"Our group of friends is gonna take London by storm"
In 1993, the quilting bug bit a group of nurses and receptionists at an OB/GYN office in Fitchburg, Mass. The ladies--Terri Bulger, Pattie Kullman, Judy Logue, Lucille McCaie, Cathy McCarthy, and Nancy Sulin--started meeting once a week outside of work to learn the craft from Nancy. Quilting lessons quickly became an excuse to gossip, relax, eat, and laugh. Their office shut down and the women moved on to other jobs, but the gatherings remained sacrosanct. "We decided upon Thursday night," explained Terri. "Hell or high water, you'd better be there!"
The Red Hat Society, an informal organization of mature women who get together to whoop it up while wearing bright-red hats, seemed like a natural fit for the six fun-loving friends. They officially joined the society a year ago, and now the ladies, whose ages range from 45 to 53, regularly dress for outings in their most outlandish red chapeaus. They also pool their funds together for an annual group vacation. Past trips have included Cape Cod, where Nancy has a house, and Amish country in Pennsylvania.
"We had been doubling the money we threw in the pot and thought, 'Let's take a big trip,'" said Terri.
"Some of the girls had never left the country," said Lucille. "We decided we were going to do Europe."
London was at the top of everyone's list, and they booked airfare and a flat close to Trafalgar Square, through Mansley Travel Apartments (011-44/20-7373-4689, mtaint.co.uk) for four nights in early November. Since none of them had been to London, the major sights were a must. Just as important was exploring local stores and markets, so they contacted us for help.
First things first: We steered the Red Hatters to a few websites that cover most of the basics: visitlondon.com has a great link (click on Budget) that lists free museums and attractions, ways to save on theater tickets, and tips for finding deals at designer stores; londontown.com posts discounts on tours, hotels, and airport transfers, as well as hundreds of restaurant reviews; and timeout.com/london offers the lowdown on bars, art exhibits, and events.
"Do the double-decker buses still run?" asked Terri. "It would be fun to get up on the deck and spot things and say, 'I'd like to go there.'" We told them about the Big Bus Company (48 Buckingham Palace Rd., 011-44/20-7233-9533, bigbustours.com,) a popular option that lets tourists hop on and off at more than 50 stops. Each bus ticket comes with guided walks in town and a cruise on the Thames; a pass valid for 24 hours is £18 (due to the weak dollar, that's a steep $32, though they can save £2 by booking online). A less touristy ride around London--but without the Big Bus's sightseeing commentary--costs as little as $4.50, the rate for one day of unlimited travel on the city's public buses (hop on route numbers 3, 11, 77A, or 159). Bus passes need to be purchased before boarding, at any Tube station or roadside ticket machine(Transport for London: 011-44/20-7941-4500,tfl.gov.uk, day bus pass $4.50.)
But sightseeing can only get a girl so far. "Millinery shops are a must," Lucille told us. The ladies will be searching for (what else?) some new red hats, and, lucky for them, London is a mad hatter's dream. For this important mission, we're sending them to Rachel Trevor-Morgan (18 Crown Passage, 011-44/20-7839-8927.) Located off of posh Pall Mall, the high-end shop is in walking distance of their apartment. We also thought the group would get a kick out of a visit to the boutique of Philip Treacy (69 Elizabeth St., 011-44/20-7730-3992,) the Irish-born milliner whose fanciful hats are displayed in museums and on the heads of celebs such as Victoria Beckham. To round out the hat search, we recommended a visit to London's landmark department store Harrods (87 Brompton Rd., Knightsbridge, 011-44/20-7730-1234.)
Terri makes clothes for her infant granddaughter and is always on the hunt for material, Cathy is interested in cross-stitching, and all six of the women like to sew and quilt. We recommended Berwick Street in London's Westminster neighborhood, where stores such as Textile King (81 Berwick St., 011-44/20-7437-7372) and Accessories World (71 Berwick St., 011-44/20-7734-1698) specialize in rare fabrics and jewelry sold wholesale. For a higher-end shop, Liberty (Regent St., 011-44/20-7734-1234) founded in 1875, is the place to go. Once inside the formidable Tudor entrance on Great Marlborough Street, the women will find first-rate haberdashery, yarn, cross-stitching kits, clothing and upholstering fabric, patterns, buttons, and thread galore in the sprawling, wood-paneled store. (Liberty also has a fine hat department.) Things can cost a bundle here, but those willing to plow through the sale merchandise can find bargains.
The crew was also curious about London's open-air markets, where shops set up stalls right on the street. Because the ladies are antiquers, we directed them to the unbeatable Portobello Road Market in Notting Hill, held every Saturday. Smart shoppers stop by early, since all the wares are put out in the morning.
A lesser-known market but one with incredible flowers--which Pattie simply can't get enough of--is the Columbia Road Flower Market in east London, held every Sunday. Pattie won't be able to bring fresh blossoms back with her, but we suggested she dry some choice specimens for homemade potpourri.
After getting their fill of shopping, the girls want to hit the town. Judy, a darts addict, planned to bring her own darts--put them in your checked luggage, Judy!--and try her luck in a pub. The rest of the women volunteered to be her cheering squad. "We stir things up quite a bit," Terri said. "But I don't want to get thrown out of anywhere!" One place that will be happy to have them is the Anchor Pub, in Battersea (61 Holgate Ave., 011-44/20-7585-1105,) where darts trophies crowd the shelves. Seven different teams play regularly at the pub, and people bring in darts for nightly tournaments.
No trip to London would be complete without seeing the Queen and Prince Charles. And why not throw in the Beatles and Madonna? The ladies refused to leave without visiting Madame Tussauds (Marylebone Rd., 011-44/870-400-3000, madame-tussauds.co.uk, day ticket $35.50,) the famous waxworks. We cautioned them against the tempting advance-ticket booking option. For £2 extra (almost $4) they would have a guaranteed entry time, which would be worth it in the summer, when lines can last several hours. In the off-season, however, waits are usually only a few minutes and almost never more than a half hour. Also, the museum is open until 7 p.m., and although standard tickets start at $36, rates drop by $7.20 at 3 p.m., and by another $9 at 5 p.m.
Finally, we had to ask: Are husbands ever invited on the trips?
"No!" Lucille exclaimed.
"England doesn't know what's going to hit them," said one spouse, who wanted to remain anonymous. "If they did, they'd close the border."
Driving Mendocino County
What you'll find in this story: California travel, Mendocino culture, Mendocino County attractions, Mendocino County lodging, Boonville San Francisco travel As most people who live in San Francisco will tell you, there are an infinite number of things to love about the city. What they might not say is that one of the reasons they love it so has nothing to do with the city proper. It's the easy proximity to the stunning terrain to the north. Not Marin County--which is nice but no surprise--but Mendocino County, where in a matter of hours you can be zooming back and forth between the dramatic coastline and rolling inland hills. Day one: San Francisco to Boonville The first tunnel I come to after crossing over the Golden Gate Bridge, five minutes into Marin, is framed with a rainbow painting, nicely reflecting the region's laid-back, eco-friendly leanings. I breathe a little deeper, relaxing to the scent of wildflowers and sage that seeps in through the car windows. In Calistoga, famous for its mineral water and mud-bath spas, I pick up a friend, and we head west on Highway 128. In true Sunday fashion, the drive is glorious. It's sunny, the hills are deep green, and the curves in the road are just sharp enough to keep me engaged but still allow for satisfying speed. Our first stop is blink-and-you've-missed-it Jimtown. The Jimtown Store, with its vintage Ford ornamentally parked out front, is an endearing pit stop both for road-trippers like us and spandex-clad bicyclists hydrating with fresh lemonade on the benches out front. A tiny counter doubles as a gourmet deli and wine bar, and a tastefully eclectic array of objets de kitsch, craft, and nostalgia are scattered around for sale. Healdsburg, not far west, is far more developed--wineries with boutique-like storefronts, upscale clothing stores, and a tree-shaded town square that's often the site of alfresco art fairs. We have a lunch of fancy sandwiches and strawberry aguas frescas at the Oakville Grocery. Once home to apple orchards, the area is equally suited to grape growing, and the linear rows of vines appear with greater frequency the deeper we venture into Anderson Valley. It doesn't take long to reach Boonville, our first overnight stop. In fact, we arrive so soon that we haven't quite gotten our fill yet, so we forge ahead a few miles to Philo (population 400) for a bit of wine tasting. In contrast to the larger, corporate-owned Napa vint-ners, the wine business here is in the hands of families and individual owners, and we're pleasantly surprised when the proprietors don't charge us. We begin with reds at Brutocao Cellars, and then at Navarro Vineyards--highly recommended by a sommelier-wannabe friend--we expand to include whites. The pourer is approachable and knowledgeable, and the patio has a fantastic view of the flourishing vines. I'm so impressed that I buy three bottles. Outside the entrance to Hendy Woods State Park, we encounter a cluster of buildings called the Apple Farm. There's a stand selling ice-cold organic apple juice, three rustically chic cottages (they rent for a little more than we want to spend), and a cooking school headed by Don and Sally Schmitt, the former owners of the famous French Laundry restaurant in Yountville (which they sold to Thomas Keller in 1994). The Boonville Hotel, run by the Schmitts' son Johnny, is a tasteful update of an old roadhouse. The fresh touches in the room include geometric-print bedspreads, designer mint-green walls, and aromatic lavender in a vase on the side table. After a few glasses of wine in the flower garden, we're happy to discover that the hotel has a well-regarded restaurant on the ground floor. We're less happy that the three-course prix fixe and a glass of wine cost almost as much as the weekday rate for one of the rooms. But we enjoy our dinner just the same, and the quiet of the evening allows for a night of uninterrupted sleep. Day one Lodging Boonville Hotel14050 Hwy. 128, Boonville, 707/895-2210, boonvillehotel.com, from $100 Food Jimtown Store6706 Hwy. 128, Healdsburg, 707/433-1212, lunch $10 Oakville Grocery124 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 707/433-3200, lunch $15 Attractions Brutocao Cellars & Vineyards7000 Hwy. 128, Philo, 707/895-2152 Navarro Vineyards5601 Hwy. 128, Philo, 800/537-9463 The Apple Farm18501 Philo-Greenwood Rd., Philo, 707/895-2333, cottages from $200 Day two: Boonville to Mendocino The road toward the Mendocino coast winds through the lush forest of Navarro River Redwoods State Park, where the air develops a chill. As in San Francisco, the climate is generally cool but punctuated with rare crystal-clear days that are close to perfection. (I'd find it significantly more refreshing if I weren't wearing flip-flops.) Our first sight of the Pacific Coast is when it's blanketed in atmospheric fog. What we can see: steep, craggy cliffs, crashing waves, and Victorian buildings with shingles hung out offering respite from the bracing outdoors. Here, B&Bs have their own official highway markers--with a little icon of a house--to help travelers find their way. We drive past entrances to numerous state parks and beaches, misty views lending a bit of drama. Twenty minutes past the turnoff to Mendocino--we'll come back to that later--is Fort Bragg, a working-class coastal town with a remarkable array of musty shops selling 20th-century bric-a-brac. This is also the place to board the Skunk Train, a logging railroad turned into a tourist attraction. On the main drag, we stop at a hole-in-the-wall called Eggheads. Omelets, appropriately, are the highlight of the menu; less appropriately, the room is done in an elaborate Wizard of Oz theme. Still, I can't resist ordering the Wicked Witch Burger, which lives up to its name in spiciness. Having been sequestered in the car long enough, we switch to exploring on foot. Our first stop is Glass Beach, a former city dump, where broken bottles have been worn down by the sea into glistening, colorful, translucent pebbles. We hike a few short trails at MacKerricher State Park, three miles north of town, then return to Mendocino. Mendocino is a quaint mass of old Victorian-style buildings perched on a cliff. We arrive just as the sun is setting, and the early evening streets bustle with visitors of all ages and styles. At MacCallum House, a stately hotel, it's possible to people-watch in the bar/café while having a dinner of tasty appetizers. We're staying at the Sweetwater Inn & Spa. Rooms at the inn and the spa include use of a communal hot tub, which we learn is clothing optional. After spending an hour or two in this New Agey town, frankly, I'm not surprised. We upgrade to a private tub. By 10 p.m., the streets are deserted. I sleep like a baby--that is, until I'm awakened in the middle of the night by the exotic beat of bongo drums thumping in the distance. Day two Lodging Sweetwater Inn & Spa 44860 Main St., Mendocino, 800/882-7029, mendocinoinn.com, from $85, private tubs at the spa, $15.50 per hour per person Food Eggheads Restaurant326 N. Main St., Fort Bragg, 707/964-5005, lunch $10 MacCallum House Inn & Restaurant45020 Albion St., Mendocino, 800/609-0492, maccallumhouse.com, dinner $20 Attractions Navarro River Redwoods State ParkHwy. 128, two miles east of Hwy. 1, 707/937-5804 Skunk TrainFoot of Laurel St., Fort Bragg, 800/866-1690, skunktrain.com, tickets from $35, kids $20 Glass BeachElm St. at Old Haul Rd., Fort Bragg MacKerricher State ParkHwy. 1, north of Fort Bragg in Cleone, 707/964-9112 We grab sandwiches at the Little River Market (which, for some reason, is attached to the post office) and take them to one of the tables in the back, where there is a splendid ocean view. A couple of minutes south is Van Damme State Park's Pygmy Forest, a romantic name for a natural aberration. Here, cypress, pine, and other trees only grow to a stunted height, due to the mineral-challenged soil. It's a bizarre, understated spectacle. Trees that look like they should be towering above us are just my height. Next stop, Gualala--pronounced "wah-la-la," FYI--and the St. Orres hotel, where we're staying. It's difficult to miss, as the building looks like some kind of Russian Orthodox fantasy, all cedar and stained glass. Deer and wild turkeys peacefully graze on the hillside nearby. The main structure has eight rooms and a restaurant, but we're issued a spacious and secluded cabin a few hundred feet up the road. Tuckered out from canoeing, we stick close to home for dinner. The restaurant's menu, which we thumbed through in the cottage, suggests you can order hearty pastas and appetizers, but the actual experience is more formal--and pricey-- than we were bargaining for. So we make do by ordering an assortment of light appetizers--tiny morsels of baby abalone with seared scallops, a savory wild mushroom tart, garlic flan, and a salad. It's delicious and just about enough to tide us over for the night. Day three Lodging St. Orres36601 South Hwy. 1, Gualala, 707/884-3303, saintorres.com, rooms from $90, dinner $40 Food Little River Market7746 North Hwy. 1, Little River, 707/937-5133, lunch $6 Attractions Catch a Canoe & Bicycles, Too44850 Comptche-Ukiah Rd., Mendocino, 707/937-0273, canoe rental $20 per hour, two-hour minimum Van Damme State ParkPygmy Forest, three miles south of Mendocino, Hy. 1, 707/937-5804 Which is not to say we don't make a few more stops. The upscale Sea Ranch resort community has award-winning '60s modernist architecture by William Turnbull and others. The houses are clustered in private enclaves with no-trespassing signs, but there are public walks along the beach at the Sea Ranch Lodge. In Bodega Bay we veer inland, passing the locations for Alfred Hitchcock's The Birds and then the Christo and Jeanne-Claude Running Fence Historic Park, a tiny spot of green that commemorates the artists' 1976 art installation. (The 24.5-mile-long curtain of fabric wound its way from Cotati down to the sea.) As parks go, it's not much. But it drives home the point that this area is full of lovely surprises. Day four Sea Ranch Lodge60 Sea Walk Dr., 800/732-7262, searanchlodge.com Christo and Jeanne-Claude Running Fence Historic Park15000 Bodega Hwy., Bodega, 707/565-2041 Day oneSan Francisco to Boonville, 136 Miles Follow Hwy. 101 north across the Golden Gate Bridge. At Santa Rosa , take the Guerneville/River Rd. exit. Turn right on Mark West Springs Rd., left on Petrified Forest Rd., and left on Hwy. 128. Jimtown is 18 miles up. Just past Geyserville, 128 meets back up with Hwy. 101. They separate again just before Cloverdale; stick with 128 north. Boonville is 26 miles past that break.Day twoBoonville to Mendocino, 39 Miles Continue north on 128. Navarro River Redwoods State Park is two miles before the point where 128 meets Hwy. 1, at the coast. If you reach the water, you've gone too far. The town of Mendocino is 10 miles past the junction of Hwys. 128 and 1. To get to Fort Bragg, pass through Mendocino and keep driving north on Hwy. 1 for 10 miles. Backtrack on 1 to return to Mendocino for the night.Day threeMendocino to Gualala, 49 MilesVan Damme State Park is in the town of Little River, three miles south of Mendocino on Hwy. 1. Gualala is 46 miles farther south.Day fourGualala to San Francisco, 115 Miles Jump back on Hwy. 1 to leave Gualala. At Bodega Bay, Hwy. 1 leads past Hitchcock's The Birds site. Continuing south 68 miles past Bodega Bay, the road drops you right back onto the Golden Gate Bridge and into San Francisco.