Trip Coach: March 11, 2008

Some booking strategiesThe loveliest times to visit the Eternal City are also the busiest and most expensive: mid-March through June (with a spike around Easter), September through October, and December through early January. Hotel prices are generally lower in August, when locals flee the sweltering heat and many restaurants close. Whenever your visit, be warned that those who procrastinate will be punished with less-than-desirable locations and/or price tags. It's wise to consult hotel websites for possible discounts and to contact them directly—some will offer discounts of up to 10 percent for payment in cash. And as few Roman hotels are standard in room size and amenities, you'll want to be in touch to relay any special requests, like baby cots or even a room on a lower floor in hotels with no elevators. For online price comparisons, the Italian booking service venere.com typically has the best deals. One alternative is to rent an apartment, especially if you're traveling with children or in a large group. You'll find some of the best deals at rome-accom.com though many landlords require a substantial deposit and cash payment. You could also consider staying in a religious house. The sites go-to-italy.com and santasusanna.org have extensive lists of obliging current and former monasteries and convents. Consider Budget Travel's picks for affordable, independently owned lodging with some personality, with doubles starting at $92 a night. ALBERGO DEL SOLE AL BISCIONE'Hood Between Campo de' Fiori and the Pantheon, in arguably the best part of old Rome for wandering and people-watching. Locals take their weekend passeggiata through these busy streets.First Impression One of Rome's oldest working hotels—built on the site of the ancient Theater of Pompey and in business since the 15th century—the Albergo exudes a sense of shabby chic that only a place with this much history could pull off.Rooms Wood-beamed ceilings, tall windows, and rough-hewn furnishings are pleasantly reminiscent of an old farmhouse rather than a city-center hotel. Some of the 59 rooms have access to the communal terrace, but you'll pay more.Plus The hotel affords gorgeous views of church domes and rooftops from flower-lined terraces with tables and benches. There's a quaint garden, too.Minus Ignore the gaudy '70s-style neon sign out front and try not to be put off by the gaggles of tourists milling around the lobby. Free WiFi? No. Credit Cards Accepted None. Details via del Biscione 76, 011-39/06-6880-6873, solealbiscione.it. Double with shared bath from €100 ($131), double with a private bath from €120 ($158), double with terrace access from €160 ($210). Lower weekly rates (with the sixth night free) are available in June.Photos 1 of 1 THE BEEHIVE'Hood Termini, the area surrounding Rome's main train station, is dotted with cheap sleeps and bad restaurants, but the wonderfully free-spirited Beehive rises above the fray.First Impression A hip, eco-conscious hotel that reflects the tastes and personal touches of its owners, a couple transplanted from L.A. Rooms Beaded lamps, surfing-inspired prints, and mod furnishings make for six appealing—and spacious—rooms. A mixed-gender dorm room sleeps up to eight. Three self-catering apartments, which share a bathroom, a kitchen, and common areas, are located about 15 minutes off-site in Esquilino, Rome's Chinatown.Plus The pervasive sense of understated style and wellness: a garden with lemon and fig trees; an organic vegetarian café; a rotating display of works by local artists; a yoga space and classes that can be booked at no extra charge.Minus The owners' cat, Ingmar, has free run of the place, so those with feline allergies take note. If you're looking for privacy first and foremost, the communal feeling might be off-putting. Free Wi-Fi? Yes; Computer in common area. Credit Cards Accepted Visa, MC; cash only for apartments. Details via Marghera 8, 011-39/06-4470-4553, the-beehive.com. Private rooms from €70 ($92), dorm beds from €22 ($29) per person, apartment rooms from €60 ($79).Photos 1 of 4 HOTEL ANTICO BORGO DI TRASTEVERE'Hood Trastevere, Rome's bohemian left bank, across the Tiber and adjacent to the Vatican. Residents consider themselves the only true Romans, and there's a colorful mix of medieval architecture, narrow alleys, and billowing laundry.First Impression The hotel is classic Trastevere: quiet cobbled streets outside, exposed-beam ceilings inside—accompanied by the smell from wood-burning pizza ovens and the chime of church bells.Rooms A 13th-century private residence, the 12-room hotel retains much of its original appeal thanks to hand-painted floor tiles, heavy wooden shutters, and idiosyncrasies like nooks and sloped ceilings.Plus Staying in Trastevere has increasingly come to mean losing a night's sleep. But this hotel is safely across viale Trastevere, just far enough into the quiet part of the neighborhood to save guests from sacrificing shut-eye.Minus Rooms are tiny, and the staff can be difficult, especially if you need to make a special request or require help arranging anything extra. Free Wi-Fi? No. Credit Cards Accepted Amex, MC, Visa.Details vicolo del Buco 7, 011-39/06-588-3774, trasteverehouse.it. Double from €95 ($125), including breakfast.Photos 1 of 3 HOTEL COLORS'Hood Vatican/Prati, within church-bell echo of Vatican City. The area's personality is split between services for religious pilgrims and the large villas of affluent Romans. First Impression This cheery hotel is brightened by a playful color scheme and the welcoming demeanor of English-speaking husband-and-wife team Pierluigi and Fulvia.Rooms Bedspreads and walls in the 20 simple guest rooms are splashed with vibrant blues, greens, and reds. A six-bed dorm room can be rented as a whole unit or by the bed, and two self-catering apartments sleep up to six people.Plus Relax on the attractive rooftop terrace with tables, chairs, and potted plants. Guests who want to cook can make use of the kitchen (stock up at the nearby markets); those who don't can help themselves to the kitchen's stash of corn flakes, jam, and coffee.Minus Most guests are young and on a budget, so there's a collegiate vibe, which can sometimes translate into a lack of privacy.Free Wi-Fi? No. Computers with Internet access are available in the lobby for 2 Euros per hour. Credit Cards Accepted None; cash only.Details via Boezio 31, 011-39/06-687-4030, colorshotel.com. Dorm bed from €18 ($23), double with shared bath from €60 ($79), double with private bath from €88 ($116), and double with shower €75 ($99).Photos 1 of 3 HOTEL COPPEDÈ'Hood Parioli, an elegant, off-the-beaten-path residential district, with a sizeable expat community and gay-friendly restaurants. Nearby Piazza Mincio's whimsical 1920s architecture is the work of the hotel's namesake, Gino Coppedè.First Impression It's a commanding art nouveau palazzo with an air of opulence—in a part of the city that tourists rarely see.Rooms The 12 clubby rooms have dark carpets, striped upholstery in rich shades of green and gold, plush furnishings, and sound-proof, wood-paneled walls. If this hotel were in the city center, it would easily command twice its rates.Plus The hotel is close to modern attractions like the Parco della Musica—designed by Renzo Piano and inaugurated in 2002—which hosts a variety of cultural events, and the Foro Italico, Rome's main venue for concerts and soccer games. Each is about a 15-minute bus ride from the hotel.Minus To get into the center of Rome, you'll have to contend with the city's public transportation system or take expensive taxis. Rent a car, though, and the hotel's location proves convenient for getting on and off major highways.Free Wi-Fi? No; Free Internet access is available at a computer in the lobby. Credit Cards Accepted Amex, MC, Visa.Details via Chiana 88, 011-39/06-854-9535, hotelcoppede.net. Double with bath from €100 ($131), including breakfast. HOTEL DAPHNE'Hood Centro Storico, with two locations near Piazza Barberini: The Daphne Veneto is parallel to the glam Via Veneto; the Daphne Trevi is on a quieter street.First Impression A rare blend of personalized service, contemporary flair, and relative affordability. Where the staff at other hotels might circle a location on the map, the Daphne's will actually walk you there.Rooms There are eight rooms in the Veneto and nine in the Trevi. Singles, doubles, triples, and, at the Trevi, two junior suites are available. All are decorated in soothing neutral colors, and many have terraces and garden access. The website has floor plans, so you know precisely what you're booking.Plus Superhuman hospitality. Owners Elyssa (Floridian) and Alessandro (Roman) supply guests with cell phones with preprogrammed numbers—including theirs—in case guests get lost. When you arrive, the couple sits you down with a map for a helpful orientation. Minus If you like to come and go discreetly, forget it. Elyssa and Alessandro will want to know how you spent your day and what you plan for the next. Note that the Trevi location, housed in an 18th-century palazzo, has no elevator. Free Wi-Fi? Yes; There are also computers with free Internet access in sitting rooms; all rooms have high-speed connection jacks. Credit Cards Accepted AmEx, MC, Visa.Details (Veneto) via di San Basilio 55; (Trevi) via degli Avignonesi 20, 011-39/06-8745-0086, daphne-rome.com. Double from €140 ($184), including breakfast, Internet use, and cell phone use (local calls only; others will be charged to your room).Photos 1 of 5 HOTEL MIMOSA'Hood Tucked between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona in the Centro Storico, an area where over-priced tourist joints and authentic trattorie and gelaterie meet.First Impression A hotel at this price in this unbeatable location might set off alarm bells. Instead, there's a sense of relief on finding a centuries-old Roman palazzo whose unassuming second-floor lobby has fresh flowers.Rooms The 14 rooms vary by occupancy (single to quad), size, and ambience. Standard doubles with private baths are the most inspired—decorated in sunflower yellows and terra-cotta reds, with antiques and Persian rugs.Plus Unlike many budget hotels in Rome, the Mimosa doesn't skimp on comforts like fluffy towels and extra pillows, and it accommodates everyone from solo travelers to families. Single rooms tend to have more breathing space than doubles, and the staff can help reconfigure beds or remove furniture to make space for kids.Minus Five rooms lack private bathrooms, and the shared bathrooms can feel neglected because they're only cleaned once a day, on the same rotation as the maid service in the rooms. Free Wi-Fi? No. Credit Cards Accepted Rooms must be paid in cash, although reservations are made online with credit cards—either MC or Visa.Details via di Santa Chiara 61, 011-39/06-6880-1753, hotelmimosa.net. Double without bath from €50 ($66), double with bath from €70 ($92), including breakfast.Photos 1 of 3 HOTEL PANDA'Hood A slice of the Centro Storico overrun with tony boutiques and sidewalk cafés—so close to the Spanish Steps that in springtime you can smell the azaleas.First Impression The narrow halls of this old-fashioned hotel are lined with heavy antique furniture. It's a terrific find, as most area hotels are prohibitively expensive. Rooms Vaulted wood-beam ceilings, stone-tiled floors, and traditional pull shutters give the 30 ochre rooms the feel of a typical Centro Storico apartment. Some have 19th-century frescoes; others have hand-painted tiles in the bathrooms. Plus The staff is more helpful than you'd expect for this price: They'll gladly book restaurants and museums, arrange transportation, and share advice on where to shop and when it's best to visit certain museums and monuments.Minus Late-night noise in this part of Rome can be a nuisance; you'll want to keep windows closed at night. Air conditioning (practically required in summer) will set you back an extra €6 ($9) per night. Free Wi-Fi? Yes.Credit Cards Accepted AmEx, MC, Visa.Details via della Croce 35, 011-39/06-678-0179, hotelpanda.it. Double with shared bath from €98 ($129). HOTEL SMERALDO'Hood Near Campo de' Fiori, a bustling open-air market that heats up at night when locals and tourists crowd bars and restaurants lining the perimeter. It's an easy walk to the Vatican, the Forum, the Spanish Steps, and Trastevere.First Impression The Smeraldo is a standard European budget hotel with marginal service, but the well-appointed rooms and great views set it a cut above the rest.Rooms The 66 rooms are small—showers require acrobatic flexibility—and have burnished chestnut ensembles (headboard, nightstands, and armoire), marble sinks, and stone-tile floors. Some overlook the Campo de' Fiori.Plus You can grab drinks and admire the skyline from the two rooftop terraces.Minus The Smeraldo is popular among often-rowdy European soccer fans. Check the soccer schedule for home games before you book. Free Wi-Fi? No; There is a charge for Wi-Fi and it's not accessible in the guest rooms.Credit Cards Accepted AmEx, MC, Visa. Details vicolo dei Chiodaroli 9, 011-39/06-687-5929, smeraldoroma.com. Double from €115 ($151), breakfast included.

About the PhotographerIan Gittler is an author, photographer, and designer living in New York City. He is currently working on two new long-form books, one about youth culture and another comprised of detailed still lifes of vintage motors. You can catch him online at iangittler.com. Best Road Trip?"Sound Avenue any summer afternoon, heading east on the north fork of Long Island." Favorite Travel-Inspiring Book?"Robert Frank's The Americans" Biggest Travel Gripe?"I wish I spoke a few more languages—or even one more. It would make moving about less cumbersome, more respectful, and way more romantic." _______________________ Photo Captions1 This is Paris, and I was as curious and enthusiastic about being here as anyone. Luckily the jaded French artistes I know were busy rioting at the university, so I was free to wander and snap pictures of random or even insignificant details simply because I thought they might inspire a sweet memory at some point down the line. Photo 2 A typical Paris apartment building with typically romantic details: A spiral staircase is lit by sunlight through diagonal, floor-to-ceiling windows. The building's elevator seems to be an afterthought and barely fits two people—that in itself is kind of romantic, too. Photo 3 The man pictured looks like actor Jean-Paul Belmondo, but it's actually France's current prime minister at 16. The poster was pasted around town, and it reminded me of the French New Wave film movement of the '60s. The headline promises something entirely different and more indicative of our modern preoccupations: "The secrets of youth." Photo 4 A lot has changed about Paris, but for the most part, the skyline hasn't. There are so few tall buildings here that a low-hanging, late afternoon sun bathes Montmartre with brilliant winter light. I was standing on a friend's balcony breathing in the very cold air of a city I hadn't seen in years and years, and this view felt like a memory. Photo 5 Jean Cocteau designed the interior of Cinema Studio 28, a movie theater and café. I guess I really am a tourist, attracted to signage that wouldn't interest me if it were in English. Photo 6 Paris is a city of grand thoroughfares, but they all seem to be connected by narrow, winding passageways and secret shortcuts. Montmartre is a great place to get lost, although preferably on the way back down the hill. Photo 7 No, these French babies were not sharing a smoke, and yes, their mothers were nearby. I have no clue what this wall in place des Abbesses, at the edge of Pigalle, is all about, but I liked its look. Photo 8 Even though it's seconds away from Montmartre, it's seedy around Pigalle, kind of how New York City's Times Square used to be—strip clubs, dance halls, and sex shops with shifty, beckoning doormen. I hear that independent theater groups and trendy dance club impresarios have been staging programs in some of these venues, which may be the first signs of a transformation. Photo 9 Palais Royal is elegant and monumental, but this seemingly incongruous art installation adds an element of fun, and it's a challenge for a group of teenage boys with a soccer ball. Photo 10 I would compare the restaurants dotting the perimeter of Palais Royal to the café at the Stanhope Hotel, across from the Metropolitan Museum in New York. It's beautiful and glittery, a place I'm happy exists and happy to walk past and peer in at, but it's also a place that I'd rarely enter. Photo 11 Another wonderful view of Palais Royal. How I see things, and how I translate my experiences in to a picture, will affect how others envision their vacations, fantasize about a destination, or drift off into a daydream. My advice for amateur photographers is to show up, get out of the way, and let the light do the work. That's what I did here. Photo 12 One of my Parisian friends dismissed his neighbor's paintings with an elitist's snort, so I only had time to snap a couple of frames from outside this open-studio event before being dragged along. I don't like these paintings either, but I like the idea of anyone making a life for himself in the arts who's willing to share his corner of the universe with the rest of the world. Photo 13 "Biquette has disappeared. She is small and gray." I've heard that Avenue Junot, an appealing, winding street at the top of Montmarte, is sprinkled with the homes of a handful of legendary French entertainers. Photo 14 Marché des Batignolles. On a frigid Saturday morning, this organic market was very busy. In Paris you'll find cheeses that are illegal in America. Yummmm. Photo 15 In February 2008, a fire ripped through la maison Deyrolle, a natural-sciences library and repository of curiosities that was established in 1831. Weeks beforehand, I was lucky enough to discover Deyrolle through a friend, whose father first brought her here when she was a child. It was quiet, serious, even eerie. Deyrolle is open while rebuilding, so support this landmark on Rue du Bac. Photo 16 No time for late dinners on this short visit, but one Parisian says that Aux Fins Gourmets, on boulevard St.-Germain, is her favorite restaurant in Paris. I'm guessing this means the food is excellent, the prices are high, the dress is tres chic, and the scene is warm and beautiful. Next time. Photo 17 Miss.Tic is a graffiti artist who has become a familiar name in Paris. This piece was stenciled on the side door of La Hune, the historic St.-Germain-des-Prés art-book store, across the street from Café Flore on rue des Rennes. Photo 18 Serge Gainsbourg's last home, on rue de Verneuil, has become a shrine to the French superstar. In a bizarre coincidence, moments before reaching this landmark, I spotted his daughter, actress Charlotte Gainsbourg, and her quintessentially Parisian family, on a weekend stroll along Rue St.-Germain. She's about as close to royalty as this city gets. Photo 19 As this postcard rack proves, I am definitely not the first photographer to find inspiration on the streets of Paris! Photo 20 This slightly gauche sidewalk table—with its cheery diagram of touristy landmarks my Budget Travel editor requested I not photograph—struck me as simple proof that not all Parisians are above expressing a bit of unabashed pride. Don't believe what you hear; French people don't really look down on us because we're excited about the view from the top of the Eiffel Tower. Photo

Debuting this month, Ideo Eyes Open is a guidebook series that dispenses with the trappings of the standard city guide. Its New York City edition, for instance, doesn't have a subway map or info on the city's most famous museums. Similarly, its London edition points you to the city's hottest cupcake shop rather than Big Ben. What the guidebooks do offer is plenty of captioned photos of spots where you rub shoulders with locals, not tourists. These photos are cross-indexed by theme and activity, somewhat like a children's Choose Your Own Adventure book. You're encouraged to flip back and forth through different pages, discovering boutique shops, foodie havens, and similar venues. The Ideo guidebooks will amuse some travelers but may irritate others. The only way to find out how you'll react is to take a peek for yourself. We've collected a bunch of images and tips from the London edition in this slide show. Images courtesy of Ideo Eyes Open: London by Fred Dust and Ideo (Chronicle Books), recently $16 at Amazon.com.

Anne Hanley: Greetings from Anne Hanley in Rome, where it feels like spring has arrived, though dire warnings of a ten-degree drop in temperatures keep being issued... that's the weather forecast for the many people who have written that they're arriving in the next few days. Now to your questions... _______________________ Whitinsville, Mass.: 4 adults (40 & 50's) are traveling to Italy in April 20-28 through a travel club in Boston called ShowoftheMonth. We are staying in Maori on the Almalfi Coast for the entire 8-day trip. We have 2 free days and would like to see if we can get to Rome for two days. We need some guidance regarding the best way to get from Maori to Rome (using public transportation train or bus) and suggestions of what we can see in the space of two days. Anne Hanley: You'll need a lot of patience (the journey takes a while) and quite a bit of good luck (ie connections actually working) for your Rome trip not to turn into a public transport nightmare. That said, it is feasible and of course, you'll get a little while in Rome which is always a good thing. There are hourly buses from Maiori to Salerno (the local tourist office will have timetables; the trip takes about one hour). From Salerno you can hop on a train to Rome. The official railway site trenitalia.it has a great journey planner, and you can book tickets online. A fast train from Salerno to Rome takes just over two hours. I always recommend to people who have very little time in Rome, and haven't been there before, simply to do the most obvious things, and preferably to do them on foot. Also, it pays to remember that Rome seems hell-bent on throwing complications in the way of anyone who tries to do too much too quickly. So gawk at the Colosseum, amble through the Roman Forum, 'do' the Capitoline Museums (museicapitolini.org) then take your life in your hands crossing piazza Venezia and wend through the medieval streets to the Pantheon and piazza Navona.Take your time, stop at cafés, enjoy people-watching. One attraction that I now tell everyone not to miss is the furiously ugly and out-of-place lift that they have tacked on to the back of the Vittoriano, that huge white monument in piazza Venezia. The view from up the top is indescribably beautiful. _______________________ Des Moines, Iowa: Looking for a good 3-Star or better hotel to stay at in Rome, from May 1st to May 5th. Not sure of the area, but will be flying into Lenardo da Vinci Airport. Would like to have a free shuttle if possible, too. Price from $100-200 per night. My wife, myself and my daughter will be traveling there at that time. Thanks. Anne Hanley: With the exchange rate being what it is, and Rome being expensive for accommodation, you're going to have a hard job getting a three-star in any even remotely central area at that price. Slide down the scale to a B&B and you might have more luck. The Relais Palazzo Taverna (relaispalazzotaverna.com) is in a great location not far from piazza Navona and may fall within your price range. The two-location Daphne Inn (daphne-rome.com) may also meet your needs. In all my years in Rome, I have never heard of a hotel with a free airport shuttle... I don't think such a thing exists. However there's a cheap and efficient train service in from the airport (adr.it). _______________________ Craigville, Ind.: We are 5 couples (teachers), ages 50+, who have vacationed in Mexico for the past few years during our March Spring Break. We need a warm-weather destination because some of our group prefers to stay at the pool all day; others, like to also see some sights. We also like the convenience of an all-inclusive resort. Is there any reasonably priced lodging near Rome where we could stay to accommodate both interests? —Terri Anne Hanley: It can snow in Rome in March! It certainly isn't swimming weather... that comes round about late June. Offhand, I can't think of anywhere with an indoor pool. So unless your pool-loungers are prepared to change their habits and interests, I'd look elsewhere. _______________________ Chicago, Ill.: Hi. We'll be in Rome in late March with a group of 4—2 30-somethings, 1 50-something, and 1 65-year-old. We'd really like to get a glimpse of the Pope, but we've found conflicting and confusing information. We'd like to attend the outdoor mass on Sunday the 30th of March. Are tickets required? If so, how do we get them? Can you tell us anything else about the Sunday masses? How long do they last? When is a good time to get there? Do you recommend any place in particular to try to stand to get a view of the Pope? Thanks in advance for any answers you can provide. Anne Hanley: As you seem to have found out already, getting reliable information about the Vatican is not always easy. Unless the pope is worn out after his Easter exertions, there will, presumably, be the usual mass at 10am and angelus at midday in St Peter's square. These are open to all and there's no need to obtain tickets. Bernini's marvellous colonnade in the square was specially designed so everyone could see everything; the mega-screens placed around the square help too. If the weather doesn't permit an outside event, the mass moves inside the basilica. As far as I know, there are no tickets: it's just a case of elbowing your way in. If you're stuck outside, the mega-screens still show the mass. _______________________ Norman, Okla.: I'm flying into FCO, on 16 MAR 2008 @ 7:30 a.m. I have two options for getting to my hotel Holiday Inn, Rome-Fiano, which is approximately 40 miles from FCO. One is take the 85 Euro shuttle, I've already booked. Or two, take the FR1 train to the Fara-Sabina station, and hope I can find a cab, on Sunday morning, at a Suburban Station (estimated price of 5 mile cab ride is 25 Euro). So should I take the sure thing, or live dangerously, and hope for cab, to save about 43 Euro. Oh yes, I speak Italian. Thanks, Ragan Anne Hanley: The first thing I should do, perhaps, is ask why you're staying at the Holiday Inn in Fiano. Because if you are hoping to use it as a base for exploring Rome, it's time to cancel your booking and make another. Fiano is a bit of a wasteland, well outside the city. There is nothing there except (if I remember correctly) a multiplex, a seedy shopping mall and some bargain furniture warehouses. Oh, and the rather wonderful minor Roman site of Lucus Feroniae, but they're so short-staffed there these days that it rarely opens. If, on the other hand, you're planning to hop in a car and drive north, it's great: the hotel is right by a major motorway junction... The Fiumicino-Fara Sabina train service is fine and cheap, though slow. I very much doubt whether you'll find a taxi at Fiano on a Sunday morning. If I were you I'd contact the hotel about that, and maybe get them to arrange a car. _______________________ Pittsburgh, Pa.: I love the ancient ruins in Rome, but how does a traveler (without a PHD in history) gain access to some of the more fascinating ruins hidden under the city? Thanks! Anne Hanley: The city council has a great new information service which you can call (060608) or consult on line (060608.it). It's in Italian and English. If you click on 'Culture and Leisure' then choose 'Cultural Heritage' > 'Archeological Heritage', you'll find a pretty exhaustive list of ancient monuments—visible from the street; always open to the public; and visitable only with special permission. All the information you need on how to get into them is given here. Similarly, the 'Discover Rome' area of the romaturismo.it site has a page called 'Municipal archeological sites that may be visited on request'. Again, all you need to know is here. _______________________ Miami, Fla.: Nine of us (all adults) are taking a cruise leaving from Civitavechia on Sept 1. What is the best way to go from Rome, where we will be staying the previous two days, probably at a hotel at the airport, to the port? We don't want to spend a lot of money. Thanks a lot, Maria Anne Hanley: Trains from Rome to Civitavecchia are frequent, cheap, and take just over an hour. If you're staying at a hotel near Fiumicino airport, your best bet is to take the stopping train (not the faster Leonardo Express) from Fiumicino station and get out at Ostiense station in Rome: Civitavecchia trains all stop at this minor station. _______________________ Columbia, S.C.: We are a group of 6 adults visiting Rome in June. We have heard many horror stories about pickpockets and drive-by purse snatchers. How big a problem is this, really? What are the best ways to avoid being a target? Anne Hanley: I know far more people who have had bags snatched and pockets picked in London than in Rome! There are nasty people out there, of course, as there are in any big city. They're more frequent in heavily touristed areas. The number 40 and 64 buses (which go between the main train station and the Vatican) are famous pocket-picking places. Don't leave handbags sitting on the ground under outside restaurant tables or expensive camera equipment hanging over the back of your chair, don't flap wads of cash around everywhere, try not to look too lost and helpless... just like anywhere really! One particularly Roman thing is groups of gypsy woman and children who approach tourists flapping bits of cardboard around at waist height. While you try to work out what on earth they're doing, the little ones have ducked underneath and are picking your pockets. But as I said, you'd be part of a very small statistic if anything were to happen to you. _______________________ Sudbury, Canada: We are headed to Rome March 9, 2008. Could you tell me which tour company runs the best Vatican tour with no waiting in lines? Is the official Vatican tour a little drier than those with Angel Tours or Sky Tours? We are traveling with 2 children, ages 10 and 14, and need a "fun" tour guide! Thanks Anne Hanley: Oh dear, this is one of those questions that I really don't know the answer to (so, apologies to you and to the many other people who have asked the same question). Perhaps there isn't an answer. The official Vatican Museum tours are very good value and certainly there's no waiting in line, but they're notoriously difficult to get on to... so difficult, in fact, that I know no one who has ever done it. You send your fax off into the Vatican void and wait and wait and wait for a confermation fax. As I say, I don't know anyone who has ever had one. I think there are two things to remember when seeking a Vatican tour: if it's cheap—by which I mean less than €100 per person—then it's likely to involve long waits; and as the small print doesn't always explain the real situation, you need to be able to put very precise questions to the tour operator. You need, for example, to be aware that St Peter's basilica and the Vatican Museums (which contain the Sistine Chapel) are two different attractions, with a ten minute hike between them. And getting into both of them generally involves daunting waits, unless you are paying your tour operator enough money to cover the Vatican's huge charge for priority entrance to the museums. I have never heard of priority entrance to the basilica. Sorry, I know that's really not all that much use, or very comforting. If you simply can't make your mind up, try going to the museums round about noon on Wednesday when lots of people are at the pope's audience in St Peter's square: the wait tends to be much shorter. _______________________ Ruidoso, N.M.: What is the most central location to stay in Rome? Someplace close to attractions and great restaurants. Anne Hanley: Rome's centro storico is compact and full of everything you want to see (and eat). Anywhere around the Pantheon, piazza Navona, the Spanish Steps, Trastevere... you'll love them all. _______________________ Rocklin, Calif.: Three of us—ages 55, 63 & 65—will travel to Italy in Sept 2009 for three weeks. We have driven all over Western Europe and northern Italy but never in southern Italy. My question is, what is the best way to get around, train or car? We want to see Orvietto, Sienna, Venice, Florence, Cinque Terra, Sicily, Pompeii, & Capri. We will be spending a week in Rome before heading out for the other areas. Any advice is appreciated. Anne Hanley: If you want to see all those places, car, definitely. You could do it by public transport but you'd spend most of your time waiting for trains and buses. _______________________ Cincinnati, Ohio: What areas would have apartments that are safe and reasonable to rent for myself, my 83-year-old mother and my two sisters? Price is more important than swankiness. Thanks. Anne Hanley: Anywhere in the centro storico is perfectly safe, though not always particularly reasonable as far as price goes. Anywhere further afield, and it will make the job of moving your mother around rather more difficult and/or expensive, because the only way in to visit the sights will be by public transport or cab. Romanreference.com is a reputable site with many apartments on its books. _______________________ Niles, Ohio: We are taking a cruise to Rome and various other ports in the Mediterranean and I wonder if it would be better to book our own excursion in Rome instead of the one sponsored by the cruise ship? What is a reputable tour agency? Anne Hanley: Various people have put the same or similar questions, so please don't take offence if I don't answer you all: this is meant for all of you. You know, this will sound ridiculous, but I really know very little about tour operators: all my work is geared towards independent travellers, keen to find their own way around. I recommend that you look at opinions posted on travel websites: they're probably much more reliable than mine! _______________________ Boulder, Colo.: I've heard rumors that starting in 2008 there will be an admission charge for the Roman Forum. If true, what is the cost? Are there any tickets that include multiple sites in Rome (such as the Forum, Colesseum, museums, etc.)? Thank you, Lisa Anne Hanley: Yes! Much to my horror, as of next Saturday they will reintroduce an entrance ticket for the Roman Forum. I loved the way that, for the past ten years, the Forum really belonged to the Romans who would stroll down there of a Sunday afternoon to enjoy the sunshine and stetch their legs. But maintenance costs, and now the Forum will be included in the ticket (€9, or €11 if there's some kind of special show going on) covering the Colosseum and the Palatine. There are various cumulative tickets for sights: the romaturismo.it 'Discovering Rome' pages explain all of these in the introductions under the various headings. Then there's the three-day Roma Pass (romapass.it) which also includes a travel pass. _______________________ Minneapolis, Minn.: We (2 adults) are going to be in Rome between March, 28 and April 5th 2009. Can you give us any advice as to how to beat the notoriously long lines at the Vatican Museum? Anne Hanley: Try Wednesday at noon when thousands of people are otherwise engaged at the papal audience. Or may a huge amount for a tour. Sorry... the real answer is: expect to have to wait! _______________________ Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany (orig. Seattle, Wash.): I travel to Rome frequently. It is my favorite city in Europe. However, now that I've been-there/done-that with regards to most of the tourist attractions, what else do you suggest for a budget traveler on a short 3-4 trip to Rome? I'm looking to delve a little more into the local scene (restaurants, nightlife, shopping, etc.). Also, any budget accommodation recommendations? Either in the city center or a suburb that might be worth checking out? Grazie! Sara Anne Hanley: After 24 years in Rome, I still find myself turning a corner and coming across some tiny chapel or fascinating decorative brickwork or minuscule palazzo that I didn't know was there: Rome's like that. You sound like you need a copy of my guide, quite frankly! There are some marvellous minor museums: the Centrale Montemartini (museicapitolini.org) is one of my favourite. And gardens—a passion of mine—that few people know about: try the monks' vegetable garden attached to the basilica of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme. As for accommodation, Rome is never cheap and at the budget end, you tend to get what you pay for (ie sometimes not much). _______________________ Minnetonka, Minn.: We (a mid-30's couple) are going to be in Rome the first week of April 2008. What are the must-see's for Rome during that time? Anne Hanley: The Spanish Steps are usually covered with huge pots full of azaleas at that time... truly spectacular. This year's Settimana della Cultura (Culture Week), when most museums are free and many little-opened sights are on show, runs from March 25-31: will you be here? This year's Giornate FAI (for information see fondoambiente.it) are on April 5-6. In this annual event, the doors of all kinds of fascinating places are thrown open for visits. There's a list of venues on the FAI site. _______________________ Philadelphia, Pa.: I'm leaving tomorrow for Rome, 50+ woman traveling solo and staying in the Piazza Navona neighborhood. This is my 4th trip to Rome, so I've seen many of the must-see sites in Rome—what are some hidden gems? Also, I've never been to Trastevere and would like to see what is the big attraction. Can you recommend a good walking route for a single woman? Anne Hanley: Well, there are quite a few gems hidden in Trastevere itself: you should try to get to see the breathtaking fresco by Pietro Cavallini in Santa Cecilia in Trastevere, and take the lovely walk up the Gianicolo hill, stopping at San Pietro in Montorio to admire Bramante's perfect little Tempietto in the courtyard next door. Trastevere's main attraction is its charm: this is Rome as you dreamed it would be—narrow twisting alleyways and lots of life. Even the fact that much of the life these days consists of tourists doesn't seem to detract too much from its charm... except very late at night when crowds of rowdy, drunken Anglos rampage through the winebar-packed streets. Apart from the problems caused by our less savoury compatriates, Trastevere is perfectly safe. _______________________ Chicago, Ill.: I'm going to Rome for the 4th time, but this time I'm taking my 92-year-old, very Catholic grandma with me for her first visit. The main purpose of our visit is for her to see the Vatican City and hopefully join the audience on Wednesday morning to see the Pope. Any advice on how to get tickets for the Wednesday morning audience? Do you have any favorite tours of the Vatican city that go more in depth then just St Peter's Basilica and the Sistine Chapel? Thanks! Michelle Anne Hanley: Michelle, audience tickets depend on the weather. Honestly! If the sun is shining, the audience is open to all and held in St Peter's square. If it's cold and wet, it's held in the 8000-seater audience hall. It lasts about 90 minutes. You'll need a ticket, but they're free and not at all difficult to get. Ask at the Vatican tourist office in St Peter's square. One of my friends tells me that she has seen tickets sitting in piles on a shelf right by the entrance to the audience hall, minutes before the event begins. _______________________ Princeton, Calif.: My husband and I will be taking our grandchildren (ages 15 and 11) to Italy in June. We have rented an apartment in the Navonna area, on P.zza Fiammetta. We would like to eat some of our meals in the apartment. Are there good places nearby for buying food? P.zza Fiori would probably meet our needs, but it is a bit far from the apartment. Thank you. Anne Hanley: Campo de' Fiori morning market (Mon-Sat) is your closest open air market, and you shouldn't miss it, because it is extremely picturesque. It is also very over-priced. (NB: I speak as someone who has a wonderful and much cheaper—though much less central—produce market right under her house, so I'm biassed.) You'll find that there are mini-supermarkets all over the place in the centre, though most of them are quite well hidden, so keep your eyes peeled. And smaller, less tourist-packed alleyways are likely to have little delis and fruit and veg shops in them. _______________________ West Chester, Pa.: My husband, daughter (10), and I plan on visiting Rome. My husband and I have been to Rome before but it was quite awhile ago. We are looking for a place to stay in Rome that would be family-friendly and also places to visit that are family-friendly as well. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you. —Cheryl Anne Hanley: The whole of Italy is family-friendly! Of course it helps if your offspring is small and blond (every Italian's favourite type) but kids of any kind are always welcome in hotels and restaurants—even the very smartest ones—and everywhere else. This love/general acceptance of children doesn't, however, translate into lots of child-friendly things to do. Your daughter is perhaps a bit big for the children's museum (mdbr.it) but she might enjoy the computer simulations of ancient rubbish building up and burying Rome in the Crypta Balbi museum, or the inter-active simulations of ancient trade routes in the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme museum. But even without seeking specific child-friendly things, Rome is fun for kids (especially those who have done even a little ancient history) simply because of its right there in-your-face history. The Colosseum really is impressive, even when you're ten! _______________________ Richmond, Va.: Hi. I would love to travel to Rome, but I don't want to stay in the crowded areas all of the time. I'd also like to stay maybe outside of the city, with easy access to enter during the day. Any suggestions? Anne Hanley: Er... don't! When Italy had its economic miracle in the 1970s, much of the countryside around the cities was built over and destroyed by huge new districts of high-rises to house the city-bound workforce. So finding anywhere pleasant within easy-access distance of Rome is not easy. Also, though public transport into and out of town has improved in the last few years, it's still not great. If you want to see Rome, find a quiet place to stay in the city. It sounds counter-intuitive, but sometimes the quietest places are right in the centre, where traffic is restricted and tiny narrow alleyways mean that while one street is packed with visitors, the street one block over is totally silent and empty. Also, if you stay outside the city, then lack of evening transport will mean that you miss one of Rome's most pleasant experiences: the evening stroll through the streets with a quiet nightcap before going back to your hotel. _______________________ Great River, N.Y.: We will be staying at the Hotel Modigliani, via della Purificazione, in Rome this May. This will be our first un-escorted trip. Could you recommend some good local restaurants and walking tours in the area? I guess I should mention that we are 'senior citizens,' so nothing too strenuous! Thank you, Annette Anne Hanley: I've answered the walking tour query (not very successfully) elsewhere. As for eating, the best rule of thumb is to put your head around the door and see how many of the clients are Italian. From via della Purificazione, you'll probably want to amble downhill towards the Tridente and centro storico areas, where the greatest density of restaurants is to be found. Distances are very small, so don't worry too much about over-doing it. _______________________ Danville, Calif.: We're a group of 2 couples all of us at geezer age. We'll be traveling to Rome on March 26 for a way-too-short three-night stay. We'll be doing "Ancient Rome" on one of our full days and the Vatican Museum/St.Peter's on the other with a night walk on one of those evenings. What activities would you suggest for the two partial days? Our hotel is near the Termini Station. Also, do you think the "Roma Pass" is a good value for a short stay? Incidentally, I'd love to visit Rome for a year; my wife says over her dead body. As a husband of some experience, I assume this means, "No." Thank you in advance for your advice. Anne Hanley: I think the Roma Pass is good value, though if you're already booked to see many of the sights on your tours, then perhaps you won't need it. There's also a three-day bus/tram/metro pass which costs €11: you might find this handy because most of the main sights are a short bus ride away from Termini. Which isn't to say there aren't things to see in your area. The Baths of Diocletian and the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme museum are both fascinating; there are also some beautiful little-visited churches with spectacular mosaics around there, such as Santa Prassede and Santa Pudenziana. Without knowing what you'll have already covered on your tours, it's difficult to say what else you should do. But the Trastevere district is very pretty for a stroll. I always recommend just setting off on foot and seeing what you come across: bound to be something great. _______________________ Mercer Island, Wash.: If we are looking to rent an apartment close to the sites, but with more of a neighborhood feel, what three locations, in order of preference, would you recommend? Anne Hanley: Around Campo de' Fiori. Monti. Trastevere. Having said that, most of central Rome has a neighbourhood feel. It's one big village really. _______________________ Seattle, Wash.: Hi Anne! My friend and I are planning to go to Rome for a week this spring, May 24 to June 1st to be exact. We are both females, age 24 and 25, and will not need to include airfare as part of our budget. We would like to explore as much as we can in the short time we are there including food, wine, historical architecture and beaches. We are thinking we should stay in Rome but noticed the prices are higher there than in other cities. Any advice you can offer on where to stay and what tours or cities are worth checking out would be hugely appreciated! Thank you! —2 Chicks on a Budget Anne Hanley: First bit of advice: forget the beaches. Apart from the fact that, unless you're incredibly lucky with the weather, it won't be swimming season at that time, the beaches around Rome are fairly dreadful. If it is hot, and you just can't do without, get on a train and go north, to Santa Marinella for example, for a day trip. Second bit of advice: get a good guidebook (I would recommend mine if I were allowed to plug it here...!) and just walk. Rome is very small, simple, accessible and navigable. You'll have a great time. I don't think Rome is particularly more expensive than other Italian cities, though accommodation here is pretty pricey. Still there's lots of choice so I'm sure you'll find something for your budget. Remember though, that you get what you pay for, especially at the lower end of the scale. _______________________ Madison, Ala.: I have a group of 10 with an average age of 60 chronological years, but much younger in spirit. We will be in Rome on October 25 for 3 days and would like your suggestions for the best use of our time. I know all the best places but would like some lesser known site, local shopping areas, any markets and your thoughts on the best location for a hotel. We also need a reasonable fare from Rome to Cicitavecchia where we will start a cruise. Thanks so much for your help!!! —Pat Anne Hanley: Lots of people on cruises from Civitavecchia! See elsewhere for an answer to that. If you're only here for three days, find a hotel right in the centre, see the big sites, and just soak up Rome. _______________________ LaVista, Nebr.: What are the cheapest ways to get from the port of Civitivecchia into the city near the Coloseum, and 2 days later from here to the airport (FCO)? We will be arriving June 1 early morning and leaving midday on June 3. Anne Hanley: Train from Civitavecchia to Rome (see other replies...) There are two train services from central Rome to Fiumicino airport: the 30-minute Leonardo Express (€13) which leaves every half hour from Termini station and the slower (45-minute) stopping train (€5.50) that leaves every 20 minutes from Ostiense or Trastevere station. _______________________ Chicago, Ill.: I will be on a cruise and stopping close to Rome, where would you suggest for a fabulous lunch for 4 ladies, we're between 60 and 65 and like good food and fun places. Thank you, Ginny Anne Hanley: If 'close to Rome' means Civitavecchia, and you'll be having lunch there, then I'm afraid I can't personally recommend anywhere: the only thing I've ever eaten in Civitavecchia is some rather nasty reheated pizza as I rushed to pick someone up from the Sardinia ferry! Italian restaurant guide books recommend two restaurants near the port: La Bomboniera and La Scaletta, both (logically) seafood places, and both meant to be very good; about €40 per person. _______________________ Ottawa, Kans.: We will be flying back to ORD/MCI on AA111 from FCO on April 8. Four of us will be staying near the Vatican and wonder if a taxi, limo or train is best way to get to airport—cost wise and time wise. Thanks! Anne Hanley: In theory, a taxi for up to four people from anywhere within the city centre to Fiumicino airport costs a flat rate of €40, with no extra charges for luggage etc. The stopping train (see other answers on this topic) would be slightly cheaper, though once you have paid for a taxi to get to the railway station, it would probably cost about the same. Get your hotel to call you a cab. And make sure that the taxi driver doesn't try to ask for more. Though most of Rome's taxi drivers are honest and friendly, many seem to become infuriatingly greedy and slippery where airport trips are involved. _______________________ East Hampton, Conn.: We will be traveling to Rome in late April and arriving on a Sunday morning and leaving the following Sat. morning. What is the best way to get into Rome from the airport? Some recommend the direct train into Termini and some recommend a taxi or a bus. What would you recommend? We keep on hearing about pickpockets at the train stations, truth or urban legends? Anne Hanley: You'll find answers to the first part of this question elsewhere. Yes, there are pickpockets at train stations... in Rome, and in every city all over the world! Just have your wits about you. Tens of thousands of people go through Termini station every day: hardly any have their pockets picked. _______________________ Salem, Ky.: We will arrive Rome on April 23, 2008. Staying near the Coliseum. We want the names of restaurants that the locals eat at that are budget-priced. Also, the must-see or must-try attraction. My husband and I are 51 and love traditional ethnic foods. Thank you, Heidi Anne Hanley: Most of Rome's restaurants have their menus posted outside, so you can see what's on offer and what the prices are before you choose. My recommendation is always that you opt for any restaurant where there are lots of Italians dining... if it's full of tourists only, then there's a reason! Just stroll around your area and see what you find. What you won't find much of are non-Italian restaurants; there are some (mostly not-very-good) Chinese and a few Indians, but on the whole Italians prefer Italian food... and that's probably because it's excellent. Pizzerias are generally cheaper than restaurants. _______________________ Arnold, Md.: Okay, I want—no, need—to know the insider scoop on where to shop for some of those outstanding handbags and shoes that only Italians can make, but at locals-shop-here prices. Can you help me? Grazie, Lisa Anne Hanley: For shoes, try Testaccio market, Monday to Saturday mornings. It's a fantastic fruit and vegetable market, mainly, but one aisle has been taken over by people selling shoes left over from fashion shows, and discontinued lines. There are bags there too. Besides that concentrated little pocket, I don't know where to suggest: shoe and bag shops are all over the place in the centre. But unless you want to pay Gucci prices, keep to quieter, less chichi-looking streets! One shoe shop that I love is Borini in via dei Pettinari. _______________________ Indian Head Park, Ill.: How best to protect yourself from thieves, pickpocketers and dishonest storekeepers? I have been told that Italy is the most thieving country in Europe. Also is it best to make all hotel reservations from USA before arriving in Italy? We will be in Florence and Tuscany 3/24- 4/2/08. I would love to have a nice relaxing vacation, but now I am beginning to worry about safety and honesty. Thank you! Anne Hanley: Dear me, how did Italy get itself this terrible reputation?! It really is a case of a few bad apples. Personally I find Italians wonderful, welcoming, helpful and friendly. If I were to generalise, I'd say that the unwritten national motto was 'why do things by the book if we can get them done more easily by cutting corners?'. And many—especially Romans—have very little time for anyone who shows any sign of not having their wits about them. But I'd be very surprised if you didn't find Italians just great. Remember though, that (rightly) they tend to react to hostility with... hostility. So try to be as friendly as they are, and you'll be fine. _______________________ near Seattle, Wash.: My sister-in-law, my husband, and I are planning a week long trip to Rome next October. Our ages are mid-30s to mid-40s. We all have different ideas for this vacation. One of us likes leisurely breakfasts and shopping and a few sights in the afternoon. One of us likes to get up early for a coffee and pastry type breakfast then see as much of the famous art, architecture, and historical sites as possible, grabbing local casual types of food along the way. One of us likes the sights of Ancient Rome, people watching, and likes to go to bed early. (I won't say which one I am.) My question is, is there a way to plan this so we can enjoy some things together? Not knowing the layout of Rome and distances between sights nor where the best area to stay would be is making it difficult to form a plan. Can this trip be saved? Anne Hanley: Absolutely. The centre of Rome is very small. To give you an idea, the most distant sights you'll probably want to see are, let's say, the Vatican and the Colosseum. And you can walk that comfortably, stopping for coffee and cakes, in three hours. But there's lots in between to stop you so you probably won't. The whole of the centre is packed with restaurants, cafés, sights... everything you need. All very close together. You'll all find the Rome you want, I'm sure. _______________________ Las Vegas, Nev.: Hello. First time traveling overseas, going to Italy March 12th-25th, arriving in Rome. Can you give me some recommendations on some lesser-known venues and sites to see and explore in Rome/Northern Italy that I may not find by just reading travel guides on Italy? And any tips about a first visit overseas, without knowing the language to the place one is visiting, would be beneficial as well. Thank you. Anne Hanley: First of all, if this is your first time in Rome, do the obvious things. All those monuments and museums are famous for very good reasons! The come back again some other time to fine-tune your Roman knowledge. Don't expect to find English speakers everywhere: Italians are notoriously bad at languages, despite the fact that they all study English for many years at school. On the other hand, they'll try their best to understand and be understood... especially if you have a go with the five words of Italian that you learnt from your guide book on the way across the Atlantic. Rome now has a good English-speaking tourist information call centre on 060608. Again, for your northern travels... why go for obscure places when the big names are so good? That said, there are some lovely, lesser-known Umbrian towns, such as Orvieto and Perugia. _______________________ Philadelphia, Pa.: Is it crazy to schedule 2 walking tours in one day? There is so much to see and so little time. I believe that a tour will point out sites that we will probably miss or, miss because our head will be in a guidebook. Thank you, Anna Anne Hanley: No, as I've said elsewhere... central Rome is small. Two walking tours in a day sounds exhausting, but not unfeasible. _______________________ Burtrum, Minn.: Is it always best to take the tours offered when in Rome...if so which ones are the best? Anne Hanley: This very much depends on whether or not you have a pioneering spirit! Personally I always avoid any tours offered and strike out on my own, wherever I am. With a good guidebook and some sense of direction, you should be fine. _______________________ Israel: My husband, my 19-year-old daughter and I will have a 16-hour daytime stopover in Rome on Saturday September 7. Can you outline a city tour that will include some of the "must-see" sites? We will land at Fiumicino airport and probably will have hand luggage with us. Is there any convenient place where we can store it for the day? Thank you, Roberta Anne Hanley: As far as I know, the left luggage office in Terminal C at Fiumicino Airport is still operating (the one at Termini railway station is defunct, I think). So get off the airport train at Termini station, get a bus (the 75 is a good one) from there to the Colosseum, walk past the Colosseum, through the Roman Forum (NB get your ticket—it's the same one for the Colosseum, Forum and Palatine—at the Forum or Palatine, because the queue at the Colosseum is usually huge.) The go up to the Capitoline where you could stop and visit the Capitoline Museums, or simply continue down the other side, cross piazza Venezia and plunge into the centro storico streets which contain the Pantheon and piazza Navona etc. I recommend getting a cab back to the station because you'll be exhausted at this point! _______________________ Chicago, Ill.: I am flying to Rome September 12, 2008 and scheduled to arrive early on September 13, 2008. I plan on staying in Rome for 3 nights. Can you recommend a reasonably priced (preferably much less than $200) Bed and Breakfast in Rome? Thank you, Randi Anne Hanley: Take a look at these sites: b-b.rm.it and bedandbreakfastroma.com. You may find something that's right up your street. _______________________ New York City, N.Y.: Hi, Anne. Love the TimeOut Rome guide. Any suggestions for a Roman piazza for drinking alfresco in May/June without being mobbed by other non-Italians? Thanks much! Anne Hanley: Good to know I have a fan. You know, even in the most completely obvious places (like Campo de' Fiori, for example), you'll find that Romans have a great gift for ignoring all the foreigners and taking over certain venues at certain times. To answer your question from the other direction, I would recommend that you avoid the Campo later on in the evening when rowdy Anglo bar crawlers invade this lovely square, turning it into a squalid and seedy area indeed. Same goes for piazza Trilussa in Trastevere... in fact, for much of Trastevere as the night goes on. One of my favourite places for an early evening drink is Freni e Frizioni on the river bank in Trastevere: pure boho-chic Italian. _______________________ Ashburn, Va.: On the last trip to Rome my daughter and I had difficulty using the pay telephones. Can you recommend simple directions for this task? Anne Hanley: This has to win the prize for the strangest question! I guess I've been here so long, and become so cellphone-dependent (like a true Italian) that I can't even remember how to use a payphone. However, I know that hardly any of them work with coins any more. You have to buy a 'scheda telefonica' (phone debit cards, come in various denominations) from a tobacconist or a newsstand, and you shouldn't have any trouble at all. You certainly won't have any trouble finding an empty payphone... because all the locals will be standing around outside talking on their cells. _______________________ Anne Hanley: Thanks for all these questions, and apologies to those people whom I didn't get around to. For more detailed information on anything to do with Rome, I (naturally) strongly recommend my own guide! Enjoy Rome. And buon viaggio.