London: 5 best April values

By Alex Robinson
October 3, 2012
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Courtesy Alex Robinson

The buds, birds, and butterflies of spring are waking from the harshest winter in a generation. Londoners, too, are waking…etiolated maybe, but all set to enjoy the pleasant April weather. Here are 5 ways to join them in having a good time—without breaking your budget.

Bluebell woods, mid-April–mid-May

England's ancient woodlands are bursting into blue bloom and forest floors are carpeted with hundreds of thousands of wild bluebell flowers. This tiny, brilliant hyacinth is a specialty of southern England. The best place to see the floral display is West Sussex—less than 40 miles south of London. woodlands.co.uk, free.x

The London Marathon, April 25

The starting gun for the key sporting event of the new season fires at 9 a.m. on April 25, when some 40,000 runners will take to the streets of south London and the city center. The event is one of the World Marathon Majors (a series which also includes Boston, Chicago, New York, and Berlin), meaning that the world's best athletes will be competing alongside thousands of amateurs raising money for myriad charities. Many runners will be dressed in bizarre costumes. See the site for the Virgin London Marathon to find a route map and a table with estimated timings for runner arrivals, gauged by ability. virginlondonmarathon.com, free to watch.

St George's Day, April 23–25

While the Irish, Welsh, and Scots joyfully celebrate their national saints's days, the English have traditionally been more rueful. Celebrations in the capital this year buck that trend, with a host of events on and around Trafalgar Square. These include concerts, English food-tasting (avoid the boiled vegetables and opt for the puddings), cabaret, comedy, and street theater—all free. Plus, a St. George's day Rugby match at the national rugby stadium in Twickenham. visitlondon.com, free to watch.

The Enchanted Palace, through June 2012

First-time visitors to London may think that the capital's only royal palace is the Queen's residence. But Buckingham is merely one of several. Kensington Palace has been a royal residence since William of Orange moved here in 1689, and Queen Anne and George II lived and died here. More recently, the palace was the erstwhile home of Diana Princess of Wales, and in honor of her fashion-conscious spirit, the palace is now staging a phantasmagorical exhibition of quirky British clothing. Exhibits include "a dress of tears" by Aminaka Wilmont, based on the ancient tradition of collecting tears at times of mourning; an installation of hats by milliner Stephen Jones, inspired by 18th-century busts of great philosophers and scientists; a Vivienne Westwood dress inspired by the spirited Princess Charlotte (1796–1817); a soundscape of ticking and chiming clocks by Boudicca, accompanied by "dresses the colour of time" circling the room; and an origami dress by William Tempest, which appears to vanish into its surroundings. hrp.org.uk, entrance to the exhibition is included in the admission fee for Kensington Palace, about $18.

La Linea London Latin Music Festival, April 22–30

You'll hear more languages spoken in London than perhaps any other city on Earth. A great way to experience this is to attend the La Linea festival. While you'll find no Luso, Spanish, Italian, or Brazilian acts playing, you'll discover that it's a lovely excuse for watching the city's increasingly numerous Latin-American Spanish-speakers to kick off the winter blues and warm-up with tango, salsa, and meringue. Highlights this year include Kid Creole, the Gotan Project's Victor Villena, and Amparo Sanchez. comono.co.uk/lalinea, free.

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Inspiration

San Francisco: Urban ziplining in the Embarcadero

The word "zipline" usually conjures images of treetops in Costa Rica or summer camps (or humongous cruise ships). But during the recent Vancouver Olympics, one of the most popular events with visitors was the urban zipline hosted by Ziptrek Ecotours. Now the company has set up a temporary 600-foot zipline running across Embarcadero Square. The fun started yesterday and lasts through April 18. Rides are free. The zipline is part of the British Columbia Experience, a tourism effort that includes art installations and interactive video displays. But that doesn't make flying over the Embarcadero&mdashl;with amazing views of the Bay—any less exhilarating. For proof, see one local blogger's trip down the line. Holler at us if you decide to take this thrill ride. I know that's where I'll be this weekend. Justin Herman Plaza, at Market Street and Embarcadero. Through April 18, 10:00 a.m.–7:00 p.m.

Inspiration

San Francisco: The Golden Gate's other side

Too often when people visit the Golden Gate Bridge, they walk as far as the lookout, turn around, and go back. I say: Don't be afraid to keep going! On the other side of the bay, there is a plethora of scenic, worthy attractions near the bridge. Once you get across, you'll be in Golden Gate Park National Recreation Area, at the foot of Mount Tam. You'll spy rocky ocean cliffs and rolling hills, and mind-boggling views. It still impresses me that so close to the bustling city, there is so much open wilderness and dramatic ocean. So whether you walk, drive, or bike across the bridge, stick around. These lesser-known options are worth a visit. By car: Point Bonita Lighthouse Just four miles west of the Golden Gate Bridge, in the national recreation area, is the still-active lighthouse, perched 300 feet above the water, accessed only by suspension bridge. The half-mile walk from the parking lot down to the lighthouse is one of the most sensational coastal hikes in the Bay Area—the rocky cliffs and expanding ocean make you feel like you're at the tip of the world. Note: The lighthouse has limited hours (Sat.-Mon.12:30-3:30 p.m.), so plan ahead. Getting there: Take the Alexander Exit right after the bridge, bear right, and follow Alexander Avenue, and turn left on Bunker Road. By bike: Sausalito Biking across the bridge is one of the most popular ways to enjoy the route. Once you're across, it's an easy downhill ride to Sausalito, a small upscale town where you can poke around the many art galleries and boutiques. Grab a bite at one of the waterfront restaurants, or better yet, save some money and get a sandwich from Venice Gourmet Italian delicatessen (625 Bridgeway, 415/ 332-3544) to eat on one of the many benches overlooking the Bay. Pedal yourself back to San Francisco, or hop the Sausalito ferry, which serves wine and beer and is considered one of the nation's best ferry rides. By foot: The Cavallo Point Day Spa After crossing the 1.7-mile bridge, head down the paved trail that starts at the parking lot of the vista point. The scenic two miles goes past Horseshoe Bay (with more inspiring views of the Golden Gate Bridge) to the Cavallo Point Lodge spa. A day pass ($40) offers access to a heated outdoor meditation pool, a eucalyptus steam room, yoga classes, and a state-of-the-art fitness room. After all that walking, get cozy next to the firepit or just relax in the gardens that have excellent views of the bay. After you're good and relaxed, simply take the spa's complimentary shuttle to the Sausalito Ferry and return home by boat. Monday through Saturday 8:30 a.m.-8 p.m., Sun. 8:30 a.m. - 7 p.m. 601 Murray Circle, Fort Baker, Sausalito, 415/ 339-4767.

Inspiration

Q&A: An around-the-world trip, minus the plane

Writer Seth Stevenson's new book Grounded recounts a journey around the world with just one catch—no plane travel. Stevenson and his girlfriend hopped aboard cargo freighters, ferries, rickshaws, and double-decker buses to get around, starting in D.C. and finally ending up in L.A. after crossing two oceans. We picked his brain for some of his best travel tips. Q: What made you come up with this idea, to travel around the world without getting on a plane? A: I was getting a little restless in my day-to-day life and was craving an adventure and a challenge. I also despise flying—the security lines, the cramped seats, the dry, recycled air. Making it all the way around the globe without the help of airplanes felt like a finite challenge that might be difficult but doable. And now I feel a sense of accomplishment. Q: Of all the transportation modes you used (boat, car, train), did you have a favorite? A: There is nothing like being on a ship in open ocean. There's something incredibly calming in the act of looking at a starry sky or an empty horizon as you hear only waves slapping against the ship's hull. Cargo freighters, in particular, are an amazing experience. You can eat your meals with the crew and hang out with the officers on the navigation bridge. Q: What surprised you most about the trip? A: Once you become accustomed to living out of a backpack, it's amazing how little you miss the possessions you left back home. We'd put some things in storage, and at one point I realized I wouldn't care one bit if all those objects burnt to ash and blew away. Also, before you go: You might want to have a game plan—or at least be emotionally prepared—for dealing with Asian squat toilets. Q: You traveled with your girlfriend. What's some advice for couples who travel together? A: When traveling with someone you love, be positive it's someone you want to spend a lot of time with—like, 54 straight hours in the cabin of a Russian train. Difficult situations will always arise as plans fall apart, or ships are delayed, or visas don't come through. You need to support each other, lift each other's spirits in glum moments, and be willing to compromise. Q: What's a story from this trip that you'll be telling for ages to come? A: Our entire quest to make it around the globe without using airplanes was put in jeopardy in Singapore, when a cargo freighter refused to take us aboard at the last minute. We frantically searched around the Singapore docks—even sneaking into private yacht clubs—desperate to find another ship headed toward Australia. I'd just about given up hope when we spotted a cruise ship in the harbor. I ended up sprinting down its gangplank with no luggage and only the clothes I was wearing, and jumping aboard just seconds before the ship pulled away from the pier. My girlfriend didn't make it aboard the ship in time. Q: What did traveling the "old-fashioned" way teach you about the places you visited? A: Staying on the ground gives you a much better sense of the earth's size. It turns out we live much closer together than we sometimes imagine. For instance, the modern traveler can get overland from London to Beijing in a little more than a week. In the past, Londoners might have thought that China was a different planet. But sitting in a train car and watching Europe melt into Asia, you realize the earth is actually rather small...and thus fragile. And precious.

Inspiration

New York City: 5 best April values

Concerts on a floating barge When it comes to a little night music, a converted coffee barge moored by the Brooklyn Bridge delivers an only-in-New-York experience. Chamber musicians perform for a small audience as the barge sways, not necessarily in time, and the lights of downtown Manhattan and the bridge glow in the background. Bargemusic returns from dry dock on April 16 with a concert devoted to Schubert and Dvorak. Tickets are typically $35 ($30 for seniors, $15 for students), but April 29 brings Jazz Night for $25 ($20 for seniors, $10 for students), and there are free matinees at 1 p.m. on April 24 and May 1. A new fair on the Lower East Side Hester Street Fair opens April 24 on the corner of Hester and Essex Streets (about a hundred years ago, the same site was crowded with pushcarts). Already being dubbed the Brooklyn Flea of Manhattan, the fair has enlisted vendors such as Devotte shoes, Virginia-based Malbon Bros. BBQ, and Luke's Lobster. Check the Hester Street Fair Facebook page for news updates. Browsing, at least, is free; Saturdays and Sundays through December, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., rain or shine. A festival celebrating international writers The PEN World Voices Festival brings together 150 writers from 40 countries for a week of mostly free events, April 26 to May 2. On opening night, Andrea Levy, Mohsin Hamid, Sofi Oksanen, and Salman Rushdie are among the luminaries who'll read from their works in the original languages (with projected translations), $20. Another event with natural appeal is New York Stories, a moderated, more intimate conversation between three novelists and critics, Colm Tóibín, Roxana Robinson, and Darryl Pinckney, April 29, $15. Cherry blossoms in Brooklyn The Brooklyn Botanic Garden's 42 varieties of cherry trees bloom in different stages throughout the viewing season, April 3 to May 2, and the CherryWatch map is tracking their progress. It looks like some of the weeping cherry trees along the pond are already starting to peak. Saturdays are free from 10 a.m. to noon (instead of $8); it's $15 for Sakura Matsuri, the closing weekend's lineup of taiko drumming, ikebana flower arranging, and tea ceremonies. After a few hours at the garden, you might head next door to the Brooklyn Museum, whose current exhibits include "Art and the Afterlife in Ancient Egypt." It's free the first Saturday of each month, otherwise a combo garden and museum ticket is $16. Spas on sale Sightseeing in the city can take its toll. After a day out pounding the pavement, rejuvenate at one of the 80 Manhattan spas participating in Spa Week, April 12 to 18, when treatments cost a flat rate of $50. Options include a 90-minute foot reflexology treatment at Le Peau Day Spa, a 60-minute purify and control facial at Fresh, and a 50-minute deep tissue massage at Graceful Services. Ahh.