The Budget Charms of Edinburgh

In our May issue, we published a list of 50 Hawaiian B&Bs, making the point that generic hotels are not the only lodging option in the fiftieth state. But why be cooped up in a single room when you can have an entire house? Island vacation rentals are another low-cost alternative, with fully equipped condominiums from $330 a week, roomy cottages from $350, and complete homes from $525. And we're talking amenities such as Jacuzzis and tennis courts, with settings sometimes yards away from a beach or tropical rain forest. That's what you'll find in the following list of rental bargains on Hawaii's four main islands. You may never stay in a claustrophobic hotel room again. Beyond the bargain rentals listed below, search such online directories as Unique Hawaiian Experiences, Affordable Paradise, Goin2Travel Vacation Rentals, or A1 Vacation Rentals. Keep in mind that rates tend to require at least a few nights' stay, fluctuate between summer and winter (most low rates listed here are for summer), and don't include taxes or cleaning fees. Costs for extra persons are usually reasonable -- as low as $10 per night. OAHU Aloha Beach Vacation Rentals (888/259-5023, vacationrentalshawaii.com) offer two separate homes, of which our favorite is a simple two-bedroom, two-story structure in Waimanalo on Oahu's eastern coast, with a coconut-tree-filled garden, a 12-person Jacuzzi, and a large kitchen. Rates start at $623 per week. Aloha Waikiki Vacation Condos (800/655-6055, waikiki-condos.com) also rent out a number of different digs -- studio apartments in high-rises scattered throughout Waikiki, for $330 a week; one-bedrooms (sleeping four) for $623 a week. All accommodations are within walking distance of the beach. Beachside Bungalows (877/640-0990, beachsidebungalows.com) offer a choice of six rentals, from one-bedroom, one-baths starting at $695 per week to two-bedroom, two-baths starting at $850. Their best feature is location: only one block from gorgeous Kailua Beach on the eastern coast. All rentals include the use of snorkels, fins, Boogie boards, and kayaks. Nalo Winds Vacation Rental House (866/625-6946, a1vacations.com/nalowinds/1) is a three-bedroom, three-bath home that sleeps up to eight and is just five houses away from wide Waimanalo Beach; it's especially suitable for families, since the house comes chockablock with extras like a crib, toys, bikes, snorkel gear, and Boogie boards. Weekly rates from $525 per couple. MAUI Aloha Maui Cottages (808/572-0298, bbonline.com/hi/alohamaui) are four detached buildings on the edge of a rain forest (ask a neighbor to take you on a hike or horseback ride through it) and also near hidden pools and waterfalls. A wood-burning sauna and a hot tub are on the property; showers flow with soft, collected rainwater; all in all, the experience is like that of Robinson Crusoe in paradise. From $350 per week. Andrea's Maui Oceanfront Condos (800/289-1522, mauicondos.com) are run by 23-year Maui resident Andrea, who happily rents out (with her daughter Jill) modern, large, and roomy one- and two-bedroom condos in the popular Kihei area starting at $693 a week. A bonus: They can supply you with goodies like free snorkel rentals, two-for-one dinner coupons, drink specials, and discounts for golf and local attractions. Haiku Getaway (800/680-4946, vacationrentalmaui.com) offers three out-of-the-way rentals (two rooms and a two-bedroom cottage) in verdant Haiku on the north shore. The Tangerine Room starts at $455 a week; you can rent the entire cottage for $700 a week. Hookipa Hale (808/575-9357, hookipahale.com) sits on two secluded green acres on Maui's north shore and includes three colorful rooms in one house and a modern, island-style two-bedroom rental cottage as well. From $350 per week for two in the main house, $630 for the cottage. Jack's Maui Vista Condo (800/800-8608, vacationrentalsonline.com/vr/hi/ma/hima02/hima02.htm) is a one-bedroom rental in a spiffy, modern condo complex in Kihei, with tennis courts, a large pool, and cable TV. It starts at $455 per week, but if it's already been booked for the time of your visit, Jack will help you find other vacation rentals in the area. BIG ISLAND Aloha Vacation Cottages (877/875-1722, alohacottages.net) are a fine option for staying on the sunny Kohala Coast, home to many large, elegant resorts. The kitchen-equipped rentals -- a one-bedroom, one-bath guesthouse and a studio cottage -- start at $560 per week. There's free wireless Internet access, and, for an extra charge, on-site therapeutic massages. Kate's Volcano Cottage (877/967-7990, volcanoplaces.com/kates/kates.htm) is a cool, clean studio featuring a lot of wood in the misty Volcano area of the island, complete with kitchen and a 160-square-foot covered deck. Weekly rates start at $570; two other larger rentals in Volcano run a little more. Rainbow Dreams Cottage (415/824-7062, rainbowdreamscottage.com) is a lovely, secluded, oceanfront two-bedroom house with a wraparound lanai and lots of windows and privacy, right alongside dramatic black-rock cliffs in the lush Puna area. From $600 per week. Kuaiwi Farm (808/328-8888, kuaiwifarm.com/rental.html) is on an organic coffee farm 2,000 feet up the slopes of Mauna Loa in South Kona. The one-bedroom condo comes with French doors, private deck, tropical fruit, and complimentary coffee -- grown right on the farm. If that doesn't whet your appetite, how do rates starting at $330 a week sound? Hale Ono (877/924-7464, interpac.net/~waipiohi) is at the edge of the dramatic Waipio Valley, rich in history and greenery, and next to 40 acres of pastureland. The one-bedroom rental has a full kitchen, living room, and lanai, all starting at $510 a week. KAUAI Annie's Condos and Studios (800/481-4991, anniescondoskauai.com) are right on the Princeville golf course, a 10-minute walk to Anini Beach and come with fully equipped kitchens and pool access. Rates start at $435 a week. Aloha Estates at Kalaheo Plantation (808/332-7812, kalaheo-plantation.com) is a renovated, plantation-style house from the 1920s with six suites that can be rented out individually or together (the house sleeps a maximum of 12 adults and 4 children), many with full kitchens. Rooms start at just $299 per week. Condo Bob's Princeville Vacation Rentals (925/820-3253, condobob.com) consist of 13 condos at the Cliffs Resort and the Sandpiper Village Complex in the beach-rich area of the island's north shore (where South Pacific was filmed), none more than $699 per week. Studios go for as low as $299 a week. Poipu Plantation Resort (800/634-0263, poipubeach.com) offers cheery cottage apartments with hardwood floors, rattan furniture, lanais, ocean views, full kitchens, and gardens; one-bedroom units start at $698 a week. Spacious Poipu Beach, one of the best on the island, is a quick hop away.

Perhaps you'd love to take a cruise--a week at sea with nothing to do but have fun. Then again, it might be nice for a few days just to veg on the beach--not just any beach, but Waikiki, sipping a mai tai under the palm trees. OK, do you'd like to do both--but not pay too much for either...oh, and get some cheap airfare thrown in to cover it all. Would you believe it actually can be done? United Airlines has a branch of the frequent flier program called Cruise4Miles (888-666-8120, cruise4miles.com/ )--you can earn miles by buying cruises, or redeem airlines miles earned for a cruise. Anyone who signs up for the frequent flyer program (which is free) can get in on these deals. The logistical (and economic) problem with most cruises is that airfare is rarely included in the base price, and can often be pretty expensive. Same goes for the land portion of your trip, by which I mean landlubbing lodgings. Most folks arrive in the port of embarkation a day or two before the ship sets sail, and/or sometimes choose not to return home until the day after the cruise puts into port, which means you're stuck finding a night's hotel accommodations on either end of your cruise. Well, with a cruise shop run by an airline, one that is also adept at putting together air/hotel packages, that problem is niftily solved. Everything but the kitchen sink And boy, how niftily. Rather than charge everyone from each gateway a different rate, the base price--which covers roundtrip airfare, the seven-day cruise, and two nights lodging in Honolulu before or after the trip--is $1,399 from dozens of cities on the East Coast, Midwest, and Southwest. (That in of itself is a bit unusual--a cheap Hawaii deal not from the West Coast). The list of possible departure cities includes Atlanta, Albuquerque, Boston, Baltimore, Chicago, Colorado Springs, Dallas/Ft. Worth, Grand Rapids, Houston, Kansas City, Las Vegas, Memphis, Miami, Milwaukee, Orlando, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, Newark, New York (LaGuardia), Omaha, Philadelphia, Tampa, and Washington, DC. The ship sails pretty much weekly from Sept 14 through Jan 4, but the cheapest rate--that $1,399--is available on the following sail dates: Oct 26, Nov 16, Dec 7, Dec 14, and Jan 4. You pick which end of the cruise you want to spend your two free nights in Honolulu at the Sheraton Princess Kaiulani (princess-kaiulani.com/) or a similar property. (Sadly, you cannot split them up for one before and one after. Ah, well.) The cruise itself aboard the Norwegian Star (ncl.com/ ) has restaurants, 14 bars and lounges, swimming pool and gym, etc.--lasts seven days. You leave Honolulu at 8pm to arrive at Hilo by 6am. You have seven hours to enjoy the Big Island before steaming off again at 1pm to spend a day and a half at sea en route to a 9am docking just across the International Date Line on Fanning Island in the Republic of Kiribati (one island up from Christmas Island; a silly US law forces foreign-flagged ships to hit at least one foreign port before returning to US soil). At 3pm it's time to head back Hawaii-way, arriving 46 hours later at Kahului on Maui, where you hang for the entire afternoon. At 10pm you set of again to steam overnight toward Nawiliwili, where you arrive at 8am for an eight-hour day on Kauai. Then at 4pm it's back on the boat for the final leg back to Honolulu, where you get in at 7am. Once again, go to Cruise4Miles (888-666-8120, cruise4miles.com/) to learn more about this offer.

The Big Island of Hawaii -- why go there? As a former resident of the island, I can tell you it's the closest thing to the Hawaii of old and the Hawaii of your dreams. It's the very opposite of urban, with small rural towns occupied by relaxed, kindly, slow-paced people who savor the tradition of "aloha," and with far fewer high-rise hotels or swarms of tourists than its neighbor islands. More importantly, it is home to the longest volcanic eruption in recorded history (since 1983) at the Pu'u O'o Vent. The burgeoning landmass contains a dozen or so distinct microclimates, and is topped by two 13,000-foot-plus volcanoes, which are often snowcapped in the winter. You'll find no other island in the chain as wild or extreme. How best to enjoy it? On a road trip. The Big Island is nearly the size of Connecticut and is ringed by a long loop highway, lending itself to old-fashioned exploration by car. Since the complete route is well over 300 miles long, you'll want to break up the trip into at least four overnights in different regions, using the hotels listed here as bases for exploring. Start in sunny Kona I suggest beginning your drive on the western coast in desert-like Kona, and heading counter-clockwise around the entire island. Kailua-Kona, 15 minutes south of the airport, is a peaceful, arid town flanked by hardened lava flows. Spend your first night here. Along Kailua-Kona's main street, Ali'i Drive, is the first Christian church built in Hawaii (out of lava rock, no less), as well as the Hulihe'e Palace (admission $5), featuring koa wood furniture, historical photographs, and items belonging to the Hawaiian royalty who resided there. The rest of the town is home to quaint shops and overpriced eateries. To avoid the latter, nip into the very local Ocean View Inn (75-5683 Ali'i Drive, 808/329-9998), with an enormous menu of Hawaiian, Chinese, and American dishes -- reflecting the diverse make-up of the island. The atmosphere is old-fashioned coffee shop, and huge breakfasts hover around $5, while lunches and dinners are only $6 to $11. A great outdoor cafe is Huggo's on the Rocks (75-5828 Kahakai Road, 808/329-1493), where you munch on meal-size pupus (appetizers) like Thai curry pizza for $9.95, or large Caesar salads for $8.95 while taking in the magnificent Kona sunset and listening to the free live Hawaiian music. Kona coffee, grown in the uniquely rich volcanic soil, is known the world over. Be sure to drive up Highway 180 in the green hills above Kailua-Kona to the historic town of Holualoa, where you can view coffee being grown and roasted at the private farm of Kona Pride Coffee (808/327-1488). Its price of $18 a pound is well under the $25 charged by other, more commercial farms. Lodging for your first night? In Kailua-Kona, the best budget option is just south of town at the Kona Tiki Hotel (75-5968 Ali'i Drive, 808/329-1425), with prices of about $59 for a double. Although over 50 years old, it's well kept; all 15 rooms front the ocean, have balconies, and there's a swimming pool above the pounding surf. Another reasonable option is the Royal Kona Resort (75-5852 Ali'i Drive, 808/329-3111), with three sloping towers right on the ocean, all rooms with balconies, and a great authentic luau right on the ocean to boot. Doubles run approximately $89. Heading south to history Wake up the next morning and head south on Highway 11 from Kailua-Kona, where the road snakes up to 1,000 feet in elevation, and bougainvillea bushes, jacaranda trees, and coffee plantations float by your car as you pass through quaint towns. Turn right on Napo'opo'o Road as it winds down the hill to historic Kealakekua Bay. It was here that the first European to visit the island, Captain Cook, was killed in battle. A nearby stone heiau (Hawaiian temple) sits mystically on the shore. Continue south on the coast on Road 160 from the bay, and you'll discover the fascinating Pu'uhonua O Honaunau, or Place of Refuge National Historical Park (entrance fee $5), filled with Polynesian stone temples. Any breakers of a kapu (taboo) could have their transgressions absolved here by a kahuna (priest). The adjoining rocky cove is free to the public and makes a perfect snorkeling spot in the blue water, where dolphins often frolic around the swimmers. Heading from the park towards Highway 11, you'll pass the funky Wakefield Gardens (808/328-9930), a hidden-away patio restaurant set among lush foliage and flowers. Its fresh mahimahi sandwiches are served with tropical fruit and island cole slaw for $9, and "papaya boats" overflow with tuna salad for $8. Winding through Lavaland The highway then twists and turns through old black lava flows (the road had to be rebuilt a few times because of them) and through rural pastures and macadamia nut tree orchards. An hour farther on Highway 11 is the turn-off for South Point. The southernmost point in the United States, this grassy and windswept tip of the island is where the Polynesians first set foot in Hawaii around the third century A.D., having miraculously navigated almost 2,000 miles of open ocean. An old heiau is where Hawaiians believe their souls fly off the island after death. Back on Highway 11, you'll next pass through the lovely village of Na'alehu, overgrown with thick foliage. Mark Twain planted a monkey-pod tree here in 1866, and the gentle town hasn't changed much since. To soak up the undisturbed peace and quiet for your second night, check into the Shirakawa Motel (808/929-7462), just off the main highway. Simple but clean rooms underneath a canopy of luxuriant trees go for the rock-bottom rate of $35. An alternative accommodation for your second night is about a half hour farther along the highway. The road past Na'alehu opens up to immense expanses of lava flow dotted with red-blossomed ohia trees. Take the turnoff for the tucked-away Wood Valley, home to the tiny Wood Valley Temple and Retreat Center (808/928-8539), a Buddhist sanctuary once visited by the Dalai Lama. Beds in the adjoining dormitory cost $35, while private rooms go for $70 per couple. The home of Pele: Volcanoes National Park On your third day of driving, the road past Wood Valley once again climbs, this time to 3,000 feet, near the entrance of the mystifying Volcanoes National Park (entrance fee: $10 per car). Thousands of visitors a year peer into the depths of the steaming craters and crevices. This area is home to Pele, the Hawaiian volcano goddess, and offerings of flowers and gin bottles are still thrown into the craters by believers. At times, lava flows spill into the ocean, creating a glowing spectacle, but the best views are only via helicopter. Otherworldly hiking trails over hardened lava cauldrons make you feel like you are visiting another planet. The nearby village of Volcano is cool and misty and full of mysterious fern trees. Your third-night accommodations should be at the Hale Ohia Cottages (808/967-7986), starting at $95 for a double and worth every penny. Built in 1931, these wood-shingled cottages appear like fairy castles in the forest. For women only, the Butterfly Inn in nearby Kurtistown (800/546-2442) has B&B-style rooms for only $55 single, $65 double, which includes breakfast and access to a steam room, hot tub, and beautiful gardens. Lush and wet Hilo Another option for your third night is to take Highway 11 an hour north and overnight in Hilo instead. The road to Hilo passes wild orchids blooming on the verdant roadside, and numerous gardens and nurseries beckon you to smell their tropical flowers. Hilo itself is the rainiest city in the United States. Its weathered storefronts hark back to its wealthy past as a booming sugar town. Well-watered Hilo is alive with banyan trees, plumeria, birds of paradise, and other exotic tropical plants, and it's home to the photogenic Rainbow Falls, just behind the downtown area. My Hilo lodging recommendation is the two-story, island-style Wild Ginger Inn (100 Pu'ueo Street, 800/882-1887), with banana bunches hanging in the bamboo lobby. Doubles cost only $65. A favorite for eats is Bears Coffee (106 Keawe Street, 808/935-0708), where local characters sit on sidewalk chairs and munch on overstuffed deli sandwiches for $4.25, and on fresh island breakfasts of eggs, bagels and lox, or waffles ranging from $3 to $4. North of Hilo, Highway 11 becomes Highway 19 as it coasts past abandoned fields of waving sugar cane and deep gorges filled with tall trees and overflowing creeks. Take a detour on Route 240 to its end, nine miles later, at the majestic Waipio Valley, once a major Hawaiian settlement and home to kings. Horse-drawn wagon tours with knowledgeable Hawaiian guides are just $40 with Waipio Valley Wagon Tours (808/775-9518). Hawaii's wild west Highway 19 curves westward up to the cowboy town of Waimea, headquarters of the enormous Parker Ranch. Cacti, cows, and horseback riders dot the panoramic landscape, which looks like something shipped in from Montana. For your fourth night, stay at the 30-room, motel-style Kamuela Inn (Highway 19, 800/555-8968), at $59 per room, or choose the cozy Waimea Country Lodge (65-1210 Lindsey Road, 808/885-4100), a motel with a red barn-like motif for $93 a room, some with views of the mountains. Afterwards, detour north on Highway 250 along the Kohala Mountains to the amiable town of Hawi, filled with art galleries. A must-eat venue is the historic Bamboo Restaurant on Highway 270 (808/889-5555), in a former hotel lobby offering the best chicken potstickers in the world for $7.95 a plate, and enormous burgers with cole slaw and french fries for $7.50. The road south from Hawi to Kailua-Kona is lined with pricey megaresorts, but be sure to stop by the best beach on the island, snow-white Hapuna Beach, about halfway to your starting point of Kailua-Kona. All told, this exotic tropical trip can be a breeze on the wallet -- now that you have a former resident's scoop. Budget Travel Associate Editor Matthew Link is the author of the 250-page guidebook Rainbow Handbook Hawaii.