New York: Brooklyn

BRONX SEE Arthur AvenueBordered by Fordham Rd., Third Ave., Southern Blvd., and Tremont Ave., arthuravenuebronx.comThe "Belmont" neighborhood is home to NYC's real Little Italy, and Arthur Ave. is its main street. Check out the covered Retail Market and begin a tasting tour of gelato, cured meats, and other authentic flavors from the Old Country. While you're in the area, skip over to the nearby (and vast) New York Botanical Garden. EAT Mario's2342 Arthur Ave., at 184th St., 718/584-1188For the quintessential Arthur Ave. experience, duck in here for real red sauce dishes from southern Italy. It hasn't changed a lick since the 1950s. PLAY Gotham Girls Roller Derby Skate Key, 220th E. 138 St., gothamgirlsrollerderby.comCheck out NYC's all-female roller league and get ready to rumble. It's fun, vicious entertainment. The she-skaters, with names like Baby Ruthless, fight like pros. Doors open at 7:30 p.m., bouts start at 8:30 p.m. Open-skate after-party. Check the schedule online. $12. QUEENS SEE Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum (Long Island City)9-01 33rd Ave., at Vernon Blvd., 718/204-7088, noguchi.orgA gem of a museum dedicated solely to the Modernist Japanese-American sculptor. Its prolific collection includes landscape projects made with R. Buckminster Fuller, dance sets for Martha Graham, and organic 3-D works in granite and basalt. Contemplate the universe in its enclosed Zen garden. Closed Mon. and Tues. Admission: $5. SEE P.S.1 Contemporary Art Center (Long Island City)22-25 Jackson Ave., at 46th Ave., 718/784.2084, ps1.orgAn under-the-radar MoMA partner that shows a wide range of contemporary art in its galleries, housed in a converted public school. Shows often smack of controversy. It's worth the trip. Open Thurs.-Mon. 12-6 p.m. Suggested admission: $5. EAT Elias's Corner (Astoria)24-02 31 St., at 24th Ave., 718/932-1510Don't wait for a menu at this lively Greek taverna, because you'll never get one. Instead, hop up and take your pick from the glass case full of daily catches (or just ask for the lamb chops). Also order the yogurty tsatsiki and skorthalia (potatoes with garlic) dips, and the tender marinated and grilled octopus. Cash only. DRINK Bohemian Hall & Beer Garden (Astoria)29-19 24th Ave., 718/274-4925, bohemianhall.comA charmingly dusty (and authentic) Czech social club. You don't have to be a member to sample pilsners, such as Staropramen, Czechvar, Kozel, and Radegast. There's no better place than its massive garden for lolling away a summer afternoon. Closed Tues. DRINK Cafe Bar (Astoria)32-90 36th St. at 34th Ave., 718/204-5273 A comfortable, funky lounge with stained-glass windows and a light largely vegetarian menu that's popular with hipsters as well as local Greeks. It pours ouzo drinks at its sidewalk tables in the summer.

SEE Strivers RowW. 138th and 139th Sts., between Powell and Douglass Blvds.Blending Georgian and neo-Italian styles, these two rows of 1890s brownstones became the enclave for Harlem's movers and shakers in the 1920s and '30s. Famed architectural firm McKim, Mead & White built the turn-of-the-century houses from no. 203 to no. 267 on W. 139th St. SEE Studio Museum in Harlem144 W. 125th St., near Seventh Ave., 212/864-4500, studiomuseum.orgShows works, including cutting-edge multimedia installations, by contemporary African and African-American artists. There's a great gift shop. Closed Mon. and Tues. EAT Dinosaur BAR-B-QUE646 W. 131st St., 212/694-1777, dinosaurbarbque.comAt this friendly biker bar-meets-BBQ joint, order the fried green tomatoes, ribs, and "big ass" pork plates; add your own graffiti to the bathroom; and ask to see the impressive smoker in the back. EAT Miss Maude's Spoonbread Too 547 Lenox Ave., between 137th and 138th Sts., 212/690-3100, spoonbreadinc.comFormer fashion model Norma Jean Darden relives her childhood in the South here, churning out family recipes like Uncle CL's Fall-Off-the-Bone Short Ribs, fried chicken, and of course, spoonbread. EAT Panino Sportivo Roma1231 Amsterdam Ave., at W. 120th St., 212/662-2066, paninosportivo.comExpertly grilled Italian sandwiches. There are some 58 on the menu, some are served with peppery arugula, ripe tomatoes, and hot peppers. The "Ronaldo," made with buffalo mozzarella and Parma prosciutto, is a big seller. Soccer fans also love the stylish burgundy and gold eatery for its TVs tuned to European "football" games. DRINK Ding Dong Lounge929 Columbus Ave., 212/663-2600, dingdonglounge.comRelive the rebellious years of the 1970s and '80s at this cool, classed-up punk bar. There's a nightly DJ who spins the Dead Kennedys and other bands from the angry days of yore. DRINK Showman's Cafe375 W. 125th St., near Morningside Ave., 212/864-8941A well-maintained jazz/blues and R&B bar that's been a Harlem fave since 1942. Live music starts at 8:30 p.m. on weekdays and 9:30 p.m. on weekends. There's no cover, but from 8 p.m. on there's a two-drink minimum per person per show. SHOP The Brownstone2032 Fifth Ave., near 125th St., 212/996-7980Women love this beauty salon/café/jewelry store/clothing boutique featuring pieces by dozens of independent clothing designers. It's a terrific example of Harlem's revitalization and second renaissance. SHOP Nubian Heritage/Madawa/Nicholas2037-2033 Fifth Ave., at 125th St., 212/427-8999, nubianheritage.comA friendly spot with all manner of African tchotchkes. SHOP Malcolm Shabazz Harlem Market52 W. 116th St., near Malcolm X Blvd., 212/987-8131You'll feel like a globe-trotter in sub-Saharan Africa as you browse the many traditional crafts, textiles, clothing, and carved woodwork at this covered market. Open seven days a week, from 10 a.m.-8 p.m., and Saturday is "giveaway day." PLAY Amateur Night at the Apollo Theater253 W. 125th St., near Frederick Douglass Blvd. 212/531-5300, apollotheater.comEvery Wednesday at 7.30 p.m., the recently renovated Apollo erupts in jeers and cheers as undiscovered singers belt it out. Ella Fitzgerald and James Brown got their starts here. Who knows who you might hear? Tickets from $18. Call 212/531-5337 for info on its one-hour backstage tours. PLAY Professional African Hair Braiding Center315 W. 125th St., near St. Nicholas Ave., 212/280-7521A popular salon that's always buzzing. Transform yourself into a goddess (or god) with a braid spiral that lasts for weeks; $10 per plait. Cornrows from $30. Cash only.

SEE Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum2 E. 91st St. at Fifth Ave., 212/849-8400, ndm.si.edu The only museum in the U.S. dedicated solely to both historic and contemporary design. Run by the Smithsonian, it's housed in industrialist Andrew Carnegie's handsome 1901 mansion. Curiously, the museum is often overlooked, which makes it blessedly free of crowds. In good weather, the garden is magnificent, so snag a seat on the terrace or a find an outdoor table to call your own. Adults $10, students and seniors $7. Closed Mon. SEE Beard Papa2167 Broadway, 212/799-3770A sleek Japanese pastry shop selling baked cream puffs with rich vanilla custard filling that have been known to cause stampedes. EAT Gumbo Café950 Columbus Ave., 212/222-2378Great New Orleans basics like stuffed muffuletta sandwiches, smoky jambalaya and red beans, and buttery pecan tarts. The gumbo, made from chef/owner Dexter Stewart's family recipe, is the star-it's been savored for decades in the Big Easy. B.Y.O.B. EAT Nougatine1 Central Park West, in the Trump International Hotel & Tower, 212/299-3900, jean-georges.comThe adjacent, more casual café (with outdoor terrace) at acclaimed chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten's self-named restaurant. A three-course $20 prix-fixe lunch is offered on weekdays ($24 for two courses in the formal dining room). The French-Asian menu sings with choices, and the desserts are edible jewels. EAT Sassy's Sliders1530 Third Ave., at E. 86th St., 212/828-6900, sassyssliders.comForget White Castle-these bite-size burgers are much better (i.e., not as greasy but just as flavorful). Available in turkey, beef, and veggie. All go perfectly with the golden hand-cut fries. DRINK The Metropolitan Museum of Art1000 Fifth Ave., 212/535-7710, metmuseum.orgFor a bird's-eye view of Central Park and a surefire way to ratchet up a romance, sip wine on the Cantor Roof Garden (open in warm weather only), or nurse a bottle on the Great Hall Balcony, where you can hear free live chamber music on Fri. and Sat., 5-8:30 p.m. $15 suggested donation. SHOP Dylan's Candy Bar 1011 Third Ave., 646/735-0078, dylanscandybar.comRalph Lauren's daughter, Dylan, sells over 5,000 candies at her super-sized shrine to sugar, located across the street from Bloomies. Custom ice creams, such as "Candy Bar Blast," and an old-fashioned soda fountain with peppermint-stripe stools make visits extra sweet. SHOP Zabar's2245 Broadway, at W. 80 St., 212/787-2000, zabars.comA beloved gourmet-food store known for its Jewish edibles-smoked fish, babkas, and an array of creamy bagel schmears. Go upstairs for some of the city's best bargains on kitchenware. PLAY Sonic Vision Hayden Planetarium, American Museum of Natural History, Central Park West at W. 79th St., 212/769-5200, amnh.orgA regular museum music event, the "digitally animated alternative music show" features songs mixed by Moby and trippy graphics cast on the overhead planetarium screen. $15; Fri. and Sat., 7:30-10:30 p.m. PLAY Rowboats in Central ParkLoeb Boathouse, E. 74th St., 212/517-2233, nycgovparks.orgFrom Mar.-Oct.when the weather permits, families, lovebirds, and groups of friends take to the lake in rowboats to laze and splash around, and spot wildlife. (Over 750 kinds of birds have been seen to date.) $10 for the first hour; $2.50 every 15 minutes thereafter. Note: A $30 cash deposit is required to rent. 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Boats must be returned by 6:30 p.m. PLAY Sit In on a Sotheby's Auction1334 York Ave., sothebys.comFrom Old Masters to the personal collection of Gianni Versace, you never know what might come up for sale. Private treasures are often on display, so sit back and watch the bidding begin. The excitement is contagious. Free Mon.-Fri. during the day. SPLURGE Cabaret at Café Sabarsky 1048 Fifth Ave., 212/288-0665, neuegalerie.orgOne of the best cabarets in the city, and the setting is dreamy-an elegant fin de siècle kaffeehaus on the ground floor of a 1914 mansion, once home to the Vanderbilts, now the Neue Galerie. See performances ranging from traditional German kabarett to contemporary acts, while enjoying buttery apple strudel. Cabaret and dinner from $90. Thursday only. Note: The cabaret goes on hiatus in the summer, but the café and gallery (adults $10, students and seniors $7) are open year-round. Five-Star Street Food   Veggie South Indian crepes from N.Y. Dosas, (W. Fourth and Sullivan Sts., on Washington Square Park)   Wieners with all the fixins at Dawgs on Park, (178 E. Seventh St., South side of Tompkins Square Park)   Burgers and frozen custard at Shake Shack, (Southeast corner of Madison Park)   Red Texas-style chili at Daisy May's BBQ, (on Sixth Ave., across from Radio City Music Hall)   Spicy jerk chicken from Tony Williams' Cart, (W. 42nd St., between Eighth and Ninth Aves.)   Curry creations from Kwik Meal Cart, (Southeast corner of W. 45th St. and Sixth Ave.)   Falafel from Moishe's Cart, (Southeast corner of W. 46th St. and Sixth. Ave.)

SEE Ceiling at Grand Central Terminal42nd St. and Park Ave., grandcentralterminal.comA successful recent renovation project (and serious scrub down) gave this 1913 landmark building with Beaux-Arts facade a much-needed face lift. Now you can actually see the magnificent mural of the October night sky-complete with more than 500 recessed star-lights outlining the zodiac constellations-on the vaulted, pale blue ceiling in the main hall. Inquire at the information booth about free tours. Duck downstairs to the new dining concourse for a bite, or for a seafood-laden lunch at the counter at the historic (but noisy) Grand Central Oyster Bar (212/490-6650). SEE Museum of Modern Art11 W. 53 St., 212/708-9400, moma.orgUpdated in every way, The Modern is now truly modern-more urban, ample, and visitor friendly. Architect Yoshio Taniguchi's vision (and the $425 million renovation) produced a soaring atrium and floor-to-ceiling windows that allow the city in. The ever-expanding art collections, though seemingly exhibited randomly, sing in their new spaces. The sculpture garden is also bigger, and better, than ever. Closed Tuesday. $20, but it's free on Friday evenings from 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. EAT Bread & Olive24 W. 45th St., 212/764-1588, breadandolive.comA cheery, if narrow, Middle Eastern joint serving superb traditional little dishes (hummus, etc.), as well as succulent chicken shawarma, and unusual home-baked Lebanese breads such as keshik, which is sprinkled with dried goat cheese and sesame seeds. EAT Delegates Dining Room at the United NationsE. 46th St., at the East River, 212/963-7625, aramark-un.comReasonably priced, vast international buffet catering to homesick delegates. The patter of foreign tongues, the scenic views of the East River, and the prospect of rubbing elbows with Kofi also make this a great off-beat lunch spot. Mon.-Fri. only. EAT Fluff751 Ninth Ave., 646/289-3025Hostess®-style, but preservative-free, dessert snacks called Fluff Balls and Fluffy Q's-think SnoBalls and Suzy Q's-are the main attraction, but other feel-goodies, such as pressed cheese sandwiches, are also offered. Open late on weekends. EAT Tea Box Cafe at Takashimaya 693 Fifth Ave., 212/350-0179A Japanese teahouse hidden in the basement of this famed Tokyo department store is a perfect place to rest weary feet. It serves over 40 kinds of tea; sample one with a generous bento-box lunch, or try the finger sandwiches and cookies. EAT New York Water Taxi212/742-1969, newyorkwatertaxi.comA double-decker, high-speed catamaran that makes 10 stops in Manhattan, Brooklyn, and Queens, including Chelsea Piers, Christopher St., and South St. Seaport. $5 for single rides, $20 for two-day hop-on/hop-off ticket. Hoofing it in NYC It takes the average person one minute to walk one "short" (north-south) block, and two minutes to walk one "long block" (east-west) in Manhattan. Do the math. EAT Tony Luke's Old Style Philly Cheese Steak Sandwiches576 Ninth Ave., 212/967-3055, tonylukesnyc.comThe real deal from the City of Brotherly Love. One bite of the authentic Cheez Whiz-laced steak sandwich, and you'll swoon. Other Philly faves, like the roast pork and broccoli rabe sandwich, are just as good. DRINK Campbell Apartment15 Vanderbilt Ave., inside Grand Central off the SW balcony at 43rd St., 212/953-0409, hospitalityholidays.comWalled off for decades, this former opulent office of tycoon John W. Campbell has been restored to its earlier baronial splendor-an immaculate replica of a 13th-century Florentine palace room. It's terribly civilized, and drinks aren't as expensive as you might think. Helpful hints: Avoid the after-work crowd, and don't wear sneakers-the hostess won't let you in if you do! DRINK Jimmy's Corner140 W. 44th St., 212/221-9510Midtown's best dive bar is a knockout winner of a watering hole-boxer motif, rockin' jukebox, and all. SHOP Diamond DistrictW. 47th St., between Fifth and Sixth Aves., diamonddistrict.orgOn this busy block you can save thousands of dollars on engagement and diamond right-hand rings, and other sparkly baubles. Some 2,600 diamond businesses populate the district, most of which have booths in the 25 jewelry "exchanges." One respectable name is Allure Diamond, Inc. (1 W. 47th St., 212/575-1885). Visit the website for other vendors that abide by the Jewelry Buyer's Bill of Rights. Do research before you go. Sometimes there are bigger discounts if you pay in cash. PLAY Clearview's Ziegfeld Theater141 W. 54th St., 212/777-3456 #602Gotham's last remaining grand movie palace. The massive art deco style theater has 1,162 velvet-covered seats, gilded molding, and an old-fashioned balcony. There's no better spot to take in a blockbuster. For more classic cinematic fun, check out the free outdoor film series at Bryant Park, running Mon. nights at sunset throughout the summer. PLAY Playwrights Horizons416 W. 42nd St., 212/564-1234, playwrightshorizons.orgA writer's theater with a special emphasis on new works from contemporary American playwrights. Don't expect elaborate costuming or theme songs by Elton John: here, it's all about good stories and vibrant, haunting characters. The likes of Morgan Freeman, Dianne Wiest, and Kevin Spacey have graced the stage since its opening in 1971.