Trip Coach: Family Camps

Imagine, if you will, a bright and shiny bus full of young backpackers from all over the globe sailing through the Australian Outback on an air-conditioned shoestring, feasting on Foster's and yeasty Vegemite sandwiches to the pounding beat of a rockin' sound track. It's not a scene from the popular Aussie road movie The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert, but just another day on the Oz Experience, one of the first bus lines in history to offer "hop-on/hop-off" service--a subset of the so-called "backpacker bus" phenomenon that is changing the face (or at least one of the cheekbones) of budget travel. What they are An offbeat (sometimes downright wacky) cross between a Eurail train pass, an organized tour, and a Greyhound intercity coach, the hop-on/hop-off bus basically works like this: you buy a ticket from Point A to Point B, which entitles you to make as many stops as you please along the way-dally to your heart's content--then simply hop the next bus onward when you're good and ready. Flexibility like this, unthinkable in the byzantine airline world, means that footloose travelers can cover more ground than ever before at a fraction of the price-and with a lot more fun, thanks to the congenial company of like-minded dudes and dudettes (mostly well under 30, single, and looking to party). The drivers, who act simultaneously as tour guides, den mothers, hostel bookers, and all-around smart alecks, are handpicked, licensed, and generally responsible; their presence reassures parents who might be less than eager to let their young ones saunter off on a totally unescorted adventure. "It's a tour and it's a party," observes David Barish, publisher of Bakpak Travelers Guide, and the atmosphere is certainly a draw for the right kind of person. Others, like 33-year-old Prisca Demolli of Verona, Italy, find that it's "a bore, and there's way too much beer involved." Still, it's hard to argue with prices like US $199 on Oz Experience for a journey from Sydney to Cairns--a minimum of nine days, with plenty of stops for sight-seeing, bush walks, wineries, sheep stations (ranches), even petting zoos. By comparison, Greyhound Pioneer (unrelated to America's own Greyhound) charges $139 for a very standard ride between the two cities--a bit cheaper, yes, but no bells and whistles (and a lot less rowdiness). Over the past decade, a growing handful of hop-on/off bus lines have taken root around the globe, especially in former British colonies like New Zealand, South Africa, Canada, and of course Australia. A few brave attempts (The ANT, US Bus, and AmeriBus) have recently been made within our own borders, but all have gone belly-up due to factors including the vast size of the United States and the different mentality and expectations of our younger travelers. Elsewhere, though, this kind of ultraflexible service is, well, hopping. Young or old, then, or anyone planning extensive travel to certain parts of the globe, would do well to look into the outfits below, directly or through American travel agencies such as Council Travel (800/226-8624) or STA Travel (800/777-0112). New Zealand At the ripe old age of 11, the Kiwi Experience is the granddaddy of the hop-on/hop-off movement. The groundbreaking formula of cheap, flexible service and perky staff proved so popular that by 1993, the wild and crazy guys who founded the company expanded next door into Australia. Today they offer a plethora of cutely named passes throughout this Colorado-size country; the "Southern Roundup," for example, takes in South Island sights both on and off the beaten track (Christchurch, Queenstown, wilderness stopovers) for US $188 ($179 with an ISIC student card or a card from a hostelling organization like YHA or VIP; about $10 more if bought in New Zealand). To do both islands in depth, with some three dozen stops along the way, the "Whole Kit & Caboodle" costs just US $483 ($459 with discounts; about $24 more if bought locally). Buses run daily January through March and at least four times a week otherwise. 170 Parnell Rd., Parnell, Auckland; tel. 011-61-9/366-9830, fax 366-1374; kiwiexperience.com. Australia One of the best budget ways to grasp the vast and often stark beauty of the land Down Under is from the back of an Oz Experience bus, a vehicle much more plush than you'd expect (no toilets on board, though, and it can be as long as three hours between stops). Still, the cheeky patter of the driver/guide will keep you amused (otherwise, bring earplugs). The oddly named "Bruce Ex: Syd" is the most popular route, running from Sydney to Cairns (home of the Great Barrier Reef), with four weekly departures (more in high season); it takes at least nine days to complete and costs only US $207 for a six-month pass with unlimited stops (ten bucks cheaper with YHA or VIP discounts). Another great route, the "Grouse," hits all the tourist faves, starting in Sydney and passing through delightful Melbourne on the way to Alice Springs (near world-famous Ayers Rock), then flying on to Cairns for the finale. The cost here is US $535 ($509 with discounts)--and that's including the plane flight. Kings Cross & Darlinghurst Rds., Kings Cross, Sydney; tel. 011-61-2/9368-1766, fax 9368-0908; ozexperience.com. Another well-established company, The Wayward Bus (tel. 011-61-8/8232-6646, fax 8232-1455; waywardbus.com.au) operates many routes including the "Face the Outback" trip from Adelaide to Alice Springs and surroundings. South Africa It's no big surprise that hop-on/hop-off should also be popular in the other land "down under," considering that it blends the flora, fauna, and scenery of Africa with the comforts of a "first-world" country--all at spectacular prices, thanks to a favorable exchange rate and lower cost of living. The Baz Bus, founded in late 1995, runs 22-passenger coaches between Cape Town and Johannesburg along the coast at least four times a week by way of Northern Drakensberg or the tiny kingdom of Swaziland, and from Johannesburg on to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. Buses run in both directions, and there is also shuttle service from Swaziland to Maputo, capital of Mozambique, and from Victoria Falls to Livingstone, across the border in Zambia, a free shuttle is operated by a local hostel. Fares range from US $180 (one-way, Cape Town to Johannesburg via Northern Drakensberg; round-trip $315) to a truly cheap $260 (one-way, Cape Town to Victoria Falls via Swaziland; $420 round trip) and you can take as long as you want-three months or three years--to complete the journey. 8 Rosedene Rd., Sea Point, Cape Town; tel. 011-27-21/439-2323, fax 439-2343; bazbus.com. Europe The continent of Europe is so wide, mein Herr, and these days the cheapest way to cross it (up and down or side to side) is Busabout, a London-based network now in its third season and serving more than 60 of the most popular cities, from Stockholm down to M laga. Interestingly, London (being off the continent) is considered an "add-on" (US $51 for holders of the 15-day pass); similar supplemental deals let you visit Greece, Eastern Europe, even Turkey and Morocco. Passes range from 15 travel days in a two-month period ($259) or 30 days in a four-month period ($489) to an unlimited season pass (mid-April through October) for $1,109 (by contrast, a three-month youth Eurail pass costs $1,089 for people under 26). Service along most main routes runs every other day during summer months and every eighth day in Scandinavia. Guaranteed accommodations at selected hostels, bungalows, hotels, and pensions available in every city for $13-$23 a night. 258 Vauxhall Bridge Rd., London; tel. 011-44-171/950-1661, fax 950- 1662; busabout.com. There are also several local outfits, most notably Haggis Backpackers (tel. 011-44-131/557-9393, fax 558-1177), covering some 600 miles of Scottish highlands, and Turkey's Fez Travel (tel. 011-90-212/516-9024, fax 518-5085), serving Istanbul, Cappadocia, and points in between. Canada The Great White North currently boasts the only true hop-on/hop-off service in the western hemisphere. In the east, CanaBus Tours (pun intended) covers Ontario destinations like Toronto, Niagara Falls, Blue Mountain, and Algonquin Park with a US $181 pass, while out west, Moose Run Adventure Tours sets out from Vancouver on a grand exploration of spectacular natural beauties like Lake Louise and Manning Provincial Park (US $242). For $391, you can combine the two itineraries (adding $138 for one-way bus from Toronto to Vancouver or $207 for plane or train). Buses are comfy and equipped with TV and VCR--but no toilets (rest stops are generally every two hours). The season runs from May through October, and individual stops can range from three to seven days. 74 Gerrard St. East, Toronto, Ontario; tel. 877/226-2287, fax 416/977-9533; canabus.com. Moose Run Adventure Tours, 1653 Coquitlam Ave., Port Coquitlam, BC; tel. 888/388-4881, fax 604/944-3091; mooserun.com.

A trip to South America's mighty Amazon - staying in jungle lodges alongside the awesome river; swaying on rope walkways above the rainforest canopy; canoeing piranha- and crocodile-filled waters; meeting forest-dwelling tribes; seeing exotic flora and fauna-is a travel dream cherished by millions of Americans. But many of the ads that appear in Sunday newspaper travel sections or glossy magazines tout trips averaging over $200/$250 a day without airfare. Yet the very same lodges and programs are available for as little as $35 to $50 per diem if you buy them from tour operators and travel agents in Iquitos, Peru's largest Amazon port and the kickoff point for many of these tours. What the U.S. tour operators charge It isn't that the U.S. prices are outlandish, especially for such an exotic and remote destination. But every one of them exceeds $200 a day, not including airfare from the States. Thus Miami-based Eco Expeditions (800/854-0023, 305/253-3446, www.yacumama.com), which owns the well-regarded Yacumama Lodge, charges $750 per person-land only - for four-day/three-night packages and $1,350 for six-nighters (including one night in Iquitos). Colorado's Southwind Adventures (800/377-9463, 303/972-0701) asks $1,470 (land only) per person for a seven-night stay at the long-established Explorama Lodge. California's EcoAdventures, Inc. (408/558-9565, 800/326-5025) charges $1,199 for a five-day/four-night safari to an Explorama Lodge (including air from Lima), approaching $300 a night. Going right to the source Downtown Iquitos is bursting with tour and cruise operators, individual guides, and jungle lodge reps who'll sell you much the same thing - including all meals, transfers, and bilingual guided touring - not only for far less, but with more flexibility. Leave early or stay longer? No problem, unlike many programs prepaid in the States. Near Plaza de Armas (the main square), stroll along Putumayo or Pevas Streets in particular and doorways beckon with exotic offerings at lodges both remote and relatively close to town, with amenities ranging from swimming pools down to kerosene lamps and no indoor plumbing. But many tend to have a fair amount in common: thatch-roof wooden buildings connected by raised and covered plank walkways, simple wicker furniture, and local grub served buffet-style, such as river fish, chicken, beef, rice and beans, cassava, palm salad, and tropical fruit (libations are usually extra). Your activities are also similar: jungle walks, canoe expeditions (late night for stargazing, early morning for birdwatching and spotting rare pink dolphins), fishing trips (ever munched on saut,ed piranha?), and visits to local communities and Indian tribes (though in areas closer to Iquitos, visits to tribes like the Yaguas and the Boras tend to be stagey, hokey, and aggressively commercialized souvenir-buying frenzies). You can even pay $15 or so to be part of a midnight ayahuasca ceremony involving a shaman and a hallucinogenic potion made of jungle vines and leaves (bottoms up!). In addition, many lodges will often deal, especially in the low-a.k.a. rainy-season from December through May. The trick is to weed out the fly-by-nights, shady operators, and downright crooks (of which there are unfortunately more than a few in this neck of the jungle). Fortunately, the newly activist tourist office, headed by a bluff Texan named Gerald Mayeaux, will be tickled pinker than an Amazon dolphin to let you know who's kosher and who's not, in any price range; stop at the airport branch or the central office next to the El Dorado Plaza Hotel on Plaza de Armas (from the U.S., contact Mayeaux at 011-51-94/23-5621, fax /23-1271, turismo.mpm@tvs.com.pe). Feel free, then, to c'mon down and browse for the agency that fits you best in terms of price, amenities, remoteness, programs, and personality (avoid the touts shouting at you outside the airport arrivals terminal; they're not only hugely annoying but more expensive, and in some cases outright shysters). There's relatively little risk that you'll get here and find the outfit of your choice booked solid-but on the rare chance such a thing should happen during the June-to-October high season, there are plenty of other reputable, registered operators to fall back on (or you can simply book before leaving home). Following is just a sampling: Paseos Amazonicos Calle Pevas 246, tel-fax 011-51-94/23-1618, fax /23-3110, www.paseosamazonicos.com Has three thatch-roof lodges in separate locations and tends to attract a slightly more sedate clientele heavy on Peruvians. On a quiet tributary just 45 minutes by motorboat north of Iquitos and hosting up to 40 guests, its quarter-century-old Amazonas Sinchicuy Lodge, like many others, offers rustic quarters (sans electricity or hot water, but well screened and with private baths) and clowning mascots like Manolo the woolly monkey and Carlos the toucan. It serves up a congenial mix of good food, experienced guides who double as evening entertainers, and programs ranging from two days/one night for $125 (based on double occupancy) and four days/three nights for $251; slightly different - as well as longer - options are available at sister lodges Tambo Yanayacu and Tambo Amazonico (the latter 115 miles out of town). Cumaceba Lodge & Expeditions Jiron Putumayo 184, tel. 011-51-94/22-1456, fax/23-2229,www.manguare.com.pe/cumace ba About the same distance downriver as Sinchicuy (24 miles), this 20-bungalow facility run by Ricardo Pinedo and his wife also offers similar amenities (such as kerosene lamps for nighttime lighting) and services (all activities, meals, and transfers); just under half the guests are Peruvian. Two-day/one-night programs run $85 per person, two nights for $125, three for $165, and six for $350 (kids under 13 pay 60 percent). Or you can just opt for a single day's trip, with lunch and touring, for $40. Twice as far down-river, an even more rugged 'n rustic camp called Amazon Jungle Expedition is also available for two-night rates beginning at $200 a head ($150 each if there are two or three of you, less if you're a larger group). In low season, prices drop 20 percent. Muyuna Amazon Lodge & Expeditions Jiron Putumayo 163-B, 011-51-94/24-2858, www.muyuna.com One of the newest kids on the block (est. 1999) and affiliated with Hostelling International (whose discounts apply), it combines an expert guiding staff with a fresh, young approach that makes for a nice change of pace from the sometimes canned-feeling packages of longer-in-the-tooth competitors. As you'd expect, the clients they attract tend to be young, too, though ages truly do run the gamut. The eight bungalows plus dining hall are located 75 miles south of Iquitos on the tributary Rio Yanayacu, in a lake-filled area more virgin and less explored than many other lodges' environs; nighttime entertainment features an "Amazon party" with a local folkloric band and "exotic and aphrodisiac drinks." Packages include one-nighters for $110 per person (based on double occupancy) and five nights for $220; there are student discounts, per-person prices drop as your group size rises, and Muyuna's three owners are usually willing to bargain. Heliconia Amazon River Lodge Jiron Prospero 574, 011-51-94/23-5132, fax /23-2499, www.heliconialodge.com.pe A bit more upscale and amenity-equipped, it's 50 miles (one hour) north of Iquitos in the Yanamono Reserve, which boasts the world's highest density of tree species. Its 18 rooms have private baths, along with hot water mornings and evenings (Similarly, there's electricity till 10 p.m.). The basic package starts with three days/two nights for $240 per adult (or $220 each for groups of two to four, down to $180 for larger groups). You can also opt for a four-night package including two at the ACEER outdoor biology station with its famous treetop walkway ($685 per person based on double occupancy). Much closer to town (therefore slightly cheaper), Heliconia's sister lodge, Zungarococha, has 13 two-room bungalows plus goodies like a pool and even a jai alai court. For both properties, additional nights are $50 for adults, $30 for kids Amazon Rainforest Lodge Jiron Putumayo 159, 011-51-94/23-3100, fax /24-2231, www.geocities.com/rainforest/jun gle/1936 The rattan-appointed office next door to Muyuna sends visitors to a compound 28 miles away on the Mom:n tributary: 15 bungalows fanning out from a large swimming pool. Also on-premises: a mini-zoo with monkeys, macaws, and other birds which roam the grounds during the day; an 80-foot lookout tower; even a special enclosure for the ayahuasca ceremony. There's electric power until 10 p.m., and the average guest tends to be twentysomething and foreign. Rates start at $51 for a day visit and $86 for a single night (double occupancy; rates change depending on the size of your group); three nights will run $174 and six nights $330. Kids under 16 are half off, and senior citizens about 8 percent off. Jungle bound There are currently no direct flights from the U.S. to Iquitos, but a number of U.S. airlines can get you there via Lima. June coach fares to Lima on Continental (800/231-0856) are running about $524 from Miami, $793 from Newark, NJ, $824 from Houston, and $906 from Los Angeles; other carriers include American and Delta. To that add about $45 to $60 for the round-trip connection (on Aerocontinente or other domestic carriers) between Lima and Iquitos. Internationally, Aerocontinente (877/359-7378, 305/436-9400, www.aerocontinente.com.pe) is less expensive than its competitors: just $269 to $476 in June from Miami through to Iquitos. Lan Peru (800/735-5590, 305/670-5450, www.lanchile.com) can also get you to Peru for less: $259 round-trip Miami-Lima. America's best-priced Amazon packages From Intervac Tours of Miami (800/401-5897, 305/670-8990): $1,200 for four nights at Explorama plus an overnight in Lima, or the same at the simpler but still good-quality Sinchicuy Lodge for $742. Especially remarkable because these include round-trip air out of Miami. Hal Mayforth

For more than 3,000 years, splendid floor coverings made by hand in Turkey have been dazzling visitors - and Shannon E. from Flagstaff, Arizona, was no exception. Returning from a shore excursion to the resort town of Kusadasi, she cornered me on the upper deck of our delightful Orient Lines cruise, thrilled with her prize catch: a 4-by-6-foot rug with a classic "Tree of Life" pattern for only US $400. I raked my fingers over the pile: it was brittle, garishly colored, clearly poor quality. It might have sold at her local Karpet Korner for $89. As our ship sailed away from any hope of clobbering the sleaze who sold it to her, I didn't have the heart to tell Shannon she'd been had. If, like Shannon, you travel to exotic Anatolia with dreams of bringing home an exquisite memento to grace your floor, this need not happen to you. Most Turkish rug dealers are reasonably honest, and armed with the pointers below, you can acquire a unique work of art that will enhance your home, impress your friends - and even let you walk all over it. Will you save money by going to the source? The answer is usually a resounding "yes," often as much as 50 percent or more for a comparable piece in a U.S. shop (though this savings by itself wouldn't justify the cost of the trip, unless you're buying several rugs). Cutting out the middlemen, however, isn't the only source of savings: the exchange rate has plummeted in the last year ($1 now buys some 40 percent more Turkish lira than in 1999), and exaggerated fears of the now dissipating Kurdish terrorism still keep some tourists away. The result: prices are remarkably low on everything, from food to lodging to the vast array of arts and crafts for which this land is famous. True, to compensate for the devaluation of the currency, rugs are usually priced in U.S. dollars - but even so, deals abound. Three basic pointers The first step (unless you're a serious connoisseur of Oriental floor coverings) is to hire a professional shopping guide who knows his rugs. The cost - about $50 for a half day - is well worth it, because you'll reduce the risk of buying a turkey, as it were, and still save big-time. The key is to retain a guide you feel can be trusted, from a reputable, certified association (see box); never go into a shop with someone who approaches you on the street, as they generally get a 30 percent commission that comes right out of your pocket. Second, brush up on your bargaining skills. Haggling - no matter how crass it may seem - is the only way to get a fair shake. Keep in mind, too, that the asking price often has less to do with the actual product than with how rich you look. If you can't pass for a refugee from Kosovo, at least don't wear jewels or fancy loafers on your shopping day. Third, do your homework before you go. Are there quality carpet stores near your home? Go in and ask questions; feel the different materials and grades of craftsmanship. "Educate your eye and your hand," says buyer Katie McGrail of New York City's Central Carpet, one of the East Coast's top dealers, because "your eyes and your hands will tell you" if a particular piece is right for you. If it feels coarse or brittle, don't buy - it's probably inferior or even synthetic. If the colors are too bright, suspect chemical dyes (not necessarily a bad thing, but vegetal dyes will mellow over time, giving your rug that prized "aged" look). Natural dyes, in fact, are one of several factors that make a rug valuable - the others being the purity and quality of the materials (wool, cotton, or silk), number and type of knots, design, and region of origin. If you want official reassurance of quality, look for the Turkish government's DOBAG seal, which certifies the craftsmanship; such a carpet, however, will cost about 20 percent more than others of similar quality. Talking Turkey about carpets The classic Oriental consists of a wool pile knotted by hand onto a woof and warp of wool or cotton. A wool base, having a thicker fiber, makes for a rougher design, so wool-on-wool pieces tend to be rustic, with geometric tribal or nomadic patterns; they're generally less expensive than wool-on-cotton, running about $300-$400 for a 4'-by-6'. A cotton base, which allows more knots per square inch and thus more subtlety in the pattern (often floral or abstract), is more labor-intensive and expensive; a 7'-by-10' wool-on-cotton can start as low as $600 and go all the way up to $5,000 and beyond. You'll also see spectacular pieces in silk, but these are insanely expensive ($2,000-$3,000 a square meter - roughly ten square feet). The very best buys here are kilims, which are woven and flat rather than knotted and piled. Yes, they're rustic, but most are bold, beautiful, and unbeatably priced: as low as $80 for a 5'-by-7', up to $200 or so for larger sizes and $500 and up for antiques. Also, lighter weight and smaller sizes mean you can carry, rather than ship, a kilim home, additionally saving you as much as $100. As for knots, don't sweat the per-centimeter count too much, unless you're a serious collector; even a low-count rug will likely outlive you. More importantly, look at the back: if the weaving is even and you see the design clearly, it's a good piece. Make sure, too, that it will lie perfectly flat on the floor. Finally, you can visit Web sites such as carpets-and-rugs.com, rugreview.com, or rugimports.com to refine your sense of the going rates back home and make you a much better haggler. Ultimately, though, for most folks it comes down to design and color, and this is where the fun begins. The different patterns all have a story and a meaning, and are usually named after the village or region of origin. There are no fewer than 1,076 recognized regions in Turkey with several local patterns each, resulting in variations to suit just about every taste and decor. Some (but by no means all) of the less expensive rugs come from places like Doseme Alti, Yagcibedir, Kars, and Milas; all are fair- to medium-quality village rugs, selling for approximately $160 to $214 a square meter in American shops; in Istanbul you'll find them for far less. Pounding the pavement The picturesque Grand Bazaar of Istanbul is famous - but therefore also quite touristy, so most of the best carpet deals will be found elsewhere. Your shopping guide will have his or her choice rug emporia (just make sure to emphasize what your budget is), but here are four good, reputable Istanbul merchants where, with a good eye and a bit of persistence, you can walk out with a future family heirloom and a happy wallet. Mavro's Carpet and Kilims (Tavukhane Sok. 23, Sultanahmet, 90-212/517-7358) Right off the Hippodrome in the heart of the historic Sultanahmet district, this medium-size dealer offers some of the best prices in town. Mr. Bulent Ozyirmidokuz, the charming young owner, offers a fine selection of contemporary and antique knotted rugs (starting at $400 for a gorgeous 7'x10' wool-on-wool from Antalya) as well as kilims (starting around $150; keep in mind that here and below, I cite the asking price; a good bargainer should be able to knock off 20 to 30 percent). He also has some interesting possibilities for the more financially challenged who want a unique souvenir, such as cushions ($5-$12) and slippers ($20-$40) made from old kilims. Galeri Estetik (Divanyolu Caddesi Isik Sok. 10, Sultanahmet, 90-212/518-4970) A one-stop shopper's paradise, this six-story gallery sells just about every Turkish craft, from ceramics to copper pots to (naturally) rugs and kilims. Manager Nihat Yilmaz maintains a delightfully low-pressure atmosphere, too, which makes browsing a rare treat. Kilims measuring 3' x 6' start around $120, going up to $650 for a 7'x10', while wool-on-cotton or wool-on-wool rugs start around $200 for a 3'x5'. Even if you don't buy, check out the seventh-floor terrace for extraordinary views over the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sofia. Sinbad Oriental Carpets and Kilims (Sandal Bedesten Old Bazaar or 224 Terziler Sok., Kapalicarsisi, 90-212/527-1624) No trip to Istanbul is complete without a visit to the Grand Bazaar, the sixteenth-century "shopping mall" with some 5,000 shops strung along endless "streets" covered with vaulted ceilings. Closed on Sunday, it's usually not the best place for bargains, but this 28-year-old shop stands out both for quality of selection and fairness of price. Ekrem Canbeyli, whose British schooling shows in his laid-back approach, offers kilims starting at about $100 for a 4'x6' wool-on-cotton priced from $500. I recently fell in love with a marvelous piece from the town of Van, near Mount Ararat, depicting the animals from Noah's ark. Considering a size of 5'x8', the asking price of $1,300 was a bit steep for me - but then it was wool and silk on cotton. Bergama Gallery (Arasta Carsisi 167, Sultanahmet, 90-212/517-6807) For the savvy, the Grand Bazaar is great for sightseeing, but when it's time to whip out the plastic, they head for the seventeenth-century Arasta Bazaar, a smaller outdoor version where prices are lower thanks to government-subsidized rents and lower tourist turnout-surprising, considering that it's literally around the corner from the Blue Mosque. There's no dearth of carpet vendors, and the small two-story shop at number 167 is among the very best, offering a somewhat limited selection but superior bargains. Mehmet Oguzhan, a wiry, nervous Kurd, has been a rug man for more than 20 years, and his passion and knowledge show. Four-by-six wool-on-wools start around $250, wool-on-cottons around $500, and 3'x5' kilims around $100. Mehmet claims he doesn't like to bargain, discounting only about ten percent, but Yavuz, my very Westernized guide, later confides that Mehmet is a haggle-hound and can be tough. It was at Bergama, in fact, that my own skills were recently and quickly put to the test as his acici (shop assistant) unrolled a stunning 7'x10' from the well-regarded Kayseri region. Mehmet started at $1,100 - considerably more than I could afford. After many offers and counter-offers, we settled on $800. Did I land a winner? I didn't know for sure until I came home, where I found a similar-quality rug from Kayseri at New York City's huge ABC Carpet & Home showroom - for $1,800. And as for my own rug, all the salesmen I showed it to said they'd never seen anything like it. Bingo. More info To hire a reputable guide, contact the Chamber of Istanbul Tourguides (011-90-212/240-2523, turizm.net); one I can recommend personally is Mr. Yavuz Ozdeniz (011-90-216/332-6726). Also, the Turkish Tourist Office in New York City (212/687-2194 or 877/FOR-TURKEY, tourismturkey.org) publishes a guide that includes shopping information. Kilims, such as the three woven rugs pictured here, are rustic, but most are bold and beautiful and unbeatably priced. Nick Wheeler (2); Sheila McKinnon/Dave G. Houser//The Grand Bazaar of Istanbul. Robert Frerck/Stone//Young workers at the Anatolia Carpet Manufacturing Company in Cappadocia. Jeff Greenberg/Photo Researchers, Inc.

To many, West Virginia remains a hardscrabble state scraped raw in the quest to transform coal into money, a place where miners cough up black dust and farmers break plows on rock-embedded fields. This is the popular image and to some extent it is true even today. The coal mines and the rocky farms still exist in pockets and patches, along with the people who work them. The difference now is that visitors must search to see the truly impoverished face of West Virginia. Nevertheless, it should come as little surprise that West Virginia is one of the cheapest places on earth. Though desperate poverty seems relatively uncommon these days, the state lags behind the national average in weekly wages, dramatically in some industries: more than 38 percent in computer programming services, for example, and more than 27 percent in millwork. The coal business that had been West Virginia's economic backbone is alive but struggling, fiercely battling to overturn a 1999 Federal ruling that drastically restricts the strip mining technique accurately called "mountaintop removal." All this results in amazingly low prices for lodging and food (if you avoid the national chains), free tourist attractions for the most part, and nominal admissions for the places that do charge. Getting there and around You can fly into Charleston's compact, convenient Yeager Airport, but you'll need a rental car to get around the state. The cheaper alternative for residents of the eastern United States is simply to drive - and it's a quick trip for millions of people. West Virginia is just two hours by automobile from Washington, D.C., Baltimore, Pittsburgh and Cleveland, only a slightly longer haul from Richmond, Cincinnati, and Charlotte. Chicago is seven hours away. West Virginia isn't as tiny as many people may imagine: It's more than three times the size of New Jersey. But the state is small enough that you can tour much of it comfortably in five days. Though the interstates connect major regions, many of the best sights are accessible only on the narrow, twisting roads that thread through the mountains and hollows. These are great fun if you enjoy driving, miserable if you don't. Still, the native motorists seem mostly cautious and polite. And you can console yourself with the knowledge that you'll probably be very safe whenever you get where you're going - West Virginia has had the lowest crime rate in the nation for 24 consecutive years. The state's top tourist lures There are far more reasons to visit West Virginia than any magazine article can name. One of the best is the state's natural beauty - a landscape that seems a hybrid of Colorado and Vermont, with jagged outcroppings of rock among round, wooded mountaintops. Many of the residents seem as rugged as their mountains, but they also are pleasant and unpretentious. Together, the scenery and people lend vacations here a down-home, welcoming feel. Outdoor enthusiasts can white-water raft, ski, bicycle, fish, hunt - even parachute into a nearly 900-foot-deep gorge. And less adventurous travelers will find more than enough reasons to park the car often while touring West Virginia's roadways. Charleston Some may want to begin their visit in Charleston, the capital. Located on the Kanawha River (pronounced "kan-AW" by locals), the city feels old and industrial, with red-brick construction and one-way streets everywhere. Because of the road system, getting around town isn't easy. Still it's worth the effort to enjoy some of Charleston's sights and sounds. For starters, visit the impressive state capital, where the broad limestone building rises to a gold dome towering 293 feet-taller than the U.S. Capitol dome. Tours are free every day (304/558-0220). Nearby sits the historic East End, a lovely National Register of Historic Places neighborhood where you can take a walking tour past homes that look much as they did in the teens and 1920's (304/342-7676 or call the Charleston convention and Visitor's Bureau, 304-344-5075). If you're in town on Sunday, you may be able to get into a taping of the West Virginia Public Radio's popular program, "Mountain Stage." The internationally broadcast show features top musicians performing in a vast array of musical styles and includes big-name stars of blues, alternative, and bluegrass music. Ticket prices vary but are always modest, from only $5.50 to about $12 (304/556-4900). Malden and Parkersburg Just 20 minutes from Charleston, the tiny valley town of Malden cradles among its surrounding hills one of the nation's last quilting co-ops. Cabin Creek Quilts was formed in the early 1970s, gaining fame partly through purchases by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. Today, the quilts still are handmade in the homes of Malden-area women. You can view the intricate handiwork for free at their shop - or buy anything from a $6.50 potholder to $985 quilts (304/925-9499). About 1 hour north is Parkersburg, known as "the town that oil built." This Ohio River city offers its own free walking tour through history, with buildings along brick-paved Ann Street dating as far back as the 1825 Cookhouse(304/428-1130). There's also the Oil & Gas Museum, where for $2 ($1 for kids) you can learn about the rich background of this oil-soaked region (304/485-5446). Or for $6 ($5 for children) take a stern-wheeler boat to the Blennerhassett Island Historical State Park (304/420-4800). Visit the reconstructed mansion filled with eighteenth-century furnishings for another $3, hop a narrated horse-drawn wagon ride for $4, or check out the museum for a $2. Williamstown and Monongahela National Forest Another 20-minute drive north brings you to Williamstown, home of world-famous Fenton Art Glass (304/375-7772). Don't miss it. The company's museum displays an extensive exhibit of fine glass from 1880 through 1980, and there's a 25-minute film in the adjoining theater. Or take the 45-minute guided tour, where you'll see the entire glassmaking process at close range, including the designing, molding, and painting of these prized pieces. Best of all, everything is free. Drive southeast a few hours to Monongahela National Forest, where you'll find some of the state's most spectacular scenic attractions. Be sure to include Canaan Valley, Cranberry Backcountry, and Seneca Rocks, a dramatic natural sculpture of gray quartzite that juts almost 900 feet high. You can hike trails from the Seneca Rocks visitor center - or for $25, ride horseback to the top mid-April to November. Anyone with even a vague interest in the cosmos should stop by the National Radio Astronomy Observatory (304/456-2011) at Green Bank, about 45 miles southwest of Seneca Rocks. It is among the elite astronomical research sites on earth, with the world's largest fully steerable radio telescope: the Green Bank Telescope, taller than the Statue of Liberty (daily Memorial Day through Labor Day, and weekends in September and October). Take a free guided tour of the array of scopes that search for clues to such things as how stars form, the age of the universe-and whether extraterrestrial life exists. Civil War sites Continuing southwest about 40 miles, make time for visits at two free state parks overseen by the same delightful superintendent, native West Virginian Michael Smith (304/653-4254). He's a natural storyteller who gladly recounts detailed stories of Civil War battles fought at what is now Droop Mountain Battlefield State Park, a bluff where Federal forces effectively drove outnumbered Confederate troops from the just-established state. Walk the grounds with Smith and savor the history lesson. Then drive to nearby Beartown State Park. This 107-acre natural area has one of the most unusual boardwalks anywhere, with dozens of steps that wind through enchanting natural sandstone rock formations - crevasses, cliffs, and boulders all set among a thick forest. Lewisburg, Beckley's Coal Mine, and New River Gorge Next, tour historic Lewisburg (800/833-2068) about 30 minutes away, a community restored to become one of the state's most charming towns. You can walk through the Old Stone Church that was built in 1796, look over a slave graveyard, or take a walking tour of the many eighteenth- and nineteenth-century buildings. It's all free. Then jump on Interstate 64 to Beckley for this unique part of a West Virginia vacation: the Beckley Exhibition Coal Mine (304/256-1747). Open April to November, the mine began in the late 1800s as a "low seam" operation, meaning miners literally crawled inside a 30-inch high shaft to dig coal. Today, the full-size mine operates for tourists, who ride more than 1,000 feet inside the earth in coal cars, guided by a veteran miner. It's not for the claustrophobic, but the visit is safe and engrossing - your guide makes frequent stops, demonstrating equipment and explaining mining techniques. Adults pay $8, seniors $7, kids 4-12 cost $5, and younger children are free. At least one more sight shouldn't be missed in West Virginia: the impressive New River Gorge National River at Fayetteville. Supervised by the National Park Service, this narrow canyon lies about 30 minutes north of Beckley and costs nothing to enjoy. The visitor center affords photographic views of the world's longest single-arch bridge, rising 876 feet above the New River. You can drive across the New River Gorge Bridge, but once each autumn it's closed to traffic for the slightly mad enjoyment of skydivers and rappellers. The gorge also has lots of hiking trails and the area is a white-water rafting mecca. Lodgings The budget lodging available in West Virginia is alone enough to qualify this as one of the world's cheapest places - as low as $15 a night. You'll nearly always find the best bargains by sticking with locally owned motels. And they're spread nicely around the state so you can ramble from night to night, rather than limit yourself to a single home base. To ensure a great deal, drop by one of nine spots that give out free coupon books providing substantial savings on accommodations - nearly 20 percent in some cases. You'll find the booklets at official state "welcome centers" located in Harper's Ferry or along the interstates near Huntington, White Sulfur Springs, Valley Grove, Mineral Wells, Morgantown, Falling Waters, and Inwood. Tamarack, the popular arts and crafts center in Beckley, also has coupons. Dial 800/CALL-WVA for more information. One other tip: you can make toll-free reservations through these welcome centers. Because of their relationship with local owners, center staffers nearly always nail down the cheapest possible rates. Fairmont Fairmont, near I-79 in north central West Virginia, is a perfect first-night stopover for anyone driving from Pennsylvania, Maryland, or other points north. And it offers a profusion of good, low-priced motels. The two-story Country Club Motor Lodge (304/366-4141) looks more contemporary than the others. It's AAA-rated and all rooms are $26.95. There's also the Avenue Motel (304/366-4960), where the $30 rooms are newly carpeted and wallpapered, with nice bedspreads and drapes. And the Fairmont Motor Lodge (304/363-0100) is the kind of place you hope to find in small-town America. It even has a lobby that resembles a living room, complete with fresh coffee, home-baked cookies, and jigsaw puzzles. Built in 1956 and still operated by the Schmidt family, the hotel offers spotlessly clean rooms with excellent personal service. Room rates vary somewhat seasonally, but go as low as $29.95. Elkins In Elkins, bordering the Monongahela Forest, the Four Seasons Motel (800/367-7130) provides a pleasant haven, especially for senior citizens. Its perma-stone 1960s appearance is misleading; all rooms were completely renovated in 1999, some with king-size beds. Plus there's an unusually friendly touch upon check-in: Guests get a free three-minute phone call home to let family members know they've arrived safely. A single room is $34, but with an AARP discount two can stay for $32. Marlinton Some fine bargains can be found in and around Marlinton, a quaint town well-located for skiers at nearby Snowshoe Mountain or tourists at Monongahela National Forest, Droop Mountain, or the National Radio Astronomy Observatory. Linwood Lodge (304/572-BUNK) rests at the mountain's foot and is popular with the college ski crowd. You probably won't find a cheaper place to sleep outside the developing world. This 600-square-foot home has been turned into a bunkhouse, where you get a bunk bed for $15 weeknights, $18 weekends. Bring your own linens and towels or pay a $5 one-time charge for theirs. It's bare-bones but clean, with a white pine exterior, and wood loors inside. Eight can sleep here in three bunk beds and a pullout couch. Four miles south of Marlinton is Graham's Motel (304/799-4291), a homey place with rocking chairs on the porch and eight rooms, each decorated differently. Some have cherry four-poster beds. A single goes for $30, a double for $35. For families, consider the Old Clark Inn (304/799-6377), a folksy B&B that feels like staying in a private home-including the presence of two young, well-behaved children. Prices may seem outside budget range: $45 for shared bath, $55 with private bath $10 more, during ski season. But the room comes with a sumptuous breakfast worth perhaps $15. Lewisburg, Beckley, and Fayetteville Enjoy Lewisburg's charm without its high prices by staying at The Embassy Inn (800/260-8641), where you can sack out for as little as $29 with a coupon. The motel has modern rooms with new beds and carpets. Juice, coffee, and pastries are free in the morning. Mention this article for the lowest seasonal rate, owner Arthur Dodson recently told us. Farther west in Beckley, there are plenty of budget options. At the Greenbank Motel (304/253-3355) rooms in the 1940's block building go for $35 and up. Several miles away, the Patriot Motor Inn (304/253-3395) will put you up for the same price, with a coupon. The rooms are on the dark side, but their enamel paint shines under the lights. You may find some of that enamel peeling a bit, though the exterior looks fine and the rooms are adequate. Beckley's Honey In The Rock Motel (304/252-7391) is another possibility, where a double bed is $35 in winter. The rooms are enormous and clean, with an old-motel feel that may appeal to veteran bargain-hunters. The Fayetteville area's funky choices include the Midland Trail Motel (304/658-5065) in Ansted, with its hand-painted outdoor sign and clean, standard rooms that come as cheap as $35 for two people. The New River Lodge (304/632-2121) in Gauley Bridge is funkier yet, built in 1932 and showing its age. Still, the lobby is especially pleasant, the bathroom floors are old-fashioned black-and-white tile, and the price is $29.95/single, $35/double. Charleston Back in Charleston, your best bet is Cutlip's Motor Inn (304/345-3500), where $33.95 gets you a good double bed in a typical motel room. But locals know Cutlip's as a family-run place with a strong reputation for cleanliness and safety. Or you can pick the Budget Host Inn (304/925-2592), where some rooms overlook the Kanawha River. Rates are seasonal but bottom out at $27.95 for one person, $34.95 for two. Then there's the Days Inn in St. Albans (304/766-6231), just seven miles west of the city. It offers clean rooms, white and teal walls, and decent prices starting at $26.95 for a single, $36.95 for a double. Finally, up north near Parkersburg try Microtel Inn (304/489-3892), built in 1998. Standard rooms with two queen beds go for $34.95. Cheap eats West Virginia's most interesting cuisine is essentially Southern country-style. Brown beans and corn bread, country ham, and mountain trout are among the local dishes worth sampling. As with lodgings, you should stay away from big chains when you can. This is easy enough. Many places tucked along back roads promise "Good Home Cookin'" - and often deliver. These are among specific choices for a good meal at a good price. In Charleston try Joey's (304/343-8004), with three locally famous joints that serve West Virginia barbecue. For $8.95 you get ribs or chicken, baked beans or green beans, and a roll. If you're in the mood for Mexican, Azteca's (304/344-3660) is the place to get lots of food, fast service - and a small check. An example: a bean burrito, bean tostada, cheese enchilada, and nacho cheese costs $6.99. In Parkersburg, The Crystal Cafe (304/428-5680) makes a great spot for breakfast or lunch. Two eggs with bacon or sausage are $2.80, coffee 85 cents Or try the unlimited soup bar with tossed salad and homemade sourdough bread for $3.99. On the way to Monongahela National Forest, stop in Clarksburg for the laid-back CyberPerks Internet Cafe (304/622-5770). Customers can surf the Internet at four computer workstations while downing a ham-and-egg croissant with cheese for $2.35. For meals as for accommodations, Marlinton again has some of the best values. The River Place Restaurant (304/799-7233) beside the free-flowing Greenbrier River is a true find. An exceptionally bright, clean place, this restaurant serves plenty of delicious food for next to nothing. Two eggs with grits and a hotcake cost $2.95. Most sandwiches are in the $2-$3 range, and a filling helping of brown beans and fabulous sweet corn bread is $2.25. For dinner, rainbow trout is $9.95, country ham $8.95, and baked ham $6.95 - and they come with potato, coleslaw or applesauce, and rolls. Lewisburg's historic General Lewis Inn (304/645-2600) is a country guesthouse that's outside the budget range for rooms, but very affordable for breakfast or lunch, offering Belgian waffles with pure maple syrup and spiced apples for $3.95 or fine sandwiches with potato salad and pickles for around $3-$4. After eating, you can also enjoy the lovely common areas, with antiques everywhere, a wood-beamed ceiling, and pleasant fireplace. Finally, make certain you visit Tamarack (888/262-7225), that intriguing place in Beckley offering what is surely the best bargain-priced food in West Virginia. The architecturally modern building is designed in the round, presenting work from the state's finest artists and craftspeople. These pieces are for sale, and prices run the gamut from cheap to exorbitant. Tamarack also shows free films about the state and offers crafts demonstrations and performing arts. Its cafeteria-style restaurant is managed by The Greenbrier, a luxurious resort that has attracted the wealthy for more than a century, but here the excellent food costs very little. An Appalachian egg biscuit with country ham, fried green tomato, and Swiss cheese is $1.95. The Italian sausage and roasted-pepper pizza goes for $3.95. And a West Virginia rainbow trout fillet costs $6.50, fresh vegetables $1.25, country-fried potatoes $1.25. Stroll around the exhibits, buy a keepsake if you want, but by all means stay for a meal. Tamarack's food is so good and so cheap that you'll likely want to relish it more than once - much like West Virginia itself.