Outdoor Vacations for Families

It seemed like a fairly easy trip to plan. Debbie Escobar, of Visalia, Calif., hoped to bring her sons Evan, 11, and Andrew, 10, to Washington, D.C., for sightseeing and history lessons. The boys--both involved in Scouting, with their father, Anthony, as troop leader--could see the Capitol Building and fulfill part of a merit badge in their quest to become Eagle Scouts. Any state capitol or federal building would have sufficed for the merit badge, but Debbie thought this was a great excuse to visit D.C. "We've traveled a lot, but never to that part of the country," said Debbie. "We especially want our boys to see up close what they're studying in school." Since they'd already be on the East Coast learning about history, Debbie thought, why not check out Philadelphia too? (New York City and Boston seemed to warrant separate vacations.) The problem was that after two years with the trip in the back of her mind, Debbie still hadn't nailed down the details. Figuring out when to go was a challenge in itself, what with busy work schedules for both parents, family engagements, school field trips, soccer tournaments, and Scouting. Debbie and the boys had a window of time in May. (Anthony was too busy, so it would just be Mom and the kids.) Evan and Andrew would miss school, but heck, they'd get a great education on the trip and they could catch up with their classes when they returned. "We want to do this trip, but the time is quickly approaching and I'm not totally sure we can get it together," Debbie said. "I usually love planning trips, but this one has me stumped." We were more than happy to help. They would be flying out of Fresno, and our first step was to price flights on Orbitz. (We also checked with Southwest Airlines and JetBlue, which aren't listed on Orbitz, but neither flies to Fresno or nearby.) For the dates the Escobars needed, America West Airlines had the best rates (800/235-9292, americawest.com/). Flying into D.C. and out of Philly made the most sense. It's a bit more expensive than a standard round trip in and out of the same city ($427 versus $411), but they'll save the time and money of retracing their steps. And we advised them to book directly through America West, rather than pay a $5-per-ticket surcharge to Orbitz. How to travel from D.C. to Philly was an easy call. This is one of the few areas where it's affordable and convenient to use Amtrak: $90 total for the three of them on the two-hour ride (800/872-7245, amtrak.com/). The major sights in both cities are accessible by foot and public transportation, and they won't have to worry about parking and traffic. Hotel location was important, especially with no car. "We'd like someplace safe and clean," said Debbie. "Budget is definitely a consideration." We directed them to the Hotel Harrington, which sits a few blocks from the White House and the Mall and charges $105 a night for rooms with two double beds. In Philadelphia, we suggested the Comfort Inn Downtown. Within a 10-minute walk of the city's most historic sights, it's a fine value at $89 a night. We recommended that on the travel day from D.C., they should check out late from the Harrington and take an early-afternoon train--that way, they can check right into the Comfort Inn. (If they leave D.C. earlier, they might have to wait a while before check-in is allowed.) To cut down on any complaining, we suggested that the boys go to each city's visitor website (washington.org/ and gophila.com/) and pick out a few things to see and do. In D.C., they might want to check out artifacts from the Apollo expeditions to the moon at the National Air and Space Museum. Or Evan and Andrew may be drawn to the International Spy Museum, which has dozens of hidden cameras and sneaky weapons on display. There will still be plenty of time for the things everyone has to see, such as the Capitol Building, the Supreme Court, and the Washington, Jefferson, and Lincoln Memorials. The Philadelphia site has a link to theconstitutional.com/, where the boys will want to download a free walking tour of what is probably the most historic square mile in the U.S. The sights include the National Constitution Center, where they can trace the history of the document from Revolutionary to present times in kid-friendly, multimedia exhibits; the Liberty Bell Center; and Independence Hall, where the Declaration of Independence was signed. The Franklin Institute Science Museum, near Logan Circle, is cool and educational, loaded with interactive exhibits that let kids earn their wings at pilot-training stations and test their balance on a surfboard simulator. Finally, the boys might want to swing by the Philadelphia Museum of Art--if not for the Manet exhibition (through May 31), then for the chance to run up the steps like Sylvester Stallone in Rocky. Washington D.C. & Philadelphia Lodging Hotel Harrington 436 11th St. NW, D.C., 800/424-8532, hotelharrington.com Comfort Inn 100 N. Christopher Columbus Blvd., Phila., 215/627-7900, comfortinn.com/ Attractions National Air and Space Museum Independence Ave. at 4th St. SW, D.C., 202/357-2700, nasm.si.edu/, free International Spy Museum 800 F St. NW, D.C., 866/779-6873, spymuseum.org, $10-$13 National Constitution Center 525 Arch St., Phila., 215/409-6600, constitutioncenter.org, $5-$6 Independence Hall and Liberty Bell Center 143 S. 3rd St., Phila., nps.gov/inde, 215/597-8974, free Franklin Institute 222 N. 20th St., Phila., 215/448-1200, fi.edu, $10-$12.75 Philadelphia Museum of Art 26th St. and Benjamin Franklin Pkwy., 215/763-8100, philamuseum.org, free-$10

Finding a reasonable room near Maine's waterways is challenging; finding one with more than motel-quality character is nearly impossible. But such gems do exist, although some are only open in the summer. Here are our favorites, south to north. Paths lace the landscaped grounds of St. Anthony's Monastery, in Kennebunk, meandering through woodlands, gardens, and outdoor chapels along the town's river. Visitors to its Franciscan Guest House, founded by monks who fled war-torn Lithuania in 1947, enjoy away-from-it-all serenity, yet are within walking distance of bustling Dock Square and the beach. Rooms, all with private baths, are spread out among five buildings, including Tudor-style homes and a former dorm, and share use of the saltwater pool. Although there's no daily maid service, fresh towels are provided. Family-run since 1932, Maine Idyll Motor Court is actually three miles west of the coast, but it's also three miles north of Freeport (and L.L. Bean's mother ship). That location, and its low prices, make it a good base. These tidy one-to-three-bedroom, white-clapboard cabins have pine interiors accented by a hint of wood smoke, and many have fireplaces and kitchenettes. They're holdovers from the days when such colonies dotted America's highways. Originally built as a lifesaving station in 1883, the beachfront Popham Beach Bed and Breakfast, at the mouth of the Kennebunk River in Phippsburg, later housed the Coast Guard until it was decommissioned in 1971. A bit pricier than its competition, it's worth the splurge to fall asleep to the rhythmic lapping of waves, wake up with a walk on the six-mile-long sands, or climb the inn's tower for views to the Seguin Island beacon. Start the day with a dip at the waterfront Mill Pond Inn, a restored 1780 colonial in sleepy Damariscotta Mills. The village, which also fronts the 14-mile-long Damariscotta Lake, is a good base for towns such as Boothbay Harbor, Rockland, and Camden, or the galleries and antiques shops of the adjacent Pemaquid Peninsula. Innkeeper Bobby Whear is licensed with the state as a professional guide and offers fishing trips and scenic tours in his restored lapstrake boat. Damariscotta sits at the peninsula's northern end, but Pemaquid Point Lighthouse, depicted on the Maine quarter and in countless cal-endars, anchors the southern tip. Although it lacks a view, the Hotel Pemaquid is less than 200 yards away (close enough that the foghorn can lose its romantic appeal). Antiques fill the lobby and small guest rooms in the Victorian main hotel, and they accent the more spacious rentals in the adjacent cottages and motel. Pemaquid Beach, Fort William Henry, and lobster shacks (where a feast of a one-pound lobster and a bag of steamers starts at $12) are nearby. With its white-iron bedsteads, vintage dressers, and gauzy curtains, the Ocean House, in tiny Port Clyde, evokes the essence of a Maine summer hotel. Most rooms have views of the picturesque harbor. Stroll to the early mail boat for Monhegan Island and take a day trip or, with a little more effort, walk over to the Marshall Point Lighthouse. The huge deck of the Inn on the Harbor, in Stonington, juts over the sea, providing a perfect spot to watch lobstermen, the Isle au Haut mail boat, and occasional windjammers. Rooms, some with fireplaces or private decks, are spread among four Victorian buildings that retain facades as unadorned as Stonington itself. Spring for a harbor-facing room; those on the street can be noisy. The jaw-dropping vista down Somes Sound, the only fjord on America's east coast, is the calling card of The Moorings Inn, in yacht-packed Southwest Harbor. This pretty village on the quiet side of Mount Desert Island is about 20 minutes southwest of Bar Harbor and the start of Acadia National Park's famed Park Loop. Inn rooms are comfortably cluttered with antiques; motel rooms have decks; and the cottages, which cost $10 to $45 more, have fireplaces, kitch-ens, and the most privacy. Oceanside Meadows Inn, in Prospect Harbor, includes a former sea captain's home and sits on 200 acres of beach, woods, and marsh. From late June until late September the enthusiastic innkeepers also book concerts (classical to jazz) and environmental lectures in a renovated barn. Their elegant breakfast emphasizes organic ingredients, many from the inn's gardens. Acadia National Park is nearby, as is a passenger ferry to Bar Harbor. Well north of the beaten path in rural Maine is the 110-acre riverfront Pleasant Bay Bed and Breakfast and Llama Keep, in Addison. Light-filled rooms flow from one into another at the Cape-style inn. From your window, you can watch the river ebb and flow with the tide. The owners raise llamas and red deer--so you might help feed the herds or even stroll the two miles of paths by Pleasant Bay with only a llama for company. Maine hotels Lodging Franciscan Guest House 28 Beach Ave., Kennebunk, 207/967-4865, from $80 Maine Idyll Motor Court 1411 U.S. Route 1, Freeport, 207/865-4201, freeportusa.com, from $55 Popham Beach Bed and Breakfast 4 Riverview Ave., Popham Beach, Phipps-burg, 207/389-2409, pophambeachbandb.com, from $105 Mill Pond Inn 50 Main St., Damariscotta Mills, 207/563-8014, millpondinn.com, $120 Hotel Pemaquid 3098 Bristol Rd., New Harbor, 207/677-2312, hotelpemaquid.com, from $65 Ocean House Rte. 131, Port Clyde, 800/269-6691, oceanhousehotel.com/, from $75 Inn on the Harbor Main St., Stonington, 800/942-2420, innontheharbor.com, from $115 The Moorings Inn Southwest Harbor, Mount Desert Island, 800/596-5523, mooringsinn.com, from $80 Oceanside Meadows Inn Rte. 195, Prospect Harbor, 207/963-5557, oceaninn.com, from $128 Pleasant Bay Bed and Breakfast 386 West Side Rd., Addison, 207/483-4490, pleasantbay.com, from $50

Los Angeles may be the TV and film capital of the world, but it's also home to many legendary moments in rock and roll. Clubs like the Whiskey, The Troubadour and others have been important launching pads for many artists, including Elton John, the Eagles and Van Halen, to name a few. But beyond the most famous sites are some lesser-known locations that have figured prominently, for better and worse, in the colorful history of rock and roll. Opening Doors The Doors remain perhaps L.A.'s most famous home-grown band. Though he died in Paris, lead singer Jim Morrison's legacy is alive and well around town, both in spirit and in some notable landmarks. Fans of the brooding poet/rock Adonis will want to start their journey at the Alta Cienega Motel, located 1005 N. La Cienega Avenue. Morrison lived here from 1968-1970, as the sign on room 32 attests. Inside the room, dedicated fans from all over the planet have written loving messages upon the wall. Just across the street at 8512 Santa Monica Boulevard is a building which once housed The Doors' offices and recording studios. It's now the Benvenuto Café, and the men's room on the lower floor actually served as the vocal booth where Morrison recorded the classic song, "L.A. Woman." Incidentally, Morrison used to hang out at nearby Barney's Beanery, located at 8447 Santa Monica Boulevard. It's a classic L.A. hangout even today, but back on Oct 4, 1970, Janis Joplin sat at her favorite booth, #34, and downed two screwdrivers before heading up to the Landmark Hotel. She would die there later that evening. Just for the Record(s) Hollywood has also been home to some of the most famous recording sessions in rock and roll history. At Radio Recorders (now Explosive Records) located at 7000 Santa Monica Boulevard, it would have been common to see Elvis roll up in the 1950's. After all, it was here that he recorded Jailhouse Rock, All Shook Up, Loving You and Teddy Bear (among others.) Gold Star Recording Studios (formerly located at 6252 Santa Monica Boulevard) is where legendary producer Phil Spector created his famous "Wall of Sound" approach to recording: the dense, layered, echo-filled sound that surrounded songs like "He's a Rebel," "Be My Baby," "Baby, I Love You," and "You've Lost That Loving Feeling" among others. It's also where Brian Wilson created Pet Sounds, the critically-acclaimed 1967 Beach Boys album that supposedly pushed the Beatles to up the ante with Sergeant Pepper¹s Lonely Hearts Club Band. The studio was razed in the mid 1980s to make room for the mini-mall that's there now. Sunset Sound, located at 6650 Sunset Boulevard has also hosted some legendary sessions. Led Zeppelin recorded their second and fourth albums here, the latter of which included "Stairway to Heaven." The Rolling Stones cut Beggars Banquet here, and other famous recordings include James Taylor's "Fire and Rain," Janis Joplin's "Me and Bobby McGee," and Michael Jackson's "Beat It." Let's spend the night together Hotels always seem to play an important part in rock and roll, and Hollywood is no different. If only the walls at The Hyatt on Sunset (8401 Sunset Boulevard) could talk. When British bands first invaded this hotel in the 1960s, it was simply known as the Continental Hyatt House. Before long, it became known as "Riot House," thanks in part to Led Zeppelin racing Harleys down the hallways, among other more sordid endeavors. Room 1015 bares the distinction of being where Rolling Stone guitarist Keith Richards mooned the world and dropped a TV out the window. Further down the Strip at the Le Mondrian Hotel (8440 Sunset Boulevard) is where one of the lead "singers" for the pop duo Milli Vanilli tried to kill himself in 1991. Rob Pilatus took an overdose of pills, slashed his wrists, and tried to jump out of the ninth-floor window of this hotel before the police finally stopped him. (On Apr 3, 1998, Pilatus was found dead of an apparent overdose in a Frankfurt, Germany hotel room.) "Say goodbye to Hollywood" Just north of Sunset Strip is a street immortalized by the late George Harrison. It's called Blue Jay Way and in Aug 1, 1967, George Harrison was staying at a house on this street. It was here that he wrote the song "Blue Jay Way" while waiting for Beatles PR flack Derek Taylor to arrive at the house, and the song eventually was recorded by the Beatles for the Magical Mystery Tour film and soundtrack record. It's a little tricky to find Blue Jay Way, so here are the directions: Turn north on Sunset Plaza Drive off Sunset Boulevard. Head north to Rising Glen when Sunset Plaza goes east. Go left on Thrasher, follow it around west, then turn north on Blue Jay Way. Back down on Sunset is the Sunset Grill, located at 7439 Sunset Blvd. The small hamburger counter was the subject of Don Henley's "Sunset Grill" from his Building the Perfect Beast album. When the tune came out, the Sunset Grill's owner, Joe Frolich, had no idea he and his establishment had been immortalized in song. After customers started telling him that he and his restaurant were being sung about by the ex-Eagle, Joe¹s wife, Eva, finally recognized Henley at the Grill one day. And if you like the handprints at Mann's Chinese Theater, you'll love the Rock Walk at the Guitar Center at 7425 Sunset Boulevard. Here in front of the store, dozens of famous musicians are immortalized in cement imprints. Lastly in Hollywood, there¹s a wistful spot at the southwest corner of Sunset Boulevard and Crescent Heights. If you remember Joni Mitchell singing "They paved paradise, and put up a parking lot" in the song "Big Yellow Taxi," then take note. It was written about a hotel that used to sit here. The Garden of Allah was Hollywood's famed apartment-hotel that welcomed transient show business guests from 1935-1955. Errol Flynn, Clark Gable, Greta Garbo, W.C. Fields, Humphrey Bogart, F. Scott Fitzgerald, the Marx Brothers, Orson Welles-they all lived here. Mitchell wrote the song about this place, as a supposed metaphor for the destruction of a cultural monument. (And yes, it is a parking lot today, for a bank that's here now.) Heading for the Hills--Beverly Hills When it comes to affordable hotels, Hollywood is the place to go. Here are some of our picks: Where did Elvis first meet the Beatles? At 565 Perugia Way. The original house is gone, but this was is where, on Aug 27, 1965, Elvis Presley paid his initial visit to the Fab Four. The Beatles were in town to play the Hollywood Bowl and it was reported that at this meeting, the Beatles fawned over the King; who remained aloof (rumor has it he didn't care much for their music). And that classic 70's album cover, Hotel California? No, it wasn't a mysterious desert hideaway. It was the legendary Beverly Hills Hotel which truly is "Such a lovely place." Interestingly, to get the shot of the mission bell, a cherry picker was used (making it hard to imagine the angle when you stand in front of the hotel). The inside photo of the band in the hotel "lobby" was actually shot inside the Lido Apartments, located in Hollywood at 6500 Yucca Street. Moving west on Sunset from the Beverly Hills Hotel, you'll soon hit Dead Man's Curve, located at Sunset Boulevard near Whittier Drive. It was here on Apr 12, 1966, that singer Jan Berry (Jan & Dean) had a near-fatal car accident in his Corvette Stingray 427 that left him permanently disabled. However, the exact spot the duo referred to in their famous song, "Dead Man's Curve," was curve slightly west on Sunset Boulevard, near Groverton Place, just north of UCLA. Just off the map Downtown Los Angeles: It was on the rooftop at the corner of 7th Street and Main Street where U2 filmed the chaotic music video for the song "Where the Streets Have No Name" in 1987. The shoot caused a ruckus with the police, all of which was captured in the video. South Los Angeles: At 2101 South Gramercy Place, you'll find the house where legendary soul singer Marvin Gaye was shot to death by his minister father, Marvin Gaye, Sr., during an argument at their home on Apr 1, 1984. The father pleaded guilty to voluntary manslaughter, but received only five years' probation. Marvin Gaye would have been 45 years old the next day. Hawthorne, California: At 11969 Hawthorne Boulevard (just north of 120th Street) you'll find a classic Beach Boys landmark. The band grew up here in Hawthorne, California, and the "hamburger stand" mentioned in their hit song, "Fun, Fun, Fun," was actually this very Foster's Freeze (which they nicknamed "Frostie's"). Evidently Brian Wilson had spotted a friend here driving by in her daddy¹s T-Bird. Los Angeles has seen a lot of music history. These are but a few of the landmarks that make for interesting side trips, especially when you're ready to rock. Chris Epting has created many popular advertising campaigns over the last 20 years. He is also the author of six books including Roadside Baseball and James Dean Died Here, The Location's of America's Pop Culture Landmarks. Marilyn Monroe Dyed Here, More Locations of America's Pop Culture Landmarks comes out this May from Santa Monica Press.

Though budget lodgings are scattered through Marin, Mendocino, and Sonoma counties, they're more heavily clustered and numerous in the area called Russian River Valley. The most cost-conscious of all visitors to the California Wine Country make their base here and then drive each day to the famous Napa, Sonoma, and Mendocino wineries in the spiffier regions. In fact, just a very short drive over the mountains from trendy - and often pricey - Sonoma and Napa Valleys, or a straight one-hour shot up Highway 101 from San Francisco's Golden Gate, the Russian River Valley Wine Country beckons with affordable accommodations, endless vistas of ripening grape vines, and dozens of "secret" wineries - all the ingredients to make an authentic California wine country vacation - without the usual high price tag. Doubles here start as low as $45 a night for a charming rustic cabin in the Guerneville redwoods just minutes from the vines. Visit in low season, December through March, when wineries are still open, and you'll see hotel rates drop to as low as $40 a night. Travel midweek to save an extra $20 year-round, or make your base a short drive south in the suburbs of Santa Rosa, Rohnert Park, or Petaluma where Days Inn (800/325-2525), Budget Inn (707/584-4448), and Ramada Limited (800/272-6232) motels right off the highway offer doubles for as little as $36 a night midweek for walk-ins (advance reservations are slightly more). Healdsburg is the hub Old-fashioned Healdsburg Plaza is the heart of the Russian River region, with cafes, fine (but not expensive) dining, and grocery stores for picnic supplies all right on the town square. Here, you can relax and people-watch while leafing through the free California Visitor Review magazine available at the Healdsburg Chamber of Commerce (217 Healdsburg Ave., 707/433-6935, healdsburg.org) and packed with local maps and discount coupons. Most wine roads-as the country lanes here are called - radiate from Healdsburg, so no matter which way you point your car or bike, you'll be rolling past meadows and old barns within minutes of leaving town. On the way, you'll pass four budget lodging options clustered on Healdsburg's outskirts - dependable alternatives to the smattering of lacy B&B's that fill up months in advance. The spruced-up L & M (19 rooms, 70 Healdsburg Ave., 707/433-6528) and Fairview (18 rooms, 74 Healdsburg Ave., 707/433-5548) motels start at $65 for pleasant doubles in low season, $80 high, and though they're near the highway, they're just blocks from the vines. The newer Best Western Dry Creek Inn (198 Dry Creek Rd., 707/433-0300) offers a few more amenities, such as an exercise room and a complimentary small bottle of house wine. Some of their 102 rooms sell for $69 in low season but run all the way to $165, high. Right next door, the Wine Country TraveLodge's (178 Dry Creek Rd., 707/433-0101; 800/499-0103) 23 guest rooms start from $65 midweek, off-season, to $109 high. Healdsburg's vineyards range from tiny family-run wineries to large compounds built to accommodate (rarely seen) crowds. The best "secret" vineyards are a little harder to get to - but the payoff is in great views, nearly private picnic areas and hard-to-find wines. It is rare to come across a winery that charges for tastings, and you won't have to elbow your way in for space at the bar. Three are my own favorites: First, Alderbrook Winery (2306 Magnolia Dr.; 800/405-5987) with its airy, glass-walled tasting room. Try a few of their ever-changing varietals - ask for a crisp, dry Sauvignon Blanc-to enjoy with your picnic on the deck across from a sweep of vines. Then, tiny Foppiano (12707 Old Redwood Hwy., 707/433-7272), one of the oldest family-owned vineyards, as cozy as your favorite aunt's porch. A unique self-guided tour takes you from the clapboard tasting room right into the vines to learn firsthand about the plants (don't wear white shoes!). Hanna Winery's (9280 Hwy. 128, 800/854-3987) dramatic setting is one of the wine country's prettiest-the dainty building seems to teeter on a hill of vines. Inside, servers pour Merlots and Cabernets to sip on the wraparound porch overlooking a rolling carpet of green. Try Geyserville, too Just up Route 101 from Healdsburg, this tiny town of covered sidewalks is not so much a village as a strip of history set alongside charming Victorian homes, irrigation towers, and acres of grapes. It's known for vineyards and its boutique "sister" B&B's: The Hope-Merrill and Hope-Bosworth Houses, (21253 Geyserville Ave., 800/825-4233 or 707/ 857-3356) which, starting at $119 for two in a fully restored mansion with pool and complete gourmet breakfast, is a splurge, but one that some budget-minded guests think is warranted by extraordinary charm. Otherwise, opt for one of the most unusual (and cheapest) places to stay. Isis Oasis (20889 Geyserville Ave., 707/857-4747) can accommodate large groups who don't mind sharing bathroom facilities, or just two people in their own yurt (a Tibetan tent) on a hill. This compound is legendary for its New Age touches, laid-back surroundings, and 1960's summer camp feel. You can't miss the lilac obelisk off Geyserville Avenue and the colorful Egyptian shrine to the left. Facilities include a pool, hot tub, petting zoo, and an aviary full of exotic pheasants and emus. The dormlike lodge ($75 a night, including hot breakfast and all taxes) is just up the hill from the wood-paneled dining room where a fire blazes on cool days. The very best deals here are reserved for adventurers: the modern yurt, dome, or wine barrel - each a cozy room set on a lawn near the swan pond - starts at $75 a night for two; the teepee and pyramid start at $50). Down the road, drive into historic Trentadue Winery (19170 Geyserville Ave., 707/433-3104) past the "Old Patch" - an acre and a half of dark, thick, 120-year-old vines. Try some of their yield, or sample newer varieties in a tasting room overlooking a large garden, fountains, and vine-covered arbors so pretty they're often used for weddings late on weekend afternoons. Finally, consider Guerneville A convenient base for families and outdoor enthusiasts (Armstrong Redwoods State Park is two miles up the road), this shady riverside town sits halfway between the vineyards and the rugged Sonoma Coast about half an hour's drive west. Vacationers have flocked here from San Francisco since the 1800s, and many vintage cabins still stand. The main street is lined with reasonably priced, family-friendly restaurants and there are plenty of boating, kayaking, and bathing activities to keep little ones entertained. A block off the main drag, the 1920s riverside attached cottages at Johnson's Beach Resort (16241 First St., 707/869-2022) are the Russian River Valley's cheapest lodging option. From April through October, for $35 to $40, two people can share one of ten rustic cabins on stilts. For greater amenities, head across the bridge to Creekside Inn and Resort (16180 Neeley Rd., 800/776-6586) set under the shade of mighty redwoods, and book one of the $63-$85 B&B rooms or a charming, family-friendly cottage, $79-$132 for up to four guests. Some cottages have fireplaces for winter. In summer months, swim at a watersports center just down the road. Riverlane Resort (16320 First St., 707/869-2323) boasts the most convenient location - one block from the town's main street and right on a river beach. Low-season rates start at $40 for the smallest of 13 spacious cottages; larger cabins at $60 can accommodate four. High-season prices jump: $50-$110. Most of the aptly named Fern Grove Cottages' (16650 Hwy. 116, 707/869-8105) 21 basic 1920s cabins are tucked under 200-foot-tall redwoods and have wood-burning fireplaces, original knotty pine interiors, and decks. The $69 rate for a studio, or $129 for a cottage for four, includes continental breakfast. The top attraction hereabouts? That's Korbel Champagne Cellars (13250 River Rd., 707/824-7000) less than five minutes down the road. Generous tastings include more than six kinds of bubbly from Brut and Blanc de Blanc to rare Chardonnay champagne. Beer lovers (and hungry travelers) can hop over to the glassed-in deli for gourmet sandwiches ($5.95, big enough for two), pasta salads ($1.50-$3), and four-ounce ales that cost only $1 a taste. and decks. The $69 rate for a studio, or $129 for a cottage for four, includes continental breakfast. The top attraction hereabouts? That's Korbel Champagne Cellars (13250 River Rd., 707/824-7000) less than five minutes down the road. Generous tastings include more than six kinds of bubbly from Brut and Blanc de Blanc to rare Chardonnay champagne. For further Wine Country information: contact Sonoma County Tourism Program, 520 Mendocino Ave., Suite 210, Santa Rosa 95401, 707/565-5383, sonomacounty.com...Mendocino County Promotional Alliance, 525 S. Main St., Suite E, Ukiah 95482, 707/462-7417, mcpa@saber.net; mendocinoalliance.com...Marin County Convention & Visitors Bureau, 1013 Larkspur Landing Circle, Larkspur 94939, 415/499-3252, marincvb@marin.org; visitmarin.org. And remember that everywhere during the off-season (typically after Labor Day or from October through April), rates drop by about a third. For the best chance of additional savings the rest of the year, always inquire at the visitor bureaus or local chambers of commerce to see what special rates may be posted there.