Rome: 5 best November values

By Sofia Celeste
October 3, 2012
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Courtesy Museo del Corso

Jazz concerts from $7

The 34th-annual Roma Jazz Festival pays homage to a new generation of musicians such as pianist Chiara Civello, American jazz-fusion multi-instrumentalist Esperanza Spalding, and the Unknown Rebel Band. Tickets for Civello and Spalding's shows are €15 ($21.30) and €18 ($25.50) respectively, while acts like the Unknown Rebel Band are €5 ($7). The festival, which runs through November 30, also features a few big-name musicians like Macy Gray. Most concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica; the 910 bus from Stazione Termini takes you there. Tickets are available online (with English instructions).

A new brunch restaurant

Brunch is a growing trend in Rome. There are some poor American replicas and other flimsy Italian attempts, but one of the most valid places that I have found so far is Angelina a Trevi (via Poli, 27), which opened two months ago in a tiny square off the bustling touristy path to the Trevi Fountain. The decor mixes rustic and industrial accents, while menu options include baked pasta, Sicilian caponata, fresh ricotta, and pastries baked daily. The buffet is not all you can eat—more like all you can fit on your plate. The price is based on weight, so for €14.50 ($20.35) you can eat 500 grams worth, which should be filling for most. If you have a monster appetite, it's €2 ($2.81) for every extra 100 grams.

Designer-made costumes on display

A new exhibit, Fashion of the Theater, opens today at Rome's Museo del Corso and showcases tutus, gowns, and other extravagant attire worn by performers like Luciano Pavarotti and Spanish dancer Joaquin Cortes. It's a rare look at the work done by major Italian designers—among them, Gianni Versace, Valentino, Giorgio Armani and Antonio Marras—for the stage rather than the runway. Tickets are €10 ($14.20) and available through December 5.

Back to the Futurism

Head to the Campo de' Fiori area for a free exhibition devoted to painter Giacomo Balla, a pillar of Futurism, an early 20th-century movement that embraced speed, technology, and youth. A native of Turin, Balla moved to Rome in 1895 and made his reputation with paintings like "Dynamism of a Dog on a Leash" and "Abstract Speed + Sound". The show is on view until December 31 at the Nuova Galleria Campo dei Fiori (via di Monserrato, 30).

Country specialties in the city

Drink and eat Lazio's freshest for only €7.50 ($10.50) at lunchtime at Fraschetteria Brunetti (Via Angelo Brunetti, 25b), just a few steps away from Piazza del Popolo. The menu is teeming with specialties from the Castelli Romani, the hilly region just outside of Rome where the Pope has his summer home. Go for the classic porchetta di ariccia (roasted seasoned pork). The fixed lunch menu includes one first course (which includes a wide variety of lasagna and cannelloni dishes), one drink, and one coffee.

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Adioso: A travel deal search-engine for the spontaneous

As a travel editor, I'm always looking for ways to improve my search for the cheapest airfares. I've got it down to my own particular science: Kayak, Bing Travel, Airfarewatchdog.com (for alerts), and a few other sites* are my go-to resources for cracking the cheap-fare code. That's all well and good, but there's something so appealing about being spontaneous—when traveling and when planning. Search engine Adioso tickles that fancy. The site specializes in searches on budget airlines (like JetBlue, Easyjet, and Virgin America) and was completely overhauled this fall to create a faster, more intuitive search. What makes Adioso a great tool for flexible travelers is its natural-language style of search, much like a Google search. For instance: I typed in "New York City to Sydney under $600." The site popped up a timeline of when I would be able to get a one-way flight under $600 (Nov. 9 was the first option, with one-way prices at $570). I also tried more general ideas, like "New York City to International," which hit me with a bunch of destinations starting at $360 one-way, and "NYC to Anywhere February," which gave me a totally different list, this time with one-way flights from just $52. Like most sites, you can click off easily onto a booking site to get the actual fare. Adioso launched in Australia in 2008 but recently expanded into the U.S. market—the newest version of the site is still in beta. It's no Kayak, but I think it could compete after adding some more flights. Overall, it's a site worth bookmarking, especially for the next time you feel a bit of wanderlust. *Interested in how I find cheap fares? My usual regimen starts with Kayak, where I use the newish Explore tool (good for getting ideas) or simply search specific dates. The site is so intuitive that even web novices can get the hang of it quickly. Then I go to Bing Travel, previously Farecast, to get a recommendation on whether to wait to purchase the fare or to take it before it goes up. If I'm looking in Europe, I'll also check out dohop.com, a Kayak-like site that offers some budget airlines that larger sites might not have. If I'm not happy with any of the options and I'm not in a hurry, I'll add the route to my watchlist at Airfare Watchdog. MORE FROM BUDGETTRAVEL.COM Leave tomorrow: Airfares to Hawaii are down An airfare search with a sense of humor The best flight search tool you've never heard of

San Francisco: 5 best November values

The Agave nature trail at Alcatraz The half-mile Agave walking trail on Alcatraz island, which is closed for most of the year for the bird-nesting season, just re-opened. Take advantage of the great southerly views of the city and rare glimpses of the island's birds (including the snowy egret, pictured) and tide pools. The trail is named for the spiky agave plants that were planted to keep invaders off the island (and later made it hard for prisoners to escape). The trail starts just south of the Ferry Dock. $26 ferry ticket. Discover Dogpatch fair New businesses keep popping up in Dogpatch, a waterfront neighborhood just below Potrero Hill that's often overlooked by visitors. But the Discover Dogpatch street fair is a perfect opportunity to see all the nabe has to offer. There will be lots of indie arts and craft stands—including Botany Factory's incredible terrariums—as well as pies galore thanks to a pie-baking contest. And be sure to grab a scoop of Mr. and Mrs. Miscellaneous ballpark ice cream made with beer, peanuts, chocolate, and pretzels, in honor of the Giants World Series win. Sunday, 11 a.m.-4 p.m., 2325 3rd Street, free. Galeria de la Raza's 40th birthday Founded in 1970 by a group of Chicano artists and community activists, Galeria de la Raza is an international cultural icon and a key element of San Francisco's rich Latino culture. The Mission district gallery is celebrating its history with a 40th-anniversary retrospective of its renowned Latino and Chicano art. Make sure to check out Rio Yanez's "Ghetto Frida," a huge comic-book-style mural outside the gallery, depicting Frida Kahlo in '90s "chola" gear at spots around the Mission. (see an interview with the artist here) Through Jan. 29, 2011, 2857 24th Street, free. Post-Impressionists at the de Young: Part Two The second set of post-Impressionist paintings on loan from the Musee d'Orsay is now on display at the de Young. The exhibit features work by such marquee names as Claude Monet and Auguste Renoir, and a highlight is Van Gogh's works, including the famous Starry Night Over the Rhone and Bedroom at Arles. The de Young is the only North American museum to feature this must-see exhibit and is hosting extended hours to handle the fans. (last tickets sold at 7:30 p.m.) Golden Gate Park, 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, tickets $21 (includes general admission). Bring your bus transfer pass for $2 off. Speakeasy at City Lights Lawrence Ferlinghetti's beat-generation landmark bookstore, City Lights, is hosting Subterranean SF: Harboiled Fiction with an Edge, a speakeasy-themed event at an undisclosed location in the city. Two "darkly inspired" crime writers, Jim Nisbet and Sin Soracco, will read from their new San Francisco-based books, and drinks will be served (naturally). To find out the location, stop by the bookstore and ask for the black envelope, which contains an invitation, map, and "navigation instructions." The store is giving away the invites for free, but on a first-come, first-served basis through November 15, so stop by early. Event details: November 18, 7 p.m. 21 and over only

Travel Tips

Controversy: Are you the cause of 'sidewalk rage'?

Cities love tourists for the money they bring to the local economy, and yet the locals often hate how visitors clog the streets and sidewalks. One city wants to do something about it. The city is London, and the specific street in question is popular Oxford Street. As the Wall Street Journal reports, the tactic being suggested is an unofficial line to segregate store browsers and travelers shuffling underneath the burden of heavy backpacks to half of the sidewalk closest to the buildings and shops, and to reserve the sidewalk's outside edge as a fast lane to be utilized by anyone -- locals, most likely -- walking with more of a sense of mission. How would the system be enforced? Actually, it wouldn't, not in any official capacity anyway. There wouldn't be fines or any repercussions for absentmindedly strolling or even for standing still and yakking away on a cell phone on the "fast" side of the sidewalk. But local area maps would advise travelers to stick to the slow side, and a team of neighborhoods hosts in red caps may approach slow walkers and "put visitors in their place, tactfully," as the Journal writes. if (WIDGETBOX) WIDGETBOX.renderWidget('2f2f6e50-f0f3-4363-a6e5-2fcecab4c7a4');Get the Poll Creator Pro widget and many other great free widgets at Widgetbox! Not seeing a widget? (More info)The concept is only in the proposal stages, and it is a tricky business, obviously: Cities such as London, as well as New York, Paris, and others, certainly don't want to make tourists feel even the slightest bit unwelcomed. On the other hand, it'd be nice to be able to walk to work without having to weave and maneuver among a crush of travelers and browsers shuffling, pausing, and otherwise obstructing foot traffic. Staffers at Budget Travel's New York City office, which is near Times Square and where I've heard the phrase "sidewalk rage" used more than once, understand this as well as anyone. But is there a smarter solution than the one being proposed in London? If an invisible line down the sidewalk seems off-putting, what might work instead? Or should the locals simply suck it up, and accept that sidewalk congestion is the tradeoff for being a popular tourist hub?

News

Liverpool: John Lennon remembered with series of cultural events

Liverpool is an essential stop on any Beatles-inspired journey, and the birthplace of the band is offering the perfect excuse to make the trip across the pond now—especially if John is your fave of the Fab Four. Earlier this month, Liverpool launched a two-month-long cultural program honoring the life of former Beatle John Lennon through a series of live music, film, poetry, and art events. Dubbed John Lennon Tribute Season, the celebration kicked off October 9—what would have been Lennon's 70th birthday—and runs through December 9, the day after the 30th anniversary of his assassination. Leading things off on October 9, Lennon's first wife, Cynthia, and their son, Julian, unveiled the city's newest Beatles-related artifact: an 18-foot peace monument, Peace and Harmony, dedicated to Lennon and now on permanent display in Chavasse Park, a five-acre green space in the city center. Commissioned by the Global Peace Initiative as part of a program to put a peace monument on every continent, the metal sculpture incorporates themes of music and peace, along with a white feather (a symbol of personal significance to the musician). Other noteworthy tribute events include: "Astrid Kirchherr: A Retrospective," an exhibit of photography by Kirchherr, an early Beatles photographer and the girlfriend of original band member Stuart Sutcliffe, at the University of Liverpool's Victoria Gallery & Museum through January 2011 (free), and Lennon by Bob Eaton, a musical biography playing through November 13 at the Royal Court Liverpool (from $16). Bed-In at the Bluecoat commemorates Lennon's activist side, with a daily re-creation of Lennon and Yoko Ono's 1969 peace protest at the Bluecoat creative arts center; each day, a different set of performers, artists, and organizations will promote peace, tolerance, and nonviolent protest in a new way from, of course, a bed (free). Capping off the tribute season is a memorial concert, Lennon Remembered, on December 9 at Echo Arena Liverpool. The show will highlight nine stages of Lennon's life, with performances by people who knew and worked with him, including members of his first band, the Quarrymen, and Plastic Ono Band drummer Alan White, who played on "Instant Karma" and "Imagine" and later joined the band Yes (from $31). Go here for a full list of John Lennon Tribute Season events. For more info about what to do in Liverpool, visit the city's tourism site. Where to stay: There's nowhere more appropriate than the Hard Days Night Hotel. The penthouse Lennon Suite, inspired by "Imagine" and decked out in a dominant white color palette with a white baby grand piano, might be a bit out of your price range ($1,185 a night!), but there's more than enough Beatles memorabilia to enjoy throughout the rest of the hotel—even if you don't stay there, it's definitely worth a visit. Getting there: Liverpool is just over two hours from London by train (Virgin Trains, from $17.50 each way).