London: Marylebone

SEE Tate Modern Bankside in Southwark, near the Millennium Bridge 20/7401-5120 tate.org.uk/modernMuseum in a converted power station was an instant hit on opening five years ago. It houses the Tate Gallery's collection of contemporary art, arranged by theme, and its always-excellent temporary exhibits. The vast hall at its center is used for show-stopping, space-specific single installations. Open Sun.--Thurs., 10 a.m.--6 p.m.; Fri. and Sat., 10 a.m.--10 p.m. Free. SEE The Saatchi Gallery County Hall, Belvedere Rd., 20/7823-2363 saatchi-gallery.co.ukAdman-turned-art collector Charles Saatchi championed the rebellious YBAs (Young British Artists), including Damien Hirst and Tracey Emin, in the early 1990s, and has now opened a public space to showcase his holdings. The traditional, wood-paneled rooms are a strong contrast to the conceptual, offbeat art. Open Sun.--Thurs., 10 a.m.--8 p.m.; Fri. and Sat., 10 a.m.--10 p.m. Admission: £8.75. SEE British Airways London Eye Riverside Building, next to County Hall 870/500-0600 ba-londoneye.comFor the best views of London, book a 30-minute flight in one of the pods that slowly trundle around this 450-foot-tall Ferris wheel. To check for times and minimize the wait in line, buy a ticket in advance at londoneye.com. Hours vary throughout the year. Closed in Jan. and on Christmas Day. Admission: £12.50. EAT Anchor & Hope 36 The Cut, 20/7928-9898 Waterfront gastropub serving traditional British ales and a list of affordable wines and sherries alongside inventive, unusual dishes such as preserved rabbit. Desserts are a high point; try the creamy rhubarb pudding. Open for lunch and dinner Tues.--Sat., dinner only Mon., and closed Sun. SPLURGE Le Pont de la Tour 36d Shad Thames, Butler's Wharf, 20/7403-8403, conran.comClassic Terence Conran megaplex-- with a bakery, food shop, and bar and grill-- though the best part is the summertime outdoor seating, which has an unbeatable view of Tower Bridge. Warning: The game-heavy menu is expensive, but it's worth every penny. SPLURGE Oxo Tower Restaurant, Bar and Brasserie Eighth Fl., Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House St. 20/7803-3888, harveynichols.comLoud and brash, but the views from this elevated eatery can't be beat, especially from the terrace. The modern European food is pricey but tasty, so limit yourself to a glass of wine at the bar if you're on a tight budget. DRINK Baltic 74 Blackfriars Rd., 20/7928-1111The food at this eastern European eatery is so-so, but most people come for the astonishingly wide selection of homemade vodkas-- try them either in cocktails, or better, as shots. It's especially lively late at night, when the restaurant empties out, the bar fills up, and the music pumps. DRINK Royal Oak 44 Tabard St., 20/7357-7173A 19th-century alehouse that boasts vintage fixtures, classic Sussex ales, and what looks like a few of its original clients, too. SHOP Oxo Tower Wharf Barge House St., 20/7401-2255, oxotower.co.uk Beneath the restaurant (see listing below), you'll find a sprawling complex of shoebox-size studios and retail spaces offering ceramics and handmade textiles, all beautifully chic and understated. There's an art gallery on the ground floor. PLAY National Theatre South Bank next to the Waterloo Bridge The Cut, 20/7452-3400, nationaltheatre.org.ukSure, the building is monstrously ugly-- a relic of 1970s urban planning-- but the programming more than makes up for it: Instead of the jukebox musicals taking over the West End, the three auditoriums are a rotating selection of plays, both classics and premieres. (The latest hit was an adaptation of Philip Pullman's His Dark Materials trilogy.) Ticket prices from £10. Come summer, the central concrete piazza is used for free performances every night but Sunday. PLAY Old Vic Theatre Waterloo Rd., 870/060-6628, oldvictheatre.comKevin Spacey has brought cachet and Hollywood glamour to the Old Vic during his tenure as artistic director-- pity the productions have been so hit-and-miss. Even so, it's worth checking out his latest offering, as it's guaranteed to feature prestigious screen names slumming it on the stage. Ticket prices from £10. ESCAPE Brighton 906/711-2255 (toll number), visitbrighton.comThere are plenty of reasons to spend a day on England's south coast-- only an hour or so by train from Victoria Station. For one thing, the shopping in Brighton-- the best outside London-- is mostly independent boutiques crammed into the network of cobbled alleys known as The Lanes. Another draw is the impressive Regency folly known as the Royal Pavilion, with its bizarre Eastern-influenced architecture. And lastly, crowds flock to Brighton for the town's nightlife: Clubs are often cooler than in London, and usually feature fierce up-and-coming bands and DJs.

SEE Geffrye Museum 136 Kingsland Rd., 20/7739-9893, geffrye-museum.org.ukOne of London's hidden gems, the Geffrye was set up just before WWI as a museum of interior design to train craftsmen working in London's furniture industry nearby. Now it's a greatest hits of decorating, showcasing period rooms from the 1600s to the present day--there's even a minimalist '90s loft. Tues.--Sat., 10 a.m.--5 p.m.; Sun., noon--5 p.m. Free. SEE Hoxton The unofficial headquarters of the artsy Cool Britannia movement, thanks to the White Cube gallery and a raft of artists such as Rachel Whiteread snapping up studio space. Spend an afternoon browsing the dozens of independent galleries along Charlotte Road, then grab a drink at one of the restaurants that rim the square. SEE St. John's Gate St. John's Ln. at Clerkenwell Rd., 20/7324-4073, sja.org.uk Medieval priory once home to the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, better known as the Knights Hospitallers, who defended the Holy Land. All that's left is this stone gate at the southern edge, which houses an intriguing museum of Middle Ages ephemera describing the history of the voluntary first-aid organization the St. John Ambulance. Mon.--Fri., 10 a.m.--5 p.m.; Sat., 10 a.m.--4 p.m. Free. EAT St. John Restaurant 26 St. John St., 20/7251-0848, stjohnrestaurant.comA pioneer in reviving the derelict neighborhood of Smithfield, St. John's whitewashed walls and rugged wooden fixtures are a nod to its past as a smokehouse. Nowadays, expect to eat a hearty selection of all-English cuisine: plenty of offal (spleen, brains, and liver are staples), plus long-neglected desserts like Eccles currant-filled puffed pastries. Closed Sun. EAT Smiths of Smithfield 66-77 Charterhouse St., 20/7251-7950, smithsofsmithfield.co.uk Warehouse-style, four-floor eating megaplex serving traditional British grub: snacks and beer on the first floor, champagne and cocktails on the second. There's a brasserie on the third floor, and a swanky, pricey restaurant at the top. Brasserie and champagne bar closed Sun. DRINK Cargo 83 Rivington St., 20/7739-3440, cargo-london.com Hip Shoreditch hybrid bar/club/restaurant: late-night live acts are reliable and eclectic, while both food and drink are Latin-inflected street snacks like tangy quesadillas and freshly made caipirinhas. DRINK Loungelover 1 Whitby St., 20/7012-1234, loungelover.co.uk Campy, over-the-top lounge, decked out like the love child of a pawn shop and a brothel, with red velvet drapes, mismatched stools, and huge chandeliers. Allow time to browse the 16-page cocktail list; if in doubt, try the Mrs. Robinson (Cognac and Drambuie). Closed Sun. DRINK Match EC1 45-47 Clerkenwell Rd., 20/7250-4002, matchbar.com Sleek steel bi-level cocktail bar that's buzziest in the early evening with the after-work crowd. Order a Dark and Stormy or a classic martini--cocktail king Dale de Groff was behind the drink list. Closed Sun. SHOP Family Tree 53 Exmouth Mkt., 20/7278-1084, familytreeshop.co.uk Artsy and eclectic boutique: The owners and their friends make much of the wares, which includes sleek jewelry, hand-screened T-shirts, and handmade purses. Closed Sun. SHOP Microzine 66-67 Colebrooke Row, Islington, 20/7704-6667, microzine.co.uk Take a short Tube ride north into Islington to find what's likely the hottest store in London: the men's megastore known as Microzine. It's a hybrid boutique and magazine: Its stock changes every month like a new issue, and everything is for sale, even the fixtures. Open Mon.--Fri., 11 a.m.--6 p.m.; Sat., 10 a.m.--7 p.m.; Sun., noon--6 p.m. SHOP SCP 135-139 Curtain Rd., 20/7739-1869, scp.co.uk A contemporary furniture showroom that commissions big names such as Michael Sodeau but also stocks products by local artisans working in the Hoxton studios. Stop by to browse for big items, or pick up more-affordable goodies like lighting, books, and accessories. SHOP Spitalfields Market 103-117 Commercial St., at Lamb & Brushfield Sts. 20/7247-8556 This historic, wrought-iron market building is bustling again after falling into disrepair in the 1980s. These days, the stalls are individually owned and heavy on crafts--dyed sheepskin rugs, handmade clothes, and lashings of aromatherapy-inflected home products. General market Mon.--Fri. and Sun., 10 a.m.--5 p.m.; fashion and art markets Fri., 10 a.m.--4 p.m. PLAY Fabric 77a Charterhouse St., 20/7336-8898, fabriclondon.com Onetime meat cellar turned superclub, a mecca for dance music snobs: Its three separate spaces are inventively programmed. Nostalgic types should head for the warehouse-like space that resembles a late-1980s rave. Fri. and Sat. only.

SEE Carnaby Street The trendy center of Swinging London in the 1960s, thanks to a raft of funky boutiques. After falling from favor--by the 1980s, the boutiques were mostly replaced with tacky souvenir stalls--it's enjoyed a recent revival. There's now a new crop of interesting, offbeat clothing stores that are both browsable and affordable, especially near Foubert's Place. SEE Leicester Square This hub of London's entertainment district is lined with cinemas--including the massive UCI Empire and Odeon outposts--and has a handy half-price theater ticket outlet (a squat stone booth on the south side of the square). The once-tawdry green space at the center of the square was spiffed up in the 1990s. SEE Gerrard Street Wander down Gerrard Street for the sights and smells of London's bustling Chinatown. Sure, it's a little artificial--especially the cutesy temple-style phone booths and garish red gateways at either end--but the largely Cantonese restaurants are always packed. EAT Andrew Edmunds 46 Lexington St., 20/7437-5708 A romantic hideaway amid the bustle, this ramshackle eclectic eatery's a low-key place for star-spotting because of the dozens of film companies headquartered nearby. EAT Bar Italia 22 Frith St., 20/7437-4520, baritaliasoho.co.uk Since the 1950s, this 24-hour café has been pulling espressos for locals and tourists alike. Stop here for some chocolate cake and a frothy cappuccino at 2 a.m. EAT Busaba Eathai 106-110 Wardour St., 20/7255-8686 A burgeoning Thai chainlet that's a smart budget stop in the center of town. Designed like a canteen--expect to share a table--the decor is all dark afromosia wood set off by paper lamp shades. SPLURGE Sketch 9 Conduit St., 870/777-4488 A white-hot, all-white restaurant that's gained notoriety for wallet-busting prices as well as an experimental menu, overseen by Michelin-superstar Pierre Gagnaire--think chocolate cake with black pepper ice cream. But its appeal doesn't end with the food--at 11 p.m., tables are cleared in the informal Gallery area so that guests can dance. Don't miss the sparkling, Swarovski-sponsored bathrooms, inspired by jewelry boxes. DRINK Floridita 100 Wardour St., 20/7314-4000, floriditalondon.com New Cuban-style restaurant and bar based on Hemingway's favorite hangout in Havana: Order a mojito to banish a bout of London's standard summer-rain or winter blues. DRINK Milk & Honey 61 Poland St., 20/7292-9949, mlkhny.com Old-school cocktails mixed to perfection in a dimly lit, speakeasy-style space: You have to ring ahead to make a reservation; press the buzzer on the unmarked door for entry. Closed Sun. SHOP Concrete 35a Marshall St., 20/7434-4546, concretelondon.com One of the hottest, hipper-than-thou concept stores in London, decked out like a louche living room, and stocking many a rising name in fashion and homewares. Closed Sun. SHOP Foyles 113-119 Charing Cross Rd., 20/7437-5660, foyles.co.uk In the heart of booksellers' row in London, Foyles is one of the largest independent booksellers in the world. Thanks to a recent overhaul, it's now a joy to browse. PLAY Prince Charles Cinema 7 Leicester Pl., 20/7494-3654, princecharlescinema.com Bargain cinema that shows first-run movies at a few months' lag--and at a significant savings (£3 to £10 a film). There's also a long-running rep season with arty classics, foreign films, and campy favorites. ESCAPE Cambridge 906/586-2526 (toll number), visitcambridge.org Hop on the train at Liverpool Street Station in London, and it's barely an hour's ride to the historic city of Cambridge. It's a much better option than Oxford, whose ancient buildings and collegiate vibe are overrun by the huge town surrounding it. Since Cambridge is much smaller, you'll gain a better sense of the university's history and hallowed halls. The enormous chapel attached to King's College is a world-famous Gothic masterpiece, while the smaller chapel at Pembroke College is a little-known work by Sir Christopher Wren, the designer of St. Paul's Cathedral. Using the "loo" Many public restrooms enforce a pay-to-use policy--either with attendants or coin-operated stall doors. Have at least 20p (pence) at all times to avoid unfortunate accidents.

BAYSWATER Vancouver Studios 30 Prince's Sq., 20/7243-1270, vancouverstudios.co.uk The large but simple rooms are self-contained apartments, with full kitchens and antique-style decor, but the real draw is the secluded, leafy garden out back--a fountain-filled oasis away from the bustle of the streets nearby. Friendly staff, doubles from £90. BLOOMSBURY Harlingford Hotel 61-63 Cartwright Gardens, 20/7387-1551, harlingfordhotel.comRecently spruced-up budget hotel with a vaguely heraldic vibe (and even a roaring fire in the lounge). Bedrooms are smart but small, while the snazzy bathrooms boast brand-new, hyper-designed fixtures. Breakfast includes a full English fry-up. Doubles from £99. BLOOMSBURY The Jenkins Hotel 45 Cartwright Gardens, 20/7387-2067, jenkinshotel.demon.co.uk Comfy, traditional B&B in a Georgian town house with a low-key, friendly vibe; large, if overly floral bedrooms; and an affable owner who'll happily help with tips on London. Doubles from £85. CLERKENWELL The Zetter Restaurant & Rooms 86-88 Clerkenwell Rd., 20/7324-4444, thezetter.com London's trendiest hotel du jour, the Zetter was fashioned from a disused warehouse, so think minimalist, industrial chic in the smallish rooms. But it's smart touches, like vending machines dispensing gin and tonics in the corridors, that really count. Rooms from £158. EARL'S COURT Rushmore Hotel 11 Trebovir Rd., 20/7370-3839, rushmore-hotel.co.ukGorgeous, gloriously over the top, and like the boudoir of an Italian princess: Walls are covered with trompe l'oeil paintings, while beds are festooned with heavy drapes. Great fun and great value. Doubles from £79. HYDE PARK Pavilion Hotel 34-36 Sussex Gardens, 20/7262-0905, pavilionhoteluk.comRelease your inner rock star at this kitschy hotel. Rooms have different names and themes--try the Honky Tonk Afro (disco ball, heart-shaped headboards) or the Highland Fling (tartan, tartan, and more tartan). Doubles from £100. MARYLEBONE Sherlock Holmes Hotel 108 Baker St., 20/7486-6161, sherlockholmeshotel.comRooms look like a Savile Row tailor's pied-a-terre: pin-striped sheets, plenty of leather, and a neutral color scheme--Sherlock Holmes would be proud. The snazzy on-site bar is a great place for a drink or two. Doubles from £133. SOUTH BANK The Mad Hatter Hotel 3-7 Stamford St., 20/7401-9222, fullershotels.com This no-fuss, homey spot close to the Tate Modern is owned by a brewery and pub chain. Rooms are large, if a little too reliant on chintz. Prices often drop on weekends. Doubles from £95. SOUTH KENSINGTON Hotel 167 167 Old Brompton Rd., 20/7373-0672, hotel167.com Stashed in a Victorian town house, this artsy, offbeat hotel combines modern touches--black-and-white tiling, contemporary art--with ramshackle pine-and-wicker furniture for a Sloaney, boho vibe. Doubles from £99. HOT GOSSIP Forget Us Weekly and People: The real home of celebrity gossip is London. A raft of celeb-tastic weeklies documents the loves, lives, and misbehaviors of every B- and C-list star imaginable. Pick up a copy or two to learn about England's celebrity obsession. Heat is the granddaddy of them all, with a mischievous sense of fun and a witty, ironic take on even the most sacrosanct movie stars--its "Celebrities Uncensored" section spotlights unflattering and revealing paparazzi shots. With page after page of "at home with..." celebrity photo spreads, Hello! and OK! are like valentines to the stars they feature: adoring, uncritical, and soft-focused. Most Brits, though, read them for the unintentionally hilarious interviews. Zoo and Nuts are both aimed at men--an unusual target for celeb weeklies. Soft-core photo shoots and sports coverage are standard fare. As for Closer and Now, they're by far the trashiest options, usually packed with D-list TV stars and reality-show types.