with the best combination of style and value in all of Sicily is on a coastal road in Siracusa's historic center of Ortigia. Gutkowski's owner, Paola Pretsch, converted a pair of powder-blue houses overlooking the Mediterranean into a 25-room hotel. She decorated the properties along minimalist lines, enhanced by traditional touches, with mod furnishings near old stone doorways. In the main building, the rooms with direct sea views are 3, 4, 8, 9, and 15—the last reached via a terrace. In the annex up the road, the views are best from second-floor rooms 24 to 26. (From the first floor, only the sea horizon is visible above stone fortifications across the road.) The scrumptious breakfast consists of homemade cakes and cookies, fruits and cheeses, organic marmalades and honey, and fresh-squeezed orange juice. Lungomare Vittorini 26, 011-39/0931-465-861, guthotel.it, from $163. Photos 1 of 1 ENGLAND Penzance, Cornwall Mount Haven Hotel Orange Trevillion was drawn to Penzance, at the west end of Cornwall, because of the town's proximity to St. Michael's Mount, an ancient craggy island that looks a lot like a lopsided volcano. "It's a sacred place," says Trevillion, an eccentric with carrot-colored hair (of course) who believes that four of the Earth's energy lines come together there. Formerly the site of a Benedictine priory and rumored to have once been home to a giant, the island got its name when a fisherman claimed to have seen the archangel Michael there many years ago. Trevillion and her partners bought Mount Haven in 2001. They knocked down walls and reconfigured the old coach house to maximize views of St. Michael's Mount and the ocean. Most of the 18 rooms look out on the water. They have a distinctly Asian feel, with silk bedspreads and throw pillows covered in embroidered fabrics from Trevillion's frequent trips to India. (Room 6 is the quietest, away from both the front desk and the terrace.) Even the restaurant—where many dishes are flavored with curry and lemongrass—has views of the mount from one end. But the best seats are on the terrace: You can see the island rising steeply out of the water, with a medieval castle on its tip-top. (Owned by The National Trust, the castle is open to the public.) At low tide, when people stroll across a granite causeway to visit, it appears as if they're walking on water. Farther west beyond Mounts Bay and Penzance—the city made famous by Gilbert and Sullivan—is Land's End. 011-44/173-671-0249, mounthaven.co.uk, from $88, breakfast included. Photos 1 of 2 This story quotes starting rates for a one-night stay in a double room during low season.

While light is always an important factor in taking a photograph, with a sunset light isthefactor. You want a richly saturated image, one that accurately captures the colors in front of you. Your job as the photographer is to let the camera know what to look at in order to record those colors properly. The first step is to turn off your flash. Since your flash will often be triggered automatically in low light—creating a blast of bright cold light—turning it off will allow the warm natural light to dominate the picture. If you have to use the flash (some cameras will not allow you to turn the function off), opt for the "fill flash" or "night photo" setting to reduce the power of the flash. These settings can be found by cycling through your flash options, usually symbolized by a lightning bolt icon. The second and more important preparatory step is to fill the camera frame with the sky. Point the center of the frame above the horizon line and fill the frame with as much of the color and light you want captured. This is how you tell the camera's light meter what needs to be properly exposed. Once you have filled the frame with sky, push the shutter button half way down to lock in the exposure and the focus; you can recompose the shot, if need be. As long as you keep the shutter button pressed halfway down, the exposure and focusing point will remain the same (for up to 30 seconds on most cameras). When you're ready, press the shutter all the way to take the picture. This technique works with all auto-focus cameras, both film and digital. A side effect of recomposing and setting the exposure value to very bright light is that objects like trees and buildings will lose some detail and be silhouetted. Here are more tried-and-true bits of advice: Be Prepared: Take your camera with you! You never know when the perfect sunset will occur. And if you know you'll be out all day, pack an extra battery. You may also want to note the exact time of the sunset (check a local paper or a weather-oriented website). Arrive an hour beforehand to set up your shot. Once you're ready, begin photographing and keep shooting as the intensity of the light changes. Don't stop just because the sun goes down. The 10 to 15 minutes of diminishing light just after sunset can yield some of the best results. Set Your Own Film Speed: Most modern cameras, film or digital, set the film speed (ASA/ISO) automatically. But checking it manually will ensure better results. Rather than use an ASA/ISO of 50 or 100 (good for bright daylight), use a faster speed like 400 or 800 ASA/ISO that is designed to be used at sunset and in other low-light conditions. When It Comes to Resolution, Aim High: If you're using a digital camera, choose the highest resolution your camera will allow, usually a "fine" or "super fine" JPEG (A JPEG is a standard, highly compressed image file). Access to these settings can usually be found by pressing the Menu or Function key on your camera. If your camera has a "raw" or "TIFF" mode, try it. These modes will compress the image less than a JPEG and will ultimately yield a bigger file and a richer image. While the files may take up more room on your memory card, the inconvenience will be worth it once you see the sunset prints, particularly if you enlarge the prints beyond five by seven inches. Visualize in Advance: Try to envision the picture before you even bring the camera to your eye. Then take a few extra seconds to perfect the image. Be sure that everything you want to capture is clearly in the frame and remove any extraneous or distracting objects from the composition. What qualifies? It's up to you to determine what seems distracting, but as a general rule, less is more with a sunset photo—let nature put on its show. Compose Off Center: Centering objects in the frame can make for a static composition. Try placing the sun to the left or right. Use objects such as trees or buildings to help frame the image and give it depth (see fig.1). If you are photographing near the water, you may want to incorporate it into the image to show the sunset's reflection on the surface (see fig.2). Clouds are another element that can add texture and pattern to the image. Early Riser?While these tips have been designed with the sunset in mind, they will also work very well for a sunrise. The key difference is that you won't be able to shoot into the sun at all because of its blinding early-morning intensity. Instead, keep the sun at your back and focus on the light as it falls in front of you. > Check out 16 stunning readers' sunset photos

BUZZ OFF Before we travel in buggy or malarial areas, my husband and I treat all of our pants and shirts with Permethrin (available in a concentrate from travel-supply companies). We dilute it in a spray bottle, spritz it on the clothes, and let them dry. (Never spray it directly on your skin.) The treatment lasts through six washings. More than once, we remained bite-free at jungle locations while other guests were suffering. Marci Fuller, San Benito, Tex. DRIER GOODS The next time you accidentally leave your cell phone in your pocket when you wash your pants or soak your iPod while you're jogging in the rain, don't open, start, or plug in the gadget. Instead, bury it in gel-type kitty litter for 24 hours. The litter will absorb all of the moisture and dry out the device. Barbara Dunn-Alfinito, Fishkill, N.Y. GET CULTURED Traveling abroad often involves sampling unusual food, which can lead to stomach problems. Some types of yogurt have active live cultures that are believed to help digest food and prevent stomach infections. I eat some as soon as I arrive, and I've usually kept the demons at bay. Kevin McCalmon, Broomfield, Colo. WEIGH YOUR OPTIONS After spending two weeks in Alaska—one week on land and one on a cruise—my husband and I had collected more souvenirs than we'd anticipated. Worried about overweight-luggage fees at the airport, we hauled our suitcases to the cruise ship's gym and weighed them on one of the scales. We kept rearranging the contents until each bag weighed less than 50 pounds (but barely!). Nancy Boehmer, Bridgeton, Mo. HOMEWARD BOUND When you print driving directions from a website such as MapQuest, always print return directions, too. On our last trip, we assumed we could just reverse the directions for the ride home and found ourselves trying to go the wrong way on a one-way street. It took many extra (and aggravating) miles to make our way back. Diane Cavallaro, Westbury, N.Y.

Ross Wehner: Hello this is Ross Wehner and I'm so happy to be able to speak with you about Peru today. There are many questions and I'm going to try and answer as many as possible. Most of this info I'll be giving over the next hour is in Moon Peru and, if it's not, I'll make sure it's in there for the next edition! _______________________ Westfield, Mass.: I am traveling with 4 other women (ages 60) to Peru and Machu Picchu April 8-16. Want to know what the temperature will be(for packing purposes)and should we bring only travelers checks or use a credit card for our expenses. Any additional security tips would be welcome. Ross Wehner: Great questions—time of year and money. First time of year. The dry season in Peru is from May to September, with June through August being the driest months. These are also the most crowded months so if you are going to Machu Picchu, expect to be with lots of people and make your hotel and other reservations early. There is a whole section on Moon Peru on how to avoid crowds at MP (p. 73). I am a big fan of March through May, when there are less crowds and the highlands are fluorescent green from all the rains. I also think September through November is a great time to go. January and February are very rainy in the highlands and the jungle, though if you don't mind Seattle in January you won't mind Machu Picchu in January either. January and February are, by the way, summer on the coast so the beaches are packed and very warm and beautiful. Second, money. ATMs are now ubiquitous throughout Peru so you can reliably draw cash in local currency at a decent exchange rate at any time of the day from streetside ATMs in Lima, Cusco and a few dozen other mid-size Peruvian cities. If you are on a backpacker's budget and going to inexpensive places to stay or eat you will need cash always. Though dollars are accepted, you don't get a good exchange rate so carry soles (the local currency). Credit cards work great but only at the mid-level and up restaurants and hotels in the major cities. Traveler's checks are a pain to cash but are a nice backup if you get fleeced. Expect to wait one hour in a bank, though you may get lucky and go right to the counter. Cusco,. Lima, Arequipa have change stores (marked "Cambio") as in Europe but they don't give good rates usually. But if you can find a "cambio" place, it's certainly worth it for the convenience. If you change dollars on the street, which I do all the time, only do it with someone who has the cambista uniform on and with the clear ID prominently attached to the uniform. To change money on the street, make sure to do it in public places and during the daytime if possible. When I travel to Peru, I bring an ATM card, my credit card and, if I'm really being cautious, my traveler's checks., I also write all the info—especially the numbers to cancel the cards if stolen—into an email which I mail myself and can check later if necessary. The print out this email and store it in your stuff away from your wallet and travelers checks. Third, security. Peru is safe if you travel sensibly. For more info about safety, please read "Health and Safety: section of Moon Peru and also the section on taxis, page 566. Have a great trip! _______________________ San Francisco, Calif.: What is the best itinerary for a 12-day trip to Peru in March? We are planning our trip and we love the ocean and interested in hiking Machu Picchu. Ross Wehner: That's a hard question to answer in a forum like this well. There are suggested itineraries in the opening of the Moon Peru book, which you can mix and match. If you like the coast, you may want to try and go in March and April, when it's still summerish on the coast and pretty dry in the mountain. Plus you'll have the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu to yourself! Then I would visit Paracas and Ica and take a 2-night odyssey into the Ica Desert with the Desert Man, mentioned in the Ica section of the book. This giant swath of desert is up against the Pacific with beautiful wilderness beaches that people have not set foot on in centuries. The surrounding moonscape is filled with beautiful desert oddities, such as prehistoric shark teeth and the fossilized bones of giant, extinct porpoises. _______________________ Rocky Point, N.Y.: Is it possible to go air balooning over Machu Picchu? If so, what is the best month to do it? Ross Wehner: There are no balloon companies flying over MP at this moment to my knowledge. Plus the idea of being in a balloon and having to land in that impossible steep, and thickly vegetated jungle sounds like a nightmare to me! You can get a great view of MP from Huayna Picchu, the peak that looms over MP in all the photos. There is a recent restriction of 400 people per day so, if you want to climb Huayna Picchu, get there first thing in the morning! If you are going with a tour operator, let them know ahead of time as well. _______________________ Chattanooga, Tenn.: I'm flying into Lima in June. I'd like to go to Machu Picchu and I'd like to hike the trail, at least one way. We're both very fit, mid 30's and don't mind "roughing it". Any suggestions? Jeff Ross Wehner: Do the Inka trail when it's not crowded outside of June-August! Or check out the alternative Inca Trail that goes past the sacred mountain of Salcantay and hooks onto the end of the Inca Trail. There was a good review of alternative Inca Trails in the NY Times. Or do a totally wild and off-the-beaten path trek with one of the operators I recommend in Moon Peru. _______________________ Merced, Calif. If you wanted to do a 2 day hike to Machu Picchu, visit Lake Titicaca, visit pisac—would you arrange a package deal or individually book each trip? Ross Wehner: This all depends on what kind of traveler you are. What I can tell you is that Peru is safe as long as you take basic precautions (see "Health and Safety section of Moon Peru and also the section on taxis, page 566). I can also tell you that with a basic modicum of Spanish you can do almost anything you want in Peru and generally have a great sense of accomplishment and adventure while doing it. It might take a bit more time though! You can certainly visit Pisac and Lake Titicaca on your own and, in fact, I would say do not take a tour unless you are very nervous about traveling on your own in Peru. For the 2-day, 1-night Machu Picchu hike you have no choice but to go with an operator. I recommend this company and there are other recommendations in Moon Peru as well. _______________________ Neenah, Wis.: I am actually in Peru right now and was wondering whether the Nazca lines are really worth it? I have been asking a few travelers who have come from that direction but have received mixed reviews. I am traveling with a friend and she has already told me that she doesn?t want to do it due to cost. $40 seems a little pricey (for Peru) for something you might not enjoy. I just want to know a more professional opinion so that I can determine whether to make that pitstop or not. Thank you. Ross Wehner: I understand your point of view. The Nasca Lines are very impressive to me but people, depending on their perspective, tend to be either under- or overwhelmed by them. I would say if you have a spiritual fascination with the Nasca Lines, they are worth making a special trip for. If not, then it's something to do only if you are traveling down the coast. You can see them from observation towers fairly well but the best way to see them of course if by plane, which usually costs at least $100. There are also companies that can fly you from Lima and back for around the same price, which saves you a day or travel at least. Good luck! _______________________ Haverford, Pa.: I was thinking of going to Peru the second week of March. I have heard that this is still the rainy season. Are there places like Machu Picchu which it would be significantly better to visit later in the year? Ross Wehner: March is a wonderful time! Do it! No crowds, green landscape! Most rains come in the afternoon and I find them beautiful over Peru's landscape. Bring an umbrella and a rain jacket. When I was a wilderness educator and we would get stuck in multi-day storm on a backpacking trip, we would tell students: "There are those who know what it means to walk in the rain, others just get wet." Having said that as you get towards the dry season of June-August the weather gets progressively drier. The peak months of rain are December - February. Remember these are the rainfall patterns for the mountains and jungles of Peru. The coast is completely different and opposite to the winters and summers in the U.S. On the coast, Dec - February is the sunny warm months and other parts of the year tend to be more foggy. The farther north you go in Peru, adn the closer to the equator, the warmer and sunnier it gets outside of that Dec-Feb timeframe. _______________________ The Villages, Fla.: What is the best way to see the Sacred Valley on our own for two (2)days if we want to leave from Cusco tour the area and stay in Ollantaytambo each night? Also what is the best source to buy the train tickets from Ollantaytambo, returning to Cucso? Ross Wehner: Great question. Ollantaytambo is one of my favorite places in all of Peru. It's really the best example of a living Inca village anywhere in the country, with people living in stone homes with trapezoidal doorways and street canals -- everything built 500 years ago by the Incas. There are incredible hikes to remote ruins and communities all around Ollanta. The sun temple at Ollanta I find to be the most spiritual and moving example of Inca stonework, along with Machu Picchu. The best place to stay in Ollanta is El Albergue (www.elalbergue.com) or El Tambo, the latter being more rustic. The properties are run by Joaquin Randall, his poartner Maita, and Joaquin's mother Wendy Weeks. This American-Peruvian family has lived in Ollanta since the 1960s and I have known them for a long time. They are thoroughly involved in service projects and other efforts to immprove the lives of Peruvians in Ollanta and other communities. I should mentions that Joaquin and I are involved in an effort to help U.S. schools organize volunteer and leadership experiences in Ollantaytambo through an organization I founded called World Leadership School. _______________________ Dallas, Tex.: Hi Ross, I'm interested in going to Machu Picchu in August. I'm only going for a week, and I might be going alone. What tour would you recommend? I'd like to go with a group and have things planned out, but not every minute. Also, what other sites would you suggest that are a must see in Peru for the time that I have? Ross Wehner: A week is pretty short—can you spare 10 days? All the bust agencies I can recommend are in the book and I have also come across a new one, perusurnativa.com. These trekking agencies will often offer a 2-night Inca Trail Machu Picchu experience that I recommend, 2 days in the Sacred Valley and then maybe 2 days in Cusco. I encourage you to plan at least one crazy, off-the-beaten track experience to get a taste of Peru. Take a bus from Peru to some crazy community in the middle of nowhere...you can talk to the agency you work with and they will have suggestions. Have a great time! _______________________ Tulsa, Okla.: Who are the top two or three bicycle outfitters that operate in Peru? Ross Wehner: you know there is a guy in Huaraz name Julio Olaza, mentioned in Moon Peru, who does a great job and could probably organize a trip for you anywhere you wanted. His email is julio.olaza@terra.com.pe—other than that I would say check out the excellent travel info website andeantravelweb.com, which is loaded with up-to-date info about different outfits. If you find someone you like apart from Julio, let me know. There are other suggestions for bike operators in the Cusco section of Moon Peru as well. It might also be worth checking out Manu Expeditions, as owner Barry Walker has lived in Peru now for 30 years and can point you in the right direction—if he can't organize the bike trip himself. A spectacular mtn bike ride, which I have done, is from the highlands outside of Cusco all the way to the Manu rainforest. This is like a 12,000 foot drop over 100 miles of dirt road in ONE DAY! Bring lots of intertubes. _______________________ Minneapolis: Plans: Leave Miami for Peru first week of May, Fly to Lima and then Cuzco with some light hiking. Dilemma: Friends who were there in late May of 2006 (Machu Picchu) said it was still cold and snowy; to go later if at all possible. When I relayed this to the travel agent, she claimed "Not true...early May is fine for travel and hiking." Your response? Ross Wehner: Friends are wrong. May is sunny and warm. Pack your bags! _______________________ Pinole, Calif.: I've been to Machu Picchu but have never stayed at the hotel there, always below in agua calientes. How do I make reservations for the hotel right on Machu Picchu? Ross Wehner: You know, I would not stay in the hotel that is right at the entrance to Machu Picchu. To be honest, it's extremely expensive (north of $500 per night at least) and I don't think the rooms are that nice. Most people stay at one of the boring but affordable hotels down in Aguas Calientes—and you can still get up and hike before dawn or catch a shuttle and see Machu Picchu at sunrise, which is what I suggest doing to escape the crowds. The best option for staying at Machu Picchu by far, and the place to stay if you want to splurge, is Inkaterra's Machu Picchu hotel. The owner, Jose Koechlin, and his wife have impeccable taste and Jose has been a major force in Peruvian consevation. Since I met him in 1990, he has been Conservation International's point person in Peru. Teh food is wonderful, there are over 100 orchids on the property, I identified 30 bird species in half-hour of birding there one morning—in short, it's a paradise next to the otherwise cramped conditions of Aguas Calientes and even the luxury Machu Picchu hotel. _______________________ Fort Myers, Fla.: I am torn between hiking the trail to Machu Picchu and taking one of the trains. I am not an athletic person but normally walk for 8 hours or more daily when on vacation without problems. However, I'm not wearing my luggage and bedding while I walk. What should I consider when making that decision? Ross Wehner: The Inka Trail is not something to be taken lightly. There are three passes over 14,000 feet and the walking can be rough. Then again, I never tell anyone not to dare to do something because if you go with the right attitude and desire I am sure you can make it. Another option, less strenuous, is the 2-day, one-night version that all the operators offer. There are also incredible and less commiting hikes all over Peru—Ollantaytambo, in the Sacred Valley, is a wonderful base camp for intellectually stimulating day hikes. _______________________ Sao Paulo, Brazil: How long should we stay in Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu? Do you think 2 days in Cusco and 2 days in MC are enough? Ross Wehner: I do recommend staying overnight in Machu Picchu so that you can get there at dawn and escape the crowds. As the trains roll in and the ruins fill up with people in mid-morning escape to one of the fabulous day hikes that will take you toa mind-blowing spot in the Machu Picchu complex—the Moon Temple is my favorite, but there is also Huayna Picchu, the peak over MP, the hanging bridge and Mt. Machu Picchu the peak opposite Huayna Picchu which no one ever climbs but has just a good of view of MP. I did it last year as an acclimatization hike with some mountain climbers and we had a great time (base to summit, 1-2 hours depending on your shape. Bring food and water). _______________________ Oakton, Va.: I am going to Peru in late June to present scholarship money to a child I have sponsered thry Plan International. He lives in Laderas A, about an hour north of Lima. How hard is it to get there? Do I need to rent a jeep rather than a car? Is there somewhere I can take him and his Mom for a special night out? Or a terrific day trip? How difficult is it to get to Ayacucho? I have another school grant I hope to do there. Can this all be done in a week? Are school fees handled thru a bank check mostly or by credit card? Where can I get more information? Thanks, Nadine Ross Wehner: Nadine Very interesting. I would suggest that you get help through Plan International or a Lima-based contact for visiting Laderas A. I am not sure where that is, but it sounds like a pueblo joven (slum) outside of town. I have certainly spent time in the pueblos and have never had a problem, but I don't think you should go there alone. Especially if you don't speak Spanish. There is too much risk. So go with someone from Lima who you trust, rent a car or a taxi and have it wait for you while you are there. You can rent a car with drive for a whole day in Lima for around $80-$100 and there are few recommendations in Moon Peru for that. For a day trip, maybe you could ask them what they woud like to do—it also depends where Laderas A is located. There is Pachacama, the ruins south of Lima, which are fascinating, plus the Gold Museum in town which is pretty expensive for poor kids and mind-blowing. For school fees, you should probably plan on making a transfer right into the person's bank account if they have one. Otherwise by check. Most kids go to state schools, which of course are paid for by the state. Private school tuition is paid for by check, usually. Feel free to contact me offline with more questions as I am interested in the work you are doing, ross@worldleadershipschool.com. _______________________ Asheville, N.C.: Hi Ross and the Budget Travel Staff, I am turning 30 this summer and want to really make it memorable. I'd like to take a trip to Peru but I have limited funds and will have to travel solo. Can you recommend a safe and reasonable tour agency for a 10-14 day trip around late June? Thanks for your help! Jessica Ross Wehner: A lot of folks have asked for recommendations about tour agencies. What I recommend is going through the list we have in Moon Peru and also checking out this excellent and reliable web site: andeantravelweb.co. Remember that there are lots of small, cheap agencies that frequently mimic the names of the larger more reputable ones. Don't go with these! Also don't negotiate too hard or look for the rock-bottom deals—In Peru, moreso than any other place in the world, you do get what you pay for. _______________________ Ventura, Calif.: Hi Ross, Is it reasonably safe for a woman (I'm 40) to travel solo in Peru? I've traveled solo in Europe and did not feel threatened at all. I want to explore without taking a packaged tour. Thanks! Ross Wehner: Good question. Yes, I think it is reasonably safe to travel alone in Peru as a 40-year-old woman but know too there is risk. My wife and I traveled through Peru for eight months in a jeep and visited every corner of the country and never got robbed once. We did feel unsafe once when we were stopped in the middle of the night by machete-armed protestors who had blocked a country road in the late evening and demanded payment to pass. We were trying to circumvent a main labor strike on the highway by taking country roads—all in order to get to the beach and take a break from guidebook research! Lesson here: use caution and don't force it! Things have their own time scale in Peru that you must respect if you are doing something different, like traveling alone through seldom-visited areas. The funny part of the story is that, as my heart was beating and my wife huddled in a tarp in the back of the jeep, I struck up a conversation with these masked machete men and tried to be as cheerful as possible. They all took off their masks and we had a great talk about how hard it is to be a farmer! They were such sweet people, just very desperate, as many Peruvians are. I also worked as a journalist in Peru during the early 90s, when Peru was basically closed off by the Shining Path. I traveled extensively and did not have a problem except for a time that I strayed into a jungle village that was controlled by a Colombian drug cartel—but people I met in the town warned me and smuggled me across the river in the middle of the night. Peruvians, on a per capita basis, are probably the sweetest and most caring people you will met on the planet! _______________________ Riverview, Fla.: I have a trip scheduled for the first week in March, 2008. What would be a good travel wardrobe for that time in year in both Lima and Machu Picchu? Thanks! Ross Wehner: Nothing more than fleece jacket and a light rain shell—I don't think a heavy parka is a good idea. The more layers, the more flexibility you have! _______________________ Houston, Tex.: My husband and I are planning an early May trip to Peru to hike Machu Picchu and see Cusco & the Sacred Valley and we're considering spending the 2nd week relaxing on the beach on the north coast. I've read about Mancora in Budget Travel. What would you suggest and what can I expect of Mancora? Ross Wehner: Mancora is beautiful, but it ain't the Caribbean. Cold water, tan sand, rough surf. The other author of Moon, Kazia Jankowski, spent a lot of time therea nd knows it well. She did a fabulous job updating that section of the book. But Mancora changes fast as well, so if possible, stay flexible to change plans when you get there. I liked the areas outside of Mancora, like Vichayito and other places. _______________________ San Francisco, Calif.: Hi Ross, My boyfriend and I are planning a trip to Machu Picchu this year, and wondered what's the most reasonable price for airline tickets, and which city do we fly in? Do you have any recommendations on affordable and most comfortable flight plans? Thanks, Jen Ross Wehner: to find the best airfare in Peru, I suggest you play with dates and use kayak.com—it's a great tool! I buy most of my fares online now, rather than use travel agents. You have to fly into Lima to get anywhere in Peru and you usually either leave from Los Angeles, Miami or one of the Texas airports. There are some cheaper flights that go through Central America or Argentina, but be careful of huge flight times! _______________________ Ross Wehner: Before I end I want to say that Kazia Jankowski, the other author of Moon Peru, has launched a very interesting travel company called Pica Peru, peruculinaryvacations.com. This company takes people on culinary and cultural tours to Mancora and Cusco. She is a professional food writer and is in good with all the best chefs of Peru, which in turn are some of the most extraordinary chefs in the world. I highly recommend Pica Peru and Kazia in general! An organization I have recently founded is World Leadership School, worldleadershipschool.com. If you know of a high school, middle school or college that may be interested—let me know! ross@worldleadershipschool.com Thank you and good luck in your travels— Ross and Renee (my wife) and Kazia (dearest friend) _______________________ Brooklyn, N.Y.: I am planning to visit Peru in April. We originally planned to visit Puno (Lake Titica) first and then head over to Cusco and the Sacred Valley. I read that altitude sickness can be a real problem starting out at the high elevation around Puno. We cancelled our tickets and are now searching for a fare starting out in Cusco and ending the trip in Puno. Is starting out in a high elevation like in Puno a true problem etc...? We are planning to depart NY on April 16 and then leave from Peru on April 27. How do you think we can best spend our limited time? Thank you, Michael Ross Wehner: I'm going to keep answering questions as long as I can in the interests of getting the important points addressed. Altitude sickness is a major problem in Cusco and especially Puno (nearly 14,000 feet!). There are suggestions on how to deal with altitude sickness in the Cusco section of the book. Short version: upon arrival in Cusco, descend to the lower Sacred Valley, then go to Machu Picchu and then go to Cusco. Go to Lake Titicaca last—do not stay there or you will get sick most likely. _______________________ Lenoir City, Tenn.: We are just starting to research the Machu Picchu/Aguas Caliente/Cuzco area of Peru for a trip in May 2009. I have some physical limitations and need to be as conveniently located as possible as well as hopefully find first floor accommodations in hotel with private bath. I am interested in the local culture, others in the party need info on reliable hiking/trekking guides for Machu Picchu. Any suggestions of locations, guide books, travel agencies which specialize in this region would be most appreciated. Ross Wehner: Hmmm. I respect your determination to visit Peru and Machu Picchu! I would start with Moon Peru and look at the agencies mentioned there and then look at their websites. There are lots of great organizations. I would suggest Arequipa as a nice place for strolls and great food and a Europe-like atmosphere, Ollantaytambo for walking, Cusco and Machu Picchu. Good luck! _______________________ Baltimore, Md.: My partner and I would love to see machu picchu, however she has a heart condition and would not be able to make the strenuous hike up. Are there any individualized touring options, that are reasonably priced, to "ride" up on a mule (similar to the grand canyon)? Thanks so much for your time! Kind regards, Sharon Ross Wehner: check out the horse tours of Manu Expeditions, contact there is Barry Walker. _______________________ Sheldon, Iowa: My son (16) will be traveling to Peru May 26th-June 5th with his high school Spanish club--a group of approximately 10-13. Appropriate clothing for this time of year is a question to avoid overpacking. They will be visiting Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca along with other sites. They will be staying with host families in groups of 2. Do you have any "be sure not to miss" advice for these young students while visiting these sites or Peru in general? Food is also a concern they have. Thank you in advance for your assistance. Ross Wehner: I'm so excited for your son! I would suggest he bring lots of light layers (fleece and a rain jacket, one pair of long underwear and sturdy hiking pants). Without knowing specifically where they are going, I would certainly suggest he spend time in Ollantaytambo if he could in the Sacred Valley. He should be careful about food, and there are good recommendations in the Health and Safety section of Moon Peru on avoiding sickness and medicines to bring. Mostly he should keep his eyes open, look out for chances to connect meaningfully with local people and remember that he can sleep (and listen to his iPod) when he is back state-side! _______________________ Nashville, Tenn.: My husband and I travel with some close friends for a week in early March each year, and there is great interest in Macchu Pichu. We are in our mid-60s and definitely felt the effects of altitude (not sick; just weak and a bit light-headed) when visiting Colorado this past summer. How can one visit Macchu Pichu affordably and have sufficient "adjustment time?" Any advice appreciated. Ross Wehner: please see note above about altitude and also in the cusco chapter of Moon Peru. This is a really important factor to plan your trip around—though remember that Peru is in an southern latitude where the partial pressure of oxygen is denser than it is in our more northerly altitude. So a 14er in Colorado is much harder than a 14,000 foot pass in Peru. _______________________ Cedarhurst, N.Y.: Going to Peru Feb 18 via Miami-Lima-Cuzco. Any suggestions for restaurants in these 2 places? Ross Wehner: check out Moon Peru, filled with Kazia Jankowski's suggestions. She is probably the foremost US-based expert on Peruvian cuisine after visiting every decent recent in Peru over an 8-month period last year—and then writing about it in the book. _______________________ Grand Junction, Colo.: We want to plan a trip to Peru between Jan. 2-18, 2009 from Denver, CO that will include Machu Picchu, Lake Titticaca, and the Galapagos Islands off the coast of Ecuador. So far there are 5 adults ranging in age from 48 to 77, all English-speaking. What small group tour would be best to cover all that with English-speaking guides? We'd like to stay at the base of Machu Picchu and on a boat when visiting the Galapagos. Thanks, Karen Ross Wehner: That sounds like a lot to squeeze in in 16 days—and remember that January is the height of the rainy season in Machu Picch and Lake Titicaca, the latter being particularly miserable and cold (icy) this time of year. I would reconsider your dates and also spend those two weeks all in Peru—the Galapagos, in my mind, is a seperate trip all together and I think you will come back feeling quite rushed and perhaps that you did not get all your money's worth. The best agencies that I nkow of are in Moon Peru and also on andeantravelweb.com. _______________________ Portland, Ore.: I will be traveling to Peru and Argentina for two weeks on February 8th. I was disappointed to find out that the Inca Trail is closed during the month of February for trail maintenance. Can you recommend other options for hiking and interesting excursions in the Cuzco and/or Machu Picchu area? Thanks! Ross Wehner: yes—check out perusurnativa.com and other trekking agencies in the book. For pure trekking, the Huaraz (Cordillera Blanca and Huayhuash ranges) area of Peru cannot be beat—just see the movie Touching the Void to see what I mean! _______________________ Layton, Utah: Hi Ross, We're a group of six baby boomers planning a two-week trip to Peru on June 7, 2008 which will include a couple of days on the Amazon. We're coming from Connecticut and Utah. We'll be on a tour with Latin America 4 Less. What is your recommendation regarding yellow fever shots & malaria pills before the trip? Also, could you please offer some advice on weather at that time of year, any special events going on, and other "don't miss" tips? Thanks for your help! Ross Wehner: Yellow fever definitely. Regarding malaria, I have never taken those pills and have spent months in the Peruvian amazon but I would speak with your local travel clinic and consult the CDC website, which has up-to-date recommendations. There are no particular holidays that I know of on June 7, but the PromPeru website often has holidays lifted for different areas of Peru. Good luck! _______________________ Orlando, Fla.: I will be going to Machu Picchu in late March this year. What kind of weather can we expect? How do you deal with the altitude at Cuzco? How bad is Travelers Diarrhea in that area? Thanks Ross Wehner: Thank you for brining this up. Aguas Calientes, the town at the base of Machu Picchu, where most people stay has a terrible reputation for food sickness. Every member of my family has gotten sick there. Please splurge and treat yourself to a nice restaurant while you are there and order something safe—grilled meat or potatoes, no salads! see other above comments about altitude. _______________________ Annandale, Va.: What is the cheapest mode of transportation from Lima to Cuzco? Ross Wehner: Burro. Seriously, people have done it. I love your spirit! there are so many great ways to get to Cuzco from Lima and my favorite is going through Huancayo, Ayacucho and then onto Cusco. A huge adventure. Take individual buses from each city and enjoy the adventure you are about to embark upon. Do not take buses at night and, if you take cheap buses, do not put things in the overhead storage section. Ever. YOu can also take buses from Lima to Huarochiri, and cross the snow-covered range on foot, and then hitch hike or take buses onto to the highway that leadst to Huancayo. I did that and it was one of my best adventures ever—think outside the highways but be sensible and safe! _______________________ New York, N.Y.: My girlfriends and I (a group of four 28 year olds) are going to be hiking the Inca Trail in early May. In an attempt to minimize altitude sickness, we'll be spending three days in the Cuzco area. Can you recommend some things to do that will not be energy-intensive (we want to save our energy for the Inca Trail) and is not your typical boring museum? Are there some interesting day trips we should try? Ross Wehner: Ok this is the last question I can answer as they are shutting this webcast down.... I wasn't able to answer all questions but I think that I addressed them all with at least other responses. I would recommend you go to Ollantaytambo and spend a few days there horseback riding, hiking up and down the trails, exploring, visiting communities , etc. This will be a great prep for the Inka Trail. Have fun and thank you everyone for tuning in! _______________________ Lenoir City, Tenn.: I am just beginning to plan a trip for May of 2009 to Cuzco/MP area. There will be myself (55), who can't walk for very long at all, and 2 young hikers in their 20s who want to hike to MP. Any suggestions for the best location for us to stay, local transportation for me, and reliable tour guides for them? Ross Wehner: ok one last question—I could not resist. Follow the altitude suggestions made earlier—start in Sacred Valley (especially Ollantaytambo), then proceed to MP and finish in Cusco. Maybe you can lounge in Ollanta for a few days while the younger hikers do the Inka Trail. Then you can meet at Machu Picchu. One hotel that I highly recommend in Peru, and somehow did not make it into the edition of Moon Peru, is El Balcon Inn. Good luck!