Kentucky: A Trot in the Country

Fallen Soldiers Sid and Ken were struck by the seemingly never-ending rows of headstones at the San Francisco National Cemetery, on a hill in the Presidio. "Seeing this was important to me," says Ken. "I really wanted to pay my respects to the people who fought for our country." Home Base These brick buildings, built in the 1890s, once served as the barracks for the troops stationed at the Presidio. Both brothers were impressed by how well preserved the units are. O Captain! Sid and Ken explored one of the many historic ships at Fisherman's Wharf. "We went top to bottom on this one and even got to check out the living quarters," says Sid. "I think I've probably seen bigger coffins!" Admiring the Arches Ken works in construction, so he was very interested in studying the structures at Fort Point. "I was blown away by the architectural know-how they had back in the 1800s," he says. Budget Travelers Instead of going on a $35 boat tour, Sid and Ken took a ferry for half the price--and saw many of the same sights (just like the tip on page 14!). The Past, Preserved "I love the fact that Mission Dolores is still there," says Sid. "Too often old buildings are torn down to make room for something new, and part of our past is lost."

Interested in getting coached? E-mail us your questions--seriously, the more the better--to Letters@BudgetTravel.com. Want advice? Log on for our weekly Online Trip Coach chats, Tuesdays at noon (ET), and let our experts answer your questions. Click here to submit questions and browse our archived chat transcripts. Dear Trip Coach... My brother, Ken, and I are in the middle of planning a guys-only weekend in San Francisco. We've been there before and have done most of the touristy stuff. This time we'd like to focus on sites related to the city's history. We're interested in the culinary side of the city, too, so any restaurant recommendations would be appreciated. Sid Leckron, El Cajon, Calif. ASK AWAY "Since we found a great deal at a hotel in Hayward, outside of San Francisco, we'll be traveling into and out of the city each day. Any advice?" There are two main driving routes between Hayward and San Francisco: One takes you across the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge, the other across the San Mateo-Hayward Bridge. Each bridge has a $4 toll for westbound traffic only, so your trip back to Hayward each day will be free. You'll want to build in travel time, because Hayward is a 40-minute drive from San Francisco. Avoid driving during rush hours, when the trip can take more than an hour via either bridge. You can escape traffic and parking altogether by taking the Bay Area Rapid Transit system. There's a BART train from Hayward to the Embarcadero, in downtown San Francisco. The 30-minute trip costs $4.30 each way (bart.gov). "Ken is a military-history buff. Does San Francisco have anything left from the Spanish era or the early-American period?" The two significant remnants of Spanish history in the city (besides many street names) are the Misión San Francisco de Asís, an adobe chapel that's more commonly known as Mission Dolores, and the Presidio of San Francisco, a military post from 1776 to 1994 and now a national park. Mission Dolores was the sixth in a series of nine missions founded by Father Junípero Serra. Constructed in 1791 and strong enough to make it through two major earthquakes, the mission is the oldest intact building in San Francisco. There are no official daily tours, but you can explore the chapel on your own. Check out the redwood ceiling beams, painted with the patterns of basket weavings of the Ohlone Indians, who were native to the area and helped build the chapel. The adjacent cemetery is the final resting place for several of San Francisco's early Mexican administrators, or alcaldes, and many Native Americans (3321 16th St., 415/621-8203, missiondolores.org, $5). After being home to the Ohlone for hundreds of years, the 1,500-acre Presidio, in the city's northwestern corner, served as a military post, first for the Spanish, then the Mexicans, and then the Americans. In 1994, it was designated a national park. Anyone interested in military history should make sure to see the restored 19th-century U.S. Army buildings (including Fort Point, a magnificent Civil War¿era fortress directly beneath the south end of the Golden Gate Bridge), the San Francisco National Cemetery, and Crissy Field, once the center of West Coast military aviation and now a popular recreation area. The park is full of hiking and biking trails, along with several scenic lookouts. Pick up a free map at the main visitors center, in the Presidio Officers' Club (415/561-4323, presidio.gov, free). "Are there old naval ships that we can take tours of?" Do the self-guided audio tour of the USS Pampanito, a World War II submarine turned museum and memorial. You'll see torpedoes, the control room, officers' quarters, and engine rooms, and listen to Navy men's accounts of what life on the sub was like. The museum occasionally runs out of listening devices, so if you have an MP3 player, you might want to download the audio tour from the website before you go (Pier 45, Fisherman's Wharf, 415/775-1943, maritime.org/pamphome, $9). Also at Fisherman's Wharf, on Hyde Street Pier, is the San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park, which has several ships dating back to the late-19th and early-20th centuries (415/447-5000, nps.gov/safr, $5 for access to ships; ticket good for seven days). "Can you recommend any San Francisco sites relating to the gold rush?" The San Francisco City Guides, an all-volunteer group, leads Gold Rush City tours through the Financial District on Sundays, Wednesdays, and Fridays (415/557-4266, sfcityguides.org, free). The guides have lots of stories about the Wild West. For a glimpse of the lavish exuberance of San Francisco's post¿gold rush Gilded Age, visit The Haas-Lilienthal House, in the Pacific Heights neighborhood. The turreted Queen Anne Victorian home, built in 1886 for entrepreneur William Haas, is exquisitely maintained by the San Francisco Architectural Heritage organization. The house is open for guided, one-hour tours during the afternoons on Wednesdays, Saturdays, and Sundays (2007 Franklin St., 415/441-3000, sfheritage.org/house.html, $8). "We're always hearing about the Bay Area's artisanal food. Where can we find some?" The Ferry Building Marketplace, on the Embarcadero at the end of Market Street, showcases northern California food. The market stalls and small restaurants sell fresh fruits and vegetables, cheeses, olive oils, smoked and fresh seafood and meats, and fresh pastas. Some highlights: Far West Fungi for specialty mushrooms, Cowgirl Creamery for the organic cheeses (try the Mount Tam), and Recchiuti Confections for the handmade chocolate truffles. There are also prepared take-out foods--grab lunch and step outside for one of the most amazing views in the U.S. On Tuesdays and Saturdays, a vast and bustling farmers market sets up shop outside (415/693-0996, ferrybuildingmarketplace.com). "We'd like to know of any good--but affordable--restaurants." San Francisco foodies love to claim that their city has more restaurants per capita than any other major U.S. city. (The residents of Boston and Seattle are quick to disagree; the three are neck and neck for the top spot.) There's a great range of restaurants along Polk Street, which traverses the Tenderloin, Nob Hill, and Russian Hill neighborhoods. A few favorites: Hahn's Hibachi, where you can fill up on Korean barbecue (1710 Polk St., 415/776-1095, hahnshibachi.com, entrées from $7); Le Petit Robert, a bistro with simple, tasty French fare (2300 Polk St., 415/922-8100, baybread.com, entrées from $12); and Swan Oyster Depot, a landmark that's been serving crab Louis at its raucous counter since 1912 (1517 Polk St., 415/673-1101, crab Louis $17.50). In North Beach, south of Fisherman's Wharf, go to L'Osteria del Forno for rustic Italian (519 Columbus Ave., 415/982-1124, losteriadelforno.com, entrées from $10, cash only), or try The Stinking Rose if you're in the mood for garlic (325 Columbus Ave., 415/781-7673, thestinkingrose.com, entrées from $15). If you take the Bay Bridge, you'll pass through Oakland, and you'd be crazy not to stop at Uncle Willie's Original Bar-B-Que and Fish. The tiny spot is known for its ribs (614 14th St., 510/465-9200, unclewilliesbarbq.com, ribs $14). Unasked-for Advice Bring along a copy of Historic San Francisco: A Concise History and Guide by Rand Richards. The book traces the city's history from 1542 to the present and includes several walking tours.

Want an Upgrade? Enter here. The upgradees "My mother-in-law turns 75 right before Thanksgiving, so she's hosting a big family reunion on a cruise. We've been pondering what to give her as a fabulous birthday and thank-you present from all of us." Lorraine Fullerton, Salem, Ore. Using our powers for the good of the people The Fullertons had never gone on a family vacation, so when Margie Fullerton won $11,000 on a penny slot machine in Lemoore, Calif., she booked two of her children, their spouses, and four grandchildren on a four-day Carnival cruise from L.A. to Ensenada, Mexico. "Well, my 75th birthday was coming up, and I'd never been on a cruise, so this was an opportunity of a lifetime!" she explains. Her daughter-in-law, Lorraine, asked us if there was anything we could do to make the cruise extra special. Carnival was able to offer an exclusive tour of the ship's bridge and its navigational equipment, a birthday celebration--with a humongous cake--for Margie, cappuccino with Captain Andrea Viacava, and a private towel-folding lesson. (One of the cruise line's signature housekeeping touches is folding towels into animal shapes.) The family kept the secret from Margie until the first night of the cruise; when they told her, she burst into tears of joy. "No one has ever gone to so much trouble for me," she says. Adds Lorraine: "I am really going to score big points on the mom-in-law meter!" Many thanks to... Carnival Cruise Lines for all the help in setting up this Upgrade. Carnival Paradise leaves Los Angeles on three- and four-night Baja Mexico Cruises year-round (888/227-6482, carnival.com).

What's your best travel tip? Send us your tips, and if we publish one, you'll get a one-year subscription (or a renewal) to Budget Travel. You can e-mail them to us at Tips@BudgetTravel.com. Best Tips Ever The cleverest tips we've ever run are in The Smart Traveler's Passport, available at Amazon.com and better bookstores. Send us a tip: If yours is one that we illustrate, we'll send you a free book (along with a year's subscription). 1. Find your other half I often travel alone, and I used to feel left out when I saw two-for-one coupons for museums and other attractions. Now I wait for another solo traveler or an odd-numbered group to arrive at the ticket line, and I offer to split the discount. I've never had to wait more than a couple of minutes, and people always appreciate the chance to save. Kathy Kralik, Fort Smith, Ark. 2. Don't get taken for a ride I work at a hotel in the Chicago suburbs, and I frequently meet travelers who've paid $75 for a cab ride from O'Hare or $120 for a ride from Midway. I can recommend at least three cab companies with flat rates that are half that much. It pays to call your hotel before getting in line at the airport taxi stand. Abi Gerber, Lincolnshire, Ill. 3. Almost in the same boat Anytime you're thinking of taking a boat tour, check to see if there's a ferry that follows a similar route. When we were in Australia, we rode a ferry through Sydney Harbour for just a few dollars instead of paying for an expensive boat tour. The photo ops were pretty much the same. Debbie Stearns, Lebanon, N.H. 4. Hidden treasure Before you turn in a disposable camera to get the film developed, take off the thin cardboard and remove the batteries. They can usually be used again. For example, all Kodak single-use cameras come with either AA or AAA batteries, which work in all kinds of electronic devices. Todd Daniels, Elyria, Ohio 5. Collect those stamps When traveling by regional train in Italy, don't forget to "day stamp" your ticket in one of the small boxes in the station before you board. Otherwise, you could be fined $73. During my recent trip, three American tourists sitting next to me on a train were fined. Umberto Bellini, Danville, Calif. 6. A sorted affair I hate having to rummage through my suitcase to find things, so I group similar items in clear plastic bags--all my socks in one bag, underwear in another, pajamas and whatever I'll need at night in yet another, and so on. It's like a filing system for my suitcase. Diana Graves, Crested Butte, Colo. 7. Help them help you Printing information from English-language websites for your travels is great, but make sure you also have native-language printouts with the names and locations of the places you want to visit. Locals will have an easier time showing you the way. Margaret Lavictoire, Ottawa, Ont. 8. What a bright ID Many pet stores have machines that engrave a small metal disk with your pet's name and your contact info. These disks can also serve as ID tags for luggage. Engrave your name and phone number on a tag, and pin or sew it to the lining inside your luggage. If the airline loses your bag and the outside tag is missing, your contact information will still be available. Kathleen Howe, Carrollton, Tex. 9. Back story My wife has a bad back and needs lumbar support, but many airlines no longer offer pillows. I pack Ziploc double-zip freezer bags (they're stronger than the regular ones) in my carry-on. After we're seated, I blow into the bag, close it partially, then blow in a little more air and close it all the way. It's so comfortable that I now use one for myself. Marv Blackburn, Toledo, Ohio 10. Charge card In some hotels in Europe, once you use the key card to enter your room, you need to slide it into a slot in the wall to power up the room's light switches and electrical outlets. This is a great energy-saving system, but it poses a problem if you're hoping to recharge your camera or laptop while you're out. Always ask for a second key card to power the outlets. Dennis Beck, Richmond Hill, Ont. 11. Agent secret Even though there's a fee, you might be better off booking frequent-flier tickets over the phone than online. When we checked American Airlines' website for a trip from Seattle to Santa Barbara, Calif., all the flights connected in Dallas/Fort Worth. When we called, an agent was able to book us on an Alaska Airlines flight to Los Angeles and an American Eagle flight to Santa Barbara--all with our miles. The $15 per ticket we paid for booking over the phone was worth the time we saved. Doug Rittenhouse, Port Angeles, Wash. 12. Ticket to ride Passengers who take Amtrak into Philadelphia can get a free ride on SEPTA, the regional rail line, into the city center. Just show your same-day Amtrak ticket to a conductor for either the SEPTA train going to Suburban Station, at 16th Street and JFK Boulevard, or the one bound for Market­ East Station, at 12th and Filbert streets. Both of these stations have access to trolleys, subways, and buses. Margaret Engel, Bethesda, Md. 13. Sweet relief I give my toddler a lollipop before takeoff and descent when we fly. The treat keeps her occupied, and all the swallowing tends to help prevent pressure from building up in her ears. Landings can be bumpy, so before you touch down, take the candy away--just to be on the safe side. Joanna Ghosh, Boothwyn, Pa. 14. Book guides For advice on family-friendly activities, go to a children's bookstore or the children's section of a large bookstore. We've found that "book people" generally know their community very well, and the staff--and often other customers--are always happy to help. Bill Rosberg, Cedar Rapids, Iowa 15. Holding your liquor Clerks at duty-free shops might assure you it's OK to bring alcohol purchased there onto the plane. This is generally true, but if you have a connection that requires you to change planes and exit the security area, be aware that you can't bring any liquids over three ounces--including those from duty-free--onto the flight. Bruna Riccobon, Oakmont, Pa. 16. Divide and conquer When my wife and I arrive at an airport, one of us immediately takes the shuttle to the car-rental company while the other picks up our luggage. The person with the bags is usually waiting curbside for the person in the rental car. It saves time and the hassle of schlepping our bags on the shuttle. Carl Russo, Chicago, Ill. 17. Pin case of emergency Safety pins are perfect for keeping a tear from being obvious, holding a broken zipper shut, or fastening a scarf in high wind. I attach them to the underside of suit-jacket lapels, and that way I can access them anytime. (It's a good idea to wait until after you arrive, so you don't get stuck in airport security.) Michael McCaffery, Marshfield, Wis. 18. Beachy clean When we go to the beach, we put a damp washcloth in a Ziploc bag and keep it in our cooler. It's an instant refresher, and it's great for removing sand and saltwater residue. Sharon McCormac, Richmond, Ind. 19. Don't just sit there Before a recent trip, I learned I was going to have a four-hour layover in Detroit around dinnertime. I googled "detroit airport" and found metroairport.com. The site lists the airport's restaurants, shops, and ATMs by terminal, and it notes which concourse they're in. A lot of other airports have similar sites, so it's worth checking online if you have a layover. Heather Doherty, Lake Ariel, Pa. 20. A gift that keeps giving As my nieces and nephews began to discard their plastic, brightly colored music-download gift cards this holiday season, I decided to put a white label with my contact information on the back of each one, punch a hole at the end, and attach it to my luggage as an ID tag. The colorful graphic designs make my suitcase stand out in a sea of look-alike bags. Philip Treu, St. Charles, Mo.