Trip Coach: Nov. 8, 2005

Visitors to Amsterdam can now rent handheld GPS devices to find their way to 500 points of interest (citynavigators.com, $20 per day) On Site59.com, four South American cities--Buenos Aires, São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, and Santiago--have been added to its roster of last-minute getaway destinations Spirit Airlines announced new routes to the Caribbean, with flights to Grand Cayman, Turks and Caicos, and St. Thomas this winter FatLens.com often turns up tickets to sold-out concerts, sporting events, and shows by searching major vendors such as Ticketmaster, as well as eBay and Craigslist Avis and Budget have lowered the minimum age for car rentals to 21, but in most states they charge a $25 per-day surcharge for drivers under 25 Half a year after limiting its one-way domestic coach fares to a maximum of $499, Delta raised that cap to $599 A 32-foot-wide pool that creates endless waves for surfers and body boarders will make its debut this May on the top deck of a Royal Caribbean cruise ship Many BritRail passes are discounted by 25 percent for travel between the months of November and February JetBlue expands its presence in Boston with a new connection to Seattle, and plans to begin flying 100-seat planes so it can access smaller airports such as Richmond, Va., and Raleigh-Durham, N.C. A new shuttle in Malibu runs to and around the Santa Monica mountains, and through March 2006 the introductory fare is only $1 per ride (nps.gov/samo/shuttle) The French chain Accor has unveiled a new Ibis London City hotel near the Tower of London (011-44/870-429-5095, from $110) Come January, skiers at Breckenridge in Colorado will have access to trails and bowls previously reachable only by hiking, thanks to the new Imperial Express SuperChair. At 12,840 feet, it's North America's highest (breckenridge.com, full-day lift tickets from $45) This month marks the launch of the Michelin Guide in the U.S. The New York City edition rates 500 restaurants and 50 hotels ($17). It took 18 years, but a major attraction in New Zealand, the Ruakuri Cave in Waitomo, is accessible again. The old entrance was closed after it was found to be atop an ancient burial ground. Now visitors on foot or raft can explore one of the best places in the world to spot glowworms (ruakuri.co.nz) A new surf camp is opening in Las Salinas, on Nicaragua's Pacific coast. Weekly rates start at $700 and include all meals and up to three guided excursions a day (thesurfsanctuary.com) Atlanta gets its first aquarium this month. The Georgia Aquarium, a $200 million gift from Home Depot cofounder Bernie Marcus, will have over 500 species, but the real stars of the show will be two whale sharks, Ralph and Norton. The huge spotted fish are the only ones in North America, which may justify the high ticket price (georgiaaquarium.org, $23, kids $17).

SEE The Brompton Oratory Brompton Rd., 20/7808-0900, bromptonoratory.com This London pompworthy Catholic church is often overlooked--a pity, since its ornate, late-19th-century neo-Baroque interior is eye-popping, and the Old Masters statuary (mostly pilfered from Tuscany and Rome) is outstanding in its own right. Believers can catch mass in Latin daily at 6 p.m. SEE King's RoadA swanky shopping strip designed by Charles II as a shortcut to his mistress's house, bookended by World's End and Sloane Square. The best place to spy London's moneyed elite browsing for a baby carriage, or to pretend you're James Bond. (Royal Avenue is where Fleming sited Bond's London pad.) SEE V&A (Victoria & Albert) Museum Cromwell Rd., 20/7942-2000, vam.ac.uk The world's priciest and most-impressive collection of bric-a-brac, this catch-all museum's stunning holdings range from a set of monolithic Raphael cartoons to a National Fashion Collection that boasts jackets from both Queen Elizabeth's era and current designer Alexander McQueen. Open Mon., Tues., Thurs.--Sun., 10 a.m.--5:45 p.m.; Wed. and last Fri. of month, 10 a.m.--10 p.m. Free; special exhibitions and events from £10. EAT The Cow 89 Westbourne Park Rd., 20/7221-0021Gastropub owned by Tom (son of Terence) Conran, with chic, retro fixtures--imagine an upscale tea room from the 1950s--and a menu heavy on seafood. Try a pint of Guinness, the house tipple--as Madonna did during her early days as an adoptive Londoner. EAT Lisboa Patisserie 57 Golborne Rd., 20/8968-5242 Tucked away in West London, a pilgrimage-worthy Portuguese patisserie, with an on-site bakery that churns out heavenly pastéis de nata (custard tarts). EAT The Wolseley 160 Piccadilly, 20/7499-6996, thewolseley.comThe newest spot from the creators of The Ivy is a large, brasserie-style restaurant with plenty of seating and long hours, so almost anyone can snag a table. The best (and cheapest) scene is breakfast, when media and fashion types nibble gingerly on housemade date-and-pecan twists or pain au chocolat. Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. DRINK Apartment 195 195 King's Rd., 20/7351-5195, apartment195.co.ukCozy, dim bar with overstuffed leather seating and, on occasion, roaring open fires in the winter. Its hidden location--in apartment no. 195--means that passing riffraff don't disturb the friendly, local vibe. Closed Sun. in summer. DRINK Trailer Happiness 177 Portobello Rd., 20/7727-2700, trailerhappiness.com Kitschy California-inspired bar, with a 1960s decor (bean bags, lurid prints) and drinks list (mai tais and zombies never went out of style here). Graze on snacks called TV dinners and groove to the low-key DJ. SHOP Harvey Nichols 109-125 Knightsbridge, 20/7235-5000, harveynichols.comHarrods may lure the tourists, but Harvey Nick's is the real fashion mecca: a vast, luxurious cosmetics department, two floors of menswear in the basement, and an unbeatable selection of high-end haute couture. Refuel with a glass of bubbly at the Fifth Floor Café. SHOP J&M Davidson 42 Ledbury Rd., 20/7313-9532, jandmdavidson.co.uk Artisanal leathers designed by husband-and-wife team John and Monique: women's and men's accessories, plus homewares, and even fashion. Classic but not fusty. SHOP Olivia Morris 355 Portobello Rd., 20/8962-0353, oliviamorrisshoes.comMorris is the punky enfant terrible of London's cobbling clique (Jimmy Choo, Manolo Blahnik, et al). She makes a range of weird but wearable shoes, from African-inspired wedges to velvet boots. Closed Mon. and Tues. PLAY The Electric Cinema 191 Portobello Rd., 20/7908-9696, the-electric.co.ukAt last, an alternative to lukewarm popcorn and rock-hard seats: Here, enjoy a movie while lounging in an overstuffed armchair (complete with footstool), sipping a glass of wine, and nibbling on gourmet snacks. There are a couple of secluded two-seater sofas in the back row. Admission from £5. SPLURGE Gordon Ramsay 68 Royal Hospital Rd., 20/7352-4441, gordonramsay.comLondon's answer to New York's Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Ramsay is as famous for his fiery temper--showcased on several hit TV cooking shows--as for his food. A shame, since his take on British staples is tasty and refreshing. With three Michelin stars and only 14 tables, save up for a year or so, and book at least a month in advance. Closed Sat. and Sun. TIP Avoid fines on the Tube Be sure to take your paper ticket after you pass through the Tube's electronic turnstile. If you're caught without your ticket (many people forget it), fines can reach as high as £20. Transit bobbies roam the underground, regularly stopping riders to demand proof that they've paid.

SEE Theatre Museum Russell St., 20/7943-4700, theatremuseum.orgUnfairly neglected in favor of the market nearby, this outpost of the Victoria & Albert celebrates the lives of acting legends such as David Garrick with more than three centuries' worth of trinkets. Saturday's an interactive day with workshops and makeup classes for kids. Open Tues.--Sun., 10 a.m.--6 p.m. Free. EAT The Ivy 1 West St., 20/7836-4751, caprice-holdings.co.uk Still the best place in London to spot a celeb or two--note the hordes of paparazzi permanently stationed out front. As worthwhile for its food as for its scene, its menu's heavy on comfort staples like crab cakes. Booking ahead is essential. EAT Rules 35 Maiden Ln., 20/7836-5314 The place where time stands still: Rules seems much the same as it was when Dickens was a regular 200 years ago. Expect to eat lots and lots of game (in season, from the northern England estate the restaurant owns). The dining room is like a gentleman's club, so dress up if you want to feel you belong. DRINK Punch & Judy 40 The Market, 20/7379-0923 Packed every night, often with yuppie office workers, and the beer's overpriced. But that's not the point: On a summer's night, the terrace balcony overlooking the piazza is the best place for a drink in central London. SHOP Bailey 5-11 Shorts Gardens, 20/7836-6097Christopher Bailey's menswear is a design insider's choice, from his slim-fit shirts--often emblazoned with his trademark curlicue B--to his roomy jeans and offbeat accessories (silver knuckle-dusters and huge cuff watches). SHOP Dress Circle 57-59 Monmouth St., 20/7240-2227, dresscircle.co.ukThe store sells anything show-related. There are the standard CDs and posters, as well as scores, programs, and even specialist magazines. The staff's exhaustive knowledge--and gossipy know-how on the current West End scene--is a major plus. SHOP Muji 135 Long Acre, 20/7379-0820, muji.co.uk Minimalist Japanese chain selling stationery, homewares, furniture, and clothing. It's all simple and smartly designed--heavy on unbleached paper and Perspex. What's more, prices are always reasonable. The pocket screwdriver sets are particularly nifty. SPLURGE Koh Samui 65-67 Monmouth St., 20/7240-4280 Lush and hushed, this smallish boutique is the go-to choice for glamour girls in London. There's barely a rack that isn't packed with must-haves: Chloé, Balenciaga, and Missoni, as well as a smattering of rising fashion stars. Cash in the mortgage and splash out. RAISING THE BRA The buzziest blog in London isn't media-centric or political-scandal-rousing--it's by an anonymous, high-class call girl (belledejour.co.uk). With the nom de plume Belle de Jour, in honor of the classic film, she's just snagged a book deal to reprint her exploits. If you'd rather have your fun than read about it, head for one of these high-end lingerie shops for a real souvenir to remember. Agent Provocateur 6 Broadwick St., 20/7439-0229, agentprovocateur.com Run by the son of original fashion rebel Vivienne Westwood, this shop kick-started the upscale lingerie trend in Britain, and is still a reliable choice: The pink-and-black boxes are to marabou thongs and half-cup bras what robin's-egg blue is to diamonds. Myla 77 Lonsdale Rd., 20/7221-9222, myla.com Stocks designer lingerie (the pearl-encrusted G-string is a popular choice) as well as a signature line of accessories reimagined as art objects by designers like Tom Dixon. Rigby & Peller 22a Conduit St., 20/7491-2200, rigbyandpeller.com Bra-fitters to the Queen, but non-HRH types can come for a free fitting--the women who work here are experienced enough to size you up without even measuring. Splurge on a new bra in your new size (it's almost guaranteed you're wearing the wrong one) and never look back. Closed Sun.

SEE Madame Tussauds Marylebone Rd., at Baker St. 870/400-3000, madame-tussauds.co.ukIrresistible kitsch and fun, Tussauds is London's premier tourist draw. Skip the Clooney and Pitt-dominated Garden Party at the start and head for the Great Hall, where there's an impressive selection of historical figures, or linger in the gory Chamber of Horrors. Go late in the day: The crowds are thinner and the entry price is lower, too. Open Mon.--Fri., 9:30 a.m.--5:30 p.m.; weekends, 9 a.m.--6 p.m. Admission: £13--£22, depending on time of day. SEE Wallace Collection Hertford House, Manchester Sq., 20/7563-9500 wallacecollection.org Stashed in a quiet square, this French château-style mansion is full of antiques and paintings inherited and collected by the illegitimate, art-loving heir of the Marquess of Hertford. There's a heavy emphasis on French finery--Sèvres porcelain, Louis XIV furniture--as well as Boucher and Fragonard canvases, and a smattering of English work by the likes of Reynolds and Gainsborough. Open daily, 10 a.m.--5 p.m. Free. EAT Eat and Two Veg 50 Marylebone High St., 20/7258-8595 Airy vegetarian restaurant with ample seating and a refreshingly varied menu, from meatless burgers to tofu sausage 'n' mash or hotpot. Weekend brunch is especially hopping and fun. EAT Golden Hind 73 Marylebone Lane, 20/7486-3644 Is there such a thing as chic fish and chips? Yes, if you stop by this retro joint in Marylebone's gourmet ghetto, complete with vintage Bakelite fryer. Alongside standard cod and chips, expect offbeat extras such as deep-fried mussels. Closed Sun. SHOP Daunt Books 83 Marylebone High St., 20/7224-2295 Book-lovers' mecca, with piles of new releases arranged by the door. A vast selection of travel books (including guides, memoirs, and maps) fills three floors at the back of the store. SHOP Get Up Boutique 9 Ashbridge St., 20/7725-9694,  weardowney.com Cute and quirky independent boutique run by a pair of designers who live and knit on site. Wrap dresses, knickers, and cardigans for women, and a few pairs of handmade cotton boxer shorts for men. Closed Sun. PLAY Royal Academy of Music Marylebone Rd., 20/7873-7300, ram.ac.ukThe alma mater of composers such as Arthur Sullivan and Michael Nyman combines an on-site instrument museum (you can hear the Stradivarius playing on headphones) with a regular series of free lunchtime and evening concerts. Call or check the website for schedules. DRINK Salt Whisky Bar 82 Seymour St., 20/7402-1155, saltbar.com Dram-downing whiskey lovers should make a pilgrimage to this dark and cozy bar with its thick plastic Perspex counter and its flickering tealights. The range of available whiskies is staggering, taking in everything from Islay malts to Japanese-made concoctions. DRINK The Social 5 Little Portland St., 20/7636-4992 On Marylebone's southern outskirts, a reliable DJ bar serving a short menu of comfort staples like beans on toast, as well as the usual range of draft beers. But most people come to listen to the eclectic, unusual roster of turntablists, who play everything from hard-core house to retro salsa. SPLURGE The Providores and Tapa Room 109 Marylebone High St., 20/7935-6175, theprovidores.co.ukLondon's legendary palace of fusion food, run by the affable New Zealander Peter Gordon. The two-story space boasts a downstairs spot known as the Tapa Room, which offers tasting portions of its Pacific Rim menu; upstairs is a clean all-white space for pricier, larger portions of globe-trotting gourmet food. The steamed sugar snap peas are delicious. ESCAPE Hampton Court Palace 870/752-7777, hrp.org.ukForget Windsor Castle--it's little more than a white turret with a few fusty staterooms attached (the Queen's rarely spotted, anyway). True monarchy maniacs should head to Hampton Court. A schizophrenic palace, it was built in two eras and two sections: From one side, it's an ornate, multi-chimneyed Renaissance sprawl (and residence of wife-swapper Henry VIII in the 16th century), while from the other, it's a pale-granite neo-Classical palace (thanks to husband-and-wife team William and Mary, who remodeled it nearly 200 years later). Poke around and see if you spot one of the many ghosts said to haunt the corridors here, but make sure to leave plenty of time to explore the fiendish yew maze on the grounds. Admission: £12.