London: West to Chelsea

SEE Theatre Museum Russell St., 20/7943-4700, theatremuseum.orgUnfairly neglected in favor of the market nearby, this outpost of the Victoria & Albert celebrates the lives of acting legends such as David Garrick with more than three centuries' worth of trinkets. Saturday's an interactive day with workshops and makeup classes for kids. Open Tues.--Sun., 10 a.m.--6 p.m. Free. EAT The Ivy 1 West St., 20/7836-4751, caprice-holdings.co.uk Still the best place in London to spot a celeb or two--note the hordes of paparazzi permanently stationed out front. As worthwhile for its food as for its scene, its menu's heavy on comfort staples like crab cakes. Booking ahead is essential. EAT Rules 35 Maiden Ln., 20/7836-5314 The place where time stands still: Rules seems much the same as it was when Dickens was a regular 200 years ago. Expect to eat lots and lots of game (in season, from the northern England estate the restaurant owns). The dining room is like a gentleman's club, so dress up if you want to feel you belong. DRINK Punch & Judy 40 The Market, 20/7379-0923 Packed every night, often with yuppie office workers, and the beer's overpriced. But that's not the point: On a summer's night, the terrace balcony overlooking the piazza is the best place for a drink in central London. SHOP Bailey 5-11 Shorts Gardens, 20/7836-6097Christopher Bailey's menswear is a design insider's choice, from his slim-fit shirts--often emblazoned with his trademark curlicue B--to his roomy jeans and offbeat accessories (silver knuckle-dusters and huge cuff watches). SHOP Dress Circle 57-59 Monmouth St., 20/7240-2227, dresscircle.co.ukThe store sells anything show-related. There are the standard CDs and posters, as well as scores, programs, and even specialist magazines. The staff's exhaustive knowledge--and gossipy know-how on the current West End scene--is a major plus. SHOP Muji 135 Long Acre, 20/7379-0820, muji.co.uk Minimalist Japanese chain selling stationery, homewares, furniture, and clothing. It's all simple and smartly designed--heavy on unbleached paper and Perspex. What's more, prices are always reasonable. The pocket screwdriver sets are particularly nifty. SPLURGE Koh Samui 65-67 Monmouth St., 20/7240-4280 Lush and hushed, this smallish boutique is the go-to choice for glamour girls in London. There's barely a rack that isn't packed with must-haves: Chloé, Balenciaga, and Missoni, as well as a smattering of rising fashion stars. Cash in the mortgage and splash out. RAISING THE BRA The buzziest blog in London isn't media-centric or political-scandal-rousing--it's by an anonymous, high-class call girl (belledejour.co.uk). With the nom de plume Belle de Jour, in honor of the classic film, she's just snagged a book deal to reprint her exploits. If you'd rather have your fun than read about it, head for one of these high-end lingerie shops for a real souvenir to remember. Agent Provocateur 6 Broadwick St., 20/7439-0229, agentprovocateur.com Run by the son of original fashion rebel Vivienne Westwood, this shop kick-started the upscale lingerie trend in Britain, and is still a reliable choice: The pink-and-black boxes are to marabou thongs and half-cup bras what robin's-egg blue is to diamonds. Myla 77 Lonsdale Rd., 20/7221-9222, myla.com Stocks designer lingerie (the pearl-encrusted G-string is a popular choice) as well as a signature line of accessories reimagined as art objects by designers like Tom Dixon. Rigby & Peller 22a Conduit St., 20/7491-2200, rigbyandpeller.com Bra-fitters to the Queen, but non-HRH types can come for a free fitting--the women who work here are experienced enough to size you up without even measuring. Splurge on a new bra in your new size (it's almost guaranteed you're wearing the wrong one) and never look back. Closed Sun.

SEE Madame Tussauds Marylebone Rd., at Baker St. 870/400-3000, madame-tussauds.co.ukIrresistible kitsch and fun, Tussauds is London's premier tourist draw. Skip the Clooney and Pitt-dominated Garden Party at the start and head for the Great Hall, where there's an impressive selection of historical figures, or linger in the gory Chamber of Horrors. Go late in the day: The crowds are thinner and the entry price is lower, too. Open Mon.--Fri., 9:30 a.m.--5:30 p.m.; weekends, 9 a.m.--6 p.m. Admission: £13--£22, depending on time of day. SEE Wallace Collection Hertford House, Manchester Sq., 20/7563-9500 wallacecollection.org Stashed in a quiet square, this French château-style mansion is full of antiques and paintings inherited and collected by the illegitimate, art-loving heir of the Marquess of Hertford. There's a heavy emphasis on French finery--Sèvres porcelain, Louis XIV furniture--as well as Boucher and Fragonard canvases, and a smattering of English work by the likes of Reynolds and Gainsborough. Open daily, 10 a.m.--5 p.m. Free. EAT Eat and Two Veg 50 Marylebone High St., 20/7258-8595 Airy vegetarian restaurant with ample seating and a refreshingly varied menu, from meatless burgers to tofu sausage 'n' mash or hotpot. Weekend brunch is especially hopping and fun. EAT Golden Hind 73 Marylebone Lane, 20/7486-3644 Is there such a thing as chic fish and chips? Yes, if you stop by this retro joint in Marylebone's gourmet ghetto, complete with vintage Bakelite fryer. Alongside standard cod and chips, expect offbeat extras such as deep-fried mussels. Closed Sun. SHOP Daunt Books 83 Marylebone High St., 20/7224-2295 Book-lovers' mecca, with piles of new releases arranged by the door. A vast selection of travel books (including guides, memoirs, and maps) fills three floors at the back of the store. SHOP Get Up Boutique 9 Ashbridge St., 20/7725-9694,  weardowney.com Cute and quirky independent boutique run by a pair of designers who live and knit on site. Wrap dresses, knickers, and cardigans for women, and a few pairs of handmade cotton boxer shorts for men. Closed Sun. PLAY Royal Academy of Music Marylebone Rd., 20/7873-7300, ram.ac.ukThe alma mater of composers such as Arthur Sullivan and Michael Nyman combines an on-site instrument museum (you can hear the Stradivarius playing on headphones) with a regular series of free lunchtime and evening concerts. Call or check the website for schedules. DRINK Salt Whisky Bar 82 Seymour St., 20/7402-1155, saltbar.com Dram-downing whiskey lovers should make a pilgrimage to this dark and cozy bar with its thick plastic Perspex counter and its flickering tealights. The range of available whiskies is staggering, taking in everything from Islay malts to Japanese-made concoctions. DRINK The Social 5 Little Portland St., 20/7636-4992 On Marylebone's southern outskirts, a reliable DJ bar serving a short menu of comfort staples like beans on toast, as well as the usual range of draft beers. But most people come to listen to the eclectic, unusual roster of turntablists, who play everything from hard-core house to retro salsa. SPLURGE The Providores and Tapa Room 109 Marylebone High St., 20/7935-6175, theprovidores.co.ukLondon's legendary palace of fusion food, run by the affable New Zealander Peter Gordon. The two-story space boasts a downstairs spot known as the Tapa Room, which offers tasting portions of its Pacific Rim menu; upstairs is a clean all-white space for pricier, larger portions of globe-trotting gourmet food. The steamed sugar snap peas are delicious. ESCAPE Hampton Court Palace 870/752-7777, hrp.org.ukForget Windsor Castle--it's little more than a white turret with a few fusty staterooms attached (the Queen's rarely spotted, anyway). True monarchy maniacs should head to Hampton Court. A schizophrenic palace, it was built in two eras and two sections: From one side, it's an ornate, multi-chimneyed Renaissance sprawl (and residence of wife-swapper Henry VIII in the 16th century), while from the other, it's a pale-granite neo-Classical palace (thanks to husband-and-wife team William and Mary, who remodeled it nearly 200 years later). Poke around and see if you spot one of the many ghosts said to haunt the corridors here, but make sure to leave plenty of time to explore the fiendish yew maze on the grounds. Admission: £12.

SEE Tate Modern Bankside in Southwark, near the Millennium Bridge 20/7401-5120 tate.org.uk/modernMuseum in a converted power station was an instant hit on opening five years ago. It houses the Tate Gallery's collection of contemporary art, arranged by theme, and its always-excellent temporary exhibits. The vast hall at its center is used for show-stopping, space-specific single installations. Open Sun.--Thurs., 10 a.m.--6 p.m.; Fri. and Sat., 10 a.m.--10 p.m. Free. SEE The Saatchi Gallery County Hall, Belvedere Rd., 20/7823-2363 saatchi-gallery.co.ukAdman-turned-art collector Charles Saatchi championed the rebellious YBAs (Young British Artists), including Damien Hirst and Tracey Emin, in the early 1990s, and has now opened a public space to showcase his holdings. The traditional, wood-paneled rooms are a strong contrast to the conceptual, offbeat art. Open Sun.--Thurs., 10 a.m.--8 p.m.; Fri. and Sat., 10 a.m.--10 p.m. Admission: £8.75. SEE British Airways London Eye Riverside Building, next to County Hall 870/500-0600 ba-londoneye.comFor the best views of London, book a 30-minute flight in one of the pods that slowly trundle around this 450-foot-tall Ferris wheel. To check for times and minimize the wait in line, buy a ticket in advance at londoneye.com. Hours vary throughout the year. Closed in Jan. and on Christmas Day. Admission: £12.50. EAT Anchor & Hope 36 The Cut, 20/7928-9898 Waterfront gastropub serving traditional British ales and a list of affordable wines and sherries alongside inventive, unusual dishes such as preserved rabbit. Desserts are a high point; try the creamy rhubarb pudding. Open for lunch and dinner Tues.--Sat., dinner only Mon., and closed Sun. SPLURGE Le Pont de la Tour 36d Shad Thames, Butler's Wharf, 20/7403-8403, conran.comClassic Terence Conran megaplex-- with a bakery, food shop, and bar and grill-- though the best part is the summertime outdoor seating, which has an unbeatable view of Tower Bridge. Warning: The game-heavy menu is expensive, but it's worth every penny. SPLURGE Oxo Tower Restaurant, Bar and Brasserie Eighth Fl., Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House St. 20/7803-3888, harveynichols.comLoud and brash, but the views from this elevated eatery can't be beat, especially from the terrace. The modern European food is pricey but tasty, so limit yourself to a glass of wine at the bar if you're on a tight budget. DRINK Baltic 74 Blackfriars Rd., 20/7928-1111The food at this eastern European eatery is so-so, but most people come for the astonishingly wide selection of homemade vodkas-- try them either in cocktails, or better, as shots. It's especially lively late at night, when the restaurant empties out, the bar fills up, and the music pumps. DRINK Royal Oak 44 Tabard St., 20/7357-7173A 19th-century alehouse that boasts vintage fixtures, classic Sussex ales, and what looks like a few of its original clients, too. SHOP Oxo Tower Wharf Barge House St., 20/7401-2255, oxotower.co.uk Beneath the restaurant (see listing below), you'll find a sprawling complex of shoebox-size studios and retail spaces offering ceramics and handmade textiles, all beautifully chic and understated. There's an art gallery on the ground floor. PLAY National Theatre South Bank next to the Waterloo Bridge The Cut, 20/7452-3400, nationaltheatre.org.ukSure, the building is monstrously ugly-- a relic of 1970s urban planning-- but the programming more than makes up for it: Instead of the jukebox musicals taking over the West End, the three auditoriums are a rotating selection of plays, both classics and premieres. (The latest hit was an adaptation of Philip Pullman's His Dark Materials trilogy.) Ticket prices from £10. Come summer, the central concrete piazza is used for free performances every night but Sunday. PLAY Old Vic Theatre Waterloo Rd., 870/060-6628, oldvictheatre.comKevin Spacey has brought cachet and Hollywood glamour to the Old Vic during his tenure as artistic director-- pity the productions have been so hit-and-miss. Even so, it's worth checking out his latest offering, as it's guaranteed to feature prestigious screen names slumming it on the stage. Ticket prices from £10. ESCAPE Brighton 906/711-2255 (toll number), visitbrighton.comThere are plenty of reasons to spend a day on England's south coast-- only an hour or so by train from Victoria Station. For one thing, the shopping in Brighton-- the best outside London-- is mostly independent boutiques crammed into the network of cobbled alleys known as The Lanes. Another draw is the impressive Regency folly known as the Royal Pavilion, with its bizarre Eastern-influenced architecture. And lastly, crowds flock to Brighton for the town's nightlife: Clubs are often cooler than in London, and usually feature fierce up-and-coming bands and DJs.

SEE Geffrye Museum 136 Kingsland Rd., 20/7739-9893, geffrye-museum.org.ukOne of London's hidden gems, the Geffrye was set up just before WWI as a museum of interior design to train craftsmen working in London's furniture industry nearby. Now it's a greatest hits of decorating, showcasing period rooms from the 1600s to the present day--there's even a minimalist '90s loft. Tues.--Sat., 10 a.m.--5 p.m.; Sun., noon--5 p.m. Free. SEE Hoxton The unofficial headquarters of the artsy Cool Britannia movement, thanks to the White Cube gallery and a raft of artists such as Rachel Whiteread snapping up studio space. Spend an afternoon browsing the dozens of independent galleries along Charlotte Road, then grab a drink at one of the restaurants that rim the square. SEE St. John's Gate St. John's Ln. at Clerkenwell Rd., 20/7324-4073, sja.org.uk Medieval priory once home to the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, better known as the Knights Hospitallers, who defended the Holy Land. All that's left is this stone gate at the southern edge, which houses an intriguing museum of Middle Ages ephemera describing the history of the voluntary first-aid organization the St. John Ambulance. Mon.--Fri., 10 a.m.--5 p.m.; Sat., 10 a.m.--4 p.m. Free. EAT St. John Restaurant 26 St. John St., 20/7251-0848, stjohnrestaurant.comA pioneer in reviving the derelict neighborhood of Smithfield, St. John's whitewashed walls and rugged wooden fixtures are a nod to its past as a smokehouse. Nowadays, expect to eat a hearty selection of all-English cuisine: plenty of offal (spleen, brains, and liver are staples), plus long-neglected desserts like Eccles currant-filled puffed pastries. Closed Sun. EAT Smiths of Smithfield 66-77 Charterhouse St., 20/7251-7950, smithsofsmithfield.co.uk Warehouse-style, four-floor eating megaplex serving traditional British grub: snacks and beer on the first floor, champagne and cocktails on the second. There's a brasserie on the third floor, and a swanky, pricey restaurant at the top. Brasserie and champagne bar closed Sun. DRINK Cargo 83 Rivington St., 20/7739-3440, cargo-london.com Hip Shoreditch hybrid bar/club/restaurant: late-night live acts are reliable and eclectic, while both food and drink are Latin-inflected street snacks like tangy quesadillas and freshly made caipirinhas. DRINK Loungelover 1 Whitby St., 20/7012-1234, loungelover.co.uk Campy, over-the-top lounge, decked out like the love child of a pawn shop and a brothel, with red velvet drapes, mismatched stools, and huge chandeliers. Allow time to browse the 16-page cocktail list; if in doubt, try the Mrs. Robinson (Cognac and Drambuie). Closed Sun. DRINK Match EC1 45-47 Clerkenwell Rd., 20/7250-4002, matchbar.com Sleek steel bi-level cocktail bar that's buzziest in the early evening with the after-work crowd. Order a Dark and Stormy or a classic martini--cocktail king Dale de Groff was behind the drink list. Closed Sun. SHOP Family Tree 53 Exmouth Mkt., 20/7278-1084, familytreeshop.co.uk Artsy and eclectic boutique: The owners and their friends make much of the wares, which includes sleek jewelry, hand-screened T-shirts, and handmade purses. Closed Sun. SHOP Microzine 66-67 Colebrooke Row, Islington, 20/7704-6667, microzine.co.uk Take a short Tube ride north into Islington to find what's likely the hottest store in London: the men's megastore known as Microzine. It's a hybrid boutique and magazine: Its stock changes every month like a new issue, and everything is for sale, even the fixtures. Open Mon.--Fri., 11 a.m.--6 p.m.; Sat., 10 a.m.--7 p.m.; Sun., noon--6 p.m. SHOP SCP 135-139 Curtain Rd., 20/7739-1869, scp.co.uk A contemporary furniture showroom that commissions big names such as Michael Sodeau but also stocks products by local artisans working in the Hoxton studios. Stop by to browse for big items, or pick up more-affordable goodies like lighting, books, and accessories. SHOP Spitalfields Market 103-117 Commercial St., at Lamb & Brushfield Sts. 20/7247-8556 This historic, wrought-iron market building is bustling again after falling into disrepair in the 1980s. These days, the stalls are individually owned and heavy on crafts--dyed sheepskin rugs, handmade clothes, and lashings of aromatherapy-inflected home products. General market Mon.--Fri. and Sun., 10 a.m.--5 p.m.; fashion and art markets Fri., 10 a.m.--4 p.m. PLAY Fabric 77a Charterhouse St., 20/7336-8898, fabriclondon.com Onetime meat cellar turned superclub, a mecca for dance music snobs: Its three separate spaces are inventively programmed. Nostalgic types should head for the warehouse-like space that resembles a late-1980s rave. Fri. and Sat. only.