Trip Coach: December 16, 2008

Your dollars go far in Argentina for meals and shopping, but not for hotels. As bargain-seekers fly in to sample Buenos Aires's famous steaks, wine, and tango lessons, they may be surprised that hotels, as a general rule, aren't cheap. Some booking strategies Watch out for the value-added tax (VAT) of 21 percent. Some hotels leave it off their price sheets, while others include it as part of the published rate. High season runs November through March, when swimming pools are especially in demand. Book a few months ahead for a choice spot. But that's about as far ahead as you may be able to reserve at many places. Double-digit inflation has kept some hoteliers from setting rates more than a few months in advance. Naturally, you'll want to verify all prices before you book. For a longer stay, consider renting an apartment by the week. Reputable agencies, such as B y T Argentina, list hundreds of digs by price range and neighborhood. Be aware of bargain-looking city hotels—albergues transitorios (or telos in local slang)—these charge by the hour and block all windows so straying spouses can keep a low profile. Look elsewhere for a traditional hotel experience. Light sleepers should ask for a room away from the street, especially on bus routes. Buenos Aires may be the noisiest city in South America. Public buses with screechy brakes run 24 hours a day. Buenos Aires's independent boutique hotels hit a sweet spot. They tend to be run out of renovated mansions and town houses bought at bargain prices during or after the financial crisis of 2001. The best ones offer a level of luxury and personalized service that's usually out of reach for bargain-minded travelers. You might pay as little as $120 to stay in an impeccably renovated 18th-century house. And you'll typically receive service that large, corporate-owned hotels can't provide. Below is our boutique hotel–heavy list of places to stay in Buenos Aires from about $85 to $175 a night—along with a classy hostel for good measure. Cheaper lodgings can be found, but these properties are among the city's best values. ART HOTEL 'Hood Recoleta/Barrio Norte, on a residential block with doctors' offices and sought-after apartment towers. Within a short walk of tourist must-sees, such as the Recoleta Cemetery (where Eva Perón is buried) and the fine-arts museum (Museo Nacional de Belles Artes). First Impression Relaxed civility. The six-story 1929 town house has an art gallery and café on its ground floor and a sundeck on its roof. A whirlpool bath is open in warm weather, typically between December and March. Rooms Thirty-five rooms are classified from "small & cozy" to "king." Elegant touches include canopied beds, wrought-iron work, French doors, and wood floors. Light sleepers may want to opt for the rooms in back, which are at a quiet remove from the street. Plus A fine value in a desirable area—plus it packs personality. Nearby competitors tend to be in anonymous towers. Minus Only the king rooms contain bathtubs, but not even kings have king-size beds: Queen-size beds are the largest ones here. Free Wi-Fi? Yes, in the lobby. Credit Cards Accepted AmEx, MC, Visa. Details Azcuenaga 1268, 011-54/11-4821-4744, arthotel.com.ar, doubles from $95, including VAT. Hotel Type Hotel. Relevant Lifestyle Romance, Family-friendly. Photos 1 of 4 AXEL HOTEL BUENOS AIRES 'Hood San Telmo, a densely packed historic neighborhood. Antique shops, church spires, and tango shows compete for your attention. Sotheby's "For Sale" signs in front of many buildings signal the area's gentrification. First Impression Architecturally at odds with the well-preserved neighborhood, Axel Hotel is modern and angular. It's a self-proclaimed "heterofriendly" luxury hotel chain for gay travelers. The top-floor swimming pool has a glass bottom that gives an eyeful to people five stories below in the lobby. If you're not a fitness buff, you'll wish you were. Rooms Most of the 48 rooms fall into two categories: "City" rooms provide views of the skyline (or of a parking lot, if you're unlucky) and "superior" rooms offer a view of Axel's second pool, which is surrounded by terraced sundecks in the style of an amphitheatre. All rooms are nearly soundproof. Clever wood sliding doors alternately conceal and reveal features in the compact rooms, blocking out, by turns, the sun or the closet, the bathtub or the minibar. A hydro-massage bathtub or shower is in each superior room, and a standard shower is in each city room. Interior glass walls leave a bather on display. Plus The top-floor pool is indoors and well heated for winter, with a sleek, expansive gym and spa nearby. Minus Axel's affordability vanishes during the summer high season. Free Wi-Fi? Yes, in all rooms and public areas. Credit Cards Accepted AmEx, MC, Visa. Details Venezuela 649, 011-54/11-4136-9393, axelhotels.com, doubles from $139, spike in summer. Hotel Type Hotel. Relevant Lifestyle Gay, Hip. Photos 1 of 2 BABEL HOTEL 'Hood San Telmo, on a cobblestoned street a couple of blocks from Plaza Dorrego, whose outdoor cafés are filled during the week and whose market of antiques and curiosities is crowded on Sundays. First Impression Is this what happens when hostels grow up? The owners were in the hostel business before renovating this 1842 mansion, giving it recessed lighting and modern, Scandinavian-style built-ins in elegant dark wood. It opened in August 2008, so everything still looks shiny. Rooms The nine rooms vary in carpet and tile colors, but little else. Four "superior" rooms are slightly larger than the remaining five "standard" rooms, but all amenities are the same (TVs, DVD players, safes, private bathrooms, to name a few). Two rooms peer onto the street. The others look onto a quiet, interior courtyard. Plus The co-owners promise a 24-hour bilingual staff who can book you a table at a fine restaurant, a tango lesson, or a horseback ride in the country. Minus No swimming pool. From the rooms, no views. No bathtubs (just showers). Free Wi-Fi? Yes, in all rooms and public areas. Credit Cards Accepted AmEx, MC, Visa. Details Balcarce 946, 011-54/11-4300-8300, hotelbabel.com.ar, doubles from $85. Hotel Type Hotel. Relevant Lifestyle Hip. Photos 1 of 4 BO-BO HOTEL 'Hood Palermo Soho, on a quiet cobblestoned street lined with tipa trees, just a block from the site of writer Jorge Luis Borges's childhood home. Nearby are hip restaurants and trendy boutiques, making the area feel a bit like Manhattan's SoHo district. First Impression An elegant, early-20th-century mansion with a stately façade, black-and-white marble floors, a central staircase, and lofty ceilings. Modern artwork, an efficient elevator, Wi-Fi, and copies of David Brooks's Bobos in Paradise in the common area all remind you we're in the 21st century. Rooms Seven rooms are decorated by theme: Argentine, Art deco, Classic, Minimalist, Pop, Rationalist, and Techno. The "deluxe" Pop room is playfully rendered in orange and green, with a shallow, street-facing balcony. Quiet-seekers should consider the Minimalist room: It faces a serene terrace filled with plants. Plus A tiny boutique hotel with many of the amenities of a full service hotel, such as a restaurant and an ample, 24/7 staff. Minus Word is out, and there are only seven spaces: Book two to three months in advance. Free Wi-Fi? Yes, in all rooms and public areas. Credit Cards Accepted AmEx, MC, Visa. Details Guatemala 4882, 011-54/11-4774-0505, bobohotel.com, doubles from $165. Hotel Type Hotel. Relevant Lifestyle Romance, Hip, Gay-friendly. Photos 1 of 3 HOME HOTEL 'Hood Palermo Hollywood, so named for its abundance of TV studios. Heavier on the nightlife and restaurant options than Palermo Soho, the shopping district across the train tracks. First Impression If only your agent could see you now. A U.K. record producer and an Argentine publicity director created Home after they got married in Buenos Aires several years ago and couldn't find a hotel they liked for their friends and family. They transformed this "chorizo house"—so-called because it curves around one side of a central courtyard the way a grilled chorizo sausage curves—with hip touches, such as poolside pod chairs, llama-wool throws, and vintage wallpaper (including an English 1960s flora-and-trellis pattern). Rooms The overarching style is a cool, mid-century modern—with floral prints and Chilean wool to warm things up. All 19 rooms are appointed with things you didn't know you needed—such as a safe that can hold your laptop, speakers for your iPod, and double-paned glass to shut out the street noise. Plus The pool, the sauna, and the spa treatments will help you recover from Palermo Hollywood's relentless nightlife. Minus It's been discovered the world over: Book at least three months in advance. Free Wi-Fi Yes, in all rooms and public areas. Credit Cards Accepted AmEx, MC, Visa. Details Honduras 5860, 011-54/11-4778-1008, homebuenosaires.com, doubles from $125, superior rooms from $175. Hotel Type Hotel. Relevant Lifestyle Hip, Romance, Gay-friendly. Photos 1 of 2 LA CAYETANA HISTORIC HOUSE 'Hood Monserrat, a quiet neighborhood, especially in contrast to the bustling city center nearby. First Impression A country house in the city. Step off the city street into an early-19th-century house. In back is a flower-filled courtyard garden with birds singing from the branches of a century-old fig tree. One family owned the house for 148 years. When the current owners bought it in 2005, they kept much of the original furniture and detailing. Old Italianate tiles, original chandeliers, and colored-glass windows adorn the public areas. Rooms Original mantels, wardrobes, and claw-foot tubs are classic touches in many of the 11 rooms. Smaller "standard" rooms run along the street in the oldest portion of the house, while the larger rooms look to the patio and courtyard. Two "master suites" are former stables. Plus The staff fires up the parrilla (barbeque) on Friday nights to roast Argentine, grass-fed beef for guests. Minus There's no restaurant, and the neighborhood is off the beaten path. Free Wi-Fi Yes, in all guest rooms and public areas. Credit Cards Accepted AmEx, MC, Visa. Details México 1330, 011-54/11-4383 2230, lacayetanahotel.com.ar, doubles from $120, executive suites from $140, master suites from $180, rincluding VAT. Hotel Type Inn/B&B. Relevant Lifestyle Romance, Family-friendly. Photos 1 of 3 MIRA VIDA SOHO 'Hood Palermo Soho, on a tiny plaza surrounded by trees in a smart neighborhood known for low-rise buildings and a bohemian vibe. First Impression Only six guest rooms—yet there is ample space in this 1930s mansion, which was thoroughly renovated to offer modern amenities while keeping its neoclassical origins. Owner James King opened Mira Vida's ground-floor wine bar in 2008 to introduce his guests to Argentine wine, especially malbec. The bar has become popular with some locals, too. Rooms Between the wine cellar and a rooftop sundeck, six guest rooms are simple, spacious, and luxurious. A flat-screen TV, French doors, and a private patio or balcony are typical amenities. Expect 12-foot cathedral ceilings in the two top-floor rooms. Plus The Canadian owner is around to offer advice in English. Minus With only six guest rooms and 24-hour staff, Mira Vida isn't for people seeking an anonymous stay. Free Wi-Fi? Yes, in all rooms and public areas. Credit Cards Accepted AmEx, MC, Visa. Details Darragueyra 2050, 011-54/11-4774-6433, miravidasoho.com, doubles from $128. Hotel Type Hotel. Relevant Lifestyle Romance, Family-friendly, Gay-friendly, Hip. Photos 1 of 3 TRIP RECOLETA HOSTEL 'Hood Recoleta, a tourism hotbed. The hostel is on the same block as a Hard Rock Café. The famous Recoleta Cemetery (where Evita is buried) is across the street. You can't get closer without dying. First Impression Feel like roughing it in a 1920s cabaret/bordello overlooking a cemetery that's crammed with Gothic mausoleums? If not, read no further. But budget-conscious Goths and their admirers will be delighted. Climb up one flight of tile-adorned steps to reach a floor of dorm rooms and one private room. Climb another flight for more of the same. But now look out the window—or, better yet, climb one more flight to the lounge deck—and: Wow. It's a view you won't soon forget. Cupolas, columns, angels, crosses, and stained glass compete for attention over every square inch of the walled city of the dead. Rooms Plain, clean, bright, Trip Recoleta offers four dorm rooms equipped with five to seven beds and two additional rooms that are singles or doubles, depending on the day. No private bathrooms. Families or groups of friends could take over a dorm room with a bit of negotiating with the owner. Plus For a sumptuous mid-afternoon splurge, wander into any one of Recoleta's nearby high-end hotels, such as Alvear and Park Hyatt. For about $25, sample teas and decadent pastries in sumptuously formal settings. Minus It's a hostel with shared bathrooms. The noise-averse and couples over the age of, say, 30 will want to stay away. Free Wi-Fi? Yes, in all rooms and public areas. Credit Cards Accepted AmEx, MC, Visa. Details Vincente Lopez 2180, 011-54/11-4807-8726, triprecoletahostel.com.ar, single bed in a dorm room from $14, including taxes, discounts for staying multiple nights. Hotel Type Hostel. Relevant Lifestyle Youth, Noise-tolerant adults. Photots 1 of 4

SALTA Colonial buildings, restaurants, and museums all radiate out from Salta's manicured main plaza. About a two-hour flight from Buenos Aires, Salta is the jumping-off point for exploring the region. Get your fill here before renting a car and leaving most of humanity behind. See Museo de Arqueología de Alta Montaña is the resting place for three mummified Incan children discovered in 1999 on the Llullaillaco volcano on the Chilean-Argentine border ($4.50, closed Mondays). Sacrificed to the Incan gods more than 500 years ago, the children are remarkably well preserved because of the volcano's high altitude and dry air. The nearby Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes has a fine-art collection that rivals its gorgeous 18th-century complex of courtyards, narrow balconies, and airy galleries (60 cents, closed Sundays). Eat At La Casona del Molino on the edge of town, it is easy to feel like you've stepped back in time a few centuries, as you dine on parrilla—meat slow grilled to melt-in-your-mouth tenderness—and listen to a guitarist sing Spanish and Argentine folk songs (011-54/387-434-2835). The chef at restaurant Jose Balcarce uses native foods like quinoa and llama to concoct flavorful, only-in-Salta dishes like llama carpaccio (011-54/387-421-1628). Shop Local artisans show off their handiwork, including silver jewelry, carved maté cups, and paintings, at the Sunday market on Balcarce Street. Sleep Carpe Diem Bed & Breakfast stands out for its personable service and homey feel (doubles from $74). Each room is decorated with antique furniture and has a computer with free high-speed Internet access. Co-owner Silke Schefold de Morsani is a great source for advice and help with making reservations for restaurants or car rentals. Prep You can pick up a rental car in Salta; Europcar has an office in town, at Cordoba 20 (011-54/387-421-8848). Credit cards are accepted at many hotels and restaurants across the region, but swing by an ATM before hitting the road; ATMs in smaller villages can be finicky with international cards. TO THE NORTH Leaving Salta, drive north to the Quebrada de Humahuaca, a windswept gorge that cuts through the Andes and forms a natural corridor from Argentina to Bolivia—a path once well trod by the Inca. Purmamarca, one of the southernmost villages in the Quebrada, is backed by a striking polychromatic hillside, Cerro de los Siete Colores. Wander the village's dusty streets, visit the Iglesia Santa Rosa de Lima off the south end of the plaza, and enjoy dinner next to the fireplace at Los Morteros (011-54/388-490-8063). • Sleep Hotel La Comarca on the outskirts of Purmamarca has a spa and a heated pool. Cactus-lined doors open up to bedrooms with wood floors and inviting white linens (doubles from $108). The hotel's restaurant terrace overlooks the surrounding mountains and encourages lingering over morning coffee. Route 52 snakes west from Purmamarca through a valley and rises to cross a mountain pass of nearly 13,700 feet. On the other side awaits Salinas Grandes, a blindingly white salt flat. The wind whips across the expansive plain, leaving a sense of emptiness and profound quiet. Wild donkeys and vicuñas, cousins to the llama, graze along the grassy patches lining the edge of the salt flat. Turning back, pass through Purmamarca and drive 14 miles north to Tilcara, a village with leafy courtyard cafés and shops selling pottery and handwoven ceremonial blankets. A ticket to Museo Arqueológico—repository of artifacts found across Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, and Peru—also provides entry to the Pucara de Tilcara, a pre-Hispanic fortress set amidst a grove of cardón cacti behind the village (011-54/388-495-5006). • Sleep The rustic adobe houses of Cerro Chico are clustered on a hillside outside Tilcara (doubles from $47). Almost constantly clear, blue sky frames the whitewashed colonial buildings and adobe houses of Humahuaca, a village about 24 miles north of Tilcara and more than 9,000 feet above sea level. It's the gateway to the puna, the high plateau landscape of the Andes that stretches onward to Bolivia. You're likely to feel the effects of the altitude, so take your time exploring the town's cobbled streets. Stop at the Iglesia de la Candelaria on Plaza Sargento Gómez to see the 18th-century oil painting The Twelve Prophets. At the restaurant Casa Vieja, decorated with colorful textiles and woven baskets, you can get tamales and locro, a hearty stew of corn, squash, and beef (011-54/388-742-1181). • Sleep Hosteria Solar de la Quebrada has six cozy rooms, some with views of the village (doubles from $44). TO THE SOUTH Go back toward Salta past the farms in the Valle de Lerma before turning west along Route 33—which climbs the moss-colored slopes of the Cuesta del Obispo. You'll reach a peaceful mountain pass with a small chapel at almost 11,000 feet. The road levels off here and crosses an arid plateau to Cachi, a village near the base of the snowcapped Nevado del Cachi. Check in to La Merced del Alto, a luxurious colonial-style hotel just up the hill from the small village (doubles from $122), and then return to Cachi's main plaza for some bruschetta and a glass of wine at Oliver's Café. Continue south toward Cafayate along legendary Route 40—stretching the length of the country, it's the Route 66 of Argentina. Pull over in Molinos to see its restored church and snack on empanadas in the shade of the courtyard at Hacienda de Molinos, a hotel opposite the church. The changing scenery is a distraction from the staccato rhythm of driving on unpaved road. There are patches of irrigated farm plots, and further along, jagged rock formations that are evidence of the area's turbulent tectonic past. Closer to Cafayate, vineyards begin to appear. One of the highest-altitude wine-producing regions in the world, Cafayate has quickly become a renowned wine destination. Bodegas Etchart and Bodega Domingo Hermanos are good vineyards for tasting torrontés, the area's cherished white wine. • Sleep Viñas de Cafayate is a boutique hotel on the edge of town built around a garden courtyard, with rooms facing out over the surrounding vineyard (doubles from $138). Pick up Route 68, which weaves its way back to Salta through the Quebrada de Cafayate. The drive takes in ever-changing colors and unexpected formations: red, orange and yellow-ocher mountainsides eroded by the wind into fanciful and unusual shapes. All prices are in U.S. dollars; all hotels rates include breakfast. Trip length: A minimum of six days is required.

What's it like to take a tiara through security? Usually the TSA agent looks at the screen...and then looks at it again. Then they examine the line of people.... They ask me, "Did you...win something?" To which my reply varies, depending on if I am in sweatpants or not! Sometimes it's just a quick nod, yep, and other times they want details. "Yes, ma'am...I'm...Miss America." After being on the road for 20,000 miles a month, what do you do differently on your trips now to make them go more smoothly that you didn't know about before you started? I always check in for my flights with the skycaps at the curb, at airports where that's available. There is usually little to no line, and sometimes they are less strict on weight allowance. :) And I try not to wear shoes with laces to the airport—less time going through security. You've been traveling almost for a full year now. Do you pack differently today than when you first started? And if so, is there any tip you could share about packing—Anything practical, specific, personal, vivid, funny, useful would be much appreciated. I'm a roller! I roll my clothes to save space and minimize wrinkles. I pack my hanging dresses on hangers, keep them in the plastic, and lay them flat in a separate suitcase, because I don't travel with a garment bag. And I ALWAYS put shampoo and conditioner and other messy toiletries in a safe plastic pouch in my suitcase. I've had too many explosions not to. I also put heavy items like shoes or other toiletries at the bottom end of my suitcase so when stood up, they do not fall down on other clothes and wrinkle or smush other things. Many Americans (young and old) haven't been as fortunate to be able to travel and see as much of the country as you have. Is there any tip or advice you might give them—either something to ease their fears or to inspire them, or a funny story from your own experience? If you are going on a small plane, always, always, ALWAYS go to the bathroom BEFORE you board! I have been in a few situations where I was just itching to get on the plane so I could use the restroom, only to find there was none aboard! That is the most horrible feeling in the world! You never never know. Also make sure to drink lots of water during the flight. If you hydrate yourself and cut back on caffeine during the flight, you'll get to your destination feeling much more refreshed and energized. In general, traveling in my job can get exhausting, but the opportunity to do so has helped me to see so many BEAUTIFUL places in this country and meet many fascinating people. The more I travel, the more I realize that people are really the same everywhere. And that is a good, good thing. We're all human. You've written, "State I've always wanted to visit: Georgia, because I love history; I want to visit the battlefields, the museums, and the plantations." Have you gotten to visit Georgia yet? If so, what is your top recommendation of things to see there? Yes, I have gotten to Georgia—Atlanta specifically—several times this year. Atlanta is such an amazing city, rich in history and drama from the last two centuries. I most loved visiting the Margaret Mitchell House, downtown Atlanta. Margaret Mitchell penned the American classic Gone With the Wind in Atlanta, and her epic story takes place in that great city. Her house is open as a museum; the gardens around are available for parties and weddings; and for lovers of the film, there is an adjacent movie museum. I love Civil War history, literature, and film, so it was an incredible visit. It was also fascinating to learn more about the life of Ms. Mitchell, an incredibly smart woman, and behind the scenes, a staunch advocate and financial supporter of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.'s civil rights movement. She had quite a life, and her house is an amazing tribute to the power of American literature, Civil War history, and the civil rights movement. I definitely recommend it. :) You're third-generation Swedish, I believe. Have you been to Sweden, and if so, what might be something specific that you enjoyed seeing there? I have not been to Sweden! I have traveled throughout Europe many times and love the continent, the history, the culture, the people, the food, the physical beauty. And having ties to Sweden, I put it at the top of my list of places I want to visit.

ZOOS This time of year, many zoos brighten up their grounds and buildings with animated scenes "drawn" with thousands of glittering lights. Chicago The Lincoln Park Zoo's ZooLights includes an endangered species carousel, train rides, temporary tattoos, and spiced wine and holiday cocktails. 2200 N. Cannon Dr., 312/742-2000, free. New York City Live reindeer and horse-drawn carriage rides are among the highlights of the Bronx Zoo's Wild Winterland, which also includes ice-carving demonstrations and marshmallows for roasting. 2300 Southern Blvd., 718/220-5100, from $11. Oakland At the Oakland Zoo Lights, more than 120 animals are portrayed in illuminated scenes. 9777 Golf Links Rd., 510/632-9525, from $6. Portland, Ore. Displays at the Oregon Zoo's ZooLights include swinging monkeys, leaping frogs, and diving penguins: Real-life mountain goats and farm animals also join the party. 4001 SW Canyon Rd., 503/226-1561, from $6. San Diego The zoo's 20th Festival of Lights includes a puppet show, a light show, and night tours of the Journey into Africa exhibit. 2920 Zoo Dr., 760/796-5615, from $26. ICE SKATING New York City Skating's free if you bring your own skates to the Pond at Bryant Park. Hot chocolate and lots of holiday shops are both close by. 42nd St. and 6th Ave., 866/221-5157, rentals $12. Chicago The McCormick Tribune Ice Rink in Millennium Park sees more than 100,000 skaters annually. 55 N. Michigan Ave., 312/742-1168, rentals $10. None of the Chicago Park District's eight outdoor skating rinks charge admission. San Francisco The Holiday Rink at the Embarcadero Center lets you skate just a few blocks away from the bay. Justin Herman Plaza, 1 Market St., 415/837-1931, admission from $5, rental from $4. Kansas City Downtown's Crown Center Ice Terrace has a canopy that offers some protection from the elements. 2405 Grand Blvd., 816/274-8411, admission $6, rental $3. Atlanta Overlooking downtown, Atlanta's only outdoor skating rink is in Centennial Olympic Park. 265 Park Ave. West NW, 404/223-4412, admission $7, rental $2. Philadelphia Near the Benjamin Franklin Bridge, the RiverRink at Penn's Landing will have good views of the New Year's Eve fireworks. Delaware Ave. and Chestnut St., 215/925-7465, admission from $7, rental $3. MUSEUMS Washington D.C. The many holiday events happening in and around the National Gallery of Art include caroling in the decorated West Building Rotunda as well as holiday sweets like mulled cider and cocoa. There's also an ice rink nearby. 4th St. and Constitution Avenue NW, 202/737-4215, free. Atlanta During the High Museum's Hands on for the Holidays, kids can craft replicas of the stained glass windows and medieval swords now on loan from London's Victoria and Albert Museum. 1280 Peachtree St. NE, 404/733-4444, from $11, starts Dec. 26. New York City The wreaths and garlands at the Cloisters are inspired by the Middle Ages; events include a class on medieval food that lets you create tableware you can take home. 99 Margaret Corbin Dr., 212/650-2280, suggested donation from $10. Denver The very popular Holiday High Tea at the Molly Brown House includes a tour of the museum, the famous Titanic survivor's last residence, which is all decked out for the holidays. Candlelit tours are also available. 1340 Pennsylvania St., 303/832-4092, from $13. CHRISTMAS FAIRS New York City Held on Sundays before Christmas and run by the upscale Brooklyn Flea group, the Gifted holiday market brings together carefully chosen vendors selling antiques, handmade items, toys, and jewelry. Brooklyn Masonic Temple, 317 Clermont Ave., free. Austin The Blue Genie Art Bazaar gets its stock from more than 100 local artists. Monarch Event Center, 6406 North IH-35, 512/371-1711, free. Denver The traditional items at the Christkindl Market include hand-carved wooden figurines as well as German food and drinks. 16th St. Mall and Arapahoe St., free. Bethlehem, Pa. Live entertainment and German and Austrian food give a little extra authenticity to the town's Christkindlmarkt, which has aisle after aisle of handmade works. Spring and Main Sts., $8. Houston Discovery Green, a market open on Thursdays, is now selling stocking stuffers, ornaments, and other seasonal gifts. There's also a skating rink. 1001 Ave. De Las Americas, 713/400-7336, free.