This Just In!

February 19, 2007
This month's news from around the globe.

A double-decker train with a 25,000-horsepower engine and unusually large wheels roared through the eastern French countryside on Tuesday, April 3, at 357.2 mph, setting a world rail record. Dubbed V150, the train used for the hyped demonstration is an enhanced version of TGV bullet trains. Service on the new TGV East Line, launching on June 10, will be at the more leisurely pace of 199 mph (raileurope.com).

It's your last chance to visit the original World of Coca-Cola in Atlanta. The museum near Underground Atlanta will close on April 7 and reopen May 24 in a new building next to the Georgia Aquarium (woccatlanta.com, $9)

Been to Alcatraz lately? The popular San Francisco landmark has undergone its first major renovation since opening to the public in 1973. Improvements include digital audio tours (using the device pictured), access to parts of the prison that were previously off-limits, and exhibits of never-before-seen photos (nps.gov/alcatraz) .

Victoria, B.C., gets its first contemporary boutique property when the 80-room Oswego Hotel opens its doors this month. The hotel is offering rates starting at $129 until May 31 (oswegovictoria.com) .

On March 29, Legoland in Carlsbad, Calif., will unveil its latest attraction: A minature replica of the Las Vegas Strip made entirely of Lego. More than 2 million bricks and 16,000 hours were needed to create models that include a 20-foot-tall Stratosphere (legoland.com, $57) .

The mayor of Paris is encouraging residents to open their homes to tourists. A program called Paris Quality Hosts was initiated by the city last year when it became clear that the demand for rooms exceeded availability. A website with B&B listings went online last July but the inventory has grown exponentially (hqp.fr) .

Dickens World, a $121 million indoor theme park, opens this month in the town of Chatham, an hour southeast of London. Guests can walk cobblestoned streets, take in a Victorian burlesque show, and meet characters from Charles Dickens's books, like Scrooge and the Artful Dodger (dickensworld.co.uk, $25).

High-speed Internet access is available free in all Radisson Hotels and Resorts throughout Latin America.

Spirit Airlines now allows only one checked bag at no charge; a second piece of luggage costs $10, and a third costs another $100 .

Silverjet is the latest all-business-class transatlantic carrier, flying between Newark, N.J., and London Luton, and Zoom is a low-fare carrier hoping to begin service in June between New York JFK and London Gatwick .

In more than half of the states in the U.S., you can find out about current traffic info by calling 511 .

Tour specialist Globus is expanding its religion-themed vacations, with new trips such as Lourdes & Shrines of France; Journey Through the Bible, which visits Egypt and Jordan; and Christian England & the World of C.S. Lewis, author of The Chronicles of Narnia (left) .

After a recent episode left American Airlines passengers stuck on a plane in Austin, Tex., for nine hours with clogged toilets and minimal food, a grassroots campaign to pass a Passengers' Bill of Rights is under way; to find out more, go to strandedpassengers.blogspot.com.

ExpressJet, known mostly as a feeder airline for Continental, is launching service to airports that major carriers tend to neglect, like Omaha; Spokane, Wash.; Kansas City, Mo.; and Albuquerque, N.M.

A new feature at Delta.com lets frequent-flier members use an online calendar to find and book reward-program seats.

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Custom-Made in Saigon

At Ben Thanh market in Saigon (even locals don't call it Ho Chi Minh City), saleswomen perch atop piles of fabrics that they sell inexpensively by the meter. Customers are encouraged to take their purchases to nearby tailors, who charge as little as $6 for a pair of pants. As with everything in life, you get what you pay for: hems fall and zippers break. If you want to have clothing custom made in Saigon, these six shops are a better bet. Tricia & VeronaOpened a year ago by sisters Tuyen Tran and Vy Tran (who anglicized their names to Tricia and Verona to convey their Western sense of style), the store's crisp white walls, low lacquer tables, and contemporary light fixtures make it feel more like a boutique than a workshop. Specialties include wool coats (from $80), slacks (from $30), and muslin tops (from $17). There's also a selection of off-the-rack items that can be copied, fitted, or adapted. The average turnaround time is two days, including fittings. 39 Dong Du St., D1, 011-84/8-824-4556. Si HoangWith its tight bodice, side slits, and flowing pants, it's no wonder the flattering ao dai (pronounced "ow yai") is traditional dress for Vietnamese women. Saigon is crowded with shops that sell cheap versions to tourists, but locals go to Si Hoang, where the costume is taken so seriously that historical samples are displayed in glass cases. A plain silk ao dai costs $65 and is made in a day; ones fashioned with heavier fabric (hand-painted silk, beaded velvet) start at $150 and need a week or more. A free fashion show and tea salon--with music and singing--takes place every night but Tuesday at 8 p.m. 36-38 Ly Tu Trong St., D1, 011-84/8-822-3100. Minh KhoaFashion designer Minh Khoa, who's married to one of the country's top models, looks to his dreams for inspiration. "I fantasize about a modern, strong woman, and then I create a spectrum of looks to dress her up," he says. His formal wear--which ranges from sequined ao dai to silk wedding gowns--has been spotted at fancy parties across Asia. The racks hold one of each of his current designs, but he'll also work with customers to create something unique. A silk shift runs $110 and requires two days; elaborate dresses start at $700 and take several weeks. 39 Dong Khoi St., D1, 011-84/8-823-2302. Tailor NhutIgnore the bare walls, tile floors, and open shelves crammed full of books and material: When it comes to getting quality men's apparel made in Saigon, there's nowhere better than Nhut. The suits, shirts, tuxedos, and overcoats are made with the finest cashmere-wool blends and Italian cottons. Suits cost $140 or more (depending on the fabric and finishing details) and require one week; shirts start at $40. 108 Ly Tu Trong St., D1, 011-84/8-824-9437. Kenly SilkSilk shops abound in Vietnam, churning out purses and pajamas for the masses. But Kenly Silk matches great service and workmanship with a dizzying array of styles. The narrow store's first floor displays ready-to-wear items as well as accessories like silk scarves, slippers, and ties. Upstairs are the floor-to-ceiling bolts of fabric--taffetas, chiffons, muslins, raw silks, and linens--necessary to create a custom look. Kenly is particularly popular for hand-embroidered blouses ($29, five days), mandarin-collar tops ($27, one day), and lacy sleepwear ($59 for a kimono and negligee, 7 to 10 days). 132 Le Thanh Ton St., D1, 011-84/8-829-3847. Minh HanhMinh Hanh's embroidery has garnered international recognition. She's now fostering a new generation of talent as head of Saigon's Fashion Design Institute. Her dresses and ao dai, dotted with delicate lotus flowers or lilacs, start at $100; velvet jackets edged with the geometric patterns of Vietnam's ethnic tribes cost upward of $125. Most items take a week to complete. 114B Nguyen Hue St., D1, 011-84/8-823-5367. Getting It Done RightGo in prepared: Clip pictures from magazines of styles you like, or bring along something that fits just right. Virtually anything can be copied. Do a test run: If you have the time, get one item made to check workmanship before putting in an entire order. Know the facts: Talk money, time, and store policies in advance. Many tailors won't charge if you're unsatisfied with the finished product, and most offer shipping if you run out of time or suitcase space. Be realistic: Between finding a design, picking fabrics, and attending fittings, getting clothes custom-made is time-consuming. Order selectively. Speak up: The Vietnamese are tough customers. If you're not happy, say so. Be persistent and firm, but don't get visibly angry--it won't get you anywhere.

Philip Johnson's Glass House

Philip Johnson's Glass House in New Canaan, Conn., has been a pilgrimage site for architects, collectors, and designers for more than 50 years. Now, following the architect's death in 2005 at the age of 98, his home--one of the most iconic private residences in the world--is opening to the public. Johnson himself helped convert the 47-acre estate into a landmark after bequeathing it to the National Trust for Historic Preservation in 1986. He even designed a new front gate and a visitors center. Built in 1949, the minimalist home is constructed of glass and supported by steel beams. There are no interior walls to block the panoramic views. "From one side of the house you see the moon rise, while from the other you see the sun, both at the same time," Johnson once said. There are more than a dozen other structures on the property, among them a subterranean art gallery (housing a series of portraits of Johnson by Andy Warhol) and the Ghost House, made of chain-link fencing (a tribute to fellow architect Frank Gehry, who's known for his use of unorthodox materials). "It's a series of buildings showing the innovation of American architecture," says Christy MacLear, executive director of the estate. The Glass House opens to the public in April with a limited schedule; when regular tours begin on June 23, there will be six 10-person tours each day: five 90-minute visits for $25 and one 2-hour visit for $40. Reserve a spot at philipjohnsonglasshouse.org.

Introducing the Utterly Random Dinner Party

It's 7:30 P.M. on a Saturday, and the front door of a Victorian house in Oakland, Calif., is wide open. The owner of the home directs arrivals through the kitchen--where Louisiana shrimp stock simmers on the stove and delicate tomato-and-white-corn tarts are being assembled on a tiled table--and out to the backyard. Guests are gathering under a canopy of trees, sitting on the colorful cushions that surround the low tables. Since 2004, a "wandering supper club" called The Ghetto Gourmet has been organizing underground dinner parties in the Bay Area. "We want events that are comfortable and geared toward people getting to know each other," says Jeremy Townsend, 30, who cofounded the club with his brother Joe, 25. "It's definitely about more than just the food." All that's required to join is an online reservation made at theghet.com and a donation (which ranges from $30 to $75, depending on the event). In return, members are treated to a four-course meal prepared by an off-duty professional chef, line cook, or caterer (past participants include Serge Santiago, formerly of Mecca in San Francisco, and Damon Bruner, onetime chef at L.A.'s Cinnabar); some kind of unusual entertainment (anything from poetry readings to ancient Hungarian chanting); and the opportunity to meet lots of interesting people. Printed menus, glassware, and candles lend a sophisticated feel to the BYOB parties, which have been held not only in private homes, but at museums, in parking lots, and on organic farms. The Ghetto Gourmet has become so popular that it now hosts an average of 75 events a year across the country, in cities like L.A., New York, Chicago, Miami, and Nashville. On April 1, the supper club embarks on a three-month cross-country tour that will hit Atlanta, New Orleans, Albuquerque, and Washington, D.C., among other cities. As with any get-together, the success of a Ghetto Gourmet event depends on the attendees. The evening in Oakland starts off with birthday wishes and a pregnancy announcement, but most people haven't met before. The garden is soon full of cocktail-party chatter. "It's great," says Ray Aguilera, a writer. "When you go to a restaurant, you can't really talk to people you don't know." A cabaret duo called the Auditorials is part of the evening's entertainment. They heard about Ghetto Gourmet through word of mouth and discovered that, although it's not a lucrative gig, it's a satisfying one: Their payment is a dinner prepared by local chef Peter Jackson that includes Niman Ranch grilled rack of lamb in a smoked-tea barbecue sauce. "We're literally singing for our supper," laughs Mo Mellady. About a third of Ghetto Gourmet's guests return for another dinner. Jen and Peter Bender have attended eight dinners and were recently inspired to host an event in their North Berkeley home. "We actually got to meet people who live nearby," says Jen. While dessert--a glazed limoncello zabaglione and a vanilla-custard cake topped with fresh berries--is being served, guests perform an impromptu concert by clinking forks against wineglasses. A woman in a beaded cardigan provides the percussion by banging on a bucket drum. "I like the combination of great food and an offbeat setting," says Betsy Brown, a marketer who attended the dinner with her mother; it was their first Ghetto Gourmet event. "There's always the potential for a surprise."