The New Boutique Hostel

ENGLAND Bamburgh Castle, Bamburgh, Northumberland. Fortifications have stood on this rocky outcrop near the North Sea since the 5th century. In the 12th century, King Henry II acquired the structure, and later it was snapped up by William Armstrong, a wealthy Victorian industrialist. Still owned by Armstrong's descendents, the castle has served as the location for several movies, including Roman Polanski's 1971 version of Macbeth. After you tour the castle, which is open to the public from March to October, hop over to nearby Holy Island for a visit to Lindisfarne Castle. This stunner also overlooks the sea and is accessible only at low tide (the causeway connecting it to the mainland floods at high tide). 011-44/16-6821-4515, bamburghcastle.com, admission $10.75 (£7). Leeds Castle, Maidstone, Kent. More than 900 years old, this moated castle regularly hosted that much-married Tudor, Henry VIII. Its current success as one of England's most popular tourist attractions is due to the work of the blue-blooded Olive Wilson Filmer, who outbid William Randolph Hearst to buy the castle for $873,000 in 1926 (that's over $10 million in today's dollars). Filmer used the rest of her fortune to restore and beautify the structure and its surroundings. On the grounds are several mazes, a display on falconry, and a dog-collar museum. 011-44/16-2276-5400, leeds-castle.com, admission (valid for a year) $25.25 (£15). SCOTLAND Eilean Donan, Dornie, Scottish Highlands. Planted on an island in the middle of a loch, Scotland's most famous castle looks as if it's been there forever. It does date back to 1220, but the original structure was destroyed in 1719 and lay in ruins for two centuries. In 1919, Lieutenant Colonel John Macrae-Gilstrap bought it and began restoration. He was helped by the stonemason Farquar Macrae, who claimed to have seen in a dream how the original castle looked in earlier times. The castle was rebuilt according to Macrae's specifications; later, plans found at Edinburgh Castle proved his vision correct. The "new" castle was finished in 1932. 011-44/15-9955-5202, eileandonancastle.com, admission $7.75 (£5). WALES Beaumaris, Angelsey, Wales. The English king Edward I began raising this castle as part of his campaign to conquer Wales. Work began in 1295, but the castle had not been completed when the money ran out (as so often happened with castles), and it remains unfinished to this day. Castles are thick on the ground in North Wales: Within easy driving distance from Beaumaris, you'll find the major structures of Conwy, Harlech, and Caernarfon, as well as two small, romantic ruins, Dolbadarn and Dolwyddelan. But Beaumaris remains the most beautiful. 011/44-12-4881-0361, beaumaris.com, admission $5.75 (£3.70). GERMANY Neuschwanstein Castle, Hohenschwangau, Bavaria. Ludwig II of Bavaria—a.k.a. Mad King Ludwig—commissioned a set designer to create Neuschwanstein. Engineers broke ground in 1869, but King Ludwig didn't get much chance to enjoy his over-the-top palace. In 1886, as the castle was nearing completion, he died under suspicious circumstances; his body was found floating in a lake, with the body of his physician nearby. Despite this unhappy ending, Neuschwanstein remains the quintessential fairy-tale castle: It was a major inspiration for Sleeping Beauty's Castle at Disneyland. 011-49/83-6293-9880, neuschwanstein.de, admission $13 (€9). DENMARK Kronborg Castle, Helsingør. Dating back to the 1420s, Kronborg is one of the best-preserved Renaissance castles, despite the various alterations it's undergone since then. Positioned next to a strait separating the Danish island of Sjælland from Sweden, it had great strategic power over the sea traffic—not enough, however, to prevent the persistent Swedes from conquering it in 1658. Kronborg gained more lasting fame as the castle in Shakespeare's Hamlet. 011-45/3392-6300, kronborgcastle.com, admission $16.50 (85 DKK). FRANCE Château de Castelnaud, Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, Dordogne. This impressive fortress, located on the limestone rocks above the Dordogne River, overlooks a former enemy, the Château de Beynac. During the Hundred Years' War, the English held Castelnaud and the French controlled Beynac, with both nations hoping to control this sensitive border region. These days Castelnaud is known for its Museum of Medieval Warfare, which includes reconstructions of giant crossbows and trebuchets, the huge slings used to hurl rocks at castle walls. 011-33/55-331-3000, www.castelnaud.com, admission $11 (€7.60). Haut-Koenigsbourg Castle, Orschwiller, Alsace. The hilltop position of this 12th-century castle, more than 2,000 feet above the Alsace plain, kept it safe for centuries. Destruction came in 1462 and again in 1633 after a siege by Swedish soldiers during the Hundred Years' War, after which it was overgrown by the forest and abandoned. Now it's a popular stop for tourists visiting the Alsatian wine region. 011-33/38-882-5060, haut-koenigsbourg.fr, admission $10.50 (€7.50). ROMANIA Bran Castle, Bran, Brasov. Both the keepers of Bran Castle and the Romanian Tourist Board are keen to emphasize links between Bran Castle and Vlad the Impaler, the inspiration for Bram Stoker's Count Dracula. The connections are tenuous, but there's no denying the spooky charm of this massive structure's many turrets and towers. Some of the furniture on display was owned by Marie of Romania, a granddaughter of Queen Victoria who turned down a proposal from the future King George V of England and married the king of Romania instead. 011-40/26-823-8333, www.brancastlemuseum.ro, admission $4.25 (12 leu). SWITZERLAND Château de Chillon, Lake Geneva, Montreaux. As with most real estate, it's often location, location, location that makes all the difference with castles. On an island near the edge of Lake Geneva, Château de Chillon is no exception. Excavations here have turned up evidence of a Bronze Age settlement, but the castle as it now stands was created between the 12th and 18th centuries. Its popularity got a huge boost in 1816. That year, following a visit, Lord Byron published his long poem "The Prisoner of Chillon"; the work refers to the "seven pillars of Gothic mold" that stand in "Chillon's dungeons deep and old." 011-41/21-966-8910, www.chillon.ch, admission: $11 (12 Swiss francs).

CLOSE TO HOME If you really want to save in 2009—and help to revive a sagging domestic economy—travel within the United States. These three U.S. destinations are set to shine in the New Year. AUSTIN Why in 2009: For years, the capital of down-home cool (and Texas) has been working to become the nation's capital of pop culture—at least among cities of a similar size. This city of 1.6 million residents has succeeded in its mission, especially as a venue for indie rock, bluegrass, and country music. Its largest music festival is South by Southwest, a multi-day, 1,700-band extravaganza that draws serious music fans nationwide (sxsw.com, Mar. 18–22, 2009). Austin's economy, meanwhile, is well diversified between public and private sectors, which means that Austin is poised to weather the economic downturn reasonably well, says University of Texas at Austin economy professor Daniel S. Hamermesh. So it should be full speed ahead on spending for free and affordable cultural events. A bonus: In the past year, discounter JetBlue has added flights to Austin. Rival airlines are feeling the pressure to keep airfares low. Main events: Thousands of music fans converge on the city each year for two festivals: South by Southwest (mentioned above) and the Austin City Limits Music Festival (aclfestival.com, Oct. 2–4). Art lovers come for the Texas Biennial (texasbiennial.com, Mar. 6–Apr. 11) and the open-air Art City Austin (artallianceaustin.org, Apr. 25-26). Even if you're not in town for a big event, keep in mind that Austin has pretty weather for eight months of the year (summer's the sweltering exception). With its extensive Greenbelt park as well as 10 miles of waterfront paths, it's easy to get outside and enjoy a little nature. Memorable moment: Chill out on the terrace bar of the Inter-Continental Stephen F. Austin hotel, overlooking downtown. Order a Stephen F. Top Shelf, the house margarita, tip your hat to the mounted longhorn on the wall, and watch the Texas Capitol turn pink as the last rays of the sun hit it. 701 Congress Ave., 888/424-6835, austin.intercontinental.com, margaritas from $10. Price check: Round-trip tickets between Austin and Chicago recently started at $210, a 9 percent drop from a year earlier, says Farecast. Affordable lodging isn't hard to come by. Hotel rates should average a modest $104 a night, says a forecast by PKF Hospitality Research. We like the stylish Austin Motel, starting at $70. 1220 S. Congress Ave., 512/441-1157, austinmotel.com. WASHINGTON, D.C. Why in 2009: It's not just the presidential inauguration, the Capitol's freshly minted visitor center, or the recently re-opened National Museum of American History—all reasons enough to drop by D.C. in 2009. It's also the built-in, year-round cost containment: Free admission to national monuments, the Smithsonian's many world-class museums, and the Smithsonian National Zoological Park make the capital a perennial choice for an affordable family vacation. (For other ideas, check out Destination DC's list of "100 Free (And Almost Free) Things to Do in D.C.") Main events: The popularity of the upcoming presidential inauguration is jacking up prices temporarily around January 20. But there's plenty else to see in D.C. during the rest of the year. On April 12, for example, a re-creation of contralto Marian Anderson's famous 1939 open-air concert at the Lincoln Memorial will commemorate the bicentennial of Abraham Lincoln's birth. This year's rendition showcases Denyce Graves, the Chicago Children's Choir, Sweet Honey in the Rock, and the Washington National Opera (lincolnindc.com, free and non-ticketed). Memorable moment: For lunch, head to the tapas restaurant Jaleo for a shared plate of house-made grilled pork sausage with sautéed white beans (jaleo.com, $8.50). After a walk along the National Mall, end your day at the rooftop bar and terrace of the W Hotel, debuting in August (whotels.com), and watch the sun set over the Thomas Jefferson Memorial (nps.gov/thje, free). Price check: If you plan wisely, free admissions should yield huge savings for your family. To save even more, fly into Baltimore/Washington International (BWI) airport, roughly an hour's ride by Amtrak rail or by public transportation to D.C.'s Union Station. Southwest's strong presence at BWI makes fares more competitive than those at the more central Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport. HAWAII Why in 2009: The Aloha State received positive, high-profile press coverage when president-elect Barack Obama recently visited, but it's still hurting from the downtown of the national economy. This always-popular destination saw about a 10 percent drop in visitors in 2008, a statistic that represents a tourism drought for Hawaii. Tour operators are responding by aggressively discounting un-booked rooms and car rentals and bundling them into packages. As we enter 2009, there are remarkable package deals, air inclusive, from both the west and east coasts. To save a bundle, consider a timeshare rental instead of a standard hotel stay. Rental rates are dropping to as low as $100 a night for beautiful properties, says Timeshare Users Group (tug2.net), a site tracking timeshare rental inventory in Hawaii and elsewhere. Many of the timeshare properties are owned by people who are now anxious about making their mortgage payments, and you can rent their spacious units at a significant discount, without listening to any sales spiels. Main events: It's Hawaii—beaches, volcanoes, and luaus will continue to be the big draws. But this year marks Hawaii's 50th anniversary of statehood, and a party is planned at the Capitol for March 18 (free, hawaii.gov/statehood). Obama watchers can take a do-it-yourself tour of the president-elects's childhood haunts by using a map from Obamasneighborhood.com; or hop on a two-and-a-half-hour bus tour of his grade school, the Baskin-Robbins where he once worked, and several picnic spots that he loved (Guides of Oahu, obamatourhawaii.com, $40 per person). Memorable moment: Have a mai tai made the right way at the Royal Hawaiian, a landmark pink hotel in Waikiki Beach. It's a beautiful spot for watching the surfers wipe out and the sun go down—and taking in live Hawaiian music and hula dancing. 2259 Kalakaua Ave., Honolulu, 808/923-7311, mai tai from $14. Price check: Pleasant Holidays has numerous Hawaii promotions, including three-night air/hotel packages starting at $427 per person from Los Angeles and $472 per person from San Francisco (pleasantholidays.net). Apple Vacations also has deals, such as a recent offer for six-night stays at the Sheraton Princess Kaiulani, including a $150 per-room voucher for meals at Sheraton restaurants. The package rates begin at $999 (applevacations.com, from Baltimore, Newark, and other airports). TUMBLING CURRENCIES The financial crisis has weakened currencies around the globe against the U.S. dollar. Although predicting currency trends is a tricky business, Hungary, Iceland, and Mexico should remain bargains for U.S. visitors in the coming year. BUDAPEST, HUNGARY Why in 2009: Budapest has become the sort of expat haven that Prague was in the '90s, back before the Czech capital's cafés started charging $4 for an espresso and tour groups suddenly outnumbered locals. Recently, the U.S dollar has surged in hard-hit Hungary, gaining 30 percent against the declining local currency, the forint. In addition to savoring the city's glorious art nouveau architecture, anchored by the imposing Museum of Applied Arts in the center of town, you can shop in the well-preserved Great Market Hall, explore the miles of caves under Castle District (former hideouts for soldiers during wartime), and catch a show at the Hungarian State Opera House, where standing-room tickets go for only $2. Main events: Budapest's monthly design market WAMP is well on the way to renown as an international fashion destination. The market, which spotlights contemporary handcrafts, jewelry, prints, and other items from Hungarian craftsmen, is held in the summer and fall in Erzsébet Square and in winter at Gödör Klub (wamp.hu/en, free). Hungary's two largest cultural and foodie events are the Budapest Spring Festival, a collection of 200 free and ticketed concert music performances (festivalcity.hu), and fall's 18th Budapest International Wine Festival, which encompasses tastings and workshops at Buda Castle (winefestival.hu, free). Memorable moment: Take a dip in the therapeutic hot springs of Budapest, which have drawn travelers for nearly 2,000 years. The Gellért Baths and Spa Budapest (H-1118 Budapest, Kelenhegyi út 4, 011-36/1-466-6166, gellertbath.com), an opulent 19th-century spa hotel with mosaic tiles and palm fronds, costs charges roughly $18 for a day in its pool. Browse spasbudapest.com for more options. Price check: As business travel tanks, vacationers may score the best values by upgrading to hotels that traditionally serve corporate travelers. Budget Travel's pick for the city's best value hotel, NH Budapest (nh-hotels.com), recently offered rooms for $93 a night, about 41 percent off its average rate, according to TripAdvisor. City tours on foot or by bus are between $10 and $20 because guides cost about a third less in Budapest than in other Western European capitals. REYKJAVIK, ICELAND Why in 2009: The dramatic collapse of Iceland's currency, the kronur, has hung a 48-percent-off sign on virtually everything for American tourists. A hot dog (an Icelandic specialty) in downtown Reykjavik, for example, runs about 210 kronur—that's $3.50 in U.S. dollars at last year's exchange rates, but about $2 today. Meanwhile, in a bid to lure tourists, Icelandair has recently rolled out steep airfare discounts. Published fares to Iceland for early 2009 are down 22 percent from a year earlier, says Expedia. Main events: Astoundingly, beer was illegal in Iceland until 1989. On March 1, Beer Day, Reykjavikers toast its legalization with parties at pubs, clubs, and restaurants (goiceland.org). On June 21, the summer solstice, locals cheer the midnight sun on the longest day of the year. Cuteness alert: Watch the island's adorable baby puffins as millions of them leave their nests in early August for that first oh-so-awkward attempt at flight. See the event as part of many organized tours (visiticeland.com). Memorable moment: Soak in one of the city's seven hot pots—outdoor thermal pools. Save by purchasing a Reykjavik Welcome Card, which includes admission to the hot pots plus five museums, a family park and a zoo, as well as transport on city buses and a ferry trip to Videy Island (a noted spot for bird watching). A 24-hour card is about $11 at today's exchange rates (visiticeland.com). Price check: Rates at the Park Inn Island Hotel, for instance, start from $87, and it has amenities that are roughly comparable with the ones offered at a Radisson in the U.S. Look to Icelandair.com for fare sales and air/hotel packages to Reykjavik. But shop aggressively for a rental car, which can be expensive in Iceland, by comparison shopping at metasearch websites such as Kayak. MEXICO Why in 2009: Our southern neighbor has always been relatively affordable, but this year is special. The U.S. dollar's exchange rate against the Mexican peso is at its most favorable point in 15 years. Prices should be down across Mexico, including in high-profile destinations like Mexico City, Oaxaca, and Cancun. Resort destinations that have become newly popular, such as Riviera Nayarit and Puerto Peñasco (Rocky Point) should be positively cheap this year. Main events: Catch some sun in Riviera Nayarit, a trendy tourist region recently launched by Mexican officials. About 20 miles north of the Puerto Vallarta International airport, the new hotspot stretches along 100 miles of Pacific coast (rivieranayarit.com). March brings the 25th anniversary of the Festival de México, an 18-day celebration of arts and culture held in the country's vibrant capital (festival.org.mx, free and ticketed). Starting May 10, residents of Oaxaca come together for a week of dance and processions (oaxacainfo.com). Memorable moment: The Easter season is a fine time to experience the country's culture up-close because of the often-exuberant ways that Mexicans celebrate the holiday. In San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, a Good Friday procession dramatizes key moments of Jesus's crucifixion, for example. And Easter Sunday commemorations end with participants exploding effigies of despised historical figures, including Judas Iscariot (internetsanmiguel.com, free). Price check: Budget Travel's Web tool can help you pinpoint the Mexican resort towns that are linked to your nearest airport by nonstop flights (budgettravel.com/nonstopmexico). For example, an all-inclusive package at the Tesoro Resorts in Ixtapa—on Mexico's Pacific Coast—includes food, alcoholic and nonalcoholic drinks, and lots of entertainment, starting at just $170 per room, per night, and children under 12 stay for free (tesororesorts.com, 866-998-3767). IN THE NEWS Major events and anniversaries should keep Berlin and Vancouver in the spotlight for much of the year. Plan ahead to be a part of the action, and take advantage of the favorable economic climate, too. BERLIN Why in 2009: It's the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall. Plus, the city's been on a long construction spree: Berlin now has one of the world's most dynamic skylines, thanks to innovative buildings such as the swoopy O2 World stadium and the city's vast, sleekly modern main train station. Despite all the moving and shaking, Berlin remains a bargain. Even in the financially flush year of 2007, four- and five-star rooms averaged €130 a night; comparable rooms in Paris and London priced out at more than twice as much. Splurge by opting for a fancier hotel than usual. Swissôtel Berlin, our pick for best value hotel in Europe, has rooms from $188 (011-49/30-220-100, swissotel.com/berlin). Main events: Throughout the year, Berlin will commemorate the fall of the Wall with concerts, memorials, and an open-air-exhibition in Alexanderplatz. On November 9, at the Brandenburg Gate, a symbolic wall of hundreds of five-foot-tall stones decorated by children will fall like dominos, launching a fireworks display (mauerfall09.com). Also in autumn, the rebuilt Neues Museum will open on Berlin's central Museum Island, displaying masterworks that include the world-famous bust of ancient Egypt's Queen Nefertiti. Memorable moment: Take the official, self-guided Berlin Wall tour using the GPS-integrated WallGuide (mauerguide.com, $13). Among the sights is Potsdamer Platz, the city's central plaza, surrounded by showstopping buildings that include Renzo Piano's gorgeous, glass-and-terra-cotta shopping arcade (visitberlin.de, free). Price check: Rooms in many of Berlin's three-star hotels will go for about $90 this year. Pension ABC, for example, is a squeaky-clean, family-run inn near Potsdamer Platz with doubles from $89 (011-49/30-2694-9903). VANCOUVER, B.C. Why in 2009: Americans heading to Canada finally have the U.S. dollar back on their side. Exchange rates have rebounded to 2005 levels. And fares into Vancouver for the first three months of 2009 are down 24 percent from a year earlier, says Farecast. Meanwhile, the city has been busy glamming itself up to prepare for February 2010, when it hosts the Winter Olympics. It's spent lots of money to retool infrastructure and unveil cool new venues. The Vancouver Convention and Exhibition Centre, for instance, is now topped with a six-acre rooftop garden of 400,000 native plants and wild grasses that are partly irrigated by a sophisticated rainwater collection system. Main events: Olympic host cities love to premiere cutting-edge architecture in advance of the Games, and Vancouver is no exception. Visit in 2009 to get a sneak peek (vancouver2010.com). A case in point is the Richmond Oval, a new 8,000-seat arena with a speed-skating track and a glass façade that yields clear, expansive views of the rugged North Shore Mountains (richmondoval.ca). Vancouver will also be trading on all the Olympian attention to tout its local arts and entertainment scene. The Cultural Olympiad's 400-plus events include ice sculptures, circus acts, and a concert by the band Arcade Fire (vancouver2010.com/culturalolympiad, Feb. 1–Mar. 21). Among the city's other events, Grammy-Award-winning saxophonist Sonny Rollins returns to the TD Canada Trust Vancouver International Jazz Festival on June 29 (admission from $67, coastaljazz.ca). Memorable moment: Cap off a visit to 1,000-acre Stanley Park with afternoon tea or dinner at The Fish House, a cozy clapboard 1930s building, complete with a fireplace, two patios, and live jazz on Thursday nights. It overlooks the park's gardens and forests of cedar, hemlock, and firs. Try the prawns, sautéed with garlic, roasted red peppers, tomatoes, basil, and feta cheese, then flambéed tableside with ouzo. (8901 Stanley Park Drive, 604/681-7275, fishhousestanleypark.com, flaming prawns $15). Price check: The Listel Hotel, a highly rated, artfully decorated boutique in the city's West End, recently put its rooms on sale via Orbitz starting at $65 a night—75 percent off the hotel's average price. BEAT THE CROWDS These countries are hardly undiscovered, but it's not too late to enjoy them either. Plan a trip in 2009, so you can say you knew these places before they were overrun. CAMBODIA Why in 2009: It's no longer a backpacker's secret. In 2008, the country drew about 2 million visitors, more than 10 times the number it drew a decade ago. Cambodia's still off the radar for most Americans, but it's poised to take the same path as its better-known neighbor Vietnam, which saw a similar number of visitors nine years ago and now draws roughly 4 million visitors annually. Look for independently owned guesthouses because the major resort chains haven't built much here yet; and by all means, go before the crowds get too thick. Main events: The sprawling Angkor complex and its magnificent Hindu and Buddhist temples between the 9th and 15th centuries will always be the star attractions here. Expect to spend at least two days exploring. In nearby Siem Reap, shop at the Artisans d'Angkor collective, where those making traditional handicrafts gain a guaranteed percentage of the profit (011-855/63-963-330, artisansdangkor.com). Memorable moment: Rent bicycles in and around Siem Reap for less than $2 a day. Although the somewhat creaky models and frequently unpaved roads can make for a bumpy ride, it's a low-key way to explore the temples at your own pace—and to see the Cambodian people and landscape more intimately. Price check: For recommendations for independently owned guesthouses, turn to Asiarooms.com, which recently listed rooms at Monoreach Angkor Hotel in Siem Reap at a starting rate of $33 per night. If you'd prefer an expert's guiding hand, consider Intrepid Travel's Heart of Cambodia tour. A guide will escort you around Phnom Penh, arrange a sunset viewing over Angkor Wat, and walk you through the depths of the Phnom Chhnork caves. The 15-day tour costs $1,400 per person (whether traveling single or as part of a couple), covering lodgings but not airfare—less than $100 a day (intrepidtravel.com). PANAMA Why in 2009: Panama has led tourism growth in Central and South American countries for two years running, posting back-to-back 20 and 30 percent gains in 2007 and 2008, respectively. Last year, the country surpassed the one-million-visitors mark, welcoming 1.2 million leisure travelers. That's about how popular Costa Rica was in 1999—before it emerged as a solidly mainstream destination. Compared with Costa Rica, Panama has more animal species and a larger amount of preserved terrain filled with colorful macaws, monkeys, and endangered shore birds. Main events: The Panama Jazz Festival, held January 1–17, will feature saxophonist Wayne Shorter's quartet (panamajazzfestival.com, from $10). Panama's Carnival celebrations, running February 2–24, are some of the largest pre-Lenten parties in the world. The bulk of the parades and revelry will take place in Panama City and Las Tablas (visitpanama.com). Memorable moment: Climb Cerro Jefe (Boss Mountain) in Chagres National Park, whose summit stands nearly 3,000 feet above sea level. When the weather cooperates, you can see the Panama Canal and both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans (visitpanama.com). Back in the capital, thread your way through the cobbled streets lined with Spanish mansions in the colonial-era district of Casco Viejo, used as a stand-in for Haiti in many scenes in Quantum of Solace. Price check: American Airlines Vacations has a three-night winter stay at the Veneto Hotel & Casino from $87 per person per night (aavacations.com). Keep a lid on costs by booking at locally owned inns. Among TripAdvisor's top rated B&Bs in Panama is La Estancia (011-507/314-1581, bedandbreakfastpanama.com, from $75 for singles and doubles). It's on a hill next to a nature reserve.

The Schlafly Tap Room St. Louis's first brewpub, which opened in 1991, has a traditional pub atmosphere: Classic dishes like bratwurst on a bun and beer cheese soup are served in a dark, noisy, and sometimes smoky environment. What to Drink The six year-round brews are predominantly ales, and seasonal drinks like the winter Belgian Triple (a rich, fruity golden ale) tend to dry up quickly. Extras Live pop/rock/alternative music Friday and Saturday nights and blues on Sunday nights with no cover; a patio. 2100 Locust St., 314/241-2337, schlafly.com. Schlafly Bottleworks Bottleworks has won over hipsters thanks to farmers markets in the parking lot, screenings of the Three Stooges and Strange Brew—a series of cult films like Slapshot—and a vegan- and vegetarian-friendly menu (the pistachio ravioli is a favorite). What to Drink The amber, mildly hoppy pale ale and the full-bodied oatmeal stout, a caramel malt and roasted barley blend. Extras Live folk and bluegrass bands Thursday through Saturday with no cover; a patio with a fire pit—staff will build a fire for you. 7260 Southwest Ave., Maplewood, 314/241-2337, schlafly.com. Wm. D. Alandale's Brewing Company Located in the subdued suburb of Kirkwood, Alandale's tends to be less crowded, and its patrons tend to be a bit older. Large windows overlook the historic downtown—handy for people-watching. What to Drink The beer list is a fairly even split between lagers and ales. Chocolate lovers must try the white chocolate raspberry cheesecake served with the oatmeal stout ale—heaven. Extras Live music on the weekends with a $5 cover; a patio. Happy Hour 3:30 p.m.–7 p.m. and 11:30 p.m.–1:30 a.m. Monday–Friday, $2.50 pints. 105 E. Jefferson Ave., 314/966-2739, alandalebrewing.com. Morgan Street Brewery Morgan has a smaller beer selection but the most diverse decors: an intimate martini lounge, a dance floor with a DJ, and an upper back patio where you can tuck into a burger while watching the sun set over the city skyline. Morgan is in Laclede's Landing—an area crowded with bars and clubs—and gets jam-packed on weekends. What to Drink Sample the Irish stout, which tastes of fairly bitter coffee and chocolate, or the lightly flavored honey wheat lager from North America's youngest master brewer, Marc Gottfried, promoted at age 22. Extras patio. 721 North Second St., 314/231-9970, morganstreetbrewery.com, closed Mon. Square One Brewery The owners of Square One, in the historic Lafayette Square neighborhood, jazzed up its 19th-century brownstone with earth tones and an elegant slate and hardwood bar that stocks a range of brews, predominantly ales. What to Drink Experiment with the Bavarian Weizen, which has an unexpected pairing of banana and cloves, or bottles of the Winter Ale, a festive combo of cinnamon, nutmeg, and almond. Happy Hour 4 p.m.–6 p.m. Monday–Friday, $3.25 pints. Extras A patio. 1727 Park Ave., 314/231-2537, squareonebrewery.com.

Adam Karlin: Hi everyone. This is Adam Karlin. I'm excited to answer your questions and get you ready for a trip to Florida, which must be nicer than the cold, Maryland winter day I'm sitting in right now. FYI, my area of expertise is South Florida—from Ft. Lauderdale on down—so I may not be able to answer questions about other areas of the state. Let's get started. _______________________ Los Angeles, Calif.: We are taking a cruise that leaves San Diego and arrives in Ft. Lauderdale on Jan 17. We are also doing a Bahamas cruise from Miami from Jan 19 to Jan 23. We fly home on Jan 24 from Fort Lauderdale. That leaves us Jan 17, 18, and 23 to explore the area. I was thinking of the Everglades Tram tour on the morning of Jan 17. What else would you suggest for those 3 days? We are 62 and 61. We love doing everything, museums, nature, sightseeing, including seeing things that most people ignore or don't know exist. Adam Karlin: Hi, L.A. Given your schedule, you have a few options. First, I'd say spend the 23rd exploring Ft. Lauderdale. There's easily enough in town to fill a day—you can start around the excellent Museum of Art, then take a stroll down the Riverwalk and soak up the shops and riverfront area. Check out Bonnet House, a historical residency that's right on the waterfront in the riverfront. You'd also want to visit the Fort Lauderdale Historical Society and have a look around the surrounding, somewhat artificial but still interesting 'old Florida' village that's been recreated in the immediate vicinity. For dinner, have a stroll down Las Olas Blvd; there's all kinds of restaurants and a general vibe of a city having a good time. On the 17th and 18th you can either spend one day in the Everglades and one day in Miami, or two days in one or the other—it depends on if you want to rush things or take your time. If you do the Everglades Tram, try to drive across the state to Everglades City afterwards—you'll get to soak up some great 'Glades scenery in the process. If you do Miami, you could either see the deco in South Beach in a day, or take a spin around Little Havana and the Miracle Mile area of Coral Gables—both interesting neighborhoods that are very walkable (you'll need a taxi to get between each 'hood). _______________________ Glasgow, Mo.: In your opinion, what is the prettiest beach(es) in Florida? On the Atlantic side or Gulf of Mexico side? Adam Karlin: There's no right answer here, but in general, if you like deeper blue ocean and waves, the Atlantic side is better, whereas the Gulf offers calmer waters and a bit more teal. Of course, this depends on what kind of cities you like. The Gulf-side towns are much smaller and more laid back than the cities like Miami, Ft. Lauderdale, West Palm Beach, Daytona Beach, etc. For my money, I really love Ft. Lauderdale's beachfront promenade. _______________________ McCormick, S.C.: When is the best month to visit Florida as to average temperature in the Fort Lauderdale area? Adam Karlin: It depends on what kind of weather you like best, but I love early spring in that part of the state; it's warm but not uncomfortably so. Obviously, the summer months can be extremely hot, but on the other hand, when you're on the water there's always some breeze that's going to cool you down. _______________________ The Villages, Fla.: Hi, Adam! We (two couples) plan to celebrate my husband's 65th birthday by traveling to Key West via Miami and South Beach. What tips for interesting places for our age group can you give me? We want to sample the South Beach architecture and some of the night life—at least until 10 p.m.!—and enjoy all that Key West has to offer. Thanks! Tricia Adam Karlin: Hey, Tricia. Man, where to start? In Miami, take the walking tour hosted by the Miami Design Preservation League (mdpl.org, 305/672-2014). It's an excellent introduction to the basics of deco architecture and shows off some of the best buildings in South Beach as well.The MDPL is headquartered in an excellent old deco building itself at 1001 Ocean Drive, Miami Beach. For another in-depth and well-executed introduction to a lot of the design you see in Miami Beach, visit the Wolfsonian-FIU museum (305/535-1001), at the corner of 10th and Washington Ave in Miami Beach. As regards nightlife, you may want to try Taverna Opa (36 Ocean Drive, 305/673-6730), a Greek restaurant where they encourage a lot of partying of the My Big Fat Greek Wedding sort. It's touristy, but it knows its touristy and embraces that. I also really like the bar/lounge area at Circa 39, 3900 Collins Ave—it feels like (actually it is) a very hip place, but the staff here are very down to earth and wouldn't turn their noses up at two couples celebrating a 65th birthday the way some other Miami Beach bars and clubs might. Just note that Circa 39 is more mid-beach than South Beach. There's so much great stuff to see on the drive to Key West I can't begin to list it here, but please check out this article I wrote on doing an Overseas Road Trip. And then there's Key West itself. Again, we're just scratching the surface, but you guys need to take a trolley tour (trolleytours.com/key-west, 305/296-6688), see Mallory Square at sunset, visit the Secret Garden (nfsgarden.com, 305/294-0015) have a great meal (I recommend Café Sole, 1029 Southard St., Key West, 305/294-0230), browse the art galleries at the southern end of Duval St., wander around the Key West cemetery (total tropical gothic), have a beer at the Green Parrot (601 Whitehead St., 305/294-6133), which is the original eccentric Key West bar, have some fried (or "cracked") conch and fries at the Conch Town Café (801 Thomas St.)...the list goes on. I will say you may want to avoid the top end of Duval St. on weekend nights—it becomes pretty boozy, sometimes in the worst kind of way. _______________________ Staunton, Va.: We are vacationing this summer for the first time ever on Sanibel Island. We (the parents) choose Sanibel for its naturalistic atmosphere, however we have two teen daughters who might get a little bored. Any suggestions on what to see/do or where to dine? We also have two toddlers. This is why we need a vacation. LOL! Thanks for your help! Adam Karlin: Hi Staunton. If your daughters feel bored on Sanibel, you may want to take them across the bridge to Fort Myers. FM is a nice enough town, even if it does stand in contrast to the atmosphere you're trying to capture in Sanibel. You'll find all the usuals—shopping, socializing, etc.—there, and it's a half-hour to one-hour drive over the causeway from Sanibel. As for what to see and do on the island, it's pretty self-explanatory: wander around in the blissful sub-tropical nature. Swim. Go to beach. Repeat. Enjoy! _______________________ Surprise, Ariz.: We'll be traveling through the Keys in February and wanted a room in Marathon that wasn't really expensive. Any ideas? Adam Karlin: Hey, Arizona. The Anchor Inn and Siesta Motel are both good, cheapie places with a bit of old school '50s motel vibe to them. Neither one is the Ritz, but they're friendly and evocative of—forgive me the cliché—the way the Keys used to be. _______________________ Port Jefferson, N.Y.: My husband, 17-year-old daughter and I would like to travel to the Florida Keys this February (probably 2/12-2/19). Years ago, we camped and also stayed in the cabins at Bahia Honda State Park. I know the reservations are hard to come by and usually are made a year in advance. So what other budget-friendly options are there in the lower Keys? Adam Karlin: Hey, N.Y. You're right about reservations being pretty crucial, but that doesn't mean finding a camping berth is impossible. Try booking for BH state park—now. Right now! I'm fairly strongly of the opinion that camping is one of the best ways to see the Keys; there's a definite vibe to the older RV parks that speaks to a Keys way of life that is fast disappearing. You meet a lot of long term snowbirds in these types of places, and like them or not, they're all very much characters. If that doesn't work, here's a list of Lower Keys camping grounds. All of these are good spots, although Bahia Honda probably is one of the nicest camping grounds in the Keys. Sugarloaf Key is worth checking out for its comparative quiet. Although Big Pine isn't exactly a bustling island by any stretch, Sugarloaf is even more sedate, yet you're also very close to Key West should you and your family want to have some fun in town. Big Pine Key Fishing Lodge (305/872-2351) and Knight's Key campground (305/743-4343—technically in the Middle Keys) are also good options. _______________________ Virginia Beach, Va.: Swimming with the dolphins is on my bucket list and I want to make it the best experience possible. I will be in Marathon for 5 days in mid-February and camping in Naples in early February. I am aware of the 3 dolphin swims in the Keys, but wonder about the water temp and the murky winter waters. I would also like the best experience possible without spending a fortune. Should I wait or go somewhere else? Suggestions please. Adam Karlin: There are a few of you asking about Swimming with the Dolphins (SWTD) in the Keys. This is a controversial practice, and I'm providing a list of arguments for and against the activity here: Arguments For • While SWTD sites are commercial, they are also research entities devoted to learning more about their charges. • The dolphins raised on-site are legally obtained and not captured from the wild. • The dolphins are used to humans and pose a negligible danger to swimmers, especially when overseen by expert trainers. • Dolphin swim programs increase knowledge of dolphins and conservation among customers. • At places like the Dolphin Research Center, the dolphins can actually swim out of their pens into the open water but choose not to. Arguments Against • Dolphins are social creatures that require interaction which is impossible to provide in captivity. • SWTD tourism encourages the capture of wild dolphins in other parts of the world. • Dolphin behavior is never 100% predictable. Dolphins can seriously injure a human, even while playing. • SWTD encourage customers to think of dolphins as anthropomorphized "friends," rather than wild animals. • Dolphins never appreciate captivity. Those that voluntarily remain in SWTD sites do so to remain close to food. If you're still keen on doing a SWTD program, there are three to pick from, and they're all good. In my own experience I've had a good time at the Dolphin Research Center in Grassy Key, but a friend of mine said she had a wonderful time at Theater of the Sea. The other site is Dolphins Plus. They're all similarly priced—expect to pay at least $150 to get a good swim with the dolphins experience. Good luck with your decision. You may also want to try the Marathon Aqua Ranch—no dolphins here, but you do get to swim with some really big fish and the guys who run the place are very friendly. _______________________ Hortonville, Wisc.: I want to put together a perfect 5-day solo trip to the Keys in mid-February 2009. I want it all—snorkelling, eating, music, food, history, nature, and meeting single women. Got a plan for me? I don't care about fine accommodations. —Will Adam Karlin: There's also a few of you who have asked general, "What should I do in the Keys?" queries. Most people have five days to cover the islands. With that in mind, here's an itinerary you might enjoy, but this could apply to others too. Starting in the Upper Keys, visit John Pennemkamp park to snorkel, dive and see what may be the best marine park in the continental U.S. Check out the Wild Bird Rehabilitation Center, too—it's a very Keys-esque animal rescue operation that doubles as a beautiful aviary. In Islamorada, visit Higgs Beach and have a drink at Loreli, which gets pretty hopping...anytime. You may also want to check out Bob's Bunz café for arguable the best Key Lime pie (this judgment may cause fights). In Marathon, the Crane Point Museum makes an excellent stop for learning about local wildlife and plantlife. For dinner and drinks you can't go wrong with the Hurricane. In Big Pine, have a drive around Key deer reserve and make sure you get some pizza at the No Name Pub. And In Key West...well, there's just a lot to do. In general, if you want to party, stick to the upper reaches of Duval St., and if you want to soak up more culture, head for the bottom end. Higg's Beach is a nice spot for sand and sun, although be warned—the Keys don't actually have the best beaches in Florida. The Studios of Key West is good for contemporary art from new (and established) talent. There are also lots of literary festivals in Key West that always attract a good crop of writers. Oh, and seriously, don't miss the Green Parrot in Key West—in my opinion, best music and ambiance on the island. _______________________ East Greenwich, R.I.: My boyfriend and I will be traveling to the Keys in Jan. 2009 for a dive vacation. Can you suggest any budget accommodations? Adam Karlin: Hi, R.I. First, although I am a seat of my pants traveler (to a fault), I'd say anyone wanting to travel in the Keys in late December-February needs to book ahead at least a month in advance. The Keys are just too popular and too small. When it comes to budget accommodation, let me just reiterate my earlier answer to Port Jefferson, N.Y. on camping in the Keys: I'm in favor of it. Particularly when it comes to people in your situation, R.I. Otherwise you're stuck paying mid-range prices for motel/hotel rooms that, while undoubtedly cute, aren't worth the triple digits they're often quoted at. By camping you also feel closer to the incredible ecosystem that makes up the Keys, an environment that is unique not just to the U.S., but to much of the world. If you're on a diving vacation, why not camp at John Pennemkamp state park (305/451-1202, floridastateparks.org/pennekamp), which has arguably the best diving in the continental U.S.? Prices here are a bargain, too. And not to overwhelm the guys at Bahia Honda State Park, but the camping there is also excellent (bahiahondapark.com, floridastateparks.org/bahiahonda) But if you're diving, I reckon you might not be keen on camping. In that case, Looe Key Resort (diveflakeys.com) is both a pretty established diving outfit that also offers rooms. I'll admit the accommodation there is nothing out of this world—not bad, just not great, but if you're on a budget in the Keys and don't want to sleep outside, this is the risk you take. With that said, the Stone Ledge Paradise Inn (305/852-8114, stoneledgeparadiseinn.com) in Key Largo is both close to all the diving goodness in Pennekamp state park and possesses that great, tacky air of Old Florida you ironically have to search kard to find in modern Florida. _______________________ Williamstown, N.J.: I will be touring Miami and Key West with two English friends in May. We have booked a B&B in Key West, but would like some advice on Miami accommodations. We will arrive in Miami on May 6 from Key West. I need to fly home and turn in the rental car on May 8. My English friends are staying on in Miami until May 11. They will be relying on public transportation. What area of Miami is safe and offers access to transportation and is within walking distance of restaurants and some sights? Can you recommend reasonable accommodations (they each want a single room) and restaurants with local flavor? Not-to-be-missed sights? Thank you Sherry Adam Karlin: Hi, Sherry. South Beach has the most obvious attractions in Miami, and it's a very walkable district. Unfortunately, public transportation is something Miami doesn't do that well. Your friends might want to spend a few days in South Beach first; the Clay Hotel and Beachcomber are both nice, budget places (keep in mind 'budget' is a relative term in this part of the world). For eating, the 11th Street Diner and Puerto Sagua are Miami Beach classics—the first is an American diner, the second a Cuban diner. Tap-tap is a great, budget Haitian restaurant, very colorful and full of character. Osteria Del Teatro is a nice place for an Italian splurge. I've discussed many of the sites here in above queries, but to that list I'll add the Jewish Museum of Florida, the Bass Museum of Art and Española Way, all great areas for soaking up creativity amidst the deco. Your friends might enjoy visiting the Design District, which has all sort of studio space and galleries. Michael's Genuine Food and Drink is one of the best restaurants in Miami, and its right in the middle of all of the above. Finally, if they're British (and don't mind a little seediness), Churchill's pub in Little Haiti has great punk music and is a center for the British expat community in Miami. You might want to take a taxi there—the surrounding neighborhood can be a little rough. As for sights, don't miss the Loew Art Museum, the Biltmore hotel and Fairhcild Tropical Gardens, all in Coral Gables. Each one provides a nice slice of the Miami experience, from architecture to artwork to nature. _______________________ Clemson, Tex.: I don't expect any tears here for me.... I'm an airline employee trying to get my family to HNL for Christmas week. It's good to have a back-up plan in case we can't get on the plane as stand-by's. And we've thought that Florida is a good Plan B. Can you suggest a destination, that I can get to from DFW, that's warm, low-key, good for my husband (68) and son (15)? It's best if we don't have to rent a car. I've thought about Key West (visited on a cruise in Nov.) but it looks like there's some special festival that week; hotels are sky-high. My husband and son love Waikiki and Vegas; I love Maui. Adam Karlin: Hey, Clemson. All things being equal, it sounds like your family might enjoy Fort Lauderdale best. It's not as wild as Miami (it's not sedate either); the beaches are actually some of the best on the Florida Atlantic Coast; there are museums and historical houses but also parks and restaurants and bars and finally, it's fun to take the water taxis through Little Venice. With all of that said I also think Key West provides all of the above (except the beach quality), an its much more walkable besides, but as you say, rates can get very high. See some of my above answers for tips on finding budget places to stay and camp further up the Keys, keeping in mind it takes about three hours to drive the entire chain from Key Largo to Key West. _______________________ Williamsburg, Va.: We're coming with my college freshman son and his girlfriend (both under 21) for the Orange Bowl, and will be in Ft. Lauderdale before. Any suggestions of where they can go for New Year's Eve that doesn't involve alcohol? Thanks! Patrick Adam Karlin: Heh—the people at Fort Lauderdale tourism will kill me for writing this, but I never thought I'd see 'college freshman,' 'New Year's', 'Fort Lauderdale' and 'doesn't involve alcohol' in the same sentence. I think Las Olas boulevard is your best bet. There's all kinds of restaurants here where the atmosphere will be fun on NYE, and I'm sure a few will be open to minors on the big night. _______________________ Washington, D.C.: I'll be in the Keys, Miami, the Everglades, and 10,000 islands area the first two weeks of January. Where is best place to snorkel, good guest house in Key West and alternative car rental places out of Ft. Lauderdale? Any other advice for hostels in MIA? Adam Karlin: For hostels in Miami, I got a nice vibe out of Ohana Hostel (305/534-2650, 750 Collins Ave) and South Beach Hostel (thesouthbeachhostel.com, 305/534-6669, 235 Washington Ave)—both had a good crowd of international types and Americans who all seemed to be having a good time. For snorkeling, if you can get a car, go south to Biscayne National Park, which is 95 percent underwater and is on your way to the Keys. For places to stay in Key West that won't break the bank, I'd recommend either camping (see above queries) or the Caribbean House in Bahama Village. _______________________ Madison, Wisc.: My aunt, uncle, husband and I are landing in Miami and driving down to Key West. We don't land in Miami until 6 pm on a Friday night. What is the best place to stop on the drive down for a delicious "Key" cocktail/meal? Thanks! Adam Karlin: Hi, Madison. There's so many I have a hard time getting my head around it, and am growing hungry and Keys-sick at merely the thought of all the great restaurants and bars lining the Overseas Highway...mmm.... OK: in Key Largo, the Key Largo Conch House (keylargocoffeehouse.com, 305/453-4844) serves very nice 'Keys' food, often with a slightly creative, upscale twist. The restaurant itself is located in a very charming old Keys mansion. Just around the way, the Tugboat (305/453-9010; 2 Seagate Blvd.) is a more traditional, just as tasty Keys' seafood place. If you take Fl 997 instead of US 1 into the Keys (it's a slight detour that offers a bit more mangrove scenery) you can drink at Alabama Jack's, which is a very quintessential old school Keys bar. In Marathon, I'd recommend the Island Tiki Bar (305/743-4191) and the Hurricane (305/743-2200) for both drinks and food—these are two of the friendliest, funniest bars around. The Hurricane especially gets pretty raucous some nights, but I always have a good time there. Also, get a lobster reuben at the Island Fish Company (305/743-4353), a great seafood place with a lot of attitude (it's playful) that front directly onto a nice piece of marina. There's a lot more out there, but I'll let you guys do a little self-exploring—the rule of thumb is, if it's crowded and kind of worn down, it's probably very good. _______________________ Morristown, N.J.: My wife and I would like to go to Key West on a fun, romantic getaway from 4/13 to 4/18/2009. We have never been there. What is the best way to travel there and where do we stay? Adam Karlin: Hi, New Jersey. I would absolutely recommend driving the Keys from Homestead to Key West. It takes about three hours (non-stop) and I believe the route constitutes one of America's great road trips. Please see the above answers for things to do and see and places to eat along the way. _______________________ Greenwood, Ind.: Are there any shallow reefs around Miami that are decent snorkeling spots? Adam Karlin: Hey, Greenwood. I would say to get out of Miami and head a little bit south to Biscayne National Park or even further south to John Pennekamp state park—both have arguable the best snorkeling, glass bottom boat tours and diving in America outside of Hawaii. _______________________ Adam Karlin: Well, guys, that's about all the time I have. I hope you all have great Florida vacations; pick up Lonely Planet's Florida or Miami and the Keys if you need guidebooks to the area. You can find more of my work—more travel narrative than guidebook writing—at my website. Happy trails.