Secret Hotels of Amsterdam

By A. Christine Maxfield
October 17, 2012
Change takes time in the city of wooden shoes. In September, the Stedelijk Museum of modern art reopened after years of renovations. Next, the city will spend a decade converting the Red Light District into a dining and shopping zone. Looking to drop in on the makeover? We’ve got just the places.

On April 13, Amsterdam's Rijksmuseum will open its doors after a 10-year, nearly $500 million renovation. The 1885 structure has been restored to its 19th-century glory, with the added advantage of contemporary lighting and design that will literally put works by Rembrandt, Vermeer, and other Dutch Masters in an ideal light. Ready to head for the city of canals, wooden shoes, and amazing paintings? Budget Travel has rounded up some masterpieces of our own—four affordable hotels!

Hotel The Exchange
Binnenstad
Take seniors and recent graduates from the Amsterdam Fashion Institute, challenge them to "dress a room like a model on the catwalk," then set them loose. That's what the owners of Hotel The Exchange did before opening last December, and the results are as unconventional as they are inspired. What the 61 rooms lack in space they make up for with funky touches such as a bed hidden beneath an enormous hoop skirt or a light fixture made from braided ropes that dangle from the ceiling like a luminescent necklace. If the creativity bug strikes during your stay, sewing machines stand at the ready in many of the cozy public spaces. Damrak 50, exchangeamsterdam.com, from $111.


The Manor Hotel—Hampshire Eden
Amsterdam Oost
A century ago, it was a grand hospital in the countryside. Today, the Manor Hotel is a four-star retreat that's a mere 10 minutes by train from Centraal Station. The building still has impressive bones: wrought-iron gates, marble entrance way, ornate brick facade. Front balconies overlook leafy Oosterpark, while rear rooms face an interior garden where you can sip one of 25 wines at Enoteca restaurant. But the cherry-red hallways and oversize headboards sporting kitschy takes on Dutch themes (neon lights reflecting on canals, close-ups of tulips and windmills) give the 125-room hotel an offbeat sense of fun, too. Linnaeusstraat 89, edenhotelgroup.com, from $96.


Hotel JL no. 76
Amsterdam Oud-Zuid
Hotel JL no. 76 isn't just walking distance from the Rijksmuseum and other museum-district mainstays: It aspires to be a member of the club. Paintings and textiles by artists Barbara Broekman and Pietr Keizer fill the walls, and the hotel's unofficial mascots are the racing dog statues standing watch in the lobby window. Each of the 39 rooms features a double-sink vanity outside the bathroom, a plush Coco-Mat mattress atop a king-size bed, and either a walk-in rain shower or Jacuzzi (or both!). Best of all, iPads are available at the front desk, which you're free to use as a personal guide while you admire the Dutch masters just down the street. Jan Luijkenstraat 76, vondelhotels.com, from $135.


Conscious Hotel Vondelpark
Amsterdam Oud-West
In a city that's unusually eco-conscious (three out of four residents bike to work), this 81-room hotel is so green it's almost chartreuse. Named for Amsterdam's largest park-across the street and best explored on one of their 33 rental bikes ($19 per day)-the two-year-old hotel features materials chosen for sustainability and a living plant wall in the lobby. A 100 percent organic, fair-trade breakfast buffet is laid out on tables made from recycled coffee cup waste. You'll even find earth-friendly gifts (like a stuffed animal made from pure yak wool and organic cotton) at the on-site shop. Who says it's not easy being green? Overtoom 519, conscioushotels.com, from $80.

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Family

Travel Guides For Kids, By Kids

How do you know what your kids want to see when you travel? Why not ask kids who live in the city that you're visiting? That's the concept behind a new guidebook app called Bound Round, which is scheduled to launch this December. It's not the first travel guide geared toward kids—there are others such as Lonely Planet's "Not For Parents" series, and ABC Travel Guides for Kids (both of which have more U.S. options than Bound Round, which is based in the U.K.). It does, however, appear to be the first guide that has gone straight to the source and asked kids what they care about. Because the guides are apps they're also interactive in a way that print guidebooks aren't. The program reveals a destination through stories, photos, videos, and games that are designed to entertain and educate young travelers. The goal is to give youngsters the information they need to have a say in family travel decisions (and give them something to do while they get to their destination). There's also a section that makes it easy for kids to create a travel journal that they can share with friends when they return home. Naturally, there's a parent-friendly section with plenty of boring adult details such as opening hours, directions, and so on. The drawback? The program is based out of the UK, so destinations are likely to be places that are easily accessible from that side of the world and not necessarily from the U.S. (they're starting with Sydney, for example). Plus, there's always that pesky problem of scale—it takes a while to build out a guidebook series, so it may be months or even years before your next vacation destination is covered. Still, it's an interesting idea and one to keep an eye on if you have small children.

Inspiration

Where to Stay in Istanbul

Gumusyan Hotel & Restaurant BeyogluThe folks behind this city-center newcomer, opened in October 2010, stripped the century-old residence to its elements. The original brick walls, wood-plank floors, and 130-year-old-walnut slab headboards now lend an authentic patina that newer hotels can only approximate. There's more to this property than just great bones, though. The owners also filled the 14 rooms with a stylish mix of modern furniture (lime-green sofas, Bertoia-style wire-mesh chairs) and classic Ottoman details such as suzani fabrics and Iznik tiles. The hotel has even begun luring locals to its ground-floor restaurant, an upscale take on a meyhane, a traditional Turkish tavern. 9 Asmali Mescit Cad., gumusyan.com, from $119.  House Hotel GalatasarayBeyogluA recent makeover at the hands of urban-cool Turkish design firm Autoban wed the best features of this 19th century building (a sweeping marble staircase, ornate plasterwork) with crisp, contemporary, Scandinavian furnishings. The hotel's 20 guest rooms don't skimp on the creature comforts: king-size, pillow-top beds with goose-down duvets; marble baths stocked with L'Occitane products. But guests may still find themselves haunting the top-floor atrium, where they can lounge on Chesterfield sofas in front of the fireplace or take in the views of Suleymaniye Mosque and the medieval stone Galata Tower. 19 Bostanbasi Cad., thehousehotel.com, from $142.Villa DeniseArnavutköyThe ancient fishing village of Arnavutköy, 30 minutes from the old city by bus, has served as a waterfront retreat for centuries. The last sultans of the Ottoman Empire chose this spot along the Bosphorus for their grandiose hillside homes, and today Istanbul residents make day trips to explore the district's winding cobblestoned streets and celebrated seafood joints. Villa Denise, with its narrow, wallpapered hallways, canopy-draped beds, and tufted fainting couches, evokes the area's haute history—just overlook the odd veneer side table or shabby fixture that tempers the elegance. Two of the five guest rooms have balconies, and all have at least partial views of the Bosphorus. 50 Birinci Cad., villadenise.com.tr, from $144.Ascot Hotel Büyükada At a glance, this 22-room hotel could be just another spruced-up Victorian mansion. Then you notice the neon lights that wash its Doric columns in blue and purple and the Hollywood Regency décor (damask wallpaper, lots of lacquer) in the lobby, and you realize: This hotel is no mere relic. Rooms aim for opulence—most have crystal chandeliers and private balconies—while the large pool, sundeck, and Finnish sauna underscore the resort-escape feel. It's a bit out of the way, on car-free Büyükada island; ferry rides from town take 35 minutes to an hour, depending on the boat. But that's the whole point: You won't find this kind of lost-in-time peace and quiet anywhere on the mainland. 6 Cinar Cad., ascot.com.tr, from $118.

Inspiration

Staff Picks: What's The Weirdest Foreign Candy You've Ever Tasted?

'Tis the season for Halloween candy. And if you think America has cornered the market on weird sweets, think again! What might seem totally standard abroad—something like salty licorice in Scandinavia—can often feel downright bizarre and alien to an American palate.While visiting Hong Kong last year, I bought a bag of assorted candy from a Japanese snack shop called Aji Ichiban. I was expecting the oddest flavor to be something like lychee hard candy. What I found instead were "supreme salted kumquats," preserved mandarin peel, and preserved tomatoes! All of which exceeded my taste expectations. (Luckily, soy sauce duck tongues, which were also being sold in the store as a snack food, hadn't made it into my combo bag.) Here are our staff picks for the weirdest candies from around the world:  Gillian Telling, Editor: My favorite: Plum-flavored chewing gum from Japan. It's tart yet sweet and almost tastes like a perfumed flower. I know I'm not selling it very well here, but it's amazing. If someone nearby is chewing it, you'd be able to smell it's distinct scent within half a block. It's my favorite gum in the world. My other favorite candy in the world is Turkish peppers from Finland. Sweet and salty on the outside, salty and burning hot on the inside.Kaeli Conforti, Digital Editorial Assistant: I couldn't resist a giant colorful lollipop I found in a gelato shop in Rome featuring a smiling, waving Pope Benedict. It was surprisingly sweet with a lemony flavor and made for the perfect souvenir for my friends back home. Danielle Contray, Senior Digital Editor: Wasabi Kit Kats from Japan! A friend brought them back as a souvenir and they were surprisingly delicious.Katharine Van Itallie, Art Director: The weirdest candy I ever ate were chocolate covered ants that my mother brought home—from somewhere—not sure where! She had a great sense of fun. Now it's your turn! Think we missed something truly wacky? Share your favorite weird candy in the comments section below.

Travel Tips

Warning: You'll Never Get These 10 Items Through Customs!

We love souvenirs as much as you do, and we'd never suggest that you skimp on keepsakes that you'll always treasure (though we'll try to find you bargains whenever we can!). But there are a few no-no's that U.S. customs will confiscate if you try to get them past the border—some for health reasons, others for complex economic and cultural reasons. In the interest of saving you time, money—and embarrassment!—here are 10 you should be wary of. Absinthe Try as you might, seeing the green fairy probably isn't going to happen these days: Modern absinthe is different from the low-quality, toxic sort made with poisonous metal salts associated with hallucinogenic properties back in Vincent van Gogh's day; however, it's still illegal to bring certain kinds of absinthe in from other countries due to lack of regulation. In particular, bottles that claim to contain 10 parts per million or more of the chemical thujone are Food & Drug Administration no-nos. (Trivia: If a bottle says it has a lot of thujone, it probably doesn't—absinthe makers who emphasize the alcohol's supposed "mind-altering" properties have their eye on taking tourists' money.) Travel Tip: If you're thirsty for your very own bottle regardless, in addition to double-checking that the booze is "thujone-free," ensure that the stand-alone word "absinthe" or any "psychotropic" image isn't on the bottle. (Rule of thumb: If the label looks like it could double as a Grateful Dead album cover, don't try to bring it on the plane.) To ensure you're getting a quality brand, and not just green food coloring, visit wormwoodsociety.org. Certain plants (and crafts made from plants) Gardening enthusiasts, prepare to present any plant item that you want to bring into the States—even crafts made with straw—to a customs officer for inspection. You'll need a permit even for innocuous-sounding items like cut flowers with berries attached, nursery stock, and seeds. Other fauna, like "noxious weeds," aren't allowed, period. (Even if some do sound quite pleasant, like apricot cape tulip.) Travel Tip: To be safe rather than kiss your prized plant goodbye at check-in, apply for a USDA Plant Protection and Quarantine permit online (aphis.usda.gov) to bring acceptable plants into the states—or check if they're prohibited. Permits take 30 days or more to process and are good for up to three years. Ivory (including jewelry made from ivory) It's safe to assume that you'll need a permit from the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (fws.gov/permits) to bring any ivory into the country, due to the Endangered Species Act. (Unless the item in question is from a warthog, but, really, who wants that?) You can import an antique ivory item if you have special documentation showing it's more than 100 years old, but thanks to rampant poaching, any object that's younger is generally not allowed. Travel Tip: If you want to make a jewelry or a trinket haul, but the stuff you want appears to be made from tortoiseshell, ivory, whalebone, or skins, give the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service a buzz at 800/358-2104 to be sure they're okay to purchase and bring home. Ancient artifacts So many items have been stolen from museums and churches that any ancient artifact (like pre-Columbian objects, Native American artifacts, Byzantine items, culturally significant Iraqi property, etc.) requires an export permit—and a real one at that: There are many fake certificates floating around. The U.S. National Stolen Property Act prevents individuals from legally owning a swiped item, regardless of how many people have since possessed it. Travel Tip: If you want to bring back a ruin or antique to keep—not to, for example, exhibit in a museum—you'll need an export permit from the country you're taking it out of. And even then, you could face U.S. import restrictions, depending on the item and the country. (Your historical find might be considered a "pillage.") Peruse the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs's website for information on what's not allowed (exchanges.state.gov/heritage/culprop.html). Meat-based products (even soup mix) Bush meat made from African wildlife and anything imbued with meat products—like bouillon, soup mixes, etc.—from most countries could introduce serious pathogens into the U.S. and spread unpleasant conditions like foot-and-mouth disease, African swine fever, mad cow disease, and the avian flu. That goes for canned and dried meats too. Travel Tip: There are a few countries deemed acceptable to export certain meats from—scan the USDA's website to make sure: aphis.usda.gov. Big souvenirs from Cuba, Iran, or much of Sudan Economic sanctions prevent visitors from bringing items back from these countries (Cuban cigars, for example). You can apply for a license from the Office of Foreign Assets Control if you wish to import something, but it's rare that you'll actually get one. Travel Tip: A few exceptions to this rule exist: Books, magazines, films, photographs, posters, art, and music are okay, as are small gifts worth less than $100. Most fruits and vegetables One teensy piece of fruit carried onto an airplane caused the great California Mediterranean fruit fly outbreak of the early 1980s. The pestilence threatened the state's agriculture—and set the federal government back $100 million to eliminate. (Think about how bad that person must have felt.) If you're determined to bring fruit back, the USDA has a long list of what's permissible (aphis.usda.gov/favir)—nearly every fruit and veggie (possibly with the exception of an apple you bought in an airport, for example) requires a permit. Travel Tip: Be aware that you'll have to show your fruit to a customs officer for inspection, especially if it's something exotic, like pomegranate. Fail to report your produce, and you could be hit with a $300 fine. Designer knockoffs and cartoon-character paraphernalia Tempting as it might be to stock up on faux labels when you're out of the country, goods like fake Chanel bags and nearly real Mickey Mouse knickknacks are subject to U.S. copyright and trademark protections. The government is so serious about enforcing this that your haul of "confusingly similar" trademarked merchandise could be seized. Travel Tip: If you just want one fake bag to use for yourself (and not sell on Canal Street), that's okay: You can be granted an exemption by the government. But know that you can only bring one item of its kind into the country—so a pair of sunglasses, a purse, and a pair of jeans are okay, but three purses are not, regardless of whether they have three different labels. Another note: You can only get this exemption once every 30 days. More than $10,000 cash To make it rain on the plane, you'll have to report the cash first. Smuggling "bulk currency" (an offense under the Bank Secrecy Act) is the kind of thing drug traffickers are known to do, therefore U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement doesn't take kindly to it. Money orders, travelers' checks, and foreign coins—not just paper bills—count too. Travel Tip: To bring your money in legally, obtain the exhaustively named "Report of International Transportation of Currency of Monetary Instruments" from a customs officer. If you don't, you could face up to five years in jail. Some Haitian Goat Hide Drums Hauling an animal-skin drum through an airport seems ripe for a comedy of misunderstanding anyway (the ceremonial snake bowl that Renée Zellweger brought back from Thailand in the second Bridget Jones movie didn't do her any favors), but some goat-skin drums aren't treated properly, and have been tied to a cutaneous anthrax case, putting them on the Centers for Disease Control's restricted list. Same goes for some African drums. Travel Tip: If getting your mitts on your own personal drum is in your plans, ensure it's been tanned, as that means it's non-infectious.