London: Clerkenwell & Environs

SEE Carnaby Street The trendy center of Swinging London in the 1960s, thanks to a raft of funky boutiques. After falling from favor--by the 1980s, the boutiques were mostly replaced with tacky souvenir stalls--it's enjoyed a recent revival. There's now a new crop of interesting, offbeat clothing stores that are both browsable and affordable, especially near Foubert's Place. SEE Leicester Square This hub of London's entertainment district is lined with cinemas--including the massive UCI Empire and Odeon outposts--and has a handy half-price theater ticket outlet (a squat stone booth on the south side of the square). The once-tawdry green space at the center of the square was spiffed up in the 1990s. SEE Gerrard Street Wander down Gerrard Street for the sights and smells of London's bustling Chinatown. Sure, it's a little artificial--especially the cutesy temple-style phone booths and garish red gateways at either end--but the largely Cantonese restaurants are always packed. EAT Andrew Edmunds 46 Lexington St., 20/7437-5708 A romantic hideaway amid the bustle, this ramshackle eclectic eatery's a low-key place for star-spotting because of the dozens of film companies headquartered nearby. EAT Bar Italia 22 Frith St., 20/7437-4520, baritaliasoho.co.uk Since the 1950s, this 24-hour café has been pulling espressos for locals and tourists alike. Stop here for some chocolate cake and a frothy cappuccino at 2 a.m. EAT Busaba Eathai 106-110 Wardour St., 20/7255-8686 A burgeoning Thai chainlet that's a smart budget stop in the center of town. Designed like a canteen--expect to share a table--the decor is all dark afromosia wood set off by paper lamp shades. SPLURGE Sketch 9 Conduit St., 870/777-4488 A white-hot, all-white restaurant that's gained notoriety for wallet-busting prices as well as an experimental menu, overseen by Michelin-superstar Pierre Gagnaire--think chocolate cake with black pepper ice cream. But its appeal doesn't end with the food--at 11 p.m., tables are cleared in the informal Gallery area so that guests can dance. Don't miss the sparkling, Swarovski-sponsored bathrooms, inspired by jewelry boxes. DRINK Floridita 100 Wardour St., 20/7314-4000, floriditalondon.com New Cuban-style restaurant and bar based on Hemingway's favorite hangout in Havana: Order a mojito to banish a bout of London's standard summer-rain or winter blues. DRINK Milk & Honey 61 Poland St., 20/7292-9949, mlkhny.com Old-school cocktails mixed to perfection in a dimly lit, speakeasy-style space: You have to ring ahead to make a reservation; press the buzzer on the unmarked door for entry. Closed Sun. SHOP Concrete 35a Marshall St., 20/7434-4546, concretelondon.com One of the hottest, hipper-than-thou concept stores in London, decked out like a louche living room, and stocking many a rising name in fashion and homewares. Closed Sun. SHOP Foyles 113-119 Charing Cross Rd., 20/7437-5660, foyles.co.uk In the heart of booksellers' row in London, Foyles is one of the largest independent booksellers in the world. Thanks to a recent overhaul, it's now a joy to browse. PLAY Prince Charles Cinema 7 Leicester Pl., 20/7494-3654, princecharlescinema.com Bargain cinema that shows first-run movies at a few months' lag--and at a significant savings (£3 to £10 a film). There's also a long-running rep season with arty classics, foreign films, and campy favorites. ESCAPE Cambridge 906/586-2526 (toll number), visitcambridge.org Hop on the train at Liverpool Street Station in London, and it's barely an hour's ride to the historic city of Cambridge. It's a much better option than Oxford, whose ancient buildings and collegiate vibe are overrun by the huge town surrounding it. Since Cambridge is much smaller, you'll gain a better sense of the university's history and hallowed halls. The enormous chapel attached to King's College is a world-famous Gothic masterpiece, while the smaller chapel at Pembroke College is a little-known work by Sir Christopher Wren, the designer of St. Paul's Cathedral. Using the "loo" Many public restrooms enforce a pay-to-use policy--either with attendants or coin-operated stall doors. Have at least 20p (pence) at all times to avoid unfortunate accidents.

BAYSWATER Vancouver Studios 30 Prince's Sq., 20/7243-1270, vancouverstudios.co.uk The large but simple rooms are self-contained apartments, with full kitchens and antique-style decor, but the real draw is the secluded, leafy garden out back--a fountain-filled oasis away from the bustle of the streets nearby. Friendly staff, doubles from £90. BLOOMSBURY Harlingford Hotel 61-63 Cartwright Gardens, 20/7387-1551, harlingfordhotel.comRecently spruced-up budget hotel with a vaguely heraldic vibe (and even a roaring fire in the lounge). Bedrooms are smart but small, while the snazzy bathrooms boast brand-new, hyper-designed fixtures. Breakfast includes a full English fry-up. Doubles from £99. BLOOMSBURY The Jenkins Hotel 45 Cartwright Gardens, 20/7387-2067, jenkinshotel.demon.co.uk Comfy, traditional B&B in a Georgian town house with a low-key, friendly vibe; large, if overly floral bedrooms; and an affable owner who'll happily help with tips on London. Doubles from £85. CLERKENWELL The Zetter Restaurant & Rooms 86-88 Clerkenwell Rd., 20/7324-4444, thezetter.com London's trendiest hotel du jour, the Zetter was fashioned from a disused warehouse, so think minimalist, industrial chic in the smallish rooms. But it's smart touches, like vending machines dispensing gin and tonics in the corridors, that really count. Rooms from £158. EARL'S COURT Rushmore Hotel 11 Trebovir Rd., 20/7370-3839, rushmore-hotel.co.ukGorgeous, gloriously over the top, and like the boudoir of an Italian princess: Walls are covered with trompe l'oeil paintings, while beds are festooned with heavy drapes. Great fun and great value. Doubles from £79. HYDE PARK Pavilion Hotel 34-36 Sussex Gardens, 20/7262-0905, pavilionhoteluk.comRelease your inner rock star at this kitschy hotel. Rooms have different names and themes--try the Honky Tonk Afro (disco ball, heart-shaped headboards) or the Highland Fling (tartan, tartan, and more tartan). Doubles from £100. MARYLEBONE Sherlock Holmes Hotel 108 Baker St., 20/7486-6161, sherlockholmeshotel.comRooms look like a Savile Row tailor's pied-a-terre: pin-striped sheets, plenty of leather, and a neutral color scheme--Sherlock Holmes would be proud. The snazzy on-site bar is a great place for a drink or two. Doubles from £133. SOUTH BANK The Mad Hatter Hotel 3-7 Stamford St., 20/7401-9222, fullershotels.com This no-fuss, homey spot close to the Tate Modern is owned by a brewery and pub chain. Rooms are large, if a little too reliant on chintz. Prices often drop on weekends. Doubles from £95. SOUTH KENSINGTON Hotel 167 167 Old Brompton Rd., 20/7373-0672, hotel167.com Stashed in a Victorian town house, this artsy, offbeat hotel combines modern touches--black-and-white tiling, contemporary art--with ramshackle pine-and-wicker furniture for a Sloaney, boho vibe. Doubles from £99. HOT GOSSIP Forget Us Weekly and People: The real home of celebrity gossip is London. A raft of celeb-tastic weeklies documents the loves, lives, and misbehaviors of every B- and C-list star imaginable. Pick up a copy or two to learn about England's celebrity obsession. Heat is the granddaddy of them all, with a mischievous sense of fun and a witty, ironic take on even the most sacrosanct movie stars--its "Celebrities Uncensored" section spotlights unflattering and revealing paparazzi shots. With page after page of "at home with..." celebrity photo spreads, Hello! and OK! are like valentines to the stars they feature: adoring, uncritical, and soft-focused. Most Brits, though, read them for the unintentionally hilarious interviews. Zoo and Nuts are both aimed at men--an unusual target for celeb weeklies. Soft-core photo shoots and sports coverage are standard fare. As for Closer and Now, they're by far the trashiest options, usually packed with D-list TV stars and reality-show types.

TO / FROM THE AIRPORT Gatwick and Heathrow Express Trains Gatwick (LGW): 845/850-1530, gatwickexpress.com Heathrow (LHR): 845/600-1515, heathrowexpress.comThese two high-speed rail services connect the main airports with central London. Heathrow Express runs about every 15 minutes from 5 a.m. until 12 a.m. daily; £14 one way, £26 round trip; the journey lasts around 15 minutes and terminates at Paddington Station. Gatwick Express runs every 15 minutes or so from 5 a.m. to 1:30 a.m. daily; £12 one way, £23.50 round trip; the journey lasts half an hour and terminates at Victoria Station. London Underground 20/7222-1234, tfl.gov.uk At Heathrow, a slower but cheaper option is to hop on the London Underground's Piccadilly line. It costs £3.80 one way to get into central London. The downside is the duration (budget at least an hour for the journey) and current engineering works related to the construction of Heathrow's Terminal 5, which means that a free shuttle bus replaces the Tube at the line's final stop at Terminal 4. Bus 870/580-8080, nationalexpress.com National Express bus service runs from central London's Victoria Station to Heathrow, though it's not as handy as the express trains (see above). It leaves roughly every 30 minutes from 7 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. daily and costs £10 each way. GETTING AROUND Underground and Bus 20/7222-1234, tfl.gov.ukThe London Underground network comprises 12 lines; it runs from 5 a.m. until at least 12 a.m. The bus network runs 24 hours. London is divided into six zones; a one-way ticket within central London (Zones 1 and 2) costs £2.30. A one- or three-day Travelcard allows unlimited journeys after 9:30 a.m. on bus and Tube. One-day Travelcards cost £4.70, and the three-day version £15. Pick up Travelcards at any London Underground station. London Rail 20/7222-1234, tfl.gov.uk The overground rail network that connects London to the rest of England is also handy within the city limits, especially if you're exploring south of the river. Travelcards are also valid on these services within the same zones. Taxis 871/871-8710 The minimum fare for a ride in a black cab--a misnomer, since they're often wrapped in multicolored adverts--is £2.20; rates are then variable by mileage and speed, but expect a premium of 60p to £1 on nights and weekends. WHAT'S GOING ON AROUND TOWN Free in Tube Stations   Metro newspaper, Mon.--Fri. At Newsstands   Time Out magazine, timeout.co.uk   MetroLife magazine, free with the Evening Standard newspaper every Thursday, thisislondon.co.uk   The Guide magazine, free with The Guardian newspaper every Saturday, guardian.co.uk TOURS The Original London Walks 20/7624-9255, walks.comExhaustive, wide-ranging selection of historical tours on foot. The Jack the Ripper walk is arguably the best known, but it's worth exploring some of the more esoteric options: Shakespearean actor Edward Petherbridge still leads occasional theatrical jaunts, for example. Price: £5.50. Original London Sightseeing Tour 20/8877-1722, theoriginaltour.com Traditional tour by bus--in a double-decker, no less--which hits all the city's major sights in 90 minutes or so. You can hop on and off at any point on the route; tickets are available at most hotels or London Transport offices. Price: £15. Silvercane Tours 772/071-5295, silvercanetours.com Simon Rodway is a qualified Blue Badge guide, with unbeatable historical knowledge; what sets him apart is his wit and the offbeat topics of his tours, which range from Bridget's Big Knickers Walk to the forgotten bohemian enclave of Fitzrovia. Price: £100 for private individual or group tours NUMBERS TO KNOW   Directory inquiries 118-500   Emergencies Police, fire, ambulance, 999   Theater See Tickets, 871/220-0260   Sports & concert tickets Ticketmaster, 870/534-4444   Tourist info 20/7234-5800   International access code 011   Country code 44   City code 20 All London phone numbers start with "7" (central) or "8" (outer neighborhoods). Add a "0" before numbers when dialing within the U.K.

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