Crash the Party: Kentucky Derby

MaryBeth Reardon played the role of big sister when her family took in a Swiss exchange student named Steve Ziegler in the late 1970s. Steve kept in touch with the family over the years and always offered to host anyone coming to his hometown, Zürich. After years of saying they should, MaryBeth and her husband, Dan, of Bellmore, N.Y., decided to take Steve up on his offer. "We're both turning 50 this year, and our 30th wedding anniversary was in June." MaryBeth told Budget Travel. "We want to celebrate 50/30 in a big way." The last of their three daughters would soon be graduating from college, and they'd heard rates to Europe were good, so why not go for it? Initially, the Reardons thought about visiting Steve in the summer of 2003, but airfare alone was well over $1,000 a person. Prices were supposed to be better in winter, and besides, MaryBeth always had pictures in her head of snow-covered Swiss chalets, craggy mountains topped in white, and flurries falling in villages right out of a fairy tale. Switzerland without snow just wouldn't seem right. So winter it would be. In addition to seeing Switzerland with Steve as host, the Reardons were also intrigued with traveling on their own for a week or so. On a map, Italy looked close and especially tempting. "I can't wait for Dan to get to Italy--to eat," said MaryBeth. "I know he's going to flip." A group tour or simple air/hotel package wouldn't work for them. They needed advice on finding airfare, deciding where to go in Italy, and figuring out how to get around. That's where we stepped in. In August, Dan had started searching for airfare for flights leaving in February or March of 2004. At that point, winter prices didn't seem much better than summer--around $800. We told the Reardons to wait, that it was just too early to find good rates. Sure enough, in mid-October, several airlines announced sales to Europe for winter. After shopping around at search engines and various wholesalers, we decided on an American Airlines flight booked directly through the carrier's website, aa.com/. Not only was the price good ($345.50 each, with taxes included), the flight was direct from JFK to Zürich. In order to get winter scenery and winter prices but still have a chance at spring weather, we told them to depart as late in March as possible. (Airlines generally raise fares to Europe starting April 1, and rates are based on when you leave, not when you return.) They decided on a March 31 departure, with a return on April 13--both midweek flights, by the way, which helped ensure the least expensive fare. Now, where to go on their trip-within-the trip? The Reardons weren't exactly sure what they wanted, but preferred casual strolls in pretty, romantic settings to trudging along with a checklist of must-sees. We advised them to stick to northern Italy--heading all the way down to Rome or Florence would eat up too much time. They'd never been to Venice, so that was a definite. We recommended dividing up the journey to Venice with a couple of days on gorgeous Lake Como. Finally, instead of retracing their tracks, they would head north from Venice and spend a night in charming Innsbruck, Austria--which has hosted two Winter Olympics--before looping back to Zürich. Renting a car seemed like a headache to the Reardons, what with figuring out driving directions, mountain roads, insurance, and foreign signs. The train was much more appealing--fewer worries, and ample time to relax as the scenery rolls on by. The cheapest rail pass that would work for their itinerary was over $300; point-to-point tickets were cheaper (we compared options using Rail Europe, raileurope.com/). We told the Reardons to skip the reservations, too--at that time of year, it shouldn't be a problem finding seats, so there was no need to pay $10 or $25 on top of each train ticket. This was a special trip, so the Reardons didn't want to worry about saving a few bucks if it meant staying in dumpy hotels. They didn't require luxury, just good value and location. Paying a bit over $100 a night was fine, as long as the hotel seemed worth it and they had a private bath. Here's the itinerary we created for them. Wednesday, March 31 Fly to Zürich. Thursday, April 1, to Saturday, april 3 Visit Steve, tour Zürich and surroundings. Sunday, April 4 Board a morning train from Zürich to Como. The trip takes three-and-a-half hours, and a second-class seat is $53. Our advice is to consolidate clothing, toiletries, and other necessities into one bag--traveling light is always best--and leave the rest with Steve. At Como, grab the express ferry for a one-hour cruise to Bellagio (bellagiolakecomo.com/, $16). The bus is cheaper but not nearly as pleasant or scenic. Stay two nights at the Suisse, a modest hotel with wood floors and carved furnishings set in a 15th-century palazzo overlooking the lake. Doubles start at $116, with breakfast. Monday, April 5 Sightsee around Bellagio and Lake Como. If the previous day's boat ride didn't suffice, take a ferry to one of the nearby villages for more stunning scenery. For dinner, dig into traditional pasta dishes and fresh lake fish at cozy Ristorante Barchetta, in the historic center. Tuesday, April 6 Ferry back to Como (or take the bus if you want to save a few euros). Train from Como to Venice, four hours, $36. Hop on the No. 82 ferry and get off at the Accademia Bridge. Spend two nights at the Hotel Galleria, a 17th-century palazzo at the foot of the bridge on the Grand Canal, where doubles are $134, with breakfast in your room included. Wednesday, April 7 Enjoy Venice. Overload on art and history at the Accademia Gallery and the Doge's Palace, go window-shopping on Calle Larga XXII Marzo, watch the pigeons have their way with the other tourists in Piazza San Marco, or just get lost wandering among the canals, bridges, palaces, churches, and alleyways. Thursday, April 8 Train from Venice to Innsbruck, five hours, $48. Spend the night among the cobblestones and colors of the Altstadt (Old Town), at the delightful Weisses Rössl, which dates back to 1410 and is an easy 10-minute walk from the train station. Doubles start at $128, with breakfast included. Or, to save a bit, hail a cab or take the D bus out to Pension Paula, a hillside chalet just outside town with doubles from $63, breakfast included. Friday, April 9 Go for a morning stroll along Innsbruck's quaint old-world streets and gaze up at the huge Tyrolean peaks around you. Afternoon train from Innsbruck to Zürich, four hours, $57. Saturday, April 10 to Monday, April 12 More time in Switzerland with Steve. Tuesday, April 13 Fly back to New York. SWITZERLAND, AUSTRIA & ITALY Lodging: " Suisse Piazza Mazzini 23, 011-39/031-950-335, bellagio.co.nz/suisse, $116" Hotel Galleria Campo della Carità 878a, 011-39/041-523-2489, hotelgalleria.it/, $134" Weisses Rössl Kiebachgasse 8, 011-43/512-583057, roessl.at/, $128" Pension Paula Weiherburggasse 15, 011-43/512-292262, pensionpaula.at/, $63Food: Ristorante Barchetta Salita Mella 13, 011-39/031-951-389

Cristina's fingers, dusted with oily crumbs from our tombstone-size bag of pork rinds, slipped on the steering wheel, and we careened through burning debris. "Hold on, and roll up your windows. Now!" commanded my friend and former college roommate as we drove into the yellow smoke that poured across the mountain road. I never would've imagined, sitting in our dorm room 15 years earlier, that this would be our end. To be clear, we were not chasing wildfires in California. We had just crossed from Jalisco, Mexico, into Michoacán at the tail end of the dry season--the time of year when the fields that creep to the road's edge are singed to their roots to make way for new crops, and when driving becomes something of an extreme sport. "This is what happens when you take the back roads," declared Cristina, who is now a chef and restaurant owner in San Miguel de Allende, in the neighboring state of Guanajuato, and knows a thing or two about farming cycles. We made a vow to avoid the roads less traveled. As far as I can tell, Michoacán has never had a problem coaxing anything green and useful from the earth. It's legendary nationwide for its everlasting bumper crop of fruits and vegetables. Cristina spent a good portion of our six-week road trip waxing poetic about Michoacán cuisine--the abundant local produce, of course, but also the nifty molded tamales, nutty cream sauces, spiced stews, and ancient, hearty dishes made with beans and wild game. Only a few hours into my visit to what is arguably Mexico's most alluring western state, I became aware that its reputation is only a slight exaggeration. Uruapan: South-of-the-border Switzerland Until recently, Michoacán was a monolithic challenge to visit because of its lack of roads and poor public transportation. Most important, there was no easy way to connect the state's three main cities: Uruapan, Pátzcuaro, and Morelia. But just a decade ago, government initiatives forged a tire-friendly toll, or cuota, superhighway, connecting them. This smooth, multilane route is dramatically safer than previous roads, but it's not cheap. Tolls run upwards of $7 (so at least there isn't much traffic). After our close call on the back roads, Cristina and I were both more than ready to shell out a wad of pesos. With a heavy dose of adrenaline still rolling through our veins, we snaked through eucalyptus and pine forests, carefully making our way toward Uruapan. The rush subsided with the distraction unfolding before us. We'd entered another world, a deeply green place of conifers and unusual local architecture--cabins called trojes that look as if they'd just been airlifted from the Alps. I half expected to see locals sporting snowflake-pattern sweaters, skis on porch steps, or Swiss Miss herself splitting logs. This scene evaporated when we entered Paracho, a town of indigenous Purépechans, the majority of whom are woodworkers who carve out a living whittling everything from back-scratchers to Mexico's finest guitars. Women with babies strapped to their chests swished by us in intricately embroidered skirts while their braids, woven with colored ribbons long enough to wrap 20 presents, slapped their backs. We felt a shade like intruders, but every local smiled, their dark eyes welcoming us without reservation. Admittedly, our hopes for Uruapan were not high. Cristina and I had heard it was an industrial place you weren't likely to visit unless you needed to negotiate contracts for your avocado import business. However, within minutes of our arrival at Hotel Mansión del Cupatitzio, a gracious hotel on the edge of the city and abutting the staggeringly beautiful Parque Nacional Eduardo Ruíz (often called Barranca del Cupatitzio), we suspected we'd heard nothing but lies told in an attempt to keep this heavenly semitropical corner of the planet a secret. In search of dinner, we put on sneakers for the downhill walk and strolled past stalls selling towering piles of toasted coconut patties called cocadas to the main plaza, Jardín Morelos. We bypassed the town's main tourist attraction, a well-tended crafts exhibit called the Huatápera, and made for the Mercado de Antojitos, a market devoted to the region's best small dishes. Cristina and I pushed our way past racks of cheap clothing, pirated Eminem CDs, and teenagers sucking on bottles of Coca-Cola to the central dining area. Women stirring vats of savory liquid startled us as they yelled like carnival barkers, but we were too hungry to care. Cristina always orders well; she has an uncanny ability to hone in on local specialties, so I followed her lead. We greedily tucked into fried poblano chiles stuffed with local Cotija cheese and a regional soup (sopa Tarasca) thickened with pureed beans and infused with guajillo chiles, cream, and a stomach-soothing herb called epazote, only to follow up the first two courses with a couple of rounds of our requisite tacos al pastor, made with marinated roasted pork. The entire meal, including cold Victoria beer, cost all of $3. I can't help it; I've always been a sucker for Mexican markets. They wallop the senses, fill me with energy, and tempt my inner glutton without fail. Some people consider dining on street food to be risky business in Mexico, but without risk there's little reward. My most memorable, authentic Mexican meals have all been plastic-plate affairs at markets or modest family restaurants. A few rules of thumb diminish the chances of unwanted trips to the bathroom: Sit at the busiest counter, where the food is sure to be freshest; avoid raw fruits and vegetables that may have been sprayed with unpurified water; and when in doubt, a spritz of lime (or a sip of tequila) can go a long way toward warding off pesky bacteria. Uruapanu Lodging Hotel Mansión del Cupatitzio, 011-52/452-523-2100, mexonline.com/mcupatitzio.htm, doubles $85 Posada Morelos Morelos 30, 011-52/452-523-2302, doubles $19 Campamento Regional In the national park, 011-52/452-523-2309, parquenacional.org/, $3.50/night Food Urani Next to Hotel Mansión del Cupatitzio, 011-52/452-524-8698, grilled trout $6 Mercado de Antojitos A half block off the Jardín Morelos, lunch $3 Shopping Town of Paracho 25 miles north of Uruapan, wood carvings Casa Regional del Turista Emilio Carranza 20, 011-52/452-524-0667, crafts Pátzcuaro: Cobbles, crafts, and comfort food "I have ants in my pants," admitted Cristina a few days later--her polite way of saying, "Let's move on." So our lazy stay in Uruapan climaxed with a farewell meal at Urani, the open-air restaurant next to our hotel. Overlooking the government-protected park waters and sweeping vegetation, we enjoyed an appetizer of chunky avocado, then grilled trout, fresh from the mountain brook babbling below. It was perfect nourishment for a final stroll in the park. Along the lushly lined paths, the swan-like orchids craned out from jacaranda trunks; banana trees reached Jurassic heights. Throughout our tour, Cristina and I became avid fans of aguas frescas (flavored "fresh" water). Easily Mexico's favorite drink, the sweet and semisweet concoctions come in exotic, mostly fruity, flavors. One sweltering day in colonial Zacatecas we achieved personal records of 10 each. A healthy percentage of the nation's aguas frescas are sold at open-air stores called La Michoacana. Not an original name, I was told, but not franchises--vendors simply want to capitalize on Michoacán's rep for freshness. Most mornings, I started with a creamy horchata, made with rice milk, honey, and cinnamon, graduating to tamarind or jamaica (hibiscus blossom) agua fresca for afternoon pick-me-ups. We also stumbled across some surprising flavors, such as chía (as in Chia Pet), which has a sprightly, wheatgrassy appeal, or tepache, a fermented, rough-around-the-edges pineapple brew that Cristina insists smells like cat urine. Thankfully, there are dozens of flavors to choose from. Of the 35 towns and cities on our aggressive itinerary, we were probably most excited about visiting colonial Pátzcuaro, the beating heart of the Purépechan homeland. Our exuberance was not unfounded; we hankered for dishes made with the flaky white fish (pescado blanco) from nearby Lake Pátzcuaro, and we breathed easy knowing the charming, historic Hotel Mansión Iturbe had a room with our name on it. Time in Pátzcuaro doesn't pass linearly, as if turning pages of a book. It's a dreamy place, surrounded by mountains and full of craggy cobblestone streets; days can meld together without explanation. At first I thought this was simply the effect of a potent "welcome cocktail" or the weirdly wonderful beer-flavored ice cream I ate upon arrival. Or maybe I'd been hypnotized by the fluttering of winged "butterfly" nets still used by locals for fishing. We checked into the hotel, a 17th-century house overlooking Plaza Vasco de Quiroga, a central square with willowy trees named for the beloved Spanish bishop who championed the rights of the indigenous people. The inn's mother hen, Señora Margarita Arriaga, gave us a tour of the exquisite property, which has been the pride of her family for centuries. She even invited us to sip tequila with her in the drawing room--keeping us up well past our usual bedtimes. On the second day, Cristina and I gave up on browsing Pátzcuaro's copper-crafts shops, and meandered lakeward to the ramshackle fish joints for fried charales, minuscule, smelt-like fish. While we ate, the lake's largest island, Janitzio, beckoned, so we boarded a longboat to its shores. Onboard, a trio of musicians kept time by slapping the sides of their cello and guitars. The foods of Michoacán aren't defined by ingredients that set the chest on fire; instead, regional dishes support richer, mellower flavors that have been enjoyed since ancient times. Señora Arriaga encouraged us to sample classic Michoacán cuisine in the hotel's restaurant, Doña Paca. We settled on churipo, a rich stew made with beef, chicken, and pork that tasted like it was given a kick in the pants by sour cactus fruit and ancho chiles. This traditional dish was served with corundas, steamed corn tamales shaped like pyramids that reminded us, in miniature, of the nearby archaeological sites of Tzintzuntzán and Ihuatzio. Patzcuaro Lodging Hotel Mansión Iturbe Portal Morelos 59, on Plaza Vasco de Quiroga, 011-52/434-342-0368, mexonline.com/iturbe.htm, doubles $90 Posada de la Salud Serrato 9, 011-52/434-342-0058, doubles $25 Posada Mandala Lerín 14, 011-52/434-342-4176, doubles $25-$35 Food Doña Paca Portal Morelos 59, in the Hotel Mansión Iturbe, 011-52/434-342-0122, stew $8 El Primer Piso Plaza Vasco de Quiroga 29, 011-52/434-342-0122, closed Tuesdays, pollo en nogada (chicken in a nut sauce) $9 Misión del Arriero Dr. José María Coss 20, in the Hotel Mesón del Gallo, 011-52/434-342 1474, plátano macho (baked banana) $2 Shopping Casa de los Once Patios Lerín, near El Sagrario, crafts market Town of Santa Clara del Cobre 12 miles south of Pátzcuaro, copper goods Morelia: Michoacán's sugary center After a painless 40-minute drive from Pátzcuaro, we entered Morelia. Perhaps we should have started in the aristocratic state capital, slowly acclimating ourselves to the other parts of Michoacán, places where nature and native influences rule. Instead, Morelia left both of us wanting to turn the car around--at first. Unprepared for its swaggering sophistication, I felt overwhelmed by its majestic plazas, dizzy over the number of city festivals, and annoyed by the swarms of students on mopeds. Once beyond the fray, it was hard not to admire Morelia's architectural treasures or cosmopolitan allure. And within hours, I was more than curious about its famous local candies. Even the blush-hued facades of the city's innumerable colonial buildings look as if they were carefully extracted from giant sugar molds. At the Mercado de Dulces, or sweets market, slyly tucked into the rear section of a former Jesuit convent, Cristina and I scoped out the goods: ates (thick fruit pastes), candied-fruit wedges, pralines, more cocadas, colossal lollipops, and loads of piloncillo, unrefined sugar that comes in flavors such as blackberry, licorice, and pumpkin and is often mixed with cocoa to make atole, a murky beverage. After an hour of grazing, guaranteeing ourselves a sugar rush, we moved on. Like drug addicts looking for the next fix, we zeroed in on another source: an old-fashioned candy store called Dulces Morelianos de la Calle Real, whose towering shelves were packed with over 300 of Mexico's finest cavity-inducing treats. I immediately spotted bags of glorias--chews made from cajeta, or caramelized goat's milk, that Cristina used to bring back to school from visits home. But looking wasn't enough. I made my way to the café, where a waitress in a kitschy colonial bonnet promised me that the iced café con leche, laced with my favorite cajeta syrup, would produce sweet dreams of Michoacán. Sure enough, it did. Lodging La Casa de las Rosas Guillermo Prieto 125, 011-52/443-312-4545, doubles $25 Hotel de la Soledad Ignacio Zaragoza 90, 011-52/443-312-1888, hsoledad.com/, doubles $70-$80 Hotel Virrey de Mendoza Av. Madero Poniente 310, 011-52/443-312-0633, hotelvirrey.com/, doubles $120 Food San Miguelito Av. Camelinas, opposite the Centro de Convenciones, 011-52/443-324-2300, arrachera steak with ancho chile butter $11 Villa Montaña Patzimba 201, Col. Vista Bella, 011-52/443-314-0231, margarita $4 Los Comensales Zaragoza 148, chicken mole lunch, $4 Shopping Mercado de Dulces Valentín Gómez Farías, behind the Palacio Clavijero Dulces Morelianos de la Calle Real Av. Madero Oriente 440

The Central Florida Highland Games is a big annual celebration of Scottish heritage, with piper bands, lots of plaid, and competitions like the caber toss (throwing a telephone pole--like log end over end). And Connie Kimsey of Melbourne, Fla., has attended every year since 1979--except once, when her uncle got married. "I've dragged along most of my family at one time or another," she said. The festival was always fun, but Connie yearned to see the real Scotland. Her grandfather, William Downs, was born there but left as a teenager for the U.S. around 1930. Connecting with her family's homeland was something Connie had dreamed about for decades--especially after her grandfather passed away 12 years ago. Even though Connie knew that the exchange rate was terrible, she and her husband, Grant, were finally going to follow through on their plans to visit. After years of socializing with Scotophiles and hearing endless stories about Edinburgh, Connie wanted to spend most of their 10-day trip in that lovely, mysterious city. She had made hotel reservations but needed help with flights and sightseeing. She also asked us to figure out how to get to Uddingston (pronounced OOH-dingston), her grandfather's hometown, and how to find Bothwell Castle, where his family picnicked. The Kimseys planned on a tour of the Scottish Highlands, too. "We don't want to drive because of the left-hand side of the road issue," said Connie. "We'd rather be able to look around than worry about looking out,' if you know what I mean." The best round-trip fare between Orlando and Scotland in late May or early June was $651 for an Icelandair flight into Glasgow (via Reykjavík). But because they weren't all that interested in Glasgow, we decided it was smarter to pay a bit more ($714) for a British Airways itinerary that connected in London. "We want to experience some of Edinburgh's great pubs and avoid the tourist traps," Connie said. In the New Town section of Edinburgh, where the Kimseys had already found a hotel, we recommended the Cumberland Bar, a traditional pub with real ale pumps, a beer garden, and decent prices, and the historic Café Royal, where it's worth putting up with the crowds to soak up the Victorian atmosphere. As for sightseeing, the Kimseys didn't have anything specific in mind, so we steered them to the Royal Mile, the famous stretch of museums, shops, and historic homes that's bookended by two palaces: Edinburgh Castle and Holyroodhouse. A century ago, the people of Uddingston made a living in the coal mines and steel and cotton factories around Glasgow. "My grandfather said he remembered a lot of fun and carousing in his youth," said Connie. "There was not much adult supervision due to all the men off fighting in World War I and the women working at temporary war-related jobs." When the war ended, Scotland found itself with more men than jobs, prompting Downs and others to leave. These days, Uddingston is a middle-class commuter town (population 5,000) on the ScotRail line between Edinburgh and Glasgow. Getting there would take a little over an hour. Connie wanted to look up her grandfather's old address, so instead of them wandering the streets of Uddingston willy-nilly, we suggested she print out maps and directions from streetmap.co.uk/ or theaa.com/. These sources also led us to discover that the Kimseys could walk a mile from town to where the Downs family had picnicked and played cricket years ago: Bothwell Castle, a massive medieval structure with most of its brick walls still standing. Another site, ancestralscotland.com/, is loaded with info on libraries, historical museums, and archive centers, should Connie want to do more research. The General Register Office in Edinburgh, accessible via the Web, has indexed records of every birth, death, and marriage in Scotland since 1855. Finally, after looking at several tours with Connie, we settled on a two-day trip with Timberbush Tours. For $108 per person, the Kimseys could cruise along in a small bus to must-sees such as Loch Ness and the rugged terrain of Glen Nevis, where scenes from Braveheart and Rob Roy were filmed. Enjoy Scotland, Connie!

Grandma and grandpa haven't seen the kids in months. You haven't seen your siblings in nearly a year. The cousins hardly know each other anymore. It's high time to get the gang together. But grandma doesn't want to cook and clean for everyone. And the kids don't want to spend a week sitting around grandma's condo with not much to do. That's why millions of American families--some 16 million a year, according to the Travel Industry Association--are taking off on vacation with three generations and sometimes four. Families are meeting for a long weekend or a week, gathering at beach and ski resorts Thanksgiving and Christmas, sometimes taking their holiday turkey along. They're crowding cruise ships and Disney World, even heading overseas to rental villas. These post-millennium-style family reunions are a lot different than those afternoon barbeques in a park, so popular a generation ago. In fact, organized reunions are getting so popular that growing numbers of resorts now offer well-priced family reunion packages. When there's a big group and everyone's splitting the tab, reunions can even turn out to be a bargain. One thing's for sure: the memories will be worth every dollar spent and all the (sometimes burdensome) planning--if only for the chance for grandpa to teach his five-year-old grandson to fish, for grandma to tell her granddaughters all about her wedding, for brothers and sisters to trade career tips and to reminisce about childhood vacations. Here are ten reunion ideas that are affordable to almost everyone and will embarrass the purse of no one. A reunion cruise Whatever time of year, cruises are great hits for multigenerational families because there are plenty of activities for all ages--even the preschoolers. Just as important, no one has to worry about organizing a single meal or washing a dish. Cruises are a good vacation value, too, when you figure your bed, your food, and all of your on-board activities are included. Today, there are more cruise reunion options than ever, as most major cruise lines offer well-run children's programs and a greater number of short cruises. Cruise Line Inc., one of the largest cruise discount agencies in the country, handles many such family groups. (Call 800/466-9150 or visit cruiseline.com.) Among the cruise lines themselves, Carnival Cruise Line expects to carry 250,000 kids this year, more than any other cruise line, and half of its fleet offers itineraries of five days or fewer. That means a family can cruise for four days for roughly $450 per person or for a week over Thanksgiving for under $600 a person, including port charges. Third and fourth passengers in a cabin are just over $300 on either trip. For every 15 adults, you get a free berth. (800/CARNIVAL or carnival.com) Disney Cruise Lines has an entire deck devoted to kids, including a nursery for infant cruisers, as well as adult-only areas. Disney offers seven-day trips to the Caribbean as well as three- and four-day options combined with a stay at Disney World. Forty percent of the passengers are multigenerational groups. Both trips are a good deal, starting at (for a small number of cabins, true) $829 per adult, $399 per child; expect to pay at least $200 more for a larger number of cabins. (800/WDW-CRUISE or disneycruise.com). Whether or not you're a family of snow-lovers, mountain resorts are good choices for family gatherings whatever the season. In fall, there are hiking and mountain-bike trails to explore, golf, fishing, gondola rides to mountaintops, and more. In winter, besides skiing, there's snowshoeing, ice-skating, spas, and the chance to read the kids story after story by the fire. There are plenty of organized children's programs to choose from. Examples? At Crested Butte Mountain Resort in Colorado, kids 6 and under ski free and there's a Club Med there for folks who want an all-inclusive vacation. The savings on condo and house rentals are best early and late ski season, even cheaper in fall and spring when the kids can mountain bike and the adults can hike amid the wildflowers. (Crested Butte: 800/544-8448 or crestedbutteresort.com. Snowbird: 800/232-9542 or snowbird.com). For all these western destinations, Rocky Mountain Tours can arrange bargain-priced ski packages including air (800/525-SKIS or sskithewest.com). In the East, Smugglers' Notch Resort in northern Vermont offers AutumnFest packages starting at $780 for a family of four for seven nights, including golf, fishing, and canoeing. Opt for a long-weekend winter package and let the kids try snowboarding while mom and dad work on their skiing and grandma takes an art workshop. Everyone can join the karaoke and bingo parties (800/451-8752 or smuggs.com). Canada cheaply Families will find they save big bucks due to the strength of the U.S. dollar if they head north to the mountains in Canada. Skiing all over Canada is high-quality, with ski seasons in some places stretching into May and just as much off-season fun on golf courses, tennis courts, and mountain trails. Three-day stay-and-ski packages at Whistler Resort in British Columbia start at $190 per person. There are many affordable rental houses to share, too. Packages also can include air (800/WHISTLER or whistler.com. For eastern Canada, Mont Tremblant in Quebec's Laurentian Mountains has five-night, four-day packages starting at $90 per person (tremblant.com). It's been voted the best ski resort in eastern North America by Ski magazine. And here, the kids are guaranteed to love the crepes and maybe pick up a little French on the slopes. House rentals As long as you've got enough bathrooms and plenty of space to spread out, renting a house together can be a great low-cost option for a family reunion vacation. The kids can bunk together. Adults can share the cooking chores and food costs. Plenty of heart-to-heart talks will be had around the table early in the morning over coffee or late in the evening nursing that last glass of wine. Even better, you might be able to afford to go farther from home by sharing quarters-t-- Europe or the Caribbean, for example. The key is to choose your dates wisely so you miss high season. Go to the Caribbean for Thanksgiving, for example; Italy over spring break, or Cape Cod in early June. Call the visitor's center in your favorite resort town and ask for a realtor who handles vacation rentals. The well-known travel club Hideaways International can set your extended family up in vacation digs from Florida to Maine, Colorado to California, often for as little as $800 a week. There are bargains in the Caribbean and Europe too (800/843-4433 or hideaways.com). Finally, find some bargain airfare to the U.S. Virgin Islands and Destination St. John can set you up in your own villa for a week of bliss overlooking the sea starting at $2,000. Many houses have pools and hot tubs (800/562-1901 or destinationstjohn.com). Dude ranches & guest houses If your idea of a dream vacation is horseback riding, hayrides, fishing, horseshoes, and campfires, think about a ranch getaway for your reunion. If you can't swing a week, stay three or four days. At Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in the Ozark Mountains near Jasper, Arkansas, guests are welcome to help with the stock and kids are invited to feed, water, and help groom the animals. Weekly rates start at $850 for adults in spring and fall, $450 for kids age 3-7. There are additional family discounts for more than four people in a cabin (800/480-9635 or gohcr.com). The Mayan Dude Ranch in Bandera, 47 miles north of San Antonio, Texas, has been around nearly 50 years and offers everything from riding and kids' activities to tubing and fishing in the Medina River. All-inclusive rates for adults are $135 per night, $60 for kids (call 830/796-3312 or mayanranch.com). Old West Dude Ranch Vacations, a division of the extensive outdoor travel Web site Gorp.com, books more ranch vacations than any other company and should be able to find one to suit your family's needs and budget (877/440-4677 or gorptravel.com). Orlando bound No destination will make the grandkids happier. And when the seniors have had enough of theme parks, they can snooze by the pool or hit the links. Holiday Inn's new FamilySuites a mile from Walt Disney World has special Grandtravel packages that include two-bedroom themed KidSuites and food discounts for grandparents. There are evening karaoke and bingo parties, a giant pool complex, and VCRs in every suite. Grandparents get extra food discounts (877/387-5437 or hifamilysuites.com). For cheaper accommodations, stay at Disney's All-Star Resorts starting under $100 a night for a room that will sleep four. Family-friendly resorts Many resorts, some all-inclusive, some not, have been hosting multigenerational families for years and go out of their way to welcome big family groups. Oglebay in Wheeling, West Virginia, just 60 miles from Pittsburgh, is a 1,650-acre year-round spot with everything from golf to gardens, shops to a children's zoo, tennis to a giant pool. There are four- and six- bedroom cottages starting at under $900 a week (800/624-6988 or oglebay-resort.com). Montecito-Sequoia Lodge (in California's Sequoia National Forest, near Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Park) is open year-round as both a summer family vacation camp and a winter cross-country ski resort, offering top-quality family adventure. The resort specializes in planning reunion packages for families, with hiking, campfires, kids' activities, and snowshoeing and ice-skating in the winter. Fall getaways start at under $200 a night for a family of four, including two meals and activities. Summer Family Camp is more expensive (800/227-9900 or mslodge.com). Then, too, Holiday Inn SunSpree resorts can be a bargain around the country and in the Caribbean, with many free kids' activities and meals, elaborate pools, mountain biking, or snorkeling; rates, depending on when you book, are just over $110 a night. Some, like the Holiday Inn SunSpree Rose Hall Montego Bay, offer all-inclusive packages. Go to: basshotels.com. Club Med Club Med was among the first to offer all-inclusive family vacations, and they still do a great job at a reasonable price when you figure air is part of the deal. Club Med resorts are popular with multigenerational vacationers for the same reasons that cruise ships are--there's plenty for every age group to do and eat without worrying about paying for every Coke, boogie board, or craft project. There are designated family villages in Florida, Colorado, and the Caribbean. Family groups with 20 adults are eligible for preferred group discounts. Seven-night deals are available from $500 per person There are long-weekend deals too. If you're flexible, you could probably find a package for a little under $1,000 per person, including air, less for kids. (800/CLUB-MED or clubmed.com). Sailing boats and barges Ocean-loving families who don't mind roughing it a bit (sharing tiny bathrooms) can have the trip of a lifetime on a historic Maine windjammer, sailing along the craggy coast, having a lobster-bake on the beach, exploring tide pools and tiny fishing villages, and helping to hoist the sails or navigate. A family of 20 or more could take over an entire boat. Three-day trips, including meals, average $500 (800/807-WIND or sailmainecoast.com). Finally, snare some bargain fares to Europe and you can drive your own barge along canals and rivers in France, England, Holland, Italy, Scotland, Germany, or Ireland. The kids can help ease the canal boat through the locks. The family can explore small riverfront towns and villages, shopping at local markets, picnicking in parks, or bike riding on country roads. Crown Blue Line operates more than 500 boats at more than 20 bases (888/355-9491 or crownblueline.com). Swapping homes A home exchange can enable the family to gather without spending a penny for lodging. The practice of swapping houses for a week is becoming increasingly common around the country and abroad. Often, families can also swap cars and even pets. All types of homes are offered--from modest apartments to large country houses to houseboats. It's an opportunity to see what it would be like to live in another part of the country--or another part of the world. Some exchangers may even arrange for play dates with their kids' friends and dinner parties with neighbors. Some families remain in touch for long afterward. Join a home exchange program like Intervac (800/756-HOME or intervacus.com), which has more international listings than any other home exchange company. Memberships start at about $70 to put your offer on the Web (more expensive memberships include a listing in a book as well). Then it's up to you to contact other members to see if a swap can be arranged for the time of year you hope to travel. Some people get as many as 50 offers; others may contact dozens of families before finding a suitable match.