The Romance Edition

Amesbury, MA: I recently saw 'Casino Royale' and fell in love with the scenery from Montenegro. Could you tell me more about this country and the best places to visit? Tony Reeves: The first rule of location hunting is never believe what you see on-screen. The 'Montenegro' scenes for Casino Royale were filmed around Prague and the town of Karlovy Vary in the Czech Republic. The casino is the old spa building at Karlovy Vary, and Bond's 'Hotel Splendide' is the Grand Hotel Pupp. Even the 'Miami' scenes (the airport and the Body Worlds exhibition) are Prague - as are the interior of the 'House of Commons' and the Venetian Hotel. _______________________ Corona, CA: I plan to take my four-year-old daughter to see where one of her favorite movies (The Sound of Music) takes place (Salzberg, etc.). Where should I take her? What should we definitely see? We will be going in the late spring or mid-summer (if her school schedule doesn't allow for a spring vacation). I want something fun for a four-year-old. My aunt and uncle, who have homes in Vienna and Faulkenstein, will be escorting us. Tony Reeves: There are plenty of coach tours in Salzburg around the sites for The Sound of Music, but since it's quite a small place, you can see most of them yourself. And remember, most of the interiors were filmed in Hollywood. You'll want to see Maria's abbey, which is Nonnberg Abbey, Nonnberg Gasse. Although it is on a hill, it doesn't overlook the Old Town, as it does in the movie. The view in front of the abbey is from Winkler Terrace, on the other side of town. The 'Villa Von Trapp' is two separate houses: The front entrance (where maria gets off the bus) is Schloss Frohnburg, a music school, on Hellbrunner Allee, south of the Old Town, while the rear, with the lakeside terrace, is Schloss Leopoldskron, a private college which you can see across Leopoldskriner Teich, the lake. The gazebo ('Sixteen Going On Seventeen') used to be here, too. But there was such a problem with fans trespassing to see it that it's been moved to the grounds of Schloss Hellbrun. The 'Do-Re-Mi- steps can be found in the Mirabell Gardens in the centre of town. Out of town, the wedding was filmed in the cathedral at Mondsee, about 15 miles east of Salzburg; and the picnic is at Werfen, a beautiful village set against a stunning mountan backdrop, which is about half-an-hour south of Salzburg by train. You'll recognise most of the other locations around the town - almost completely unchanged. _______________________ Cambridgeshire, England: My husband and I, film buffs, will be in NYC next week--Dec. 16, 17th and 19th. It would be a thrill to be near a movie set in the Big Apple. Do you know of any? Thank you Tony Reeves: Yikes! New York - there are hundreds of locations. The films of Woody Allen and Martin Scorsese spring to mind. Try John's Pizza on Blleecker Street in Greenwich Village (seen in Manhattan - Woody Allen claims it's the best pizza in New York), or the view of the Queensboro Bridge from the end of 59th Street East (though there's no bench!). Take a look a the art deco lobby of the Edison Hotel, 228 West 47th Street, which you might recognise from The Godfather and Bullets Over Broadway. St Patrick's Cathedral on Mulberry Street is where Michael Corleone bcomes The Godfather toward the end of the film. Joe' Pizza on Bleecker Street is where Peter parker lost his job in Spider-Man 2, and the Moondance Diner, 80 Sixth Avenue, is where Mary Jane worked. Check out the Outer Boroughs, too - Saturday Night Fever in Bay Ridge, Brooklyn, or the Bronx Botanical Gardens seen in The Age of Innocence. You can see the Corleone compound on Longfellow Road, Staten Island. I could go on... _______________________ Sarasota, FL: Where was the film "Chocolat" with Johnny Depp filmed? The scenery and the town were gorgeous. Thanks, Carol Tony Reeves: The village is Flavigny-sur-Zzerain, in Burgundy, about a one-hour drive from Dijon. _______________________ Pinnacle, NC: In "Casino Royale," is the villa in the last scene on Lake Como? Very breathtaking. Is it privatly owned? If not, do they rent rooms? Tony Reeves: Mr White's villa at the end of the movie is Villa La Gaeta at San Siro, on the west coast of Lake Como. I don't think it's a hotel, but there are several in the vicinity. Incidentally, the 'hospital' where Bond recovers is another lake Como villa, about 10 miles to the south near Lenno. It's Villa Balbianello, which was also the Lake Retreat for Annakin and padme in Attack of the Clones, and one of the most breathtaking locations I've visited. You might also bump into George Clooney in the local supermarket, as his villa is not too far away! _______________________ Oakland, CA: What is the location of "Everything is Illuminated," the film about Trachimbrod by Liev Schrieber? Tony Reeves: It's set in the Ukraine but the film, like so many these days, was made around Prague in the Czech Republic. _______________________ Miami, FL: Could you tell me anyting about the locations of the sweeping landscapes seen in "Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon," "Hero," and "House of Flying Daggers"? Thanks! Tony Reeves: The Crouching Tiger desertscapes are the Gobi Desert in Xinjiang Province. The bamboo forest in Zhejiang Province, southern China. The stately home and courtyard were a set at the Beijing Stdios. For Hero, the attack on the calligraphy chool was filmed at Dangjin Mountain in Akesai, near old Dunhuang City, in northwest China, toward Mongolia. The amazing, wind-blasted rock formations, called 'yadan' are here too. The sword fight above the lake is at Jiu Zhai Gou ('Nine Villages Valley'), a popular tourist destination about 12 hours by bus from Chengdu. The lake itself is Jian ZhuHai ('Cold bamboo Sea'). Just to the south, where two valleys merge into Shuzheng Gully, you can see the waterfall, at which Broken Sword and Flying Snow meet in the 'green' sequence. It's the 98-feet-high Nuorilang Falls ('nuorilang' is "magnificent and splendid" in the Tibetan language). More scenes filmed at the yellow grassy marshland near another lake, Chang Hai (Long Sea). The elegaic fight between Flying Snow (Maggie Cheung) and Moon (Zhang Ziyi) among fluttering autumnal leaves, is an ancient oak grove in Inner Mongolia. Timing was everything: an employee, stationed out in Mongolia, called the director the moment the leaves turned a perfect shade of gold. Most of the House of Flying Daggers was shot near Lviv, western Ukraine, a location previously used for Jackie Chan's First Strike. Sets were built at Yongchuan, Sichun Province, in the bamboo forests of Tea Mountain and Bamboo Sea Scenery Park, near the city of Chongqing. To visit China's 120-square km park, the largest primaeval bamboo park in the country, you take a two-hour flight from Shanghai to Chengdu, from where there's a bus trip (approximately five hours) to the Bamboo Sea. There's the unique Bamboo Museum, and and a bamboo restaurant featuring dishes based on the local speciality. Interiors, including the 'Peony Pavilion' and the abandoned Buddhist temple in the bamboo forest, lensed in Beijing Film Studio (where films such as Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon and Kill Bill [qv] were previously filmed). _______________________ Tony Reeves: Well, thanks for those questions. I hope they helped your travel plans. This is Tony Reeves, author of The Worldwide Guide to Movie Locations, signing off. _______________________

We asked for your favorite places to shop in New York City, and you sent in a lot of great responses. Our five winners will receive a Streetwise Map Pack of Manhattan, which consists of seven laminated accordion-fold maps with information on attractions, museums, hotels, parks, and more. In addition to a map of Manhattan, the pack includes an address finder and maps of the borough's most prominent neighborhoods (Midtown, Greenwich Village), the subway and bus systems, and Central Park. For more great shopping tips, read a Q&A with Pamela Keech, author of The Curious Shopper's Guide to New York City. From flowers to pickles to vintage signs, Keech shares her secrets on where to find one-of-a-kind holiday buys. Thanks for all of your responses, and here are the winning entries: I just LOVE to shop in the Village--all of the quirky, quaint little shops are awesome. Take the 1 subway line to Christopher Street/Sheridan Square, get off and look around, and start wandering. The streets in the Village are not the typical Manhattan grid pattern, which makes wandering even more fun. Be sure to check out Mxyplyzyk for the cook who has everything. --Melinda, London, Ohio If you don't have a lot of time and like to save money, Century 21 has it all. This discount department store has something for everyone. When we were there last spring, my daughters got great deals on clothes while I shopped for linens and gifts. When we were all done we even got a great deal on a suitcase to take all our bargains home in! --Lou Ann Jensen, Arlington, S.D. New York Public Library: They have a great gift shop with books on New York City and their current special exhibit, great children's book-related gifts, and of course lots of NYPL lion memorabilia. The best souvenir there is free and takes only 10 to 20 minutes: Present a photo ID to apply for your own NY Public Library card, with your photo on it. --Laurie DeLand, Silver Spring, Md. The several Housing Works Thrift stores. You never know what wonderful treasures you will find. --Elise Mandel, Lexington. Ky. Surma Ukrainian gift shop on East 7th Street. They carry unique embroidered blouses and breathtaking decorated eggs. --Eileen Lipston, Kirkland, Wash.

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UTAH POWDER MOUNTAIN Elevation: 8,900 feet Vertical drop: 2,005 feet Skiable terrain: 5,500 acres Annual snowfall: 500 inches Lift ticket: $53 or less Info: 801/745-3772, powdermountain.com With monster snowfalls, a remarkable lack of trees, and slopes that are consistently steep but not harrowing, Powder was created for wide skis. Less than half of the trails are groomed, and it's not unusual to be making turns in untouched powder a week after a dump. For the poor man's version of heli-skiing, a snowcat that tows skiers up to the top of remote bowls can't be beat ($10 per run, in addition to a lift ticket). Even with all the terrain and outstanding snow, Powder remains under the radar compared to hotter resorts, such as Park City, Snowbird, or nearby Snowbasin (which figured prominently in the Salt Lake City Olympics). Down below Powder is gorgeous Ogden Valley. It's only a matter of time before strip malls and subdivisions fill it up, but for now the valley is mostly open land. How to get there Powder Mountain is a straightforward, 55-mile drive north of the Salt Lake airport. You'll pass through Eden, so save a few bucks on your lift ticket by buying it at the Valley Market (801/745-4000). Where to stay The Red Moose Lodge is a modern take on a vintage ski lodge, with vaulted ceilings, deep leather sofas, and a pool table in a loft. Rooms are big, and it's less than 15 minutes from the mountain (2547 N. Valley Junction Dr., Eden, 877/745-0333, theredmooselodge.com, from $89). Moreover, it's just down the street from Eats of Eden, a fantastic little restaurant with buffalo burgers and sandwiches on homemade bread (2595 N. Hwy. 162, 801/745-8618). Another good spot for a bite: The Oaks, which opened in 1907 and has a menu that always features Ogden's own Farr's ice cream (750 Ogden Canyon, 801/394-2421). Apres-ski Built in 1879, the Shooting Star Saloon survived Prohibition by running a whiskey distillery in the basement. Today, it's the oldest bar in Utah and serves only beer. Drink specials are illegal in Utah, but who needs happy hour when a cold one costs only $1.25? After a long day at the mountain, see if you can survive the $6 Star Burger, a grilled Polish sausage sandwiched between two beef patties (7350 E. 200 South, Huntsville, 801/745-2002). Local's tip "The place is huge and can be hard to figure out," says Amy Wicks, who was born and raised in the area and skis at least twice a week. "I definitely recommend a free guided tour with a host to take you out and show you the layout. There's a lot you might miss if all you did was look up at the mountain from the lodge." (To hook up with a host, contact Powder Mountain.) COLORADO WOLF CREEK Elevation: 11,904 feet Vertical drop: 1,604 feet Skiable terrain: 1,600 acres Annual snowfall: 465 inches Lift ticket: $48 Info: 970/264-5639, wolfcreekski.com Snow, snow, and more snow. Wolf Creek gets the most in Colorado, and the views on the traverse to Alberta Peak rival those at any resort in the Rockies. Most runs are short--the mountain's a lot wider than it is high--and because Wolf Creek is so far removed from anything resembling a city, there's plenty of snow for everyone. People are as laid-back and unpretentious as they come; it's not uncommon to see someone lugging in a Crock-Pot for a picnic in the lodge. The cafeteria sells PB&J sandwiches for $1.50 and daily specials, like a cheesesteak with fries and a dessert for $7. The atmosphere may change if Clear Channel Communications magnate Red McCombs's plans for a 287-acre development at the base of the Alberta lift are realized. Locals are fighting the proposed development, which could destroy a six-mile loop for cross-country skiers and their dogs. How to get there The nearest airports to Wolf Creek are in Durango and Alamosa, each about an hour from the mountain. It's usually much cheaper to fly into Albuquerque (four-and-a-half hours by car) or Denver (six hours), if you can handle the drive. Where to stay The High Country Lodge, just outside Pagosa Springs on the west side of Wolf Creek Pass, rents modern log cabins with full kitchens and heated floors, and each unit comes with a fireplace or potbellied stove. Hot breakfast in the lodge is included (3821 E. Hwy. 160, 800/862-3707, highcountrylodge.com, lodge room from $90, cabin from $120). Apres-ski The first restaurant on the way from the mountain to Pagosa Springs is JJ's Riverwalk Restaurant & Pub, a favorite for its happy hour (4 p.m.--6 p.m.), when beers on tap are half-price, well drinks are $1 off, and appetizers are discounted 25 percent (356 E. Hwy. 160, Pagosa Springs, 970/264-9100). Local's tip Avoid spring break if at all possible," says David Pryce, a sales staffer at Doc's Outdoor Sports in South Fork, who skis at Wolf Creek around twice a week. "That's the middle to the end of March, when all the high schools and universities are out, and one of the few times the mountain is crowded." CALIFORNIA HOMEWOOD Elevation: 7,880 feet Vertical drop: 1,650 feet Skiable terrain: 1,260 acres Annual snowfall: 450 inches Lift ticket: $58 or less Info: 530/525-2992, skihomewood.com Stellar views of Lake Tahoe, 300 days of sun per year, and a totally hassle-free experience: It's no wonder the resort motto is "Smile, You're at Homewood." Skiers pull off Route 89 directly into Homewood's parking lot, and within 15 minutes find themselves halfway up the Madden Triple Chair. About 65 percent of the terrain is beginner and intermediate, making it one of Tahoe's best places to learn to ski or ride. Experts get theirs, too, with tree skiing in the Hobbit Land area, rails and jumps in Shredwood Forest Terrain Park, and the steep chutes of Quail Face. Local hotshots head to Homewood after a big snowfall because they know they'll find stashes of powder long after Tahoe's more famous (and more crowded) resorts are tracked out. But it's the lake views that keep people coming back. For the best (and longest) look, take Rainbow Ridge from the summit to Cradle, then head down the Face. It makes for a great last run of the day. How to get there Homewood is six miles south of Tahoe City. By car, it's about an hour from Reno, two hours from Sacramento, and a little more than three hours from San Francisco. Where to stay Dick and Ulli White rent 16 cheerful red cabins, some with gas fireplaces and claw-foot bathtubs, at Tahoma Meadows B&B Cottages, just south of the mountain. Two-person cottages include breakfast in the B&B's common room, while larger "kitchen" cabins are perfect for families (6821 W. Lake Blvd., Tahoma, 866/525-1553, tahomameadows.com, from $109). Apres-ski Sunnyside, about four miles north of Homewood, is a beautiful arts and crafts-style building with a wide deck overlooking the lake. The bar fills up on Wednesdays throughout the ski season for the half-price ($3) fish tacos--beer-battered snapper, shredded cabbage, and ranch dressing in a soft flour tortilla (1850 W. Lake Blvd., Tahoe City, 800/822-2754). Local's tip "Homewood hasn't shut down its chairlifts because of high wind in more than two decades," says Christopher Taylor, a 20-year-old carpenter originally from Manchester, Vt., who moved to the Tahoe area two years ago. "There aren't any detachable quads that shut down when it's storming, and because of the tree coverage, you can get fresh powder for weeks after." MONTANA LOST TRAIL Elevation: 8,200 feet Vertical drop: 1,800 feet Skiable terrain: 900 acres Annual snowfall: 300 inches Lift ticket: $31 or less Info: 406/821-3211, losttrail.com "Hey, it's Lost Trail not Vail," the locals like to joke. As if there might be confusion. At Lost Trail, deep in the Bitterroot Forest, on the continental divide near the Montana-Idaho border, the slow, two-seater chairlifts are powered by generators. Few runs are supersteep, and the people are unfailingly friendly, making Lost Trail a wonderful family mountain. It feels like an old-fashioned ski club, where no one bothers with lockers, and moms send kids off on their own without thinking twice. And $31 lift tickets? You know you're not in Vail. How to get there From Missoula, Lost Trail is a two-hour drive, or about four hours from the Idaho Falls Airport by car. The two nearest towns--Salmon, Idaho, and Conner, Mont.--are each about 20 minutes from the lifts. Where to stay How's this for a ski report? First thing in the morning, look out the window from the 100 Acre Wood B&B, a timber lodge outside Salmon that, despite the name, sits on a 27-acre property. If there's a herd of 200 elk grazing, a whole lot of snow fell in the high country the previous night. The elk move down to the valley when the snow is too deep (2356 Hwy. 93, Salmon, 208/865-2165, 100acrewoodresort.com, from $90 with breakfast). Apres-ski The Rocky Knob Lodge was built by loggers in the 1940s in exchange for "favors" from the property's owner, a member of the oldest profession. On the Montana side 20 minutes from Lost Trail, the former brothel now serves $2.25 cocktails and excellent food--the smoked ribs ($18.95) in particular (6065 Hwy. 93, Conner, 406/821-3520). Local's tip "Go on a Thursday or Friday for good powder," says Chase Cooper, a wood-flooring contractor in Victor, Mont., who started skiing at Lost Trail when he was 10 and manages to hit the slopes about 20 times a year. "The mountain is closed Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday; so when Thursday comes, the snow's fantastic. And since it's not the weekend yet, there's also hardly anyone there, and you can get on lifts right away without having to wait." MONTANA BRIDGER BOWL Elevation: 8,100 feet Vertical drop: 2,000 feet Skiable terrain: 1,500 acres Annual snowfall: 350 inches Lift ticket: $43 or less Info: 800/223-9609, bridgerbowl.com Twenty minutes from downtown Bozeman and long a favorite excuse for Montana State students to ditch class, Bridger Bowl stretches along a wide ridge, with easy terrain at the bottom and in the Apron area, and hairy steeps and great powder-filled bowls up at the top. The nonprofit resort marked its 50th anniversary with the 2004/2005 season. How to get there Drive 16 miles north from Bozeman, which has an airport served by Delta, Horizon, Northwest, and United. Where to stay Right on Main Street in Bozeman, the Lewis & Clark Motel is a quirky gem, with a roadside neon sign depicting the eponymous explorers and casino poker in the lobby. Down in the basement, there's a swimming pool, as well as a tiny pond stocked with rainbow trout (824 W. Main St., 800/332-7666, lewisandclarkmotel.net, from $58). Local's tip "On a powder day, get there early," says Keven Wiesner, owner of the Ph.D. Skis shop in Bozeman, who puts in about 80 days per year at Bridger Bowl. "Leave at 7 o'clock from town. If it's deep powder, there'll be a ton of people waiting. Good skiers should get over to the Ridge area. It's a great experience, and the snow is twice as deep." VERMONT MAGIC MOUNTAIN Elevation: 3,200 feet Vertical drop: 1,700 feet Skiable terrain: 135 acres Annual snowfall: 180 inches Lift ticket: $56 or less Info: 802/824-5645, magicmtn.com After Magic shut down in 1991, heartbroken locals sold "Save the Magic" T-shirts to raise money for its rebirth. The mountain reopened in 1997, and while it doesn't have the fancy lifts, restaurants, and snowmaking equipment of nearby resorts, it does feature some of the steepest trails in southern Vermont--and a whole lot of heart. One thing it almost never has is crowds, even on the weekends. This season, lift tickets for all ages cost only $39 Monday through Friday (non-holiday). How to get there Magic is about three hours by car from Boston, or four hours from New York City. Where to stay The Swiss Inn rents standard motel rooms with a full breakfast included, and patrons can always find fondue on the restaurant's menu (249 Rte. 11, Londonderry, 800/847-9477, swissinn.com, from $79). Local's tip "The west side has a lot of difficult terrain," says Marlene Williams, an administrative assistant for Green Mountain Beverage. She and her husband Jim have lived within walking distance of the lifts since 1978 and ski four or five days a week. "If we have good snow, Talisman is a great run. It's really challenging. My husband's favorite trail is Sorcerer, which is steeper and has a lot of bumps." IDAHO BOGUS BASIN Elevation: 7,600 feet Vertical drop: 1,800 feet Skiable terrain: 2,600 acres Annual snowfall: 250 inches Lift ticket: $46 or less Info: 800/367-4397, bogusbasin.com A twisting, 16-mile drive north of Boise, the nonprofit Basin is the pride and joy of locals. Sun Valley gets all the attention as Idaho's premier resort; the fact is, the blue-collar Bogus Basin has more acreage and receives more snow. Its name comes from a legendary gold swindle in the 1880s, but the slopes are anything but bogus. For a challenging mix of tree skiing, bowls, and steep faces, head right to the expansive backside of the mountain. How to get there Downtown Boise's Harrison Boulevard turns into Bogus Basin Road, which ascends about 3,000 vertical feet in a series of switchbacks, then dead-ends at the resort. Caldwell Transportation runs a bus service to the mountain every day, with pickups all over town (208/459-6612 or 800/727-9925, ctcbus.com, $12 round trip). Where to stay At the mountaintop Pioneer Condominiums, guests ski down to the lifts (800/367-4397, pioneercondos.com, from $129). Local's tip "Experts have got to make a lap through the Waterfall and the Triangle," says Charles Butrick, leader of the Bogus Basin Ski Patrol. "They're not really on the map, but are known areas nonetheless. Have a local show you the way. Also, don't miss beers in the Bogus Creek Lodge, where ski bums congregate to lie about all the crazy runs they supposedly took." WASHINGTON 49 NORTH Elevation: 5,774 feet Vertical drop: 1,900 feet Skiable terrain: 2,325 acres Annual snowfall: 300 inches Lift ticket: $43 or less Info: 866/376-4949, ski49n.com Unabashedly retro, with lifts that aren't remotely high-speed, 49 North offers 70 percent beginner and intermediate terrain. For those who refuse to take it easy, there's backcountry skiing in the East Basin, accessible by a fairly mild traverse from the peak. Taco Time, a local restaurant chain, hands out two-for-one lift ticket vouchers on Tuesdays, no purchase necessary. Also, skiing is totally free for everyone during the last week of the season (April 7-13). Just show up and ask for a lift ticket. How to get there From Spokane, drive for about an hour on Hwy. 395 north. With little else up there, the mountain is hard to miss. Local's tip "If you're looking for bumps, do Klondike," says Daniel Voltz, who owns the Norski Conoco gas station in Chewelah and finds a way to ski 50 to 60 days a year. "If you're looking for fast cruisers, ski Mahre's Gold, named after the gold-medal winner of the slalom in the 1984 Olympics." OREGON WILLAMETTE PASS Elevation: 6,683 feet Vertical drop: 1,563 feet Skiable terrain: 555 acres Annual snowfall: 400 inches Lift ticket: $44 or less Info: 541/345-7669, willamettepass.com What Willamette Pass lacks in convenience--it's a 90-minute drive southeast of Eugene--is made up for with a fun mix of tree skiing and cruising runs, along with a peaceful setting amid lakes and hundreds of miles of national forest. It's closed Monday through Wednesday, which means untracked snow on Thursday! How to get there Willamette Pass is right off of Hwy. 58 deep in the thickly forested Cascade Mountains, and there's not much in the way of civilization on the drive from Eugene. Skiers don't have to drive, though: A bus service called the Willamette Pass Express departs from downtown Eugene Thursday through Sunday at 7:15 a.m. (541/345-7669, $14 round trip). Where to stay Seven miles from the lifts, the Willamette Pass Inn has standard rooms and cabins, all with kitchens and most with fireplaces (Mile 69, Highway 58, 541/433-2211, from $81). Local's tip "Get hot cocoa at the Crescent Lake Lodge & Resort (Hwy. 58, 541/433-2505, crescentlakeresort.com), which overlooks Crescent Lake," says Svein Berg, manager of Berg's Ski & Snowboard Shop, a third-generation family business in Eugene. "There's an old stone fireplace where you can sit back and check out the view. It's fabulous." VERMONT BURKE Elevation: 3,267 feet Vertical drop: 2,000 feet Skiable terrain: 250 acres Annual snowfall: 250 inches Lift ticket: $56 or less Info: 802/626-3322, skiburke.com Burke sticks to the basics that drew serious skiers to Vermont two generations ago, with dozens of fast, narrow runs that call for sharp edges and big, swooping turns. The challenging slopes hold some of the responsibility for getting five alums of the Burke Mountain Academy--a ski-in, ski-out high school, if you can believe such a thing--to the Olympics in 2002. A mile from the lifts is the village of East Burke, little more than a gas station, a church, and a couple of restaurants and shops. The century-old Bailey's & Burke earns its billing as a general store, selling bottles of wine, sandwiches, cereal, fresh muffins and cookies, pots and pans, toys, books, locally made jerky, hot pizza, and dog food (466 Rte. 114, East Burke, 802/626-9250). Upstairs is the office for the Kingdom Trails system: 110 miles of interconnected paths that are perfect for mountain bikers in summer and cross-country skiers and snowshoers in winter (802/626-0737, kingdomtrails.org, day pass $10). The general store also sells Starbucks coffee, and the mountain did what seems like sacrilege to some old-timers, replacing its classic, superslow main lift with a high-speed quad in summer 2005. Coincidentally, lift-ticket prices were boosted $3. But for the most part Burke's low-key atmosphere and remote location--up in Vermont's Northeast Kingdom, 40 minutes from the Canadian border--have kept the crowds and corporate interests away. How to get there Burke is seven miles off of I-91, three hours from Boston, six hours from New York City, and within two hours of the nearest airport, in Burlington, along with more skiing at Stowe, Smugglers' Notch, and Jay Peak. Apres-ski In a renovated barn behind Bailey's & Burke, the Pub Outback serves burgers, meat loaf, and nachos, as well as locally brewed Trout River for $3.50 a pint (482 Rte. 114, East Burke, 802/626-1188, thepuboutback.com). Local's tip "Throw an extra scarf in your jacket just for the chairlift ride up to the top," says Charlie Hepburn, a high school student and ski racer in nearby Littleton, N.H. "The trees provide good cover from the wind when you're cruising down the mountain, but on the lifts you're totally exposed to the cold."