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As Rome eagerly awaits the May opening of its Zaha Hadid–designed MAXXI museum, there's a more intimate—but still spectacular—experience to be had 95 miles north, at a 5-month-old contemporary art space in the medieval hillside village of Città della Pieve. Collector and founder Massimo Lauro devised the idea for The Garden of Laurels, a nod to his last name and the laurels that grow on the property, in 2004. His attempts to show a conceptual work, a life-size cabin made of sourdough by Urs Fischer, in a major museum were roundly blocked, so Lauro, the son of pop-art collectors, took matters into his own hands. With his wife, Angela, he transformed his family's Umbrian winery into 7,000 square feet of galleries, sculpture gardens, and performance space. It all serves as a showcase for the Lauros' 300-piece collection of paintings, photography, and large-scale installations by artists from Roxy Paine to Dash Snow, as well as the fittingly optimistic entryway sculpture by Swiss mixed-media artist Ugo Rondinone (pictured). ilgiardinodeilauri.it, free, open Fridays and Saturdays, 10 a.m.–6 p.m., or by appointment. From the February 2010 issue of Budget Travel.

Whiling away the hours over a pint of beer in a London pub is one of the city's most enjoyable pleasures. And it has been for centuries. The great 18th century writer, critic, and Londoner-about-town Dr. Johnson once wrote that "there is nothing which has yet been contrived by man by which so much happiness is produced as by a good tavern or inn." And London has more than 5,500 to choose from. Unlike their American counterparts, London pubs come in a bewildering variety. There are quiet "locals" (frequented by quiet locals) and rowdy chain pubs with pumping music and barely a space to sit. There are restaurant pubs serving everything from a ploughman's lunch (bread, a chunk of Stilton cheese, salad, and pickles) to those with a full foodie menu which are great at lunchtimes. And there are pubs with live music, gardens, galleries, and even theatres. The London pub in short is a catch-all space, where the cool English temperament is warmed by the national drink—beer. Choosing a beer is part of the art of enjoying a London pub. Unlike in an American bar, you will rarely find a drinks menu. Instead head to the bar and look at the taps. Lever taps (photographed above) pour brewer conditioned keg beers, stouts (like Guinness), or ciders (made from fermented apple juice). The tall taps with ceramic handles and badges pour "real ale." There are also bottles in refrigerated cases behind the bar—usually containing specialist and imported beers, such as Samuel Adams. And if you don't feel like something alcoholic, there are canned (and very rarely fresh) juices, cordials, and usually instant tea or coffee. But the real choice in a pub lies in the real ales, which are akin to micro-brewery beers back home. Real ale is a natural product brewed using traditional ingredients and left to mature in the cask (container) from which it is served in the pub, through a process called secondary fermentation. The process makes real ale unique amongst beers and gives it a distinct rich taste and aroma. There are some 2,500 different real ales in Britain produced by around 500 brewers. Ales tend to be cheaper than keg beers. Every year there are competitions run by the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) to decide on the best ales in the country. Look out for a banner under the badge on the tap. Or ask the bar man. Beers come in pints or half-pints. Prices in a pub depends on the location as much as the kind of beer. Central London pubs and those closest to tourist attractions tend to be more expensive, of course. Local pubs tend to be cheaper. I'll do a list of some of the best in various categories in a later blog post. In the meantime, you may find recommendations at camra.org.uk. MORE Drink Beer Better Experts offer their tips Trip Coach: How can you save money on London's subways and buses? See Budget Travel's new London City page