Low-cost Dorm Stays in Central London

By Kathy Oliver
June 4, 2005
Virtually unknown to most tourists are these university residence halls in central locations

A friend from Arizona--who at 75 still flits annually from European capital to European capital with the energy of a 40-year-old--is one of budget travel's shoestring supremos. Her entire life's been dedicated to the pursuit of travel happiness, but only on the tightest of budgets, with planning and skill. So when she told me that on her last vacation she stayed in central London at the height of the summer season for a rock-bottom £22 ($35.70) a night, with breakfast, and in a single room to boot, I knew I was on the brink of a momentous information breakthrough. I subsequently discovered my friend's secret weapon in her war against sky-high London hotel rates: university accommodations when students are on summer break. Hundreds of these academic bargains often go begging right in the heart of summer London, some in brand new buildings, others in charming period town houses, many including superb English breakfasts right down to sausages and kippers, some even offering valuable self-catering facilities for visitors preferring to eat in. For reasons puzzling if not inexplicable, they are absent from many travel guidebooks and usually booked only by groups using academic contacts, even though they are fully available to individuals of all ages.

The exact name for these digs, in British parlance, is "halls of residence"--and they are attached to the 30-or-so colleges and schools of two giant English institutions: London University and City University. Instead of lying empty during long summer vacations, they're available to tourists from approximately mid- to late June until mid- to late September. Exact dates vary from hall to hall. (There are also rooms available during the long Easter holiday.)

Big savings, superb locations, and wonderful choice are the attractions of staying in "halls." Obviously, they do not supply a hotel-style experience. They provide no frills. You won't find room service or fancy decor. The bedrooms, however, are certainly adequately furnished, or "kitted out" as the British say. And while you might not have your own bathroom (although many "halls" do now offer private facilities at a slightly higher rate--more about that later), walking a few paces down the corridor to shared facilities is a small price to pay for rock-bottom rates slap-bang in the middle of one of the world's most exciting capitals.

A typical hall bedroom is small--but hey!--small can be beautiful, especially if the price is right. It's usually very basically furnished with a bed (linen supplied), closet, bedside table, desk and chair, easy chair, curtains and carpet. Private bathrooms, where available, are also compact and functional, usually with a stall shower, toilet, and sink. Older-style residences--such as Wellington Hall (built 1913) at King's College or the Edwardian Pembridge Gardens (Imperial College)--have larger, unusually shaped rooms with high ceilings. In these halls, private bathrooms vary in size too. One, at Pembridge Gardens, contains a bath big enough to soak a small army in!

Between London and City Universities, there are actually thousands of budget beds on offer during summer. But beds this cheap in central London don't stay empty for long, and most of these halls take groups. It's imperative for individual travelers to reserve as soon as possible from the rest of the halls' stock. Also, because these are university residences, there are many more single rooms than twins available. So for shared accommodation, book early or be prepared to accept two single rooms instead.

Here's what's available to you:

Ramsay Hall, University College London, 20 Maple Street, London W1P 5GB; tel. 011-44/20-7387-4537; fax 20-7383-0843; e-mail ramsay.hall@ucl.ac.uk.

The 462-room Ramsay Hall comprises four buildings-aptly named "Paris," "New York," "Rome," and "London." This modern residence is ideally situated for the West End and London's theaterland. Oxford and Regent Streets are a short walk away, as is the British Museum. Guests stay at Ramsay on a room-and-breakfast (mostly singles) or half-board basis. All rooms have sinks; baths and toilets are down the corridor. Bed linen and hand towels are provided.

Prices: Room and breakfast for less than seven nights: £24.10. More than seven nights: £22. Individual rates on half-board basis under seven nights: £30. Over seven nights: £27.90. Summer availability in 2000: June 19 to mid-September. Nearest Underground stops: Goodge Street, Warren Street, Euston, Euston Square, Great Portland Street.

Campbell House, University College London, Residence Manager, 5-10 Taviton Street, London WC1H OBX; tel. 011-44-20-7391-1479; fax 7388-0060.

On an elegant, tree-lined street in the heart of Bloomsbury, this is a residence comprising 11 early Victorian, converted town houses. Accommodation is self-catering. Guests use the large, well-equipped kitchens. As at Ramsay, bathrooms are down the hall. Towels are not provided, but bed linen is.

Prices: Single room under seven nights: £18.25. Over seven nights: £16.75. Twin room under seven nights: £34.50. Over seven nights: £32.50. Summer availability in 2000: June 19 to mid-September. Nearest Underground stops: Russell Square, Euston, Euston Square. Incidentally, Campbell House operates a useful "hospitality desk" in summer, manned by knowledgeable students and staff who'll point out some of the area's best bargain eateries. Campbell House has a good selection of twin rooms but no elevators.

London School of Economics (LSE) Halls, Marketing Office, Bankside House, 24A Sumner Street, London SE1 9JA; tel. 011-44-20-7955-7575; fax 7955-7676; e-mail vacations@lse.ac.uk; Web site lse.ac.uk/vacations.

Bargain accommodation is available in six buildings belonging to LSE. Bankside House is LSE's flagship residence, with significantly larger rooms than you'd expect in most halls and indeed some London hotels. Besides being modern and spacious, the vast majority of accommodations (singles, twins, triples) have private bathrooms. Walking down the mauve-carpeted hallways, you could be forgiven for thinking you're actually in a hotel. The contemporary bedroom furniture, attractive quilt covers, and cheerful curtains also wouldn't be out of place in a modern hotel. But it's Bankside's location that's really stunning. You're opposite the site of the breathtaking new "Tate Modern" art gallery. You're a two-minute walk from Shakespeare's Globe Theatre. You're near some of London's best Thames-side treasures such as the Royal Festival Hall, Southwark Cathedral, and the HMS Belfast. Waterloo International Terminal, with Eurostar trains direct to Paris, Lille, and Brussels, is a fifteen-minute walk away.

LSE's second major residence, Passfield Hall, is a row of late Georgian houses in Bloomsbury, especially popular with backpackers and young people. The standard bedrooms (singles, twins, or triples) are bathless - these are down the hall - but there are sinks in each room. Elsewhere, Carr-Saunders Hall is off Tottenham Court Road and minutes from the theater district and West End attractions. This 1960s/1970s building offers singles and twins (bathrooms down the corridor). Next, Rosebery Avenue Hall--near Sadler's Wells Theatre and bustling Camden Passage antiques market--is in Islington, one of London's most distinctive areas. It offers singles, twins, and triples, most with shared bathrooms but some twins with private facilities. The Myddleton Wing at Rosebery has units of four bedrooms sharing a bathroom, shower, and kitchenette. English breakfast is included, eaten in the dining room or on the garden patio.

LSE's remaining two halls are Butlers Wharf and High Holborn Residence, offering self-catering flats with mostly single bedrooms for four to seven people. Butlers Wharf is near Tower Bridge, HMS Belfast, and the Tower of London. The brand-new High Holborn Residence is sited in a prime location at the top of Drury Lane, opposite the Shaftesbury Theatre in the heart of the West End.

Prices: Prices vary across the LSE range of halls. A bathless single at Carr-Saunders Hall, for example, is between £22 and £27 per night, while a single with private bathroom at Bankside costs £41 per night. Both include English breakfast. Summer availability in 2000: July 8 to the end of September. Nearest Underground stops: Waterloo, London Bridge, Blackfriars (Bankside); Euston, Euston Square, Russell Square (Passfield); Warren Street, Goodge Street (Carr-Saunders); Angel, Farringdon (Rosebery Avenue); Tower Hill, London Bridge (Butlers Wharf) and Holborn, Tottenham Court Road (High Holborn). And another thing-all rooms have card-operated telephones (£2 phone cards available from the front desk).

King's College, Vacation Bureau, King's College London, 127 Stamford Street, London SE1 9NQ; tel. 011-44-20-7928- 3777; fax 011-44-20-7928-5777; e-mail vac.bureau@kcl.ac.uk.

King's offers good-quality, inexpensive accommodation for individuals at four halls. You can stay, first, on a room-only basis in the modern Great Dover Street Apartments on the Thames's South Bank, 15 minutes' walk from London Bridge Station. Here, self-contained corridors have four to nine compact, functionally furnished (mostly single) bedrooms, each with an equally compact bathroom. There are kitchens in every corridor but over the summer, they're not equipped with utensils, cutlery, or crockery, although you may use the microwave, stove, toaster, and kettle. Each bedroom has a small refrigerator. Or, opt for the similarly organized Stamford Street Apartments two minutes from Waterloo Station. Those who enjoy a more traditional environment (at even cheaper rates) choose the Edwardian Wellington Hall, which has bathless but generously sized singles and twins with sinks (bathrooms on each floor), and is a short walk from Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, Big Ben, and Houses of Parliament. For even more of a bargain but a bit further afield in north London, try the Hampstead Campus. This is the only hall in our selection outside London's Travel Zone 1. Even though it's in Travel Zone 2, we couldn't fail to mention it-because a sink-equipped single room here (breakfast not included, bathrooms down the hall) is an astounding o17 per night! Twins are £29.

Prices: Ranging from £17 for a single (Hampstead Campus, room only) to £26/single and £40/twin at Wellington Hall (with English breakfast) to £30/£33 (single room only) at Great Dover Street/Stamford Street Apartments. Twins at Great Dover Street (a very limited number) are £47. Summer availability in 2000: June 19 to September 15 (Wellington Hall and Hampstead Campus); July 5 to September 15 (Great Dover and Stamford Streets Apartments). Nearest Undergrounds: London Bridge (Great Dover Street); Waterloo (Stamford Street); Westminster (Wellington); Hampstead (Hampstead). And another thing-Wellington Hall's oak-paneled dining room boasts a lofty ceiling and a wall of stunning stained-glass windows that you can admire over breakfast.

Imperial College, Rooms Division, Conference Office, Imperial College of Science, Technology and Medicine, Watts Way, Prince's Gardens, London SW7 1LU; tel. 011-44-20-7594-9507 or 7594-9511; fax 7594-9504 or 7594-9505; e-mail reservations@ic.ac.uk.

Imperial College's excellent-value halls are in two of London's most popular areas. Tumble out of bed at Southside, Linstead, or Weeks Halls in Prince's Gardens, South Kensington, and within a few minutes' walk you're at the Victoria and Albert Museum, the Natural History and Science Museums, or the Royal Albert Hall. Add another ten minutes and you're at Knightsbridge's world-famous Harrods department store. If you fell in love with the movie Notting Hill, you'll be head-over-heels with the location of Imperial's other residence: Pembridge Gardens, Notting Hill. It's only two minutes from the colorful Portobello Road market and a stroll away from some of London's liveliest eateries and bars. For two weeks this September, and from Easter 2001, over 200 new superior bedrooms, most with private bathrooms, will be available at the refurbished Beit Hall adjacent to the Royal Albert Hall, venue for the world-famous summer concert series, the "Proms."

Prices: At Southside, Linstead, and Weeks, rates are £35 (including English breakfast) for a standard bathless single with wash basin (£55 for a twin). At Pembridge Gardens, a standard single with sink is £35; a standard twin £55; a single with private bathroom £45.50, a twin with private bathroom £65--all including a continental breakfast in a basket in your room. Bed and English breakfast at Beit Hall in September will be £42 for a bathless single, £58 for a single with bathroom, and £76 for a twin with bathroom. Summer availability in 2000: July 3 to September 24 (Prince's Gardens and Pembridge Gardens); September 14-25 (Beit). Nearest Undergrounds: South Kensington (Prince's Gardens and Beit); Notting Hill Gate (Pembridge Gardens). And another thing-visitors at Imperial's halls may use the college sports center in Prince's Gardens. For a nominal "activity fee," the 25-meter swimming pool, Jacuzzi, squash courts, sauna, steam room, and fitness center beckon.

Walter Sickert Hall, City University, Graham Street, London N1 8LA; tel 011- 44-20-7477-8822; fax 7477 8825; e-mail i.gibbard@city.ac.uk; Web site city.ac.uk/ems.

Near the City of London and trendy Islington, with easy access to West End attractions, you'll find City University's recently opened Walter Sickert Hall. Carpeted corridors and marble-walled staircases (there's also an elevator) lead to 220 compact but immaculately clean, functional bedrooms, with private bathrooms, tea/coffee-making facilities and telephones. Rooms here are serviced daily. There are mainly single rooms with a very limited number of twins. Nine "executive" guest rooms are available throughout the year and even have televisions. You're five minutes' walk to the world-renowned Sadler's Wells Theatre and Camden Passage Saturday antiques market.

Prices: Single £30, executive single £35; executive twin £50 (all-inclusive, with continental basket-breakfast in your room). Summer availability in 2000: June 22 to mid-September. Nearest Underground stop: Angel at Islington.

Plan Your Next Getaway
Keep reading

20 Secret Bargains of Orlando

When taxes are toted up, the cost of admission to an Orlando theme park-the Magic Kingdom, Epcot, Universal Studios Islands of Adventure, Universal Studios Florida, Animal Kingdom, Disney-MGM Studios, or SeaWorld-now amounts to a surprising $48.76 per adult, for one day. Children pay $39.22. While you can reduce the pain a bit by purchasing a multiday ticket, the outlay remains sizable-and unavoidable. Consequently, it has never been more important for a cost-conscious visitor (especially a family) to reduce all the other costs of an Orlando stay-airfare, housing, meals, local transport, and evening entertainment-as much as possible. And that's where we come in. One of us is an actual resident of Orlando, the other a frequent visitor. Together, we've been storing up those cost-saving strategies and tactics for more years than we care to remember, and here's what we've learned: Note: unless otherwise indicated, you'll need to dial 407 before all the numbers below (even when you're in the Orlando area itself). 1. Timing is everything The low-cost Orlando off-season is more complex and scattered than in other tourist locales. Lowest visitor figures (and therefore lowest general prices) are in the several weeks just after Thanksgiving and immediately prior to Christmas. The period after Labor Day and up to just before Thanksgiving is almost as slow. January, immediately after the New Year's holiday, is relatively quiet. But things pick up considerably in mid-February and zoom into high gear in March and April. May is so-so; June, July, and August are peak. Schedule your trip for the quiet times, and you'll pay way less than other visitors for rooms and more. 2. A timely package The pricing of airline packages follows the ups and downs of traffic to Orlando, dipping considerably in quiet months. Thus, in the low-season month of May (and in later off-season times, too), a US Airways Vacations package (call 800/451-6767, usairwaysvacations.com) for round-trip air and six nights in an EconoLodge one mile from the entrance to Disney World, can cost as little as $346 per person from New York, $394 from Chicago, and $311 out of Nashville (many other gateways available on request). But the same air-and-land rates jump in June, July, and August, and then come down in fall. 3. Fly to Melbourne and save The little-known airport at Melbourne, Florida, 75 minutes by rental car from Orlando, occasionally features airfares lower than those you'd pay to Orlando. We stress "occasionally," not always. It pays to check the fares to Melbourne (like those rock-bottom rates on Spirit Airlines from New York's LaGuardia, phone 800/772-7117, or on Delta Air Lines via its hub in Atlanta) whenever you plan an Orlando trip. And when you check airfares to Orlando, not Melbourne, you should always try the various cut-rate carriers flying there, not only Southwest (800/435-9792), AirTran (800/247-8726), Sun Country (800/752-1218), and the like, but also those low-fare subsidiaries of the biggies: Delta subsidiary Delta Express (800/221-1212) and US Airways subsidiary MetroJet (800/428-4322). 4. Come equipped with a discount card Before your trip, send for a free "Orlando Magicard," which grants discounts (in some cases up to 50 percent) to parties of up to six people when presented at 83 businesses as far afield as Daytona Beach and Cape Canaveral, including attractions, accommodations, restaurants, car rentals, and shopping malls. Call 800/643-9492 or 407/363-5872 (or log onto Go2orlando.com), and the Orlando/Orange County Convention and Visitors Bureau will mail you the credit-card-size Magicard along with lots of other useful information about central Florida. 5. The Good Book also saves Another moneysaver, which costs $30 but can save you more than the Magicard and many times its purchase price, is the Orlando version of the Entertainment Book, a compendium (the size of a thickish guidebook) of coupons and a detachable card good for discounted dining, movies, attractions, shops, shows, and a few hotels. Examples: two-for-one entrees at downtown's chic Harvey's Bistro and various other fancy eateries; 20 percent off Budget rental cars; half off some hotel rack rates. Phone Entertainment at 800/445-4137 or 407/425-0057, or check out entertainment.com. 6. Head immediately for the real "Center" Avoid the various "tourist info" and "welcome" centers that have set up shop along many a local road; some are excuses for a time-share come-on or some similar scam. Instead, head to the more helpful but much less high-profile Orlando/Orange County Official Visitor Center at 8723 International Dr. (at Austrian Row), where the very helpful folks can provide a slew of money-saving leads, as well as brochures, maps, and guidebooks. What's more, the center can save you bucks in even more direct ways, such as its "Little Black Book," a looseleaf-bound listing of rooms that local hostelries are letting go at discounts of up to 50 percent. Every morning, Orlando hotels with upcoming vacancies phone in dramatically reduced room rates for that evening, which the Center's staff dutifully enters into the "Little Black Book." Orlando's savviest tourists check out that volume upon arrival, and thereafter rent their rooms at considerable savings. Then, too, there are the center's racks of various coupon booklets offering slight to significant discounts on lots of lodgings and attractions. 7. Save, too, by staying in Kissimmee Orlando proper is far from the only game in central Florida; in fact, just six miles south (and right near Disney's main gate) is the city of Kissimmee, a quaint small town (see below) whose "strip," U.S. Highway 192 (a.k.a. Irlo Bronson Memorial Parkway) is chockablock with the area's least expensive eateries and lodgings (boasting names like "Budget Inn," "Thriftlodge," and "Economy Motel," along with many nationally known chains). Good bets for $30 to $40 a night per family include Days Inn Kissimmee (2095 U.S. 192 E., 800/352-2192, fax 407/846-8423), Sleep Inn (8536 U.S. 192 W., 800/225-0086, fax 407/396-1971), and, just off 192, the pretty, old-fashioned-style Venture Motel (1307 N. Main St., tel./fax 407/846-6333). Open daily 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., the Kissimmee-St. Cloud Convention & Visitors Bureau (1925 U.S. 192 E. at Bill Beck Blvd.) is an excellent resource, too. Visit for a wealth of free brochures, coupon books, and advice from clued-in staffers, or just use its phenomenal central reservations number (800/333-5477) to choose from a pool of 80 lodgings, from upscale to rock-bottom. Reservationists who answer that remarkable number (and you can call them before traveling here) will try hard to find you a room for the exact maximum price you specify; unlike some such bureaus, they represent everyone impartially and will search hard for a budget bed. Otherwise, contact the CVB at 407/847-5000 or floridakiss.com. 8. Use Orlando's discount hotel brokers Orlando is also a veritable hotbed of clearinghouses for rooms that local (and often nonlocal) hotels need to unload by hook or by crook, and in general they provide good availability and rates sometimes discounted up to 50 percent. With Discount Hotels America (877/766-6787, 407/294-9600, discounthotelsamerica.com), for example, even at upscale properties like the Doubletree Resort Maingate you can save nearly $40 a night off the May/June rack rate of $110; or at the EconoLodge Hawaiian Resort, pay $40.90 instead of $95 this fall (caveat emptor: reservations agencies aren't inevitably the least expensive way to go; this same property recently advertised in the Traveler Discount Guide coupon book, available free at the CVB and online, for $29 a night). Other recommendable locals include Accommodation USA (407/931-0003), Central Reservation Service (800/555-7555, reservation-services.com), Know Before You Go (800/749-1993, 407/396-5400; 1travel.com/know beforeyougo), Orlando Direct (877/466-3352, 407/390-7330, orlandomil lennium.com), Orlando Magic Vacations (888/399-2665, 407/390-7330), Vacation Relaxation (352/394-0018; experi enceorlando.com), and Vacationworks (800/396-1883, 407/396-1844, va cationworks.com), which also has four local walk-in centers. 9. Or Disney's budget-priced All-Star hotels If you've just gotta stay with Mickey, his least expensive digs are at Disney's All-Star Sports, Music, or Movies theme resorts, a few minutes south of Epcot, with room rates starting at $74 a night and no charge for kids 17 and younger. These can provide a fun, bustling atmosphere, and rooms have private baths and various other amenities; they comfortably sleep four, with space to stow suitcases under the beds. Reservations/information: 407/934-7639, disneyworld.com. 10. Consider those new family hotels Quite frankly, the word "family" is way overused hereabouts, but Orlando's newest bonafide boon for the "f" word is the Holiday Inn Family Suites Resort (18000 S. International Dr., off Rte. 536 just south of Disney World), a handsome complex with 800 units, many of them themed along lines ranging from the nifty ("Kids' Suites" with child-size bunk beds and "Sweetheart Suites" with big-screen TV and a heart-shape whirlpool tub) to the overrated ("Cinema Suites" and "Fitness Suites"). For nicely appointed single-bathroom units sleeping four to seven people with more than your average motel-room privacy, rates start at $89 a night. The value becomes even greater when you factor in a free and ample hot buffet breakfast and complimentary shuttle service to all Disney parks. More details: 877/387-5437, 407/387-5437, hifamilysuites.com. 11. Or try Orlando's private vacation homes Would you believe a fully furnished house for as little as $89 to $149 a night? Private vacation homes are for rent within two to ten miles of Disney and Universal, most with private pools, cable TV, garages, washers, and dryers-pretty much all the conveniences of your own place. Brokers worth a holler: Families First (800/393-8800, 407/876-1868, fam iliesfirst.com), Vacation Homes of Orlando (888/714-6873, 407/932-1426, travelhomes.com), Florida Vacation Rental Homes (800/338-1452, 407/396-2628), World of Homes (800/551-7969, 407/932-4777, worldofhomes.net). 12. Low-cost car rentals In the hypercompetitive Orlando market, don't assume that the mom-and-pop independents or an outfit like Rent-a-Wreck are the cheapest car rental games in town; furious competition translates to constantly changing rates and surprisingly good deals even from the biggies. Big and small, many of those most convenient to the airport are clustered two miles east of its entrance, on McCoy and Narcoossee Roads (it's a $6 to $8 taxi ride, but airport shuttles or pickups are often provided). While Magic Rent A Car (407/857-1999) at 2911 McCoy may get you behind the wheel of a compact for $149.95 a week with unlimited mileage, Payless, at 5301 McCoy (407/856-5539), can do it for $139.95. Better yet, the local branch of Alamo at 8200 McCoy (407/857-8200) comes in at $129.95. So, unfortunately, there's no simple answer here, and no substitute for just calling around. Another major, Enterprise, at 7652 Narcoossee (407/281-3555, enterprise.com), usually doesn't go any lower than $159.95 weekly - but calling them at the right time (especially the first half of December and January, as well as August through October) just might snag you the best weekly rate in town: $69. Besides the nationals, additional local firms near the airport include Arrival (407/888-8232), Citywide (407/282-6100), Continental (407/380-3334), Florida Auto Rental (407/658-0023), and Specialty (407/888-4446). 13. And free shuttles to the theme parks: One way to save on gas and parking costs is to make sure your hotel (like the above-mentioned Holiday Inn Family Suites Resort) has a shuttle service to one or more of the theme parks or to other areas like International Drive. Disney and Universal charge $5 to $7 a day for parking, and getting from the lot to the park and back again can mean a time-wasting hassle, so shuttles can indeed pay off. Many lodgings and even campgrounds offer them; to find out which do, check the free "Official Accommodations Guide," available from the Orlando and/or Kissimmee visitors bureaus. 14. Low cost transportation everywhere We won't kid you: for those who want to try to dispense with a car altogether (whether due to budget or lack of license), it ain't exactly easy and can definitely be time-consuming-and time is of the essence when you're on a finite vacation. But with a little effort and a combination of public transportation, local transport companies, and taxi service, you can cover a fair amount of territory. From the airport, to start with, Mears Motor Shuttle (407/423-5566) and Transtar (407/856-7777) will get you to International Drive or downtown Orlando for $23 per adult round-trip or $13 one-way, and to Lake Buena Vista and Disney's Main Gate area, it's $27 round-trip and $15 each way. Children age 4-12 receive discounts; kids under 4 ride free. If you're staying in the International Drive area ("I-Drive"), the green I-Ride Trolley (407/248-9590, iridetrolley.com) is useful, covering 54 stops from Belz Factory Outlet World off Interstate 4 in the north to Sea World seven miles south. Running daily every 15 minutes or so from 7 a.m. to midnight, it costs 75[cents] a ride for adults, 25[cents] for folks over 65, and zip for the under-12 set (you can also get an all-day pass-$2.) 15. Budget buffets For a wide choice of low- to moderately-priced, non-fast-food meals throughout the tourist-popular zones, you could opt for chain "family restaurants" like Perkins, Denny's, or IHOP. But the best bang for your dining buck comes from the "all-you-can-eat" buffets, charging adults $3.99-$4.99 for breakfast, $5.99 lunch, $7.49-$7.99 dinner; kids under 12 get breakfast for $2.50-$3.12, lunch $2.79-$3.12, dinner $3.12-$3.99). On top of that, some also offer senior citizen discounts, early bird specials, or discounts of 10 percent from coupon booklets available in local tourist offices and hotels. Independently owned buffets (including those specializing in Chinese food) are scattered throughout the area. Among the chains, top picks include: Golden Corral (three in Orlando, two in Kissimmee); Ponderosa (four in Orlando and two in Kissimmee); Shoney's (three in Kissimmee and five in Orlando), Sizzler (two on International Drive, two in Kissimmee, one in Lake Buena Vista), Buddy Freddy's Country Buffet (four in Orlando, two in Kissimmee), Morrison's (two in Orlando, one in Kissimmee), and Piccadilly (two on East Colonial Drive, Orlando). While Morrison's and Piccadilly aren't strictly buffets, but ... la carte cafeterias, their rates sometimes compete with the buffets. 16. Fix your own food Your best source for picnic fixings and self-prepared in-room meals is Gooding's, a supermarket chain with more than a dozen exceedingly well-stocked and reasonably priced locations throughout the area, including Lake Buena Vista (Crossroads Mall, off I-4, 407/827-1200), Kissimmee (7840 U.S. 192 W, 407/397-2210), and International Dr. (at Jamaican Court, next to the Mercado shopping center, 407/352-4215). Open 24 hours, Gooding's also carries sandwiches such as $6.99 foot-long subs that can feed a family of four, along with prepared meals you can microwave and eat at clean, well-kept tables right on the spot (for example: a substantial lasagna or "grilled mojo chicken with Latin rice" for $4.99). 17. Half price at the water parks You've undoubtedly heard of the watery wonders of Wet 'n Wild. Well, you can cool off year-round at this well-known water park (6200 International Dr., 407/351-WILD, wetnwild.com) with more than a dozen really splashy rides for $10 off its admission after 3 p.m. When the discount kicks in actually depends on closing time; when the park closes at 6 p.m. in the off-season, it starts at 3 p.m.; when it's open until 11 p.m., 5 p.m. Regular admission is $28.95; $22.95 for ages 3 to 9. A similarly priced competitor, 36-acre Water Mania at 6073 U.S. 192 W. in Kissimmee (407/396-2626, water mania-florida.com), goes a different route, offering a second day free and $5 off its admission ($27.77; $20.28 ages 3-9) for up to six people with a coupon from a booklet available at the local CVB or from their Web site. 18. Picnics in the parks Families left gasping by a $9 tab for a cheeseburger and Coke inside some theme parks can save a lot by (discreetly) packing their own lunches (see Gooding's, above) and bringing them along in a day bag. There's no eagle-eyed, food-banning picnic patrol (yet) at the theme park gates, as far as we know. 19. For evening entertainment, there's cut-rate culture Cut-rate to the tune of half-price, in fact. Every day of the year, the Orlando Visitors Center's brand-new OTIX! program sells reduced-price tickets to dozens of high- and middle-brow cultural events. How about catching the Orlando Philharmonic for $24 rather than $40 or the Orlando Opera's Madame Butterfly for $10 rather than $15 (or better seats for $32 rather than $55)? Those are the OTIX! reductions available from Orlando's Official Visitor Center at 8723 International Dr. (at Austrian Row). 20. Finally, find the nightspot deals Again for evening entertainment, Universal Studios' 30-acre CityWalk (407/363-8000) and Downtown Disney/Pleasure Island (407/939-7801) are promenades with free nighttime parking and lots of restaurants, bars, shops, and nightspots. You can wander CityWalk and the ungated area of Downtown Disney for free, dining on a variety of low-cost eats at walk-up windows. But when it comes to concert and club cover charges, for up to three nights in a given week CityWalk wins hands down, hitting you up for just $7.95 a night (or $11.95 including a movie at the Universal Cineplex) for access to all of its 13 nightspots (including the ones with live music).

The world's finest bus routes for sightseeing

Fed up with paying $26-$30 for a half-day city tour by escorted motor coach? Tired of those inane anecdotes by the tour guide? Those historically inaccurate fables? The need, in some cities, to translate the commentary into four languages? Take a public bus instead! In nearly every major city of the world, public buses, trolleys, or boats traverse the very same sights for a tenth of the cost. And you enjoy your sightseeing in the company of local residents, not your fellow tourists. For example: New York Available at 3,500 locations around the city, including the New York City Visitors Center and major newsstands (call 212/638-7622 for a complete list), a $4 "Fun Pass" lets you ride subways and buses all day, getting on and off as often as you like. Stick to the buses; the subway's faster but hardly scenic. One particularly useful route is the M4, which travels north from East 32nd Street along Madison Avenue all the way up to the Cloisters (a branch of the Metropolitan Museum of Art devoted to medieval Europe) at the northern tip of Manhattan. Along the way, you pass landmarks such as Columbia University. Heading back south, the bus takes Fifth Avenue, passing the Metropolitan Museum of Art. At 42nd Street, you can transfer to the M42; head east for the United Nations or west for the Circle Line harbor cruises. Or walk over to Broadway and catch the M6 south to the World Trade Center and Battery Park City, where at no extra charge you can board the Staten Island Ferry for terrific views of lower Manhattan (as well as, for an extra charge, ferries to the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island). You're also within walking distance of South Street Seaport and Wall Street. San Francisco Perhaps the most unique form of public transportation in the United States, San Francisco's $2-a-ride cable cars (buy tickets from machines at terminal points or from a conductor on board) provide scenic tours for visitors as well as transportation for residents. Of the three cable car lines still in use, the Powell-Hyde Street line, which takes in Nob Hill, Russian Hill, and Lombard Street (the world's most crooked), and provides views of distant Alcatraz, is arguably the most interesting for visitors. Since these National Historic Landmarks run at a little over nine miles per hour, you'll have plenty of time to see the sights. Tip: Board the cars a few stops away from the end of the line, where the boarding lines can be long; you pay the conductor. Another worthwhile public transit line runs along Market Street, from downtown to the Castro, using historic trolley cars. You can buy a one-day Muni Passport (purchase it at the Visitor Information Center at Powell and Hallidie Plaza, among other places), good for cable cars, buses, and trams, for $6. Amsterdam Although it's a bit more touristy than, say, New York's M1, Amsterdam's Circle Tram (line 20) is the ideal example of convenient, cheap city touring. The trams are the same used on other lines, except that you can buy guidebooks and souvenirs on-board and a conductor sells tickets. This line, as its name suggests, travels in a circle around Amsterdam, taking in most of the city's principal sites, including the Van Gogh Museum and the Anne Frank House. It makes 31 stops in all, and you can hop on and off all day for about $5. Trams run every ten minutes from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., seven days a week. Bangkok Bangkok is best viewed from the water. Not only is it much more pleasant, but you also avoid often maddeningly slow street traffic. The Chao Phraya Express Boat Company operates open-air ferries along the turgid Chao Phraya River from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. Take a ferry from the Shangri-La Hotel and cruise the river for a refreshing water-level view of this mesmerizing city. Along the way, as your whims dictate, alight to visit Wat Arun, the Grand Palace, the National Museum, and other cultural and commercial sights. There's no day ticket, but fares are extremely cheap-four to 16 baht (about 10 to 40 cents). Hong Kong Trams have operated in Hong Kong since 1904, and because they're double-deckers, sitting up top yields great views of the passing scene, including Central Hong Kong's brilliant neon signs at night. For HK$2 (exact change, about 26 cents, payable each time you get on) you can take the tram from Kennedy Town in the western reaches of Hong Kong Island to Shau Kei Wan at the eastern end, passing through the Western, Central, and Wan Chai districts, Causeway Bay, North Point, and Quarry Bay-about 19 miles in all. A good place to pick up the tram in Central is along Queensway. Two other forms of public transport that show this beautiful city to its best advantage are the Peak Tram round-trip for HK$28 (US$3.59), which scales Victoria Peak with its panoramic views, and the Star Ferries that ply Victoria Harbour between Tsim Sha Tsui on the Kowloon Peninsula and the Central District on Hong Kong Island for HK$2.20 (US28[cents]) if you ride on the top deck. Kyoto If the best-selling book (and soon-to-be-movie) Memoirs of a Geisha has Kyoto on your must-see list, then there are two public bus lines that serve tourists. Line 100 goes to Gion, the old Geisha quarter, past Kiyomizu Temple, Yasaka Shrine, Chion-in Temple, Nanzenji Temple, and the Heian shrine. Bus 101 goes to Nijojo-mae and Kinkakuji (the Gold Pavillion), then passes Nijo Castle, Nishijin Textile Center, and the textile district (including the Aizen Kobo Dying studio), as well as the Daitokuji Temple (mentioned in another Kyoto-based novel, Pico Iyer's The Lady and the Monk). There's no day pass, and fares depend on how far you travel but are typically about 220 yen ($1.84). London Of all the world's cities, London, with its double-decker buses affording high-up views, offers the best opportunities to see the sights. Try to get a seat up front and up top for the best vantage point. If you do only one bus route, make it route 15, which runs from Paddington Station to Marble Arch, down Oxford Street and Regent Street, through Piccadilly Circus, across Trafalgar Square, continuing down the Strand to Fleet Street and St. Paul's Cathedral, and ending at the Tower of London. Route 11, from King's Road to St. Paul's, covers much of the same territory. You can buy a one-day pass for central London permitting unlimited trips for [British Pound]3.80 ($6.15) from any London Transport ticket office. Paris The City of Light offers dozens of interesting public bus routes that take you past its highlights. The best of the bunch is line 24, which does a circuit around central Paris, mostly hugging the Seine River, from the Gare St. Lazare to the Ecole Veterinaire de Maisons-Alfort. Along the way, you'll cross the Seine six times if you make the complete loop and pass by Place de la Concorde, the Louvre, the Pont-Neuf, Notre-Dame, Ile St-Louis, and Place St-Michel. You'll then head down Boulevard St-Germain and pass the Arab Institute (have lunch here in the top-floor restaurant with its excellent views of Paris) and the Musee D'Orsay. Lines 72 and 82 are also worthwhile. You can buy a one-day pass for FF92 ($15), good for all buses and the Metro subway system; individual tickets are 8FF ($1.30). Venice Seeing Venice by vaporetto (water bus) is the only way to go, except for pricey gondolas and water taxis, and the public transit system provides many options. The Line 1 Accelerato (local) makes all the stops along the Grand Canal, then continues on to the Lido. The Line 82 Diretto (express, limited stops) also travels the Grand Canal and stops at Piazza San Marco, the Accademia museum, and Rialto bridges, then circles the Dorsoduro and crosses the lagoon to the Lido (pick up either at the Piazzale Roma; for the best view try to get one of the outside seats at the front or back). Line 52, which locals call the Circolare, circles the perimeter of Venice before crossing the lagoon and calling at Lido and Murano. The biglietto turistico is a buy at [British Pound]18,000 ($9.75), allowing unlimited travel all day, and you could easily spend the entire day (and night, because the city is just as magical after the sun sets) riding the city's waterways. A single ticket, in contrast, costs about L6000 ($3.25). Lisbon With their jolts and twisty turns, Libson's antique trams, which date from 1901, feel and look like they belong in a ride at Disney World rather than in a major European city. Line 28 runs from the Basilica da Estrela, skirts the Bairro Alto and the central shopping district, ending up at Largo do Martin Moniz, within walking distance of the castle of Sao Jorge. At times there's just a single track, and the cobblestone streets are so narrow that you can literally touch the sides of the buildings if you lean out of the tram's large windows. Fares are 160 escudos (85 cents) for a single ride if bought from the driver on board, or 450 ($2.40) for a day pass, available from Carris (the city transit) kiosks throughout the city. On San Francisco's cable cars, ride all-day for six bucks/ Jason Grow/Saba//St. John Pope/Katz/Saba

Hollywood-Style Travel Videos on a Shoestring

Anyone who's ever sat through a friend's amateur vacation video knows how far a little filmmaking ability could go: "If only they didn't shake the camera...had added voice-overs to explain what we were seeing...cut out all those boring parts..." But such skills are only possible with professional equipment that costs thousands of dollars, right? Wrong. As a documentary filmmaker who has produced travel and adventure programs all over the globe, I've learned that expensive equipment is not the secret to creating compelling videos. In fact, many of my s hows have been made with consumer cameras on shockingly low budgets. All you need to do is follow the 12 simple tips listed below and you can transform those clumsy home movies into professional-looking travelogues worthy of the Discovery Channel. What to buy 1. Go digital Forget about camcorders that come in VHS or Hi8 formats: They're the dinosaurs of the video world. While they may cost less, you'll end up spending far more in the long run, because the flimsy tape and internal parts will break down quickly. (Plus, they capture the worst picture imaginable.) Instead, go modern and purchase a mini DV (digital video) camera, often for around the same price. Not only do they offer broadcast-quality images, but many retail for well under $450. Two of the best bargains are Canon's ZR 25MC and Panasonic's DV102. Making DVs even more economical, you can create excellent still photos from any frame you've shot-so you can leave your 35mm camera and all that expensive film at home. To compare and shop around for the most competitive prices, log on to cnet.com, or visit well-stocked electronics chain stores like Best Buy or Circuit City. 2. Buy tape stock online Although digital tapes still cost a bit more than VHS or Hi8 (which retail for about $2.50/$3.50 each, respectively), if you buy them in bulk or through an Internet wholesale site you can often cut your costs in half. Try taperesources.com (800/827-3462), where 60-minute tapes cost $4.79/$6.89 apiece for professional, broadcast quality. 3. Get a collapsible tripod Without a doubt, the most glaring mark of an amateur videographer is shaky, handheld camera work. But a professional video tripod can be a cumbersome, pricey thing to drag around. Instead, consider buying the collapsible six-inch table tripod from Bogen for about $30. Because it's so small and lightweight, it will fit easily in your daypack. Again, cnet.com highlights and compares all available brands and prices. 4. Don't forget the microphone Most consumer cameras only come equipped with built-in microphones that are useless if the subject is out of range. To solve this problem, Radio Shack sells a tiny clip-on mike (also called a lavaliere) for about $25. With this tiny gadget, you can pick up sounds from up to ten feet away. Clip it to the lapel of your tour guide as he shows you around a site, or place it in the center of a table when your travel mates are discussing their next plan. Your viewers will instantly notice how the crisp difference in sound quality makes the video come alive. 5. Invest in a good camera bag At first glance, professional camcorder bags seem to be a luxury item. But remember, you've just spent a good amount of money on a camera and other fragile accessories, and you want them to last. Shop around for a bag that has lots of pockets, good padding, and strong zippers. Some of the best are made by Tamrac (800/662-0717, tamrac.com). They carry a whole line of r ugged bags, some costing as little as $39. And always make your camera case one of your carry-on pieces of luggage, as lazy porters will treat it with the same disregard as they do heavy-duty plastic suitcases-and dishonest ones may decide to have a peek inside. 6. Charge your batteries and buy a voltage adapter You don't want to run out of battery power during your one trip to the Taj Mahal. Even if you've barely used your camera that day, be sure to fully charge it at your hotel in the evening. (If you can afford it, buy a second battery as a backup-they cost around $30 to $40.) Also, know the voltage of the country you'll be traveling in, and buy an adapter plug before you go. You can usually pick up an effective universal adapter for a few bucks at a luggage store, or at travel stores in major airports. Shooting tips Unlike still cameras, camcorders need a lot less light to render an image. Before you leave on your vaca tion, however, test the limits of your camera by shooting in a dark location. If the low-light indicator goes berserk, open the iris until the warning goes away. While the image may appear grainier, the trade-off is often worth it. For example, harsh on-camera lights are often obtrusive to others in crowded museums or sensitive locations like churches and mosques, where your bright light can ruin the mood. 8. Keep the camera steady Even without a tripod, you can shoot Machu Picchu without making it appear as if it's the epicenter of an earthquake. Simply find a wall, mound, or some other raised surface to set your camera on while shooting, or even your friend's shoulder-making sure they stay steady and keep breathing to a minimum Another drawback to handheld camera work is shaky pans and tilts. (A pan is a shot that moves either left to right; a tilt is one that travels up or down.) Generally a shot should be slower rather than fast, and should end on the most significant element in the scene. For steady pans, first decide where you want the shot to end, firmly plant your feet in that position, and then twist your body back to the start. This way, the movement will become more comfortable and natural as you pan rather than the opposite, and the grand finale will be clear and steady. 9. Hold that shot Another common error is to turn the camera off as soon as you reach the end of the pan or tilt. Don't be afraid to hold the shot for five or six seconds after the movement is finished, so your audience can fully take in the image you've led them to. 10. Don't start shooting as soon as you arrive at a location Instead, first enjoy the site as a tourist-after all, that is why you're there in the first place. Then, when you've got a feel for the place, set up your tripod in the three or four favorite spots and capture the scenes that most impressed you. Remember to change your shot scale, the distance between you and the subject. Start with a wide shot of the entire area, move in to a medium one, and finish with a few close-ups. That way, if you do edit your video when you get home, you'll have something fresh to cut to, creating a living scene rather than a static postcard snapshot. 11. Pay attention to the sun Since you're not relying on expensive lighting gear, the quality of the natural light is of great importance. Don't shoot when the sun is at high noon: There is very little interplay between shadow and light, and the images come across as flat and boring. Consider shooting early in the morning, or better yet, late in the afternoon, when long shadows will add character to your subjects. (And remember: Never shoot directly into the sun-it can ruin your lens!) 12. Always ask permission before you shoot In some foreign countries, randomly pointing a camera could get you into trouble. Many famous sites are next to military installations, embassies, or other sensitive places that local authorities may not want doc umented on video. When in doubt, ask. The same goes with videotaping people. Most people will respond warmly if you take the time and courtesy to ask permission first. Remember, you're a guest in their country. Now that I'm back home, what do I do?

Inspiration

Finding the Music in Ireland

What you'll find in this story: Ireland culture, Ireland attractions, Ireland neighborhoods, Dublin restaurants, Galway restaurants, Dublin hotels, Galway hotels, Dublin entertainment From the beginning, travel has been a big part of Kurtis and Heather Frank's relationship. The couple, who live in the Chicago suburb of Wheeling, Ill., met in 1999 while studying in Germany. They took advantage of their semester abroad, seeing an opera in Prague, touring the Louvre and Musée d'Orsay in Paris, and downing more than a few döner kebabs in train stations all over Germany. ("They put McDonald's and Burger King to shame," Kurtis says.) The couple got engaged on a trip to Boston, while overlooking the harbor just after a Red Sox game, and after they were married in 2002, went on their honeymoon to Hawaii. For their next adventure, the Franks asked us to help plan a 10-day trip to Ireland. They've never been and are hoping to visit Sarah Croke, a friend in Dublin who they went to school with in Germany, and take in some villages and gorgeous scenery on a road trip. Travel dates are based on a long shot: Toward the end of June, U2 is playing a couple of shows at Dublin's revamped Croke Park Stadium. "My wife and I are huge fans, along with half the planet, I suppose," Kurtis wrote to us in February. "It'd be fantastic to see U2 in their home country. Whether we'll be able to a) get tickets and b) afford going on the trip after purchasing said tickets remains to be seen." We told Kurtis and Heather to try and buy tickets at ticketmaster.ie when they went on sale, but no luck: All 160,000 tickets for the two concerts sold out in less than an hour. The Franks decided to go to Ireland anyway. (In turn, we decided to help them out in their quest to see Bono, the Edge, and the rest of the boys; see below for more details). Since June falls in high season, we advised them to book flights several months in advance. Aer Lingus offers its lowest fares online and had an O'Hare-Dublin round trip for $658, not including taxes and charges. This was $14 cheaper than the best fares from Travelocity and Expedia. We also suggested consulting The Irish Echo and Irish Voice--available at newsstands in Chicago, Boston, New York, and other Irish hubs--where Irish travel specialists such as Crystal Travel and O'Connor's Fairways regularly advertise deals. The booming Irish economy and a weak U.S. dollar mean that Dublin--and all of Ireland--is dramatically more expensive than a decade or two ago. The Franks aren't looking for anything luxurious in terms of lodging, and our vote for best budget choice goes to Jurys Inn Christchurch. Sure, it's got that chain-hotel feel (floral bedspreads and dark woods), but rooms are bright and relatively spacious. Plus, it's directly across from Christchurch Cathedral in the Old City and just a five-minute walk to the cafés and pubs of Temple Bar. Speaking of which, we also like the Temple Bar Hotel for its location in the heart of the action. Although Kurtis and Heather shy away from tourist traps, there are some blatantly touristy activities that intrigue them. One is Viking Splash Tours, an especially fun way to get oriented in Dublin. Forget double-deckers with canned commentary. This tour takes place aboard a "duck"--a reconditioned World War II amphibious craft similar to those that run tours in Boston and other cities. It starts on land and eventually splashes into the Grand Canal Basin; riders wear horned Viking helmets and issue war cries at appropriate moments. The Guinness Storehouse is another big tourist site that interests the Franks; we urged them to go for the last tour of the day (8 p.m. in July and August) and have a pint at the brewery's top-floor pub, where there's a particularly spectacular view of the city. "We like to travel by rail, which is how we got around in Germany," Kurtis says. "Neither of us has experience driving manual transmission cars, and we've never driven on the left side of the road, so I guess the train is the safest bet." This was a problem. After a little prodding, the Franks took our advice to rent a car: Driving is by far the easiest way to get around in Ireland (and the train system isn't all that extensive). But most rentals are stick shifts, and automatics are more expensive. We searched for a four-day automatic rental and the cheapest options for Avis and Hertz were $302 and $350, respectively. Instead, we steered the Franks to local operator Dooley Car Rentals, which rents an automatic Ford Fiesta for $244 for four days, including basic insurance coverage. (To be on the safe side, we told the Franks to get written confirmation specifying that the car will be an automatic.) Admirably, the Franks aren't the kind of travelers who are hell-bent on packing everything into one trip. "We always try to view our vacations as if they will not necessarily be the last time we visit a place," Kurtis explains. "Quality over quantity tends to be our mantra." The idea is to tackle a small territory at a leisurely pace over four or five days. For a dramatic antidote to the capital, we pointed the Franks toward the solitude of Connemara, a region on the west coast that comprises one of Ireland's largest Gaeltachts, or Irish-speaking areas. Oscar Wilde called it a "savage beauty," and the remote landscape is a wild and woolly blend of heather-clad mountains, silent lakes, vast bog plains, and a smattering of appealing seaside villages. Ireland is so small--about the size of West Virginia--that the coast-to-coast drive from Dublin to the west coast takes just over three hours. There's something wonderfully exhilarating about traveling out of Dublin on the N4 motorway. Maybe it's how the road signs beckon to the west and galway with the promise of the great wide open. The N4 leads right into Galway City, a gateway to Connemara and as inviting a city as any. The narrow street layout in the city center remains unchanged since medieval times, yet the place manages to be vibrant and youthful. As the home of many art galleries, artisan workshops, and festivals, Galway has earned a reputation as the unofficial arts capital of Ireland. The city is also blessed with a location between Galway Bay and the grand expanse of Lough Corrib, which is said to have some of the world's best fishing and an island for every day of the year. Kurtis told us that he likes the Chieftains and Damien Rice, so we knew he'd be happy to learn that Galway is a terrific place to hear traditional and folk music. One of our favorite pubs for live sessions (Wednesdays through Sundays) in Galway is Tigh Neachtain, which positively exudes atmosphere thanks to a labyrinth of tiny "snugs" (small interconnected rooms) that haven't been changed since 1894. The Crane Bar, a rustic gem of a pub renowned for its nightly music sessions, is also worth the 15-minute walk or quick cab ride from central Galway to the seaside outskirts of the city. The combination of comfort and good price again led us to recommend a Jurys hotel in the heart of Galway. The Franks don't want to be tied to a strict itinerary, and we told them that their road trip can be as scheduled or as loose as they desired. Even in Ireland's more remote areas, it's rare to drive more than an hour without passing a B&B. In Galway they could hop a ferry bound for Inis Mór, the largest of the Aran Islands, for a day of scenic bike riding. Another possibility is the coastal drive (R336) that loops around Galway Bay to Roundstone and Clifden. Ensconced between mountains and the Atlantic, tiny Errisbeg Lodge, about a mile from Roundstone, is an especially beautiful place to linger for a night. From Clifden, the N59 skirts past the entrance to Connemara National Park, where herds of ponies and red deer roam free. The Franks could zip through Connemara in a few hours, but it's far more rewarding to stop often and hang out in the colorful fishing villages along the way. Before heading back to Dublin, they may want to spend the night at Breaffy House Hotel. Just outside of Castlebar, in County Mayo, a long driveway leads to an honest-to-goodness, trumpets-blaring, grand castle hotel at an affordable price. Even if the weather doesn't cooperate (and in Ireland it rarely does), the warmth and kindness of the people will make for great travel memories for Kurtis and Heather. To paraphrase an Irish blessing, may the road rise up to meet them. Surprise! Call us a bunch of softies, but after hearing that the Franks couldn't get tickets for U2 in Dublin at the end of June, we used our resources to score two seats. "I'm in total shock," Kurtis said after we gave him the news. "And I think that Heather just passed out. But I'm sure she'll be fine by concert time. Thanks so much!" Just remember to tell us how it was. How was your trip? Sean Sullivan served in the Peace Corps in Africa three decades ago, and we coached him--along with his wife, Rita, and friends Michael and Michele McMurray, pictured here at the Cape of Good Hope--on a return trip in February. "What made the biggest impact on me was the relations between the races in South Africa," Sean says. "The spirit of oppression, defeat, and hopelessness that existed 30 years ago has been replaced by a good-natured, positive spirit. We saw young blacks and whites strolling together easily. I was also impressed by the lively jazz scene in Cape Town, and, of course, we enjoyed Kruger National Park. We saw all the big game--lion, buffalo, leopard, even a cheetah calling her cubs." Transportation Aer Lingus 800/474-7424, aerlingus.com Crystal Travel 800/327-3780, crystal-travel.net O'Connor's Fairways Travel 800/662-0550, oconnors.com Dooley Car Rentals 800/331-9301, dooleycarrentals.com Aran Island Ferries 011-353/91-568-903, aranislandferries.com, Galway to the Aran Islands $26 round trip, bus ride to the docks $6.75 Lodgings Jurys Inn Christchurch Christchurch Place, Dublin, 011-353/1-454-0000, jurysdoyle.com, $151 Temple Bar Hotel Fleet St., Dublin, 011-353/1-677-3333, templebarhotel.com, from $162 Jurys Inn Galway Quay St., Galway, 011-353/91-566-444, jurysdoyle.com, $139 Errisbeg Lodge Roundstone, Connemara, County Galway, 011-353/95-35807, errisbeglodge.com, from $94 Breaffy House Hotel Castlebar, County Mayo, 011-353/94-902-2033, from $173 Attractions Tigh Neachtain 17 Cross St., Galway, 011-353/91-568-820 The Crane Bar 2 Sea Rd., Galway, 011-353/91-587-419 Viking Splash Tours 64-65 Patrick St., Dublin, 011-353/1-707-6000, vikingsplashtours.com, from $24 Guinness Storehouse St. James Gate Brewery, Dublin, 011-353/1-408-4800, guinness-storehouse.com, tour admission $18.75 Connemara National Park 011-353/95-41054, heritageireland.ie The Automobile Association of Ireland aaroadwatch.ie (click Route Planning for directions) Entertainment Ireland entertainment.ie, for music and arts listings