Locals Know Best: Savannah
Mention Savannah to most people and they’re quick to free associate: sweet tea, riverboats, peaches, and all the other clichés. But anyone who’s known and loved the city his or her whole life is quick to scoff at those formulaic stereotypes. Ruel Joyner is one of those people who can’t resist slipping into ambassador mode when he starts talking about Savannah. You’d have a hard time finding someone whose story is more deeply woven into the city’s tapestry than Ruel’s. He’s the third-generation owner of 24e Design Co., a store that’s been operating continuously on lively Broughton Street since 1986. Moreover, his grandmother lives in one of the oldest homes in the historic district.
“If you grew up here, you can leave but you’ll be back. It really is a captivating city,” he said. “It’s magnetic. It’s center of something special. When people come visit, it’s not unusual to hear that they later move here.” We checked in with him for his advice on the most exciting things to see, do, eat, drink and stay in Georgia’s oldest city.
Savannah/Hilton Head International Airport is a bustling hub, but coming and going, Ruel says, is “the easiest thing in the world. You can swing your keys and be on valet service and get to your hotel in 15 minutes.” He describes the city as “Mayberry on steroids,” as it’s a small town and everyone knows everyone like they did in high school, but as far as American cities go, it’s an international one, not least because it’s a port city.
Ruel recommends against looking for bargains on the outskirts of the city. Savannah is a relatively undiscovered city, he says, which means it’s still wildly affordable. (“Everything is cheap, except for our taxes,” he says only half-jokingly.) Try to land a room in the Historic District. He recommends the Bohemian on the Savannah River, where you can while away hours at Rocks on the River, the hotel’s rooftop bar, and sip sweet tea and watch container ships come in. But there are plenty of other choices, they might not be as full-service, but they have no less charm. Thunderbird Inn, an exercise in retro-fabulous mid-century modern style, from the vintage décor to the complimentary RC Cola in the rooms, tops his list.
Savannah is in the throes of an urban renaissance and the culinary scene is Exhibit A. If you’re looking to splurge (and remember—Georgia splurge is different from Manhattan splurge), head to Pacci, a modern Italian ristorante at the Brice Hotel. It has a polished and modern look but a southern laidback vibe and Ruel actually helped design. The duck with blueberry sauce is not to be missed. For a little less polish, Bernie’s, is Ruel’s favorite hole-in-the-wall, not least because it looks like it could have been Blackbeard’s den. It’s a go-to for fresh oysters—steamed and raw—and shrimp that is, quite simply, “to die for.”
Savannah’s international character is captured in the dining options. CO (Thai for “feast”), will get you acquainted with Asian box pressed sushi, an unusual sushi style. (Spoiler alert: it involves tartar that’s been minced and mixed with sticky rice and pressed into a square.) The burgers at Collins Quarter are “slap-your-mama good,” he avows. If you can start your day with breakfast at B. Mathews, you’ll be treated to the “best breakfast sandwich in the world,” says Ruel. And plan to spend at least one night hanging out at Bayou Café, known for its live blues and stiff drinks. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch Eric Culberson, one of the best guitarist on the east coast, hands-down, Ruel says. “It’s as Savannah as it gets,” he says.
Savannah is nothing if not a city designed for wandering. To hear Ruel explain it, it’s laid out like a series of squares, each of which has its own mark of distinction. “They’re all like living rooms throughout the city. As you’re walking Bull Street, the spine of our city that connects City Hall to Forsythe Park, it’s like going from living room to living room. There’s music buskers, students sitting and sketching architecture, it’s a real living, breathing city of so many layers and textures. It wouldn’t be out of the ordinary to walk down Bull Street and hear five languages. It’s an international port city—people from all over the world come here and discover a European city.
Savannah College of Art and Design is one of the top art schools in the world, so little surprise that the city is fertile ground for people into the arts. SCAD Musuem of Art is the school’s affiliated museum, but the creativity is not confined to a museum here. “The whole Historic District is like a campus of the school,” says Ruel. “Whatever time of year you come to town, check and see what’s going on. There will be something tied in with the museum and its people, whether that's shops or parties. It's a big laboratory of things to do and that’s really what keeps it fresh and going."
SHOP AND SAVOR:
Broughton Street is Savannah’s High Street and a wander through the shops could easily be an entire afternoon’s activity. Paris Market and Brocante (French for “flea market”) http://theparismarket.com/ is known not only for its highly curated collection of home décor inspired by the markets of Europe, but also for its café where you can pause for macaroons and the popular iced coffee while you pour over the collection of design books.
Down the street is 24e Design Co., Ruel’s store. The 11,000-square-foot space is a veritable gallery of everything from bench-made décor to one-of-a-kind historic flags and vintage gas signs to furniture made of old airplane parts. And those are just some things you might find one week. The inventory is constantly changing. Ruel has a few favorite stops for bites throughout the day. He’s a fan of Beatnix, a café specializing in creative cold-press juices, as well as Warrior One, which offers patia bowls, ultra-healthy oat/dragon fruit/honey/berries mix that’s nothing short of “life-changing.” And while you’re in the mindframe of good health, feel free to drop in for one of the classes in the attached yoga studio; they’re offered every other hour. After that, pop into the café/pub hybrid Coffee Fox to refortify with a beer or cappuccino.
Ruel calls out the city's art museums, like the Telfair Museum in the Historic District, and the affiliated Jepson Center, which features modern art of all stripes, both very much worth the visit. The list goes on: the Ships of the Sea Museum, featuring an unparalleled collection of model ships and maritime objects in a circa 1819 home, and the Great Savannah Races, celebrating the history of auto racing in the city, which once housed a giant race track.
Savannah is worth visiting for the architecture alone, but few talk about its proximity to natural marvels like the beautiful barrier islands. Ruel recommends checking in with Wilderness Southeast or Gray’s Reef National Marine Sanctuary Foundation to learn about the many different ecological trips on offer. While you’re traveling outside the city, you’d be remiss to overlook Tybee Island (ten miles away),especially in the winter when you can relish its quiet beauty. And bring an appetite. The Crab Shack, set amid Civil War oaks, is known for its larger-than-life steamed seafood platter.
5 Things You Don't Know About... Standing Rock
Budget Travel has always considered Native American history and culture, and the travel destinations that reflect them, to be a vital part of our mission. From the Smithsonian’s National Museum of the American Indian to the Little Bighorn, from the spectacular Southwestern parks located on Navajo land to the Crazy Horse monument in South Dakota, we’re always eager to share news and tips about these destinations. But sometimes, unfortunately, it takes a crisis to bring a travel destination to our attention. As you probably know, the Standing Rock Sioux are in the midst of a peaceful protest to stop construction of the Dakota Access Pipeline. Environmentalists and tribal leaders say that the pipeline will threaten water supplies for the Standing Rock Sioux and the millions of people who live downstream from the Standing Rock Indian Reservation (2.3 million acres straddling the border between North and South Dakota). The company building the pipeline, Energy Transfer Partners, says that the pipeline will be a safer way to transport crude oil than the current surface modes of transportation, and that it has followed state and federal rules. The standoff is likely to continue, and protesters (who include not only North and South Dakota locals but also indigenous people and other supporters from across North America and beyond) are setting up structures to allow them to remain through the harsh Dakota winter. We thought now might be a good time for us all to learn more about Standing Rock as an important piece of protected land and a beautiful and educational travel destination for nature lovers, history buffs, fishing and cycling enthusiasts, and others. We’re going to bet you didn’t know… Standing Rock is the fifth largest reservation in the U.S., including grass plains, hills, and buttes bordering the Missouri River, Lake Oahe, Grand River, and the Cannon Ball River. The name “Standing Rock” was inspired by a rock formation (a “sacred stone”) that resembles a woman carrying a child on her back. Standing Rock is home to Lakota Sioux and Dakota Sioux, and the cultures of the two groups (and the sub-groups within them) are quite diverse. Historically, the two groups included horsemen, buffalo hunters, and farmers. Sitting Bull (1831 to 1890), perhaps the best-known Sioux leader, was born along the Grand River. Sitting Bull’s lifetime spanned the expansion of U.S. settlements on native lands, and he resisted the government’s attempts to relocate his people and to buy sacred land. Sitting Bull was killed during an attempt to arrest him. There are two official Sitting Bull burial sites: The original is in Fort Yates, North Dakota. The second (where Sitting Bull’s remains were reportedly relocated) is across the Missouri River from Mobridge, South Dakota, and features a bust by sculptor Korzcak Ziolkowski. Sakakawea (1788 to 1812), the Shoshone woman renowned as an essential guide to Meriwether Lewis & William Clark’s Corps of Discovery, is commemorated near the Sitting Bull sculpture. Visitors can visit the Fort Manuel Replica, near Kenel, North Dakota, which recreates the community in which Sakakawea spent her final years. (Note: The spelling Sakakawea reflects a more accurate pronunciation than the more traditional spelling Sakajawea.) The Standing Rock National Native American Scenic Byway is a gorgeous 86-mile stretch that crosses Lakota and Dakota lands along historic S.D. Highways 1806 and 24. Keep an eye out for memorial markers, interpretive signs, and monuments to learn about the history of Native Americans and settlers in the region. The Lewis and Clark Legacy Nature Trail, in Prairie Knight Marina near Fort Yates, is a three-mile trail suitable for hiking and cycling. You’ll learn about the area’s plants and how the Lakota and Dakota people used them. To learn more about affordable lodging, camping, and recreational activities at Standing Rock, please visit standingrock.org.
B&B Bargains for Fall (From $99)
It's no surprise that our friends at BedandBreakfast.com know how to celebrate B&B month (a.k.a. October) with spectacular deals across the U.S.. We're seeing B&Bs to suit every traveler's taste, and the best part is that each of these eight standouts is well under $200/night (one even starts at $99). Katrina's Cabin, Fredericksburg, TexasA historic cabin in the heart of Fredericksburg, Katrina's Cabin has a private hot tub, a front porch and back porch, a fully stocked kitchen, two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a loft, a dog-friendly attitude, and plenty of character. A light breakfast is included in your stay. The house sits on a beautiful shaded lot, just across from the famous Fredericksburg Herb Farm. Rates start at $99/night. Union Gables, Saratoga Springs, New YorkExperience old-world hospitality with exceptional service, charm and elegance. Union Gables, built in 1901, is a romantic mansion restored to its original beauty with modern amenities. All rooms are unique in style and have antiques, gas fireplaces, 43-inch flat screen televisions, most have king size beds, and complimentary wireless internet service. The grounds are gorgeous with a garden oasis, heated outdoor pool and wrap around front porch. Enjoy a full gourmet breakfast cooked fresh to order each morning. Complimentary wine every evening, and fresh baked cookies. Rates start at $125/night. Buchanan Lofts, Lafayette, LouisianaThis is your artsy stay in the heart of Cajun Country. Built in a renovated warehouse, Lafayette's Buchanan Lofts is the studio you wish you were creative enough to own. Each loft is unique, with quirky touches, creative furnishings, and stacks of art magazines on every polished surface. Seventeen-foot-high ceilings soar over airy rooms furnished in a minimalist-industrial style. Guests can enjoy super-cool inclusions like fiber-optic Internet, fully fitted stainless steel kitchens, and Blu-Ray players before heading out for Lafayette's stomping music scene and Cajun eats. Rates from $100/night. Villa D' Citta, ChicagoAt Villa D'Citta, innkeeper Cathy Hartman expertly brings Tuscany to the Windy City. Luxurious rooms and modern amenities (DirecTV, high-speed Internet) marry well in this Chicago mansion smack-dab in the middle of Lincoln Park. Come for the massive suites and jetted tubs, the pillow-top beds and Juliet balconies, the steam rooms and fireplaces. But the reason you'll return is stored inside a Subzero fridge: Italian charcuterie, eggs, ham, and freshly baked Italian breads, perfect for a midnight panini. True Italian hospitality makes leaving near impossible. Rates from $129/night. Rainbow Hearth Sanctuary and Retreat Center, Burnet, TexasOn nine lakeside acres in Texas Hill Country, you’ll find a treehouse yurt with king-size bed and domed ceiling. Rainbow Hearth offers an on-site spa and lakeside organic dining, and is pet-friendly. Rates start at $139/night. Glendeven Inn Mendocino, Little River, CaliforniaGlendeven is a luxury, eight-acre, ocean-view farmstead overlooking w meadows and lush forests. Its four buildings are developed around a fully restored 1867 New England-style farmhouse where a typical room is a suite with wood-burning fireplace, ocean views, a view balcony, queen or king bed and a private bath. A full three-course hot breakfast is served in-room each morning; complimentary wine and hors d'oeuvres are available in Glendeven's own Wine Barn, which is Mendocino's only wine purveyor serving and selling only local Anderson Valley wines by the bottle. Stunning botanical gardens, grazing llamas, and 100 laying hens contribute to Glendeven's feeling of a luxury ocean view farmstead. Rates start at $175/night. The Owl's Perch, Robbinsville, North CarolinaThis uniquely decorated remote 200 square foot one room rustic guest house with private deck overlooks beautiful Squally Creek nestled in the tree tops of Nantahala National Forest. It's definitely off the beaten path, located on a bumpy graveled old logging road but accessible by car and experienced motorcyclist. Rates from $105/night.Craftsman Inn, Calistoga, CaliforniaNapa Valley's Craftsman Inn provides an affordable way to explore Calistoga and the surrounding region without sacrificing amenities. Outfitted with touches like L’Occitane bath products and sleek subway-tile backed waterfall showers or Jacuzzi tubs, the eight guestrooms balance English and American antiques with a modern. The icing on the cake: Craftsman Inn’s lavish daily Champagne breakfast is lauded by guests near and far. Rates start at $149/night.
This may be our favorite travel video series yet
We've had a blast getting to know some of Arkansas's great vacation destinations. From justly renowned spots like Little Rock and Fort Smith to gems like Mountain View and El Dorado, which many Americans have yet to discover, we captured an up-close-and-personal portrait of the state. Check out our four videos, each devoted to a world-class, budget-friendly Arkansas vacation destination that's waiting for you: Fort Smith: Where the Old West Begins Experience the Roots Vibe of Mountain View Music El Dorado: Savor the Boomtown Little Rock: Urban Style & Natural Beauty
"The Crash Detectives" Are Travel's Unsung Heroes
Who doesn’t love a good mystery? Speculation on crop circles, what went on in Roswell that night in 1964, and where Jimmy Hoffa and Amelia Earhart vanished to still occupy the collective mind all these decades later. Arguably one of the greatest mysteries of our present moment is what happened to Malaysia Airlines Flight 370, the airliner that fell disappeared on March 8, 2014 and is believed to be in the Indian Ocean. Terrorism? Technical malfunction? Those questions dogged Christine Negroni, a longtime aviation reporter for media outlets ranging from ABC News and The New York Times to Air & Space magazine. She covered the disappearance of MH 370 for ABC News. She weaves the findings of her intense inquiry and study together in the “The Crash Detectives: Investigating the World’s Most Mysterious Air Disasters,” which was released by Penguin in September. Part of what makes the book such a thrilling read is that it broaches technical engineering factors, but not too technically; she takes you into the quick-thinking minds of pilots and investigators, but not in a cheap-thrills way; she details high-profile disasters, but not in a sensational way; she takes a probing look at conspiracy theories and gives them rational consideration without, for lack of a better term, coming across as paranoid. We caught up with Negroni to talk about air travel, investigative reporting, government agencies, conspiracy theories, and what it’s like to experience oxygen deprivation. BUDGET TRAVEL: One of the things that makes this such a gripping read is that in addition to giving us the nitty gritty details of the Malaysia Airlines Flight 370 incident, you essentially chronicle a whole evolution of aviation engineering and progress. Was that your intention? CHRISTINE NEGRONI: I thought the book would be focused on Malaysia Airlines Flight 370, but as I wrote it, various avenues would lead to other things. MH370 inspired larger questions, it raised all these conspiracy theories but in some cases, there are legitimate alternative theories. That was eye-opening for me. And I’ve been an aviation safety writer for 20 years. BT: Can you tell me an example of something that was particularly eye-opening that you learned? CN: I think it was about the National Transportation Safety Board, for one. They’re the geeks who show up and solve the mystery when US airlines or aircraft are involved in a disaster. The more I looked at other crashes, the more I realized the NTSB investigators were subject to the same political and economic pressure as other bureaucrats and investigators in other countries. They’re not always the heroes They might misconstrue the facts. That’s surprising and disappointing. It felt like, “Christine, smell the coffee! Why should the NTSB be different from any other agency?” BT: In this day and age, emotions can run pretty high when it comes to air travel. People who’ve never feared flying might be worried about getting on a plane given all the threats. And the stress around all the rigamarole of checking in and going though security doesn’t help. When people hear about a book on airline crashes, it might unnerve them, but “The Crash Detectives” has plenty of positive takeaway. Can you explain the beneficial takeaway of the book? CN: The point is you can learn from each accident and if you don’t learn, why do it? A disaster is really a lesson, we can learn from, that’s why investigate in the first place. What near-accidents show us, like with Sully Sullenberger and the "Miracle on the Hudson flight," is that people can save the day, they can do what machines cannot do. They can do something novel and be innovative. Sully is just one of many who’ve done this sometimes in dramatic ways, and sometimes in subtle ways that even they may not even know. The end of the book is sort of a testament to how, by learning from mistakes, we can excel and not just in aviation, but in the way we perform in all sorts of ways. BT: You say that MH370 and the Miracle on the Hudson flight are yin and yang. What do you mean by that? CN: In MH370 and the “Miracle on Hudson,” the accidents are the opposite, In MH370—if my scenario is correct, and the crew did in fact suffer hypoxia, they were unable to make intelligent decisions--there was no human controlling the plane that could fly. On the other hand, Sully had a plane that couldn't fly, so this was a case of humans stepping in and using their intellect to save the day. BT: One of the interesting things to me about covering aviation versus another hard news realm, like technology or politics or the economy, is that it’s a huge industry, but each and every individual flight can physically affect each person differently, and in some cases that’s what accounts for an accident. You’ve made an effort to do really immersive research. Can you talk about some of your experiences? CN: I went to flight school with Lufthansa pilot cadets. I did flight training at a private air school in New Zealand and I went through flight attendant training with Emirates in Dubai. I did hypoxia training with the pilot cadets from EVA, the airline of Taiwan. We did altitude training at 25,000 feet to familiarize ourselves with the symptoms of hypoxia, oxygen starvation. Hypoxia is sometimes called the "happy death" Because it makes you feel drunk and very happy, silly, stupid, a feeling of well-being. BT: When I board a plane, it feels like I’m putting all my trust in the hands of the captain. A lot of people board an airplane and feel really helpless CN: Every time there's an accident there's so much misinformation on television. It’s a joke, if it were not a disaster, it would be laughable. Pilots and lawyers do a lot of this. Pilots may know how to fly a plane, but they don’t know safety necessarily. It is also important that passengers recognize their own role in safety. There are very common sense things travelers can do. The most super-powered executive will get on a plane and surrenders. Maybe the airlines encourage it will all the rules, but it’s like for most passengers, their free will has been beaten out of them. If something unexpected happens, the dynamic is that everyone gets passive, they’re not sure what to do or how to act. But you’ve got to own your own safety, you’ve got to be able to respond if something happens. Passengers should start by listening to what the flight attendants tell you to do. Count the number of seats there are to the closest exit, and don’t leave things on the floor so that the person next to you will trip if they have to get out in an emergency. BT: Despite all the horrific details of the headline-making disasters, it’s still pretty incredible to think about the many thousands of flights that take off and land around the planet every day. It never ceases to amaze me that we can travel halfway around planet Earth in 14 or 16 hours. CN: The fact is that there's more risk riding a bicycle in New York City than flying to New Zealand. There are 100,000 flights a day worldwide. Flying is amazing. I wish people would look out the window and see how gorgeous it is out there. They can see shooting stars sometimes and the moon. The other day I took picture of a sunset from a plane, it was so beautiful, I almost cried. People climb mountains to see that kind of sunset. But we get on a plane and look at our devices or movies or whatever. I wish everyone would enjoy that special gift that is flying.